Nik's Poulan Thread

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Poulan - - says you have a WT628 User Manuals | Poulan ... also says no rebuild kit.

So I suspect this is a trick question.


Welcome to walbro.com has the general service manuals here wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/

Welcome to walbro.com also has http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/ServiceManuals/CarburetorGuide.PDF

there is a WT-628-1 with a rebuild kit, you will have to figure out if it will fit or not.



I have run into that before where is says no kits available for that model carb. I then go on ebay and wouldn't you know it, there is a kit for the carb. They always have pictures of the diaphragm and of the gaskets so that you can compare and make sure the kit is correct.
 
I have run into that before where is says no kits available for that model carb. I then go on ebay and wouldn't you know it, there is a kit for the carb. They always have pictures of the diaphragm and of the gaskets so that you can compare and make sure the kit is correct.

yup, that's why I included the link with the rebuild kit for that family of carbs, anyhow.
 
Please give me a bit of a hand here guys ...

Picked up a Craftsman 1.8 today. Sears model number is 358.353630 and it has a Walbro WT carb on it. Near the WT on the body there are a '3' and 'C2.' I've looked at the application guide and have come up empty.

I'm pretty sure that K10-WAT or K20-WAT will most likely be the rebuild kit required. But where can I find out fer sure?

Thanks in advance!
 
Please give me a bit of a hand here guys ...

Picked up a Craftsman 1.8 today. Sears model number is 358.353630 and it has a Walbro WT carb on it. Near the WT on the body there are a '3' and 'C2.' I've looked at the application guide and have come up empty.

I'm pretty sure that K10-WAT or K20-WAT will most likely be the rebuild kit required. But where can I find out fer sure?

Thanks in advance!

Ted a K10-WAT kit should be what that saw needs. Do you have an ultrasonic cleaner? In my experience, WA/WT carbs that have been gummed up for a wile do well with a good soak in the USC. Don't use high pressure compressed air to blow the passages out (with the nozzle held against the carb). They have a non-serviceable check valve in the carb body that can get damaged/stuck with compressed air. They don't like to become un-stuck after that. Hold the nozzle a good 8-10 inches from the carb when you blast away. Some chemical cleaners are unkind to those check valves too.

Edit:

Looks like Mike beat me to it as I was typing too much. Might as well add that those carbs sometimes don't come back from the dead, no matter what you do. Used to happen to us at Sears. 95% of the 2-stroke equippment we worked on there had WA/WT Walbros...
 
Ted,


According to the info I have the Walbros for the Micros take a K10-WAT.


Mike

Ted a K10-WAT kit should be what that saw needs.

Edit:

Looks like Mike beat me to it as I was typing too much. Might as well add that those carbs sometimes don't come back from the dead, no matter what you do. Used to happen to us at Sears. 95% of the 2-stroke equippment we worked on there had WA/WT Walbros...


Mike & Aaron - Thanks a LOT ... yah, I have a USC and will give that guy a soak in mineral spirits. I saaw the mention of corrosive cleaners, so this time I'll avoid Sea Foam ..

I'll post the saw here after I get it running .... gonna look PUNY next to the 5.2! :laugh:
 
Mike & Aaron - Thanks a LOT ... yah, I have a USC and will give that guy a soak in mineral spirits. I saaw the mention of corrosive cleaners, so this time I'll avoid Sea Foam ..

I'll post the saw here after I get it running .... gonna look PUNY next to the 5.2! :laugh:

So send me that big Craftsman/Poulan and you won't have that problem!:jester:
 
Ok I think I need wt628 kit. Fuel lines on this thing were all decayed so I'm trying to figure out how to run new lines. It has a primer bulb. One should go from return line to bulb. Lower outlet on carb to bulb. Fuel filter line to upper fitting on carb. Sound right? Is there a way to know for sure?

Edit: ereplacement parts says carb is wt619 but part number 530071637 also refers to wt628. Is it same carb?
 
Last edited:
Ok I think I need wt628 kit. Fuel lines on this thing were all decayed so I'm trying to figure out how to run new lines. It has a primer bulb. One should go from return line to bulb. Lower outlet on carb to bulb. Fuel filter line to upper fitting on carb. Sound right? Is there a way to know for sure?

Edit: ereplacement parts says carb is wt619 but part number 530071637 also refers to wt628. Is it same carb?

If not, it should work. Install yourself a carb from a 60cc saw and save some trouble. Course there are a few mods that also need to be then done to the rest of the saw, but either carb will work for until you do the final swap/port/modify.
 
