Nik's Poulan Thread

[XPLRN]

Anybody see the s6000 on eBay? Wish I had $500

That is one sweet and unique saw!! Is it someone from AS selling it??

 

[Nardoo]

I think Al's right, it's an R-30.

I can't check because someone offered me $350.00 for my R30. I was sick of breaking starter ropes anyway but I do occassionally miss it. (sorry for putting a Partner in the Poulan thread!)

Al.

 

[XPLRN]

As far as the muffler I believe you can get a new updated kit, the same one as on the PP330. As far as bars go you can either switch over to .325 and find tons of bars to fit the K041 mount or call Bailey's and they will take .325 Oregon powermatch and switch the nose to 3/8 for you at no charge.

Thanks again for the info you have provided. I'm wondering if anyone else can confirm that the "new updated kit, the same one as on the PP330. " will work on the 3750??

As shown here the muffler has seen better days; mismatched hardware and shoddy repair.

Did the 3750 come with .375 chain stock(presuming so as you mentioned switching over to .325) and what would be to gain, besides easier bar/chain availability, by going with .325 B/C?? I did see where there was a sticker on the handle providing part numbers for a 22" bar and chain.

I went ahead and punched the part numbers into the 'OrderTree.com' parts number look-up and they were both obsolete. Sooo I'm wondering what 3750 owners here on AS have found that the 3750 saw favors in soft wood/Ponderosa Pine?? I would think a 18" or 20" bar/blade combo would let it pull pretty well or will it pull a 22" with ease?? I'm going to have to get something ordered soon as it came with a off-brand short 14" bar and chain on it.

 

[Eccentric]

I have a red Craftsman 2.1A like that. The red CVA's don't come up too often. I've missed a couple on feebay recently. I do have a green S25-CVA though.

 

[dynodave]

3400 repair/upgrade to 3800

Hello Poulan fans
Almost ready to pull the trigger and buy a piston for my experimental big bore 3400. Not much experimental really but trying to cheap out to fix this saw. I'm trying this.... as much to practice boring cylinders.... as for saving the $93 for the new cylinder.
The P/C is ugly from looking in the exhaust port and it need surgery bad. I've been trying to research the cylinder materials and want to bore out the unplated 3.4 cylinder 530012066 1.810" up to a 3800-1.880" and use a 3800 chrome piston 530010626 for $50.26 at TEW. I should be able to bore it on the milling machine with only needing a bit of tooling to hold the cylinder upside down. Have any poulan veterans examined closely these series cylinders and detected port and transfer port differences that would make this a fools mission? My current biggest saw is 50cc jred 525 and the 61cc 3800 would come in handy for the bigger stuff.
Any other words of wisdom appreciated.
Dave

 

[XPLRN]

Went to look at a 3750 thinking it might be something a friend wanted. It wasn't in that good of shape to want to ship to him but I did pick it up knowing it was going to take some work. 3750 parts I'd like to find;

1. Air filter cover
2. Air filter
3. Bar and chain ( what size bar and what kind of chain will it pull well in softer wood??)
4. muffler
5. Something I can't think of right now!????

Thanks in advance for any parts sourcing info........maybe someone's got a parts 3750 saw under the bench/on the shelf??

Here are some pictures of the saw to help define the "It wasn't in that good of shape..." comment;

Actually the saw doesn't look that bad in this area;

Here is some of the bad;

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I have a red Craftsman 2.1A like that. The red CVA's don't come up too often. I've missed a couple on feebay recently. I do have a green S25-CVA though.

I have another 2.1 Craftsman just like the one I posted only in yellow. A friend of mine bought it new and gave it to me for some auto repair work I did for him. I changed out the 1/4" pitch chain for a 3/8". It needed all the stuff changed anyway, well worn.

 

[OhioGregg]

Hello Poulan fans
Almost ready to pull the trigger and buy a piston for my experimental big bore 3400. Not much experimental really but trying to cheap out to fix this saw. I'm trying this.... as much to practice boring cylinders.... as for saving the $93 for the new cylinder.
The P/C is ugly from looking in the exhaust port and it need surgery bad. I've been trying to research the cylinder materials and want to bore out the unplated 3.4 cylinder 530012066 1.810" up to a 3800-1.880" and use a 3800 chrome piston 530010626 for $50.26 at TEW. I should be able to bore it on the milling machine with only needing a bit of tooling to hold the cylinder upside down. Have any poulan veterans examined closely these series cylinders and detected port and transfer port differences that would make this a fools mission? My current biggest saw is 50cc jred 525 and the 61cc 3800 would come in handy for the bigger stuff.
Any other words of wisdom appreciated.
Dave

Dave, I hate to poop on peoples parades, but that sounds like a lot of hassle & expense to get something a little bigger cc that might work, and might not. Now if you want to try it just for the fun of it, have at it by all means.
You can find a complete used piston/cyl for near $50 from time to time on Ebay. Same for decent parts saws. I would look for a 3700 (61cc) or 4000 (64cc) P/C or used saw and just swap them. They will all interchange. The crank & cases are all the same.
Good luck with whatever way you go with it!!!:msp_thumbup:


Gregg,

 

[Chris J.]

