It dont need to be much of a puller. Its main job is to make sure that the wire type gear is spaced apart right when installed. I need to get off my duff and get one as well.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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It dont need to be much of a puller. Its main job is to make sure that the wire type gear is spaced apart right when installed. I need to get off my duff and get one as well.
Bought this saw hoping at worst I could use the right half of the crankcase to fix a PP180 that was cracked at the bar stud and leaking bar oil. Previous owner had already tried to fix the 180 with JB weld.
After a little cleaning this is what I got.
New fuel line and it took off and runs great! Has chrome cylinder with two compression rings. P&C look perfect. Paid less than $20 for it.
I was wondering what you used to clean the saw with, I have some partner 5000 and 500 that need a good cleaning like yours and have been wondering what to use ,Great job by the way.
These older saws sure don't need much of a muffler mod unless you like wearing a hearing aid!
Been using Simple Green for quite some time, Jeff. Thanks for the comments.
I"ll tell you what ,you've done a hell of a job with your saws they look new.
Steve, you still need a PP180 case? I got a scored 180 in here a little bit ago, just missing the right side cover. Let me know if you need it.
Sure do, Mark! Email me what you need + shipping. One weakness of this style of saw (I've seen more than one like this) is a crack in the case at the bar mount. Might be because the bar and side cover aren't lined up properly when tightened down. Leaks bar oil through the crack. Got a bunch of green ones but the yellow ones are harder to find.
I used to use Simple Green but someone put me onto this Purple Power, same results for about half the price. This isn't a commercial, just relating info to friends.
StinkyBunny
ArboristSite Operative
Yea, my new little finger biter is quite LOUD!! This is what $30 gets you here in The People's Republic of Maryland.
Yea, my new little finger biter is quite LOUD!! This is what $30 gets you here in The People's Republic of Maryland.
If you like those saws don't tell anybody about it. It's a well-kept secret that these are great saws. I've had one just like that only not quite as pretty on ebay for several weeks and nobody will give even $25 for it. I think it's great, we can buy really good saws for practically nothing and sell the other brands on ebay for more than they're worth!
I have several of the 25 and micro saws to use, I've learned to not buy one thinking I'm gonna make any money on them.
I've sold several of the little plastic Homelite and McCulloch saws, which I don't think are as good as the Poulan 25 for twice what the Poulans will bring or more. I guess I'm not very smart because I haven't figured that out yet...End of Rant..
HeRoze
Addicted to ArboristSite
meh. repped ya', but I'm sickened by your luck a little bit :/
don't see the 25's around here at all. I'll have to make an effort to seek one out... s25a sounds like it has lots of respect here.
cajunhillbilly
ArboristSite Operative
3400 correct bar and oiler?
Help, I just picked up another 3400, a very clean one. I was told it had a fuel problem and would not start. I checked it out when I got home and compression was good but no spark, ahh bad coil, then flipped the switch the other way and got a spark. The switch was in the opposite way, could be why he couldn’t get it started. I have it running and carb adjusted, runs great but it does not seem to have the correct bar or the oiler is not working or both. I read back in the thread about another oiler situation which helps me understand it as a whole, but bars are confusing to me and found nothing that’s helps on that subject. In the photo the top bar is what I took off this 3400. The middle bar came off a 245A and is the one I want to use on this 3400 I just got, it’s a 20”. The bottom bar is what came off another 3400 I have, its 16” and looks OEM to me but not one you can flip over, no small hole on each side. Will the 245 bar work on a 3400? Does it look like the top bar is the wrong bar (it does to me) all together? With the cover, bar and chain guards off and the saw running\revving, should oil be coming out of the hole because it doesn’t seem too unless it is extremely small amount I don’t notice, the manual oiling does work? So do I have a bar problem, oiler problem or both.
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Help, I just picked up another 3400, a very clean one. I was told it had a fuel problem and would not start. I checked it out when I got home and compression was good but no spark, ahh bad coil, then flipped the switch the other way and got a spark. The switch was in the opposite way, could be why he couldn’t get it started. I have it running and carb adjusted, runs great but it does not seem to have the correct bar or the oiler is not working or both. I read back in the thread about another oiler situation which helps me understand it as a whole, but bars are confusing to me and found nothing that’s helps on that subject. In the photo the top bar is what I took off this 3400. The middle bar came off a 245A and is the one I want to use on this 3400 I just got, it’s a 20”. The bottom bar is what came off another 3400 I have, its 16” and looks OEM to me but not one you can flip over, no small hole on each side. Will the 245 bar work on a 3400? Does it look like the top bar is the wrong bar (it does to me) all together? With the cover, bar and chain guards off and the saw running\revving, should oil be coming out of the hole because it doesn’t seem too unless it is extremely small amount I don’t notice, the manual oiling does work? So do I have a bar problem, oiler problem or both.
