Nik's Poulan Thread

[rms61moparman]

Bob, I believe the "airbox" reference is simply where the fuel line comes out where the carb is mounted. Area where the carb is mounted is often referred to as the airbox. It is simply a matter of reference. The top of the hole is the airbox floor, the bottom is inside the fuel tank.

Steve

:agree2::agree2::agree2:

The whole area where the carb draws air from is what they refer to as the "airbox".

Mike

 

[lawnmowertech37]

I thought I would try here first before I posted in the beg for manual thread but does any one have a electronic version for a 306A and a 3400? If you do PM me and I'll send ya my email.

Sefh you need the ipl correct ? I think i can fix you up with them just have to upload them to my computer

 

[Modifiedmark]

Sefh you need the ipl correct ? I think i can fix you up with them just have to upload them to my computer

I got him fixed up for you Calvin.

 

[Modifiedmark]

i haven't seen any more failures from the 3400 or 3800 that i haven't seen from the 3700's. the remark was a small bit of humor.
i have worked on these for quite a while and know the 3400 will pull alot of hours before any major wear will show up, the chrome holds up just fine if you can keep the dust from passing the crappy excuse for a filter they put on these saws. the crank bearings are what you need to really look at, they would get sloppy on the second tank of fuel (exaduration of course) and then let the crank slap from side to side when they move outward. no stops in the bearing bores to stop them from walking right out and pushing the seals out to touch the flywheel or spit the other out on the clutch side.
unless your a builder the chromed piston/alloy cyl. won't cause any more problems that a chrome cyl,/alloy piston would.

I have never seen a crank walk far enough to push the seals out. The thrust washers on the crank would have to be all but gone to let it do that I would think. The thrust washers can wear quite a bit and allow some side to side movement of the crank, but it really don't seem to bother these saws too much that way.


I have seen the brgs loosen and the flywheel touch the coil though.

Any saw using a caged needle brg will always have more play in the brgs then a regular roller brg. Just the nature of the beast.

It should be noted that over tight chains are not in a caged needle brgs best intrest also.

I have pictures of that brg setup if anyone wants to see them.


I agree with the airfilter setup on the 3400 being less then optimal to say the least, but what do the Stihl guys say about the 029-290 saws? They say to clean them often and this is the same deal here.

The 3700 setup with the slotted cover seems to help alot and I have drilled 3400 filter covers with almost the same results.

By the time they came out with the 4000 filter setup, this disscussion is over as that setup works very well.

 

[brokenbudget]

I have never seen a crank walk far enough to push the seals out. The thrust washers on the crank would have to be all but gone to let it do that I would think. The thrust washers can wear quite a bit and allow some side to side movement of the crank, but it really don't seem to bother these saws too much that way. I have seen the brgs loosen and the flywheel touch the coil though. Any saw using a caged needle brg will always have more play in the brgs then a regular roller brg. Just the nature of the beast. It should be noted that over tight chains are not in a caged needle brgs best intrest also. I have pictures of that brg setup if anyone wants to see them. I agree with the airfilter setup on the 3400 being less then optimal to say the least, but what do the Stihl guys say about the 029-290 saws? They say to clean them often and this is the same deal here.
The 3700 setup with the slotted cover seems to help alot and I have drilled 3400 filter covers with almost the same results.
By the time they came out with the 4000 filter setup, this disscussion is over as that setup works very well.

mark. i've only had 1 saw (3400) that pushed the bearing that far out. the bearing ended up spinning in the bore and pushing the seal out far enough to touch the flywheel. and yes the flywheel was grinding against the coil the clutch side was pushed out the same way but the bore looked alright. i figured it might have something to do with the f.w. side loading it and basicly prying the other out. funny thing is, it only would act up if you put the saw on it's side (flywheel). heh heh, guy was only bringing it in to get new seals put in. now it sits in the parts shed. top end is good...

 

[OhioGregg]

Old 3400/3700 air filters

Here's a few examples of the air filters that were on some junk/part saws.
It seems to me that its pretty obvious why the saws end up that way.
People run them this way for years, they poop, then they say "that saw is a POS". Just a little care and service, and most of them would still be in use.


Gregg,

 

[joe25DA]

Here's a few examples of the air filters that were on some junk/part saws.
It seems to me that its pretty obvious why the saws end up that way.
People run them this way for years, they poop, then they say "that saw is a POS". Just a little care and service, and most of them would still be in use.


Gregg,

I took one out of a 3400 that looked just like the filter in the top right. All screen. Luckily, the p&c were good.

 

[redunshee]

:agree2::agree2::agree2:

The whole area where the carb draws air from is what they refer to as the "airbox".

