Nik's Poulan Thread

[stubnail67]

ummmm

Thank you for the info. I went back and looked at that part of the saw again. I found the check valve. It is o.k., thank goodness. I see they are obsolete. I didn't see any thing that resembles a pump nor a filter. The check valve in the tank is good too but the filter is gone. I also found the filter on line, I guess. It is round with a hole in the center. They come 2 to a pack. I don't think that you can use but one, right?:msp_smile:

i have only seen one out of 12 saws that it was that pump..... i have had alot be the check valve...... how do you know your check valve is good? if you can blow through it both ways ive found they are shot... put it all back together and see if it oils..... if not i would bet its the check valve... i just replaced one last week along with the line and oil filter.. it oils up a storm now...i went through 50 places 3 weeks back and found a guy with 2 check valves i bought both i needed 3 but got 2...i would replace that line put it back together and see what she does.....why buy parts till you have to....

 

[Heckel]

View attachment 234394

That picture looks like what i call the check valve. If you look at the clutch side of the saw, look at the clutch, at the 4:00 oclock position, I have a cover held on by 2 screws. Remove those 2 screws and the cover, pull the check valve or whatever, out and it looks just like your picture. Air will go through one way but not the other. ????? What is it the pump or the check valve?:msp_unsure:

 

[HeRoze]

Unless there is some Swahili dialect where the word "Pump" = "check valve assembly with a hose barb" in English, there is no actual pump in a 2300 CVA. Apparently at least one IPL refers to a pump on a 2300CVA... and that is fine as long as you realize that it actually isn't. There are no moving parts at all in that oiler, unless one wants to make a point; the engine itself generates the pressure going to the oil tank.
Here's the best I can do to help. Good luck.

 

[stubnail67]

perfect..

Unless there is some Swahili dialect where the word "Pump" = "check valve assembly with a hose barb" in English, there is no actual pump in a 2300 CVA. Apparently at least one IPL refers to a pump on a 2300CVA... and that is fine as long as you realize that it actually isn't. There are no moving parts at all in that oiler, unless one wants to make a point; the engine itself generates the pressure going to the oil tank.
Here's the best I can do to help. Good luck.

i did relize it just wanted him to order the right part.... i would say that this lil pic is a perfect example of how it all works!!!!! and i agree with you.... good luck to him with that saw they are easy to fix but parts can be hard to come by... i know its not a pump brother but thats what poulan calls it.. nice job on how it all works... shows him where the filter is and how the crank case makes it work!

 

[HeRoze]

... and I'm not positive that the 530010195 metering assm needs/has the check. my memory (help us all) tells me that it does indeed have a built-in check valve, but it seems unlikely that there would be much neg pressure in the oil reservoir to need it. anyone know why / when a check valve would be req'd there?

 

[stubnail67]

not sure..

... and I'm not positive that the 530010195 metering assm needs/has the check. my memory (help us all) tells me that it does indeed have a built-in check valve, but it seems unlikely that there would be much neg pressure in the oil reservoir to need it. anyone know why / when a check valve would be req'd there?

not sure i thought it kept it from pissing oil all ofer the case after you put her up????? that and the lil pin up by the oil out let... i thought that was for high pressure and the bottom one was for after you shut it off????? ya got me..... im sure some of the other fellows know for sure.... I just tore the washing machine apart and fixed it mama is on the 2nd load lord please let it not leak water every where LMAO!!!! is it to early for beer?????

 

[Modifiedmark]

... and I'm not positive that the 530010195 metering assm needs/has the check. my memory (help us all) tells me that it does indeed have a built-in check valve, but it seems unlikely that there would be much neg pressure in the oil reservoir to need it. anyone know why / when a check valve would be req'd there?

Well I am positive that there is a checkvalve in the metering/pump assy and it is needed. Take one and suck on the outlet fitting and you should be able to suck air through it and if its working right you will not be able to blow air through it. Do not use your air hose and high air pressure on it though.

You did a nice job on the little diagram showing how that simple little system works. One of the simplest ever but confuses so many who cannot understand it.

