Nik's Poulan Thread

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I have an old 3700 that belonged to my uncle and he let me have it and my grand-father's(RIP) Mac 10-10. I dumped the old rancid mix out pour in some fresh stuff and away it went. I put a fresh Oregon Pro-Lite b/c on it and it sings. I cannot wait to get it into to some serious wood. R|uns like a top, idles beautifully.
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huang10

It always amazes me how some of these old saws can sit forever and then with just new gas fire right up while others it seems like they sit over night and nothing. Congrats on the two saws.
 
For some reason your pics aren't showing on my PC.:mad: But congrats on the 3700. That is a great saw.
If the fuel that was in it, was that bad..I think I would replace the fuel line & filter also, at a minimum, possibly a carb rebuild too. Good luck with it!!! :msp_thumbsup:

:cheers:
Gregg,

Gregg that's an automated spambot. Don't click on links or image boxes in their posts. Bad things can happen. Sometimes there's ####ography (or the links take you to a #### site). They usually don't register and "post" until the wee hours of the night. This one's early. Always has a name/number combo as the username. Name's often female. They harvest bits of previous posts in threads, then repost those bits as their own with links, tabs, or pics added. Somebody posted that bit about the 3700 and 10-10 in this thread long ago. These spambots will redo the same thing night after night after night. They usually make about 8-10 posts. One of 'em likes to use "Pioneerguy600" in some of the posts it makes. Must've harvested Jerry's signature at some point. This one (that ALWAYS uses female names) always has "long" in at least one field in the "about me" section of their profile. Notice that they registered today. Six posts so far. All harvested/regurgitated crap. I usually see these posts after I get off work in the wee hours. We report them, and then the mods remove 'em. This is early for this one...

Date of Birth: April 5, 1990 (22).
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Most of the 306 Poulans that I've seen had the cast mufflers. I picked up one today that had the steel muffler. I thought the 245 had the stamped mufflers. They are interchangeable, however, except my Dayton version of the 245 has a cast muffler and it keeps coming loose no matter what I do to it. I'm thinking about wiring the bolt heads like they do with aviation bolts.

My 306A is a VERY late saw (with electronic ign and non-governed carb). It has a steel muffler like I've never seen on this 200/300 series. Flat smooth cover with no outlet. Five screws on the cover. The outlet holes are on the can itself, and blast forward onto the clutch cover. Has stained the cover up pretty good. My Dayton branded 245SA has the 'regular' stamped steel muffler that vents out of the cover. The muffler on my late 306A is larger than that muffler on my Dayton. Has a unique sound too.

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Does anyone have a SM that covers the 5400 that could email? I thought that someone had emailed one, but I'm not finding it my Documents, or any of the weird files the computer likes to create to confuse me.


Any thoughts on this deal? For a $20.00 price drop I'd take the old chain (being cheap isn't as easy as you might think :D).
POULAN CHAIN SAW 16 INCH BLADE RUNS GREAT NEW CHAIN AND TUNE UP
 
if the red backs off on ya', you did something special.

I already tried the other colors of Locktite and they didn't stay, so went with the red. I used to use the red to keep the flywheel nut on an old dirt bike I had..that was the only thing that would keep it on. It was threaded counterclockwise and had a very heavy flywheel. Ever hear of a Bultaco?
 
306a

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Here's a pic of the 306A I picked up yesterday, after a little cleaning. I painted the bar also after cleaning it and tightening up the starter.

Carb cleaning today, along with new fuel lines. Inlet lever was standing at about 45 degrees up and the needles were at about 2 turns each...I wonder if previous owner had any flooding problems?
 
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I already tried the other colors of Locktite and they didn't stay, so went with the red. I used to use the red to keep the flywheel nut on an old dirt bike I had..that was the only thing that would keep it on. It was threaded counterclockwise and had a very heavy flywheel. Ever hear of a Bultaco?

