Nik's Poulan Thread

[a. palmer jr.]

Hello I was wondering if you guys could help me out I have a poulan 3600 chainsaw. I am having a problem with the saw bogging down while cutting. I adjusted the carb, put fresh gas and oil in it. I tested it before making cuts and it ran fine. I ran it full throttle with No load and let off and it went to idle no bogging. I made three or four cuts into beechwood about 12" in diameter and 6 " long and by the fourth cut it was bogging down and wouldn't idle. It almost stalled and had trouble cutting the log. The chain is new only had about six cuts on the chain. Any idea on what would cause this, or how to fix it.

It sounds like it's something still in the fuel system. Possibly a bad fuel line or a clogged filter. I'm unsure of the overall condition of your saw, like compression, case leaks, etc. You might start with a new fuel line and filter and maybe cleaning the carb if you haven't already done so. Might also need the inlet lever height adjusted also.

 

[8433jeff]

Hello I was wondering if you guys could help me out I have a poulan 3600 chainsaw. I am having a problem with the saw bogging down while cutting. I adjusted the carb, put fresh gas and oil in it. I tested it before making cuts and it ran fine. I ran it full throttle with No load and let off and it went to idle no bogging. I made three or four cuts into beechwood about 12" in diameter and 6 " long and by the fourth cut it was bogging down and wouldn't idle. It almost stalled and had trouble cutting the log. The chain is new only had about six cuts on the chain. Any idea on what would cause this, or how to fix it.

Mixed fuel? At 50:1, 40:1, something less than 40?

 

[OhioGregg]

Hello I was wondering if you guys could help me out I have a poulan 3600 chainsaw. I am having a problem with the saw bogging down while cutting. I adjusted the carb, put fresh gas and oil in it. I tested it before making cuts and it ran fine. I ran it full throttle with No load and let off and it went to idle no bogging. I made three or four cuts into beechwood about 12" in diameter and 6 " long and by the fourth cut it was bogging down and wouldn't idle. It almost stalled and had trouble cutting the log. The chain is new only had about six cuts on the chain. Any idea on what would cause this, or how to fix it.

Never had my hands on a 3600. But I think they are like a PP365 etc. They have a rubber impulse tube running from the base of the cyl. to the carb. Might want to check that also. Others have given some good advice. If you havn't already changed the fuel filter, I would do that, even if you think the old one looks good. Ask me how I know. Make sure the tank vent is working also.


Gregg,

 

[Wileyone27]

I mixed fuel at 40:1 ratio. As far as carbs settings I don't remember what I set them at lol. I will Check lines and change filter. Should I set the carb back to factory settings and adjust from there? If so what is the factory settings? Thanks for all the advice I will most definitely check everything that everyone advised me to do. Thanks everyone for your help

William

 

[8433jeff]

Run a compression test if you can. Should be at least 120.

 

[Wileyone27]

Run a compression test if you can. Should be at least 120.

Will do thanks Jeff

William

 

[homelitejim]

We are having a mild winter so far, the weather reports a foot of snow on the way in the next week, so I took a break from working on saws to go get that last load of firewood and took some classic iron out for some fun and make a video or two. Saw is a Poulan 4900 and it is running a tad rich.

[video=youtube;3sUoocl1AAU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sUoocl1AAU[/video]

 

[OhioGregg]

We are having a mild winter so far, the weather reports a foot of snow on the way in the next week, so I took a break from working on saws to go get that last load of firewood and took some classic iron out for some fun and make a video or two. Saw is a Poulan 4900 and it is running a tad rich.

We were having a mild winter too... until the past couple days. Been in the teens, snow, wind.
The sound of them older Poulans is almost better than music.


Gregg,

 

[Modifiedmark]

I switched carbs With my 655 and it still idles too high. Did another pressure and vacuum test. Holds pressure but loses vacuum slowly. Pulled flywheel and clutch but couldn't see any leakage from seals. I'm ready stumped right now. I may order new seals anyway. Hope they aren't NL A. This saw has me pulling my hair out.
Bob

Bob thats a classic example of seals leaking under vacuume but not under pressure.

Put some grease around the seals then vac test it again and it will probably hold vac. Put alot of vacuume out it and watch the grease get sucked in around the seals.