Hello Poulan fans
Almost ready to pull the trigger and buy a piston for my experimental big bore 3400. Not much experimental really but trying to cheap out to fix this saw. I'm trying this.... as much to practice boring cylinders.... as for saving the $93 for the new cylinder.
The P/C is ugly from looking in the exhaust port and it need surgery bad. I've been trying to research the cylinder materials and want to bore out the unplated 3.4 cylinder 530012066 1.810" up to a 3800-1.880" and use a 3800 chrome piston 530010626 for $50.26 at TEW. I should be able to bore it on the milling machine with only needing a bit of tooling to hold the cylinder upside down. Have any poulan veterans examined closely these series cylinders and detected port and transfer port differences that would make this a fools mission? My current biggest saw is 50cc jred 525 and the 61cc 3800 would come in handy for the bigger stuff.
Any other words of wisdom appreciated.
Dave

Dave, I hate to poop on peoples parades, but that sounds like a lot of hassle & expense to get something a little bigger cc that might work, and might not. Now if you want to try it just for the fun of it, have at it by all means.
You can find a complete used piston/cyl for near $50 from time to time on Ebay. Same for decent parts saws. I would look for a 3700 (61cc) or 4000 (64cc) P/C or used saw and just swap them. They will all interchange. The crank & cases are all the same.
Good luck with whatever way you go with it!!!:msp_thumbup:


Gregg,

I agree with Gregg. If you're doing the scrounging and work just because you can, go for it & enjoy! OTOH if you're needing a 60+cc Poulan saw, there are easier ways to put one together, or you could just buy one cheap enough.

 

[OhioGregg]

Here are some pictures of the saw to help define the "It wasn't in that good of shape..." comment;

Some of those parts you mention are or were at least a couple years ago still available from Poulan. The air filter, muffler, muffler bolts etc. The cover was not. Probably need to be looking for used parts or saws. One good thing is several saws used the same parts. Like 3450, 3750, and Poulan Pro 330, 380 etc. I have a very well used 380. Looks like heck, but runs and cuts great! I use the snot out of it. The bars for these are not plentiful. The first one I found was a Poulan 20" laminated bar, part# 530-044739. I later found a PP 20" replaceable sprocket nose bar, that I liked better. Part# 530-044547 made in Canada. Both are 3/8" 70 dr. link, .50 ga. These bars oil through the adjuster hole.

Gregg,

 

[XPLRN]

Some of those parts you mention are or were at least a couple years ago still available from Poulan. The air filter, muffler, muffler bolts etc. The cover was not. Probably need to be looking for used parts or saws. One good thing is several saws used the same parts. Like 3450, 3750, and Poulan Pro 330, 380 etc. I have a very well used 380. Looks like heck, but runs and cuts great! I use the snot out of it. The bars for these are not plentiful. The first one I found was a Poulan 20" laminated bar, part# 530-044739. I later found a PP 20" replaceable sprocket nose bar, that I liked better. Part# 530-044547 made in Canada. Both are 3/8" 70 dr. link, .50 ga. These bars oil through the adjuster hole.



Gregg,

Thanks, Gregg, for your shared information. So am I to understand that the bar mount setup

These bars oil through the adjuster hole.

is different between the 3750 and say the 4000?? I was hoping to have some degree of exchange between the two saws........looks like that might not be the case!??

What is the KO41 mount referenced here by S-P ;

As far as bars go you can either switch over to .325 and find tons of bars to fit the K041 mount or call Bailey's and they will take .325 Oregon powermatch and switch the nose to 3/8 for you at no charge.

Yes, I'm not a well versed Poulan owner and I do appreciate the help that you folks have been sharing with me. What I am not understanding is this;

Does the KO41 mount have the

These bars oil through the adjuster hole.

bar oiling setup........I'm presuming it does or S-P wouldn't have reccomended it?? I've been looking thru the Baileys listings and must be missing the KO41 reference for bar mounts.

Sooo in looking for a parts saw is there any of the Craftsman badged Poulans that I could add to the 3450/3750/PP330/PP380 and whatever else list?? Is there any kind of Poulan interchange guide to know which saws have basically the same platform/bar mounts???

 

[OhioGregg]

XPLRN,
I am no expert with these small, to midsize Poulans that use the Oregon K041 type mount. The 380 is the only saw I have that uses it. I'm sure there are others, both Crafstman & Poulan. I can't recall that there was a direct Craftsman version of the 3750/380 saw though.

And you are correct. The D0176 type bar from a 4000, will not fit. Completely different animal. Although they both use the same chain on a 20" bar. LOL The D0176 bars have oil holes farther up towards the rails. The K041 oils through the upper adjuster hole. If you were to flip the bar over, it would oil through the other hole.

The problem with finding bars for these is that they are 3/8" (.375) pitch. Most saws that use this the K041 style mount, use .325 pitch. Thats why Stihl-Pioneer was referring to the fact that Bailey's could swap the .325 sprocket tip for a .375 tip. Just the same, you could find a .325 clutch sprocket. Depends on whether you prefer .325 or .375 chain

Me, I don't own a saw with .325 chain, all mine are 3/8". Thats why I prefer it.

