Nik's Poulan Thread

[Modifiedmark]

Another one sold on ebay not too long ago, as nice as that one or better, that I would much rather have had.
Still mad that my funds were so depleted when it sold!!!


Mike

Thats OK Mike, I know where 2 more are.

One might be up for grabs someday as well. It probably wont be availiable for pickup till after the funeral though. :msp_biggrin:

 

[8433jeff]

Thats OK Mike, I know where 2 more are.

One might be up for grabs someday as well. It probably wont be availiable for pickup till after the funeral though. :msp_biggrin:

We all will be sorry you're gone, Mark, but that saw will be a great addition to my collection. LOL
Mike will just call it an "old junk" anyway.

 

[zogger]

still no luck on 3400 oiler

Been working on this second 3400 I have, can't get either oiler to oil. Just put a new quad ring plunger O ring thing in and put it together and tried it, nothing. So that is a new diaphragm and oiler O ring now in that. What I *do* get is oil wants to come out that cotter key vent hole area, when using the manual oiler. Hmm. The oil discharge line appears to be fine, will take a blast of spray through it and it comes right out the oiler hole on the nbody where it should. That was taken off when I was working on the oil pump body. The plunger "feels" like it is pumping oil, but that vent tube area is the only place it comes out.

I am about near convinced now there is a hidden check valve inside those plastic pump assemblies, and mine doesn't work. It's been all completely sprayed out twice now, should be pretty darn clean inside. Anyone here ever cut one open to see what was in there? Or can you think of something I am missing?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Been working on this second 3400 I have, can't get either oiler to oil. Just put a new quad ring plunger O ring thing in and put it together and tried it, nothing. So that is a new diaphragm and oiler O ring now in that. What I *do* get is oil wants to come out that cotter key vent hole area, when using the manual oiler. Hmm. The oil discharge line appears to be fine, will take a blast of spray through it and it comes right out the oiler hole on the nbody where it should. That was taken off when I was working on the oil pump body. The plunger "feels" like it is pumping oil, but that vent tube area is the only place it comes out.

I am about near convinced now there is a hidden check valve inside those plastic pump assemblies, and mine doesn't work. It's been all completely sprayed out twice now, should be pretty darn clean inside. Anyone here ever cut one open to see what was in there? Or can you think of something I am missing?

Your on the right track there are check valves in that pump body. Non replaceable at that as far as I know.

I have only run across one that I can remember that wouldnt work and that I had to replace the whole pump body...

 

[zogger]

Your on the right track there are check valves in that pump body. Non replaceable at that as far as I know.

I have only run across one that I can remember that wouldnt work and that I had to replace the whole pump body...

Hey, thanks for the info. So did you save your bad one, or cut it open to see what was in there? I don't want to dissect mine right now, onliest one I have and the saw starts and runs perfectly. Behind or near what hole is this check valve? I shook it, didn't hear anything rattling around. There is that ball bearing and spring thing I found in the pic I posted previously. Is that just an additional check valve? Or the only one?

I have another one (non runner, do not know what issues it has yet) coming in a swap in two weeks or so, but I would still rather get this one going.

I wonder...hmmm.....should I have filled the thing up with oil first somehow? It was assembled just clean/empty.

My previous one, all I did was assemble it after replacing the diaphragm and it started oiling soon after running and blipping it a little, but that one *also* pumped fine with the manual oiler first. This one I haven't run yet, just tried the manual.

O ring on the oil cap has seen better days but not seeing any leaks either. I might try some soapy spray around it and see if there's an air leak there.

Most likely that oiler assembly and they are NLA near as I can see.

If I find another than works I am going to carefully cut this bad one open perhaps, but I will try a few more things first.

Thanks for the reply, puzzlers can be fun sometimes..other times just annoying...

 

[Chris J.]

Chris, what leads you to belive that it is a 2400? No model # was listed for it so it could be a 2100 just as well as a 2400.

Or am I missing something?