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That top bar will not work on the 3400 as it appears to be a McCulloch bar which does not use a oiler hole in it. The other 2 are what you want to use and yes the 245 used the same bar as the 3400.
cajunhillbilly
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks, that's what I figured. You know how it is when you get used saws and what others have done in the past. The question on the oiler; it seems it is not auto oiling even with the 245 bar on it. The rails are clean. no oil flying off the chain as others saws I have does. How much oil should I see coming out of the hole with the saw running and no bar on it?
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
First of all, thats a bad plan, plenty here can tell you what fun searching for clutch parts that don't end up in your head when that comes spinning off is like. Does it oil with the manual oiler? You might try thinning the bar oil after flushing out the tank. Others here know more about this than I, just don't run a saw without the clutch cover on as a general rule of thumb.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
i do it...
ive done it LOL only had a bad thing happen one time a saw i had just got in a 3.7 craftsman... the clutch was only on hand tight andparts went flying!!! took 3 days looking in the yard and mulch to find all the parts LOL ... make sure its on tight is all have to say!!!!!
ive done it LOL only had a bad thing happen one time a saw i had just got in a 3.7 craftsman... the clutch was only on hand tight andparts went flying!!! took 3 days looking in the yard and mulch to find all the parts LOL ... make sure its on tight is all have to say!!!!!
cajunhillbilly
ArboristSite Operative
Oh yea, I'm well known for living dangerously...lol, not.
Yes manual does work, the first pump, then it takes a while to rest to work again. Maybe designed that way. I found a lot of noodles under the cover and some small amount under the diaphragm, which looks good as far as I can tell. The small foam filter has decentigraded. I'll need to replace that.
Yes manual does work, the first pump, then it takes a while to rest to work again. Maybe designed that way. I found a lot of noodles under the cover and some small amount under the diaphragm, which looks good as far as I can tell. The small foam filter has decentigraded. I'll need to replace that.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
That was a SWEET deal for $30. I agree with the others. Fantastic saws.................but we want the unwashed masses (Poulan haters) to continue to believe that these are junk, and not worth much $$$. More saws for us..................for less money!
Yep. That top bar looks like a D276/TMX 10-series McCulloch mount. The middle and bottom bars are variations of the D176 Poulan/Echo mount, with the bottom one being a non-reverseable. Probably a 'bananna' low-kickback bar. The middle bar would work fine on a 10-series McCulloch too.
Sounds like you got the pump apart already. I have seen that foam filter gone before and the pump full of crap where the pintle couldnt move and of course the oiler wont work then.
You can make a new filter out of B&S filter foam, no problem there. Make sure that everything is clean, clean, clean before it goes back together. Also check the pickup hose very closely as well as they can crack and suck air instead of oil. Dont forget the foam seal that goes around the manual pump rod either, that keeps alot of crap from building up around the pump.
Here are a couple pages form the 3400 service manual from the oiler section.
zogger
Tree Freak
Best deal on fuel line?
Who has the best deal on a roll of fuel line? All these poulans seem to take the same and buying it by the foot locally is getting spendy.
That last 3400 will have to wait, tried to make one good carb out of two, that didn't work, and apparently I bought the *wrong* carb kit for them. Walbro one is an hdb8 the other is 18. I bought a k10 kit and is that wrong. I musta read my info incorrectly on what I needed. Tried reusing the best gaskets and best housing parts, etc..nada, floods too easy. I set the metering lever flush with the top of the housing, is that correct, or should it be flush down inside the housing where it is pinned, on that removable plate?
Anyway, switched to my first craftsperson, a 2.0 tophandle, that looks easy, two pieces of fuel line and a filter should do it, pops and runs for a few seconds with a few drops down the carb. Still has that nipple in the handle to reuse.
Who has the best deal on a roll of fuel line? All these poulans seem to take the same and buying it by the foot locally is getting spendy.
That last 3400 will have to wait, tried to make one good carb out of two, that didn't work, and apparently I bought the *wrong* carb kit for them. Walbro one is an hdb8 the other is 18. I bought a k10 kit and is that wrong. I musta read my info incorrectly on what I needed. Tried reusing the best gaskets and best housing parts, etc..nada, floods too easy. I set the metering lever flush with the top of the housing, is that correct, or should it be flush down inside the housing where it is pinned, on that removable plate?
Anyway, switched to my first craftsperson, a 2.0 tophandle, that looks easy, two pieces of fuel line and a filter should do it, pops and runs for a few seconds with a few drops down the carb. Still has that nipple in the handle to reuse.