Mike

Thanks guys. Thought I was missing a part but guess not.

Bob

 

[redunshee]

I took one out of a 3400 that looked just like the filter in the top right. All screen. Luckily, the p&c were good.

Those filters were simply abused and never cleaned regularly. No wonder saws had problems!
Bob

 

[brokenbudget]

Those filters were simply abused and never cleaned regularly. No wonder saws had problems!
Bob

i think it's deeper than that. i've had a few come in with good, well maintained filters and they still showed alot of crud under them, through the carb, in the 'manifold' and right around the case in the crankcase (out of the way of the crank and bearings--not causing any problems at this point).
even the new filters are letting dust through--if you can see it under the flocking material getting sucked in the carb....
note to self: blow the new filter out before instaling it:greenchainsaw:
a bit of filter oil goes a long way on these.

 

[redunshee]

i think it's deeper than that. i've had a few come in with good, well maintained filters and they still showed alot of crud under them, through the carb, in the 'manifold' and right around the case in the crankcase (out of the way of the crank and bearings--not causing any problems at this point).
even the new filters are letting dust through--if you can see it under the flocking material getting sucked in the carb....
note to self: blow the new filter out before instaling it:greenchainsaw:
a bit of filter oil goes a long way on these.

Agree with that!

 

[lawnmowertech37]

Wish they could invent some type of felt material to use on the 245 306 filters that would be a popular filter material then .


And thanks mark for helping him with the ipls

On my way to look for Bobs parts he needs for his starter assembly

 

[OhioGregg]

i think it's deeper than that. i've had a few come in with good, well maintained filters and they still showed alot of crud under them, through the carb, in the 'manifold' and right around the case in the crankcase (out of the way of the crank and bearings--not causing any problems at this point).
even the new filters are letting dust through--if you can see it under the flocking material getting sucked in the carb....
note to self: blow the new filter out before instaling it:greenchainsaw:
a bit of filter oil goes a long way on these.

:agree2:
You are right, on the small amount of fine dust getting past or around the filter where it suppose to seal off. Thats why I try to clean them up at every refueling.
I never thought about oiling the filters on these. Might have to try that.
I know some foam type filters are suppose to be oiled. Like the S25DA for example.
Thanks for the tip.


Gregg,

 

[lawnmowertech37]

Hey Bob i have the 530042041 and the 530042039 discs i will put them with image on the obsolete poulan catalog on my site tonight

and supply you with the links

 

[redunshee]

Hey Bob i have the 530042041 and the 530042039 discs i will put them with image on the obsolete poulan catalog on my site tonight

and supply you with the links

Sounds good

 

[Modifiedmark]

i think it's deeper than that. i've had a few come in with good, well maintained filters and they still showed alot of crud under them, through the carb, in the 'manifold' and right around the case in the crankcase (out of the way of the crank and bearings--not causing any problems at this point).
even the new filters are letting dust through--if you can see it under the flocking material getting sucked in the carb....
note to self: blow the new filter out before instaling it:greenchainsaw:
a bit of filter oil goes a long way on these.

You for sure have to pay attention to make sure the filter on these are situated properly and the cover will come down and seal the edges.

That is where the trouble is on these when they get bent and just thown back on.

The other thing is you have to be carefull with aftermarket filters as I have seen some just made improperly where the edge's are suppose to seal.

 

[brokenbudget]

You for sure have to pay attention to make sure the filter on these are situated properly and the cover will come down and seal the edges.

That is where the trouble is on these when they get bent and just thown back on.

The other thing is you have to be carefull with aftermarket filters as I have seen some just made improperly where the edge's are suppose to seal.

i have 2 of those sitting on a shelf right now i bought off ebay a while back.
you can tell right away when trying to install them.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

Sounds good

http://www.cmsmallengines.net/poulan-disc-starter-rewind-part-530042041-530-042041.html


http://www.cmsmallengines.net/poulan-disc-starter-rewind-530042039-530-042039.html


the round one i have 2 of them so if you want to get that second one for spare in case you ever need it again feel free

shipping for all three should not run over $ 4.50 First class

If you can tell me what saw model this is for i can check to see if i have the correct starter spring
oem

 

[Modifiedmark]

i have 2 of those sitting on a shelf right now i bought off ebay a while back.
you can tell right away when trying to install them.

Yes, you and I can but there are probably alot of others who never check or notice.

 

[redunshee]

Yes, you and I can but there are probably alot of others who never check or notice.

Think we all have some of these. I have three. Couldn't pass up price. Yea, right. So who has a good source?

Bob