Mark, thanks for the cyber headslap , I posted before I gave it enough thought. I've sent a message through eBay to the seller asking for the Craftsman model #.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Hey, thanks for the info. So did you save your bad one, or cut it open to see what was in there? I don't want to dissect mine right now, onliest one I have and the saw starts and runs perfectly. Behind or near what hole is this check valve? I shook it, didn't hear anything rattling around. There is that ball bearing and spring thing I found in the pic I posted previously. Is that just an additional check valve? Or the only one?

I have another one (non runner, do not know what issues it has yet) coming in a swap in two weeks or so, but I would still rather get this one going.

I wonder...hmmm.....should I have filled the thing up with oil first somehow? It was assembled just clean/empty.

My previous one, all I did was assemble it after replacing the diaphragm and it started oiling soon after running and blipping it a little, but that one *also* pumped fine with the manual oiler first. This one I haven't run yet, just tried the manual.

O ring on the oil cap has seen better days but not seeing any leaks either. I might try some soapy spray around it and see if there's an air leak there.

Most likely that oiler assembly and they are NLA near as I can see.

If I find another than works I am going to carefully cut this bad one open perhaps, but I will try a few more things first.

Thanks for the reply, puzzlers can be fun sometimes..other times just annoying...

Its been a long time since I had one that wouldnt work after doing what you have done that I cannot remember what I did with it. Probably pitched it. Even with new oilers NLA there are still plenty of used ones to choose from I never bothered to open one up.

Without going to look, I'm sure there are 2 checkvalves in that pump assy. Be aware that alot of times if the manual oiler is shot and wont work then the auto oiler will not work either.

Are you sure that the impulse hole in the gasket under the pump and between the case is opened and not plugged? Just asking....

I know there is not alot of surface area on that gasket in one corner and they tend to leak oil there so I always use a dab of silicone in that one spot and it seems to keep em from leaking oil that way.

I really think at this point you need to find another pump housing to try and I bet it fixes your problem.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark, thanks for the cyber headslap , I posted before I gave it enough thought. I've sent a message through eBay to the seller asking for the Craftsman model #.

No problem, just doing my job sir.

 

[zogger]

Its been a long time since I had one that wouldnt work after doing what you have done that I cannot remember what I did with it. Probably pitched it. Even with new oilers NLA there are still plenty of used ones to choose from I never bothered to open one up.

Without going to look, I'm sure there are 2 checkvalves in that pump assy. Be aware that alot of times if the manual oiler is shot and wont work then the auto oiler will not work either.

Are you sure that the impulse hole in the gasket under the pump and between the case is opened and not plugged? Just asking....

I know there is not alot of surface area on that gasket in one corner and they tend to leak oil there so I always use a dab of silicone in that one spot and it seems to keep em from leaking oil that way.

I really think at this point you need to find another pump housing to try and I bet it fixes your problem.

Thanks so much again for the response. I am trying to not flog that mule too much here.

Impulse hole I believe is fine, but, I have to take the assembly off again, so no biggee to recheck.

Yes, I'll try another assembly, try to find one sooner than the swap one coming in. If that one works, I will cut this one open and take pics and post them for future reference on the site..then I'll try to fix it and glue it back together as well. ( I actually like doing such repairs, comes from never having the money for new parts of note, and just..because, Dad got me into fixing parts/making parts rather than buying replacements) That might come in handy for future rebuilders/restorers, with this assembly no longer being built or existing new in stock in any numbers anywhere. The check valves *must* be rather simple in construction, one might think.

I guess I missed it by one year, going back through the threads they were available as late as last year...

Which makes me wonder..what "must have" parts should be acquired now that will disappear soon? New ones I mean, for this and the similar models of that era? These models appear to be the cream of the old school poulan crop, so worth keeping and worth running. Might as well look now than wait until they, too, poof away. These will no doubt be my actual needed work saws now until..forever, so I need to get on the stick and build more/learn more about them. Brand new saws are now just completely out of the question for me, and even late model newer saws are too high for me, now anyway. I look at the classifieds....shoot, good deals, but not for me. So it is these older ones or like a bucksaw

 

[homelitejim]

Just have to break in here to show off a saw I picked up today.

