Nik's Poulan Thread

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I have an S6000 that is the 152 and it doesn't have the near the snot of my 166. I do not know if there is a big difference between the 152 and 153. I also have not tore into the 152 to see if it needs some freshening so take what i say with a grain of salt.

But, they do look really nice sitting side by side!! :hmm3grin2orange:

You got 29 minutes to make up your mind.

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I have an S6000 that is the 152 and it doesn't have the near the snot of my 166. I do not know if there is a big difference between the 152 and 153. I also have not tore into the 152 to see if it needs some freshening so take what i say with a grain of salt.

But, they do look really nice sitting side by side!! :hmm3grin2orange:

You got 29 minutes to make up your mind.

Thanks. I think I'm going to hold out for something from a member in the future. Thanks for your advice.
 
I have a poulan 2150, Does the return line going to the tank have a one way valve on it? When the tank builds up pressure it will flow back through the carb. I replaced all the lines but there was no valve on the return line. But it could have been lost cause the lines were completely rotten. The saw runs good except when you run it a while and stop it and it floods the carb
 
I have a poulan 2150, Does the return line going to the tank have a one way valve on it? When the tank builds up pressure it will flow back through the carb. I replaced all the lines but there was no valve on the return line. But it could have been lost cause the lines were completely rotten. The saw runs good except when you run it a while and stop it and it floods the carb

There's a purge, suction bulb there, yes? It sucks mix through the carb. Fuel comes up from the tank, goes in over the other side of the carb, gets sucked out the line closer to the purge valve, on this side. I forget which is which on the bulb, just pump it a few, you'll feel which line is the suck side. That's the one way "valve" action you are looking for.
 
There's a purge, suction bulb there, yes? It sucks mix through the carb. Fuel comes up from the tank, goes in over the other side of the carb, gets sucked out the line closer to the purge valve, on this side. I forget which is which on the bulb, just pump it a few, you'll feel which line is the suck side. That's the one way "valve" action you are looking for.
I meant is there one in the gas tank on the return line, Sorry i didn't ask too well.lol The purge valve works fine but seems like i have seen a tank valve on the return line somewhere before in a diagram. I looked on several sites for diagrams and can't find the gas tank diagram. I know when it builds pressure, gas is coming back through the return line.
 
I meant is there one in the gas tank on the return line, Sorry i didn't ask too well.lol The purge valve works fine but seems like i have seen a tank valve on the return line somewhere before in a diagram. I looked on several sites for diagrams and can't find the gas tank diagram. I know when it builds pressure, gas is coming back through the return line.

Is that a vented cap model, has a duckbill (or similar) in it?
 
I'm going from recollection here but I don't believe the fuel cap is vented. I do know that the return line on my 2375 has a duckbill valve on the return line in the tank. Likely same for the 2150.
Thanks, I thought i seen one before, It's called a duckbill valve? i dunno what to ask for at the lawnmower shop.lol
 
Picked up this saw yesterday. After replacing the fuel line and filter, putting in a new metering diaphragm generally cleaning up the carb I have this problem: Starts on the choke OK then speeds up (races) when off the choke, then dies almost immediately:bang:. Just can't get it to idle despite trying many idle adjustments. Comp is 140psi and the saw is in pretty good shape with a slight scoring of the piston. Has an excellent 18" bar & Chain. It runs a Walbro WT carb. It doesn't owe me much but would like to get it running to have as a loaner.

Thanks,

Lee

have you checked the 4 bolts that hold the engine into the case? if they're loose, you'll need to pull the engine and reseal it properly.
also, the carb spacer likes to come loose on this model (among other ones in the line up):bang:
 
I meant is there one in the gas tank on the return line, Sorry i didn't ask too well.lol The purge valve works fine but seems like i have seen a tank valve on the return line somewhere before in a diagram. I looked on several sites for diagrams and can't find the gas tank diagram. I know when it builds pressure, gas is coming back through the return line.

the tank valve is used to let air into the tank, not out; the duck-bill is a check valve and keeps the tank pressure up. the places i have noticed that may cause this are a leaking inlet needle, or metering lever set too high (keeping the needle off the seat)....

i am interested to hear other possibilities since i have a rebuilt dolmar that will empty the tank when it gets hot and the pressure builds. I removed the check valve in the vent to control the situation, but obviously this wasn't a fix but a (hopefully temporary) work around.
 
found me some vintage poulan finally! 5400 by the id plate. thought these sported a black cover,replaced maybe?someone wound up the starter rope around the inside shaft no not the rope groove. i thought at first the rewind was shot,but sorted that out real quick,back to smooth,lol.still have to clean the tank before i start it. does need several bolts and an air filter but piston cylinder(thru muffler) look new!these pics were after about an hour of cleaning.had a bout 30 years of crud on it. definately used daily and probably up until it was pawned.crud smelled like motor oil,not sure if thats was ran as the bar oil for a while?maybe even as mix,as the build up by the exhaust was black and thick.

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found me some vintage poulan finally! 5400 by the id plate. thought these sported a black cover,replaced maybe?someone wound up the starter rope around the inside shaft no not the rope groove. i thought at first the rewind was shot,but sorted that out real quick,back to smooth,lol.still have to clean the tank before i start it. does need several bolts and an air filter but piston cylinder(thru muffler) look new!these pics were after about an hour of cleaning.had a bout 30 years of crud on it. definately used daily and probably up until it was pawned.crud smelled like motor oil,not sure if thats was ran as the bar oil for a while?maybe even as mix,as the build up by the exhaust was black and thick.

man, cool! Lookit the pipe on that thing!

You are gonna have to name that saw.....
 
The carbs did use those discs, but I've found they suck to pop out of the carb body and suck to put back in. The fuel tank top is the base of the top handle(if it isn't a CVA) and there is supposed to be a gasket between the tank bottom and the top. According to the service manual, if those screws holding the halves together are loosened with fuel in the tank, a leak is going to occur. I have heard of people using Dirko or Yamabond instead, but never tried it myself.

Nick

Nick it seems in your short time here, you have become quite the expert? :msp_sad:

With the question as is was presented, it could not even be answered. The S25's used several carbs over its production run and you would need to know which carb the poster had before you could comment correctly. The used Tillitson HU carbs, Walbro WA's and WT's as well as even Zama carbs on some of the last models. Some used welch plugs and some didnt.

I think it would be safe to say that all of us here would like to know the info given to them is correct, so please help us keep to those standards.
 

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