Yup, co-worker had one in the mid 70s. Competed in hillclimbs. Had it 'finger ported' by a fellow in Buckner, Mo..

Nasty and pipey thing. Power was all or nothing.

Purse-Sang. I have no idea how to actually spell it.
 
Yup, co-worker had one in the mid 70s. Competed in hillclimbs. Had it 'finger ported' by a fellow in Buckner, Mo..

Nasty and pipey thing. Power was all or nothing.

Purse-Sang. I have no idea how to actually spell it.

Pursang. That was their motocross version. Mine was a '72 model, been sitting in a garage for several years, everything backwards to us, brake pedal on left, shifter on the right. Trouble is, I owned a couple of bikes back then and the pedals were opposite of each other, it made for some interesting rides.
 
Suprisingly enuff it runs and cuts. Don't know why because of the shape it's in.


Not near as purdy as Junior's.

Carl you need to scare up a rear handle brace. Otherwise, you may crack/break your rear handle/carb box/tank casting. I like the sheet metal 'foot' that the prior owner installed under one bar nut to keep the saw from tipping forward under the weight of the bar once the lower front corner of the clutch cover broke off. A replacement clutch cover (and spikes if you can get a set) would be a good idea too. Glad it's back up and running despite the rough life it's had. That shows how robust this design is.:msp_thumbup:
 
Governor

Working on a 71A. New diaphragms and gaskets. Does it have a governor? Any special attention needed?
 
Working on a 71A. New diaphragms and gaskets. Does it have a governor? Any special attention needed?


I believe the governor is in the carb and if so it will probably help to block it off.
They get weak with age (like me I guess) and won't let the saw perform like it used to (Like me I guess).


Mike
 
I believe the governor is in the carb and if so it will probably help to block it off.
They get weak with age (like me I guess) and won't let the saw perform like it used to (Like me I guess).


Mike

Got any pics of where it is and how, best, to block it off?
 
Carl you need to scare up a rear handle brace. Otherwise, you may crack/break your rear handle/carb box/tank casting. I like the sheet metal 'foot' that the prior owner installed under one bar nut to keep the saw from tipping forward under the weight of the bar once the lower front corner of the clutch cover broke off. A replacement clutch cover (and spikes if you can get a set) would be a good idea too. Glad it's back up and running despite the rough life it's had. That shows how robust this design is.:msp_thumbup:

I'm keeping that 'crutch' no mater what. Gives it a Rat Saw look.

The missing brace, broken cover and a host of other problems are putting this one on the far, far back burner.

Spark plug colored up nice on the first big cookie. Hardly touched the carb..
 
Nice, I got one of those older Thirty-O-Six models also. I don't think they are rare, but yours is only the second one I have seen.:msp_thumbup:

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:cheers:
Gregg,

Mine was at you first poulan GTG, maybe ya had a few too many High Life's...:hmm3grin2orange: My dad's is a Thirty-0-Six also. Really not to rare at all, I've had a few Two-Fourty-Five's also. I'm pretty sure this is what all the cover's on these series of saw's read for a year or two when they came out with the auto oiler's.
 
Most of the 306 Poulans that I've seen had the cast mufflers. I picked up one today that had the steel muffler. I thought the 245 had the stamped mufflers. They are interchangeable, however, except my Dayton version of the 245 has a cast muffler and it keeps coming loose no matter what I do to it. I'm thinking about wiring the bolt heads like they do with aviation bolts.

Most of the early 306 did have a cast muffler, the later electronic ign models had a tin muffler with only one cover screw on it.

As far as I can tell, the 245 never came with a cast aluminum muffler. Either a early style tin with a two screw cover or a later one screw for the electronic version.

If someone put a cast muffler on your 245, the screws holding it to the cyl may now be too short as the cast muffler has a thicker flange on it. Make sure there also #12 screws and not have been changed to #10 screws. The screw holes in the cyl are actually quite deep and if you make sure the screw is long as can be and deep in the cyl, you rarely will have trouble keeping them tight.
 

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