I think it looks good next to my 245A, which also got a new Poulan 28" bar.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Just have to break in here to show off a saw I picked up today.

Good find, that makes a nice pair of work horses you have now...

 

[barneyrb]

Need a little help if anyone can....

Same sad story as everyone has heard here, guy I went to high school with (more years ago than I care to remember) down on his luck. He was given a Craftsman 3.3 (Poulan 3300) to cut and sell some wood with this year. He brings the saw to me, I break it down and find out the main bearings are noisy. I broke it down to replace and now find out the big end bearing is in bad shape also.

Saw had been sitting in a barn for a couple of years. The question is does anyone have a crank to sell so I can get him going. Please let me know.

 

[zogger]

Just have to break in here to show off a saw I picked up today.

I think it looks good next to my 245A, which also got a new Poulan 28" bar.

Nice! Is that a NOS bar, or close to it, or what? I haven't been able to find anything reasonable beyond a 20 for mine. Brand new is not happening for awhile.

 

[sac]

Here is my new Craftsman/Poulan.

Here is my new Craftsman/Poulan. Got a chance to run it on Thanksgiving, and so far I think this is my favorite saw to run, forgot to take the camera with me.

And thanks to Mark for the info on Heating the muffler to mod it.

I took my 5400 out also and noticed that when it was on its side the idle went down like it richened up, from reading on here if the idle goes up it is leaning out and could be crank seals. Could the seals make it idle down also. I'm making an adapter so I can put a vaccum gauge on it.

Thanks Scott

 

[zogger]

Here is my new Craftsman/Poulan. Got a chance to run it on Thanksgiving, and so far I think this is my favorite saw to run, forgot to take the camera with me.

And thanks to Mark for the info on Heating the muffler to mod it.

I took my 5400 out also and noticed that when it was on its side the idle went down like it richened up, from reading on here if the idle goes up it is leaning out and could be crank seals. Could the seals make it idle down also. I'm making an adapter so I can put a vaccum gauge on it.

Thanks Scott

That thing looks new!

 

[jerrycmorrow]

poulan farm pro 375

was able to score a poulan farm pro 375 right before t'giving. the owner died and his wife said it ran well. i didn't have any mix with me and neither did she so i just bought it; for the price i couldn't go wrong. just got to play with it yesterday. it runs well. questions is, what size bar will this saw pull?

 

[67 Mustang]

was able to score a poulan farm pro 375 right before t'giving. the owner died and his wife said it ran well. i didn't have any mix with me and neither did she so i just bought it; for the price i couldn't go wrong. just got to play with it yesterday. it runs well. questions is, what size bar will this saw pull?

Saw is basically a 3700 with a few 4000 amenities like AF cover and sometimes recoil pulley and/or muffler. Generally accepted to run 20" bar on a 3.7 c.i. (61 cc) saw. Mine runs well but doubt you could bury a 24" in hard wood.

 

[stubnail67]

25da vs 200t

ok so awhile ago on this site someone posted a video of these to saws goin at it and it was pretty close. i was trying to find the video without any luck???? anyone here know where abouts it is or who posted it??? thanks!!!

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Saw is basically a 3700 with a few 4000 amenities like AF cover and sometimes recoil pulley and/or muffler. Generally accepted to run 20" bar on a 3.7 c.i. (61 cc) saw. Mine runs well but doubt you could bury a 24" in hard wood.

thank you sir. i've got a 16" on it right now and can see why its would be well liked.

 

[Eccentric]

ok so awhile ago on this site someone posted a video of these to saws goin at it and it was pretty close. i was trying to find the video without any luck???? anyone here know where abouts it is or who posted it??? thanks!!!

Here's one of Brad's threads with a hot S25-CVA video inside. I'll keep looking for the "race" video. I think it's in one of Brad's posts within one of the recent GTG threads...

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/183478.htm