Sometimes the pressure test will actually push the seals tight against the crank and seal them up.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Never had my hands on a 3600. But I think they are like a PP365 etc. They have a rubber impulse tube running from the base of the cyl. to the carb. Might want to check that also. Others have given some good advice. If you havn't already changed the fuel filter, I would do that, even if you think the old one looks good. Ask me how I know. Make sure the tank vent is working also.


Gregg,

Yep, bogging is useally a fuel system problem. Good advice on the impulse line.

Thats why I useally do the whole fuel system right off the bat on older saws...

 

[redunshee]

Bob thats a classic example of seals leaking under vacuume but not under pressure.

Put some grease around the seals then vac test it again and it will probably hold vac. Put alot of vacuume out it and watch the grease get sucked in around the seals.

Sometimes the pressure test will actually push the seals tight against the crank and seal them up.

Mark, I used soapy water but didn't see any being sucked in. Ordered new seals anyway, seeing as how I've got it torn down to this extent.
Bob

 

[redunshee]

Will do thanks Jeff

William

Guess no one read my post. Being ignored like in the Pioneer Thread. Start at 1 turn out from lightly seated for both lo and hi. Let saw warm up , then adjust lo needle clockwise until saw starts to stumble. Now adjust counterclockwise and look for the same thing. Halfway between the two extreme settings is what you want. Squeeze throttle quickly if it hesitates adjust lo needle countrerclockwise a bit and try again. HI needle needs to be adjusted , as someone said earlier, so it 4 strokes out of the cut a wot and cleans up while you're cutting. You don't want saw screaming under any circumstance or your too lean.
Bob

 

[drumbum]

330 type 3

Hey guys; I'd like to add a little to the conversation and ask couple of questions. I recently acquired a parts saw (seems to have had a tree dropped on it) off Feebay, a 330 with a gilardoni jug that I figured somebody put on at some point. Once saw was in hand, I saw that it was factory assembled. Unmodded muffler, 2 shoe clutch and the Engine Ident sticker says disp. 60cc with -3 after the serial #. As for my questions, what tool or technique do you guys use to remove the oiler worm gear off the crankshaft? And has anyone removed/replaced the gas tank vent on this series of saws? When you do a complete tear down, you can really appreciate the build quality of this series. Me likey.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark, I used soapy water but didn't see any being sucked in. Ordered new seals anyway, seeing as how I've got it torn down to this extent.
Bob

Bob, soapy waters no good for a vac test. It is good for pressure test though.

If you suspect a seal leaking in a vac test, if you use grease, it will actually seal up the seal enough to start pulling vac on your gauge. Water wont do that and if you pull enough vac you can see the grease actually start to get sucked into the seal.

Hey guys; I'd like to add a little to the conversation and ask couple of questions. I recently acquired a parts saw (seems to have had a tree dropped on it) off Feebay, a 330 with a gilardoni jug that I figured somebody put on at some point. Once saw was in hand, I saw that it was factory assembled. Unmodded muffler, 2 shoe clutch and the Engine Ident sticker says disp. 60cc with -3 after the serial #. As for my questions, what tool or technique do you guys use to remove the oiler worm gear off the crankshaft? And has anyone removed/replaced the gas tank vent on this series of saws? When you do a complete tear down, you can really appreciate the build quality of this series. Me likey.

Thats interesting, I never heard of a PP330 type 3 let alone a 60cc version. I cant locate a IPL for a type 3 either, even the Poulan website only list a type 1 and 2.

The oiler worm gear is supposed to be pulled with a puller, Poulan part# 530031115. Less then $5 and I need to get me one myself just to have. Lets say I think thats the puller part # as I dont have a listing for the 330 itself and I'm assuming it used the same puller as all the others in that series such as the PP365 etc.

I have not had to replace the tank vent on the ones that are in the side of the tank yet. I assume you have to remove the bronze filter/plug above it first. I have done that on some Homelites and I just drilled a hole in the filter and run a screw in it to pull it out. Of course you do the filter no good doing that but a replacement is cheap at only 30 cents.