This question of how this works comes by time and time again and someone needs to start a thread in the general chainsaw forum showing this diagram as well as pictures of the real saw and oiler parts, kinda like I did with the fuel line threads.

It would be a nice thing to be able to point new guys with the same ole questions to a thread like that explaining everything.

I had thought about doing it myself before but just never got around to it.

 

[stihl sawing]

Well the part for the 2150 came in yesterday and it was a fuel fitting, Not a check valve. I bought it anyway and left dissapointed. He did show me that's all that was shown on the return line. I got home and thought about it and realized i have a craftsman which is the same thing. So i took the gas cap off and looked in the tank and sure enough that fuel line fitting is all that's on the end of the line. So i put it on the poulan and put it all back together and got it tuned and ready to go. Going to cut a tree with it this weekend. We will see how it goes. So i guess there is not a check valve on the return line after all.

 

[Nardoo]

Unless there is some Swahili dialect where the word "Pump" = "check valve assembly with a hose barb" in English, there is no actual pump in a 2300 CVA. Apparently at least one IPL refers to a pump on a 2300CVA... and that is fine as long as you realize that it actually isn't. There are no moving parts at all in that oiler, unless one wants to make a point; the engine itself generates the pressure going to the oil tank.
Here's the best I can do to help. Good luck.

Great diagram. I love the way the oil exits to the bar AND work bench.

Al.

 

[stihl sawing]

Those are two really nice saws Stephen, I bet that 8500 will buzz with that small bar and chain.

 

[stubnail67]

owwww!!!!!

One saw for fellin and one for limbin and trimin. That little one limbs in a hurry...:jester:
That big-un is one of my all time favorites. I just wish it had a comp. release cause every once in a while it about takes the ends off my fingers.
The little one is a little heavy but you don't have to hold it very long. As soon as it stops raining I will take some video. I have had this saw for
a year or so but have not had a chance to play with it. The 24 inch bar was equiped with "race chain" and the guy warned me that it might be a touch "grabby".
It was filed down to nothing. I have a supply of these nice 15 inch bars, it should cut pretty well with them. I would love to get a longer NOS bar for it.
The "dawgs" are a bit large for trimin.

Thats a cat call owwww baby!!!!! those are some fine saws ya got thar!!!!!

 

[8433jeff]

Well the part for the 2150 came in yesterday and it was a fuel fitting, Not a check valve. I bought it anyway and left dissapointed. He did show me that's all that was shown on the return line. I got home and thought about it and realized i have a craftsman which is the same thing. So i took the gas cap off and looked in the tank and sure enough that fuel line fitting is all that's on the end of the line. So i put it on the poulan and put it all back together and got it tuned and ready to go. Going to cut a tree with it this weekend. We will see how it goes. So i guess there is not a check valve on the return line after all.

IIRC, the primer bulb has a check valve in it, so the return line would have a check valve in it. Remember, the primer pulls fuel through the carb. Kinda splitting hairs though.

 

[zogger]

One saw for fellin and one for limbin and trimin. That little one limbs in a hurry...:jester:
That big-un is one of my all time favorites. I just wish it had a comp. release cause every once in a while it about takes the ends off my fingers.
The little one is a little heavy but you don't have to hold it very long. As soon as it stops raining I will take some video. I have had this saw for
a year or so but have not had a chance to play with it. The 24 inch bar was equiped with "race chain" and the guy warned me that it might be a touch "grabby".
It was filed down to nothing. I have a supply of these nice 15 inch bars, it should cut pretty well with them. I would love to get a longer NOS bar for it.
The "dawgs" are a bit large for trimin.

--just a thought, but perhaps you can machine the cylinder (and case) to take a decomp button. Doesn't seem a terribly hard nor expensive mod to do or have done.

edit: I also wanted to ask, what size is that 330? It isn't on acres site that I could find.

I have a 295 and I have to say I am underwhelmed with it. I know it needs more work, but..of all my running poulans, meh. I need to drag it out and see if I can tweak it more.

 

[zogger]

good idea. If I wasn't so freakin old I wouldn't need it.:hmm3grin2orange:

Hear ya. I start just about everything I have on the ground, or between my legs. My days of drop starting..gone. Just don't even think about it anymore.