Now all that was probably just clear as MUD wasn't it? LOL


Gregg,

 

[XPLRN]

XPLRN,
I am no expert with these small, to midsize Poulans that use the Oregon K041 type mount. The 380 is the only saw I have that uses it. I'm sure there are others, both Crafstman & Poulan. I can't recall that there was a direct Craftsman version of the 3750/380 saw though.

And you are correct. The D0176 type bar from a 4000, will not fit. Completely different animal. Although they both use the same chain on a 20" bar. LOL The D0176 bars have oil holes farther up towards the rails. The K041 oils through the upper adjuster hole. If you were to flip the bar over, it would oil through the other hole.

The problem with finding bars for these is that they are 3/8" (.375) pitch. Most saws that use this the K041 style mount, use .325 pitch. Thats why Stihl-Pioneer was referring to the fact that Bailey's could swap the .325 sprocket tip for a .375 tip. Just the same, you could find a .325 clutch sprocket. Depends on whether you prefer .325 or .375 chain

Me, I don't own a saw with .325 chain, all mine are 3/8". Thats why I prefer it.

Now all that was probably just clear as MUD wasn't it? LOL


Gregg,

Thanks a lot for your additional clarification...... I'm starting to "get it" . Part of the learning curve dealing with older saws and the various design revisions. I will go review the options with Baileys........I'd hoped to score a good deal on a close out bar/chain combo. Having to do the nose tip swap will probably preclude that.

I was very happy to find that A LOT of the small parts I needed were available thru the business, OrderTree.com , that S-H had referred me to; thanks again S-H!! :msp_thumbsup:

 

[chainsawwhisperer]

That is one sweet and unique saw!! Is it someone from AS selling it??

He's a buddy of mine on F/B. He's on AS but never posts... That's who I got the 4200 from.

He mentioned selling it at some point a while ago. So I txked him a couple days ago about selling it towards the end of Summer...so whats he do...says he's going to sell it now to finance another project.GGGGRRRR.
He's also going to sell a Military Strunk saw and a couple others.
Jim

 

[8433jeff]

Thanks a lot for your additional clarification...... I'm starting to "get it" . Part of the learning curve dealing with older saws and the various design revisions. I will go review the options with Baileys........I'd hoped to score a good deal on a close out bar/chain combo. Having to do the nose tip swap will probably preclude that.

I was very happy to find that A LOT of the small parts I needed were available thru the business, OrderTree.com , that S-H had referred me to; thanks again S-H!! :msp_thumbsup:

A file would be all that was needed to "convert" a D176 mount (3400, 3700, 4000) to work on the 3450, 3750, etc. Many of those bars used to be able to oil from both holes. The difference in slot width is .007", or .2 mm for the metrically challenged. A round file will fix a closed hole on a 176 (or a K095). Some may feel that the oil will escape the bar holes and make a mess; I've always found the newer style saws without bar plates, or for that matter any saw oiling through the adjusting holes to be an oil slick/stain/puddle waiting to happen. But it oils the chain fine.
Now, K041's are not made from unobtainium-they are all over the bay, and still can be ordered from a Oregon dealer. One of this size Poulan in .325 can/does cut well. I still prefer 3/8's either LP (picco) or full size, but have softened the ".325 is a marketing gimmick" stance I once held. It has a place, but I forsee many other shops charging by the link for purchase and sharpening.

 

[chris413]

poulan s25da

i have a poulan s25da and having trouble tuning the carb. i am a novice and dont want to ruin this great little piece of machinery. ive done some reading and have my H and L set at 1 1/4 out and i get it to start but not keep running. i had messed with the Idel screw, and dont remember how many turns out it should be, and cant find any info as to how many turns is needed. any help? thanks

 

[stubnail67]

i have a poulan s25da and having trouble tuning the carb. i am a novice and dont want to ruin this great little piece of machinery. ive done some reading and have my H and L set at 1 1/4 out and i get it to start but not keep running. i had messed with the Idel screw, and dont remember how many turns out it should be, and cant find any info as to how many turns is needed. any help? thanks

i adjust my idle to where the chain stops moving around... 1 turn to start on adjust low till it throttles good and quick and the high i do in wood might be 1 or 1 and 1/8th or a lil more.... but these guys can tell you much better then me..... did you rebuild the carb?

 

[chris413]

nope, bought it used. its my first saw. im not very mechanical.

 

[zogger]

i have a poulan s25da and having trouble tuning the carb. i am a novice and dont want to ruin this great little piece of machinery. ive done some reading and have my H and L set at 1 1/4 out and i get it to start but not keep running. i had messed with the Idel screw, and dont remember how many turns out it should be, and cant find any info as to how many turns is needed. any help? thanks

Screwing it in is higher RPMs. that's it, Keep bumping it in until it idles satisfactorily for you, but doesn't engage the clutch. I have no idea what a factory setting is on that, but that is how I do all my idle adjustments and seems to work OK. Once the engine is hot, you might have to tweak it up or down some.

 

[Chris J.]

This could be a good buy for the right person. Any idea as to which Poulan it is?

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