Until further notice, no Poulan chainsaw in the lime green color is to be referred to as a "green brick." Your cooperation in this important matter is appreciated.

Green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick.

I apologize, but I really had to get that out of my system ;) :laugh: :D.
 
CL find, "Wright" Poulan , similar to micro.....cheeep

Hopefully I don't get beat up for this too bad,

But there is a orange saw in North Columbia, Missouri. Someone should snatch it up. I don't
want it. Here is the link. Price is WRIGHT hahaha!

Two Chainsaws

Karl
 
Until further notice, no Poulan chainsaw in the lime green color is to be referred to as a "green brick." Your cooperation in this important matter is appreciated.

Green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick.

I apologize, but I really had to get that out of my system ;) :laugh: :D.


I can honestly say, I have never used those terms in the same sentence before!:mad: Piss's me off when I hear it!

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Until further notice, no Poulan chainsaw in the lime green color is to be referred to as a "green brick." Your cooperation in this important matter is appreciated.

Green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick, green brick.

I apologize, but I really had to get that out of my system ;) :laugh: :D.




MULE!!!!!


That's ONE!


Mike
 
306 tank line.

What size is the in-tank fuel line supposed to be on a 306A?

Line crumbled to crumbs and I can't get the top screw out. Buggared bad! May have to chuck it up in the drill press and drill the head off.

In the meantime, I'll resort to 'Fuel Line Trick #1'.

It pops on a prime but comp. feels way low.

attachment.php


Pumps 60 psi but it has a poorly installed spark plug Helicoil preventing an accurate reading.
 
What size is the in-tank fuel line supposed to be on a 306A?

Line crumbled to crumbs and I can't get the top screw out. Buggared bad! May have to chuck it up in the drill press and drill the head off.

In the meantime, I'll resort to 'Fuel Line Trick #1'.

It pops on a prime but comp. feels way low.

attachment.php


Pumps 60 psi but it has a poorly installed spark plug Helicoil preventing an accurate reading.

I brought in another 306A this afternoon. Haven't had time to take pics of it but should tomorrow. Haven't checked anything on it yet. Feels like it has enough compression, hope I can get it running without a complete rebuild.
 
I have an old 3700 that belonged to my uncle and he let me have it and my grand-father's(RIP) Mac 10-10. I dumped the old rancid mix out pour in some fresh stuff and away it went. I put a fresh Oregon Pro-Lite b/c on it and it sings. I cannot wait to get it into to some serious wood. R|uns like a top, idles beautifully.
ht1.jpg
jh88.jpg
test.jpg
huang10

For some reason your pics aren't showing on my PC.:mad: But congrats on the 3700. That is a great saw.
If the fuel that was in it, was that bad..I think I would replace the fuel line & filter also, at a minimum, possibly a carb rebuild too. Good luck with it!!! :msp_thumbsup:

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
What size is the in-tank fuel line supposed to be on a 306A?

Line crumbled to crumbs and I can't get the top screw out. Buggared bad! May have to chuck it up in the drill press and drill the head off.

In the meantime, I'll resort to 'Fuel Line Trick #1'.

It pops on a prime but comp. feels way low.

attachment.php


Pumps 60 psi but it has a poorly installed spark plug Helicoil preventing an accurate reading.

If I remember I used 3/16" inside the tank and 1/4 out side to the carb.

Question... most of the photos I have seen on here of others 306A's they have the stamped steel mufflers... mine has a cast aluminum muffler with no baffles and only a small spark screen and a single screw/bolt holding the top cover on.... is this a early model 306A?
 
If I remember I used 3/16" inside the tank and 1/4 out side to the carb.

Question... most of the photos I have seen on here of others 306A's they have the stamped steel mufflers... mine has a cast aluminum muffler with no baffles and only a small spark screen and a single screw/bolt holding the top cover on.... is this a early model 306A?

Most of the 306 Poulans that I've seen had the cast mufflers. I picked up one today that had the steel muffler. I thought the 245 had the stamped mufflers. They are interchangeable, however, except my Dayton version of the 245 has a cast muffler and it keeps coming loose no matter what I do to it. I'm thinking about wiring the bolt heads like they do with aviation bolts.
 
Most of the 306 Poulans that I've seen had the cast mufflers. I picked up one today that had the steel muffler. I thought the 245 had the stamped mufflers. They are interchangeable, however, except my Dayton version of the 245 has a cast muffler and it keeps coming loose no matter what I do to it. I'm thinking about wiring the bolt heads like they do with aviation bolts.
Try some purple locktite. I have had good luck using that with stubborn bolts that come loose.
 
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