And it doesn't hurt my ego at all either. The saw still starts, it's just loads easier and less chance of hurting either me or the saw.

My local husky wrench showed me that scrunched over between your legs thing, man it works great. he told me, saort of paraphrased here, "look, I have to yank start 50 !@$%%## stupid things a day, trimmers to mowers blowers saws all of that, I am NOT ripping my shoulders out for some dumb machine anymore". And he's older than me by a few years and can't afford to not be able to use his hands and shoulders, or not get stuff started. I consider him to be a professional "small engine starter" so I believed him and started the on the ground or scrunched over techniques.

I really don't own anything hard to start though, my few larger (to me larger, not arborissite "large") poulans start real easy. I won't even consider past a few yanks, if the saw don't pop and start easy, back to the bench, grab another one, I just ain't fooling around with that junk when I have wood to cut.

 

[nick 55]

Hell, I'm only in my thirties and I don't drop start anything. I tore tendons in both elbows trying to press bushings into a control arm because my workplace didn't feel it was necessary to fix our shop press. Too much cranking on a really long bolt with nuts and washers. Now, if only I could find an electric start saw.....

Nick

 

[Eccentric]

Hell, I'm only in my thirties and I don't drop start anything. I tore tendons in both elbows trying to press bushings into a control arm because my workplace didn't feel it was necessary to fix our shop press. Too much cranking on a really long bolt with nuts and washers. Now, if only I could find an electric start saw.....

Nick

You won't find a green e-start saw. There were three different yeller ones made however. At least they take the same bars as the older green saws.....

 

[zogger]

Hell, I'm only in my thirties and I don't drop start anything. I tore tendons in both elbows trying to press bushings into a control arm because my workplace didn't feel it was necessary to fix our shop press. Too much cranking on a really long bolt with nuts and washers. Now, if only I could find an electric start saw.....

Nick

I have one. I consider it to be my only actual real 21st century technologically advanced modern saw. Granted, it is also my smallest and lightest duty saw, but for what it does, it's pretty spiffy.

I am looking forward to Oregons next model, to see where they can take this battery tech. And with stihl, husky and bosch now all making serious battery saws as well, we have normal industrial competition now, so I think the tech *will* keep getting better and better. Who knows, we might be only a few years away from a battery saw that can run an 18" or a 20" with some authority and also have some fair runtime on a charge.

 

[HeRoze]

===You did a nice job on the little diagram === This question of how this works comes by time and time again and someone needs to start a thread in the general chainsaw forum showing this diagram as well as pictures of the real saw and oiler parts, kinda like I did with the fuel line threads. ==

Thanks.

In the meantime I put the pic in my albums under Poulan... I can't find any pics from my 2300 rebuild. I don't think I took any as I was new to the 'pics or it didn't happen' mantra.

If anyone wants to dedicate a few pics to the cause shoot me an email.

 

[crowellmachine]

it is amazing how 30 years of great service from a Poulan 4200 can make you a Poulan fan for life.:hmm3grin2orange:It never did wear out but my barn burned down and that killed it.:msp_mad:

Can I get a Hell Yeah ! Last I checked, a creamsicle will melt inside of 15 min

Happy Friday

KJC

 

[3000 FPS]

The 260 back together

So I had this little 260 with a scored piston ring and cylinder. I was able to save the cylinder and replaced the piston and ring. I cannot help but modify these things alittle while I have them apart so I widened the exhaust alittle and of course the muff mod. The starter side cover had all the screws stripped out of it so I used some extra long machine screws which worked very well. When I first put it back together and started it I noticed the low side carb adjust had to be out around 2 1/2 turns, not normal to me. so I did a leak down test. I have a pressure bleeder I use for my cars and now I use it for my leak down testing and I have to say it works really well for this. Well anyways I find a leak not at the seals but when I put it back together I must not have used enough sealer on the crank case halves and found one side leaking. It was leaking 1 psi per minute, just enough to make the saw run poor. So back apart and do it right this time and saw runs great performs great. I really like these small poulans because they respond well to the mods I have been making to them. I took off the 18" bar and switched to 16". Here are a few pics.