 

[redunshee]

Hey guys; I'd like to add a little to the conversation and ask couple of questions. I recently acquired a parts saw (seems to have had a tree dropped on it) off Feebay, a 330 with a gilardoni jug that I figured somebody put on at some point. Once saw was in hand, I saw that it was factory assembled. Unmodded muffler, 2 shoe clutch and the Engine Ident sticker says disp. 60cc with -3 after the serial #. As for my questions, what tool or technique do you guys use to remove the oiler worm gear off the crankshaft? And has anyone removed/replaced the gas tank vent on this series of saws? When you do a complete tear down, you can really appreciate the build quality of this series. Me likey.

Just did one on my PP405. I sprayed PB Blaster and then using two screwdrivers carefully pried it up and off. Be careful to get under the bottom of the worm gear and pry up applying even force on both sides. Are you checking or replacing the seals? That would be only reason to remove it other than it being buggered. I found the larger the screwdriver the easier.
Bob

 

[redunshee]

Bob, soapy waters no good for a vac test. It is good for pressure test though.

If you suspect a seal leaking in a vac test, if you use grease, it will actually seal up the seal enough to start pulling vac on your gauge. Water wont do that and if you pull enough vac you can see the grease actually start to get sucked into the seal.




Thats interesting, I never heard of a PP330 type 3 let alone a 60cc version. I cant locate a IPL for a type 3 either, even the Poulan website only list a type 1 and 2.

The oiler worm gear is supposed to be pulled with a puller, Poulan part# 530031115. Less then $5 and I need to get me one myself just to have. Lets say I think thats the puller part # as I dont have a listing for the 330 itself and I'm assuming it used the same puller as all the others in that series such as the PP365 etc.

I have not had to replace the tank vent on the ones that are in the side of the tank yet. I assume you have to remove the bronze filter/plug above it first. I have done that on some Homelites and I just drilled a hole in the filter and run a screw in it to pull it out. Of course you do the filter no good doing that but a replacement is cheap at only 30 cents.

Mark, I tried the grease trick and could see little holes apperaring around the rubber seal. Vacuum dropped slowly and I hope this is the cause of the high idle. Will find out when I replace seals. Wonder what the gear puller(530031115) looks like?
Bob

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark, I tried the grease trick and could see little holes apperaring around the rubber seal. Vacuum dropped slowly and I hope this is the cause of the high idle. Will find out when I replace seals. Wonder what the gear puller(530031115) looks like?
Bob

Yep if the grease is sucking in then the seal is not sealing correctly.

As for the worm gear puller, I forgot that I think I did already get one and its in my special box.

Its a steel tube that screws onto the worm gear and it has a bolt threaded in the other end that pushes against the crank to pull the grear off without damaging it.

I found this link that has a updated Poulan tool list and it shows the 330 dose use the same puller.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~gbishop/Public/CHAINSAW TOOLS.pdf Open this PDF and you can then save it to your computer.

 

[drumbum]

Thanks Mark, that chart is a great addition.

I've only seen pictures of one super 380 and that's OhioGregs with the yellow tank and handle. Has anyone seen a 380 with a black tank/handle? IPL's list same part# for both 330/380. If ya'll want to see the saw I bought, search Ebay for item # 120828438475. Ident. sticker was right under throttle lock on gas tank.

P.s. Don't slam me for the price I paid, was figuring the p/c had been replaced instead of original, and I wanted a cheap jug to port/experiment on. Clutch side case was busted too.

 

[rms61moparman]

Mark, I tried the grease trick and could see little holes apperaring around the rubber seal. Vacuum dropped slowly and I hope this is the cause of the high idle. Will find out when I replace seals. Wonder what the gear puller(530031115) looks like?
Bob

Probably like this;

OEM poulan wildthing woodshark chainsaw oil pump worm gear puller tool | eBay

And yes, I bought one before I posted this bloody meat in these shark infested waters!!!LOL


Mike

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thanks Mark, that chart is a great addition.

I've only seen pictures of one super 380 and that's OhioGregs with the yellow tank and handle. Has anyone seen a 380 with a black tank/handle? IPL's list same part# for both 330/380. If ya'll want to see the saw I bought, search Ebay for item # 120828438475. Ident. sticker was right under throttle lock on gas tank.

P.s. Don't slam me for the price I paid, was figuring the p/c had been replaced instead of original, and I wanted a cheap jug to port/experiment on. Clutch side case was busted too.

P/C should be worth that, plus you got other parts as well.

Measure the bore on that thing when you get it apart, it should be 46mm for a 330