Nik's Poulan Thread

[redunshee]

Seemed really high to me that is why I was worried and asked about the max rpm. My tack is the little orange sendec (I think it's called) from bailey's. It's always seemed to work alright...not the best out there by no means but seem's consistent with all the other saws out there I've used it on.:msp_confused:

One check I use is to see the color of the plug. Run saw at wot for a few seconds and hit the kill switch. If plug is a light brown you're good. If its whitish your too lean. Like I said I normally see about 11,000 as the tops out of the cut. The plug should be a good indicator.

Bob

 

[OhioGregg]

Seemed really high to me that is why I was worried and asked about the max rpm. My tack is the little orange sendec (I think it's called) from bailey's. It's always seemed to work alright...not the best out there by no means but seem's consistent with all the other saws out there I've used it on.:msp_confused:

John, The day before our first GTG, Steve (67Mustang) and I spent the day fiddling with some saws. He put his tach on my blue 4000. I don't remember what the rpm was, but it was scary high! :msp_scared: Really shocked me. I generally like to keep my saws slightly to the rich side. It always seemed to run great, maybe some saws just want to run a little faster than others. LOL

Seems to me when Brad ported the first 4000 he had, he was gettin rpms in the 12,000-12,500 range. As a rule, I would think that 10,500-11,000, like bob stated would be the norm.


Gregg,

 

[OhioGregg]

I need an IPL for this thing.

Got the fuel tank cover screw broke loose finally. What size is it? I want to have a new one on hand before I remove the lid to replace the pickup line.

Also need a handle brace and whatever gos on the underneath side (plastic or rubber insert).

Hey, I went out and scrounged over a parts saw, and think I have the parts your wanting. Do you want the tank cover also? or just the screw? You can have it all if ya want. I'll box em up and get it to the post office next week if ya want the stuff. Just PM me an address.

Gregg,

 

[Chris J.]

Hey, I went out and scrounged over a parts saw, and think I have the parts your wanting. Do you want the tank cover also? or just the screw? You can have it all if ya want. I'll box em up and get it to the post office next week if ya want the stuff. Just PM me an address.

Gregg,

I tried to send some Jonsered sharing rep, Gregg, but I need to spread it around.

And a huge thanks for the 5400 Service Manual :msp_thumbup:, and to the other folks who offered to EM one to me!

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

John, The day before our first GTG, Steve (67Mustang) and I spent the day fiddling with some saws. He put his tach on my blue 4000. I don't remember what the rpm was, but it was scary high! :msp_scared: Really shocked me. I generally like to keep my saws slightly to the rich side. It always seemed to run great, maybe some saws just want to run a little faster than others. LOL

Seems to me when Brad ported the first 4000 he had, he was gettin rpms in the 12,000-12,500 range. As a rule, I would think that 10,500-11,000, like bob stated would be the norm.


Gregg,

I agree with you and Bob, I just don't understand why this 4000 runs so rich at 11,000. I mean it's running RICH...4stroking big time in the cut. I'll just dial it in to run around 11,500-11,800 and check the plug color and if it's good I'll just hope for the best and hope it don't fly apart

 

[redunshee]

I agree with you and Bob, I just don't understand why this 4000 runs so rich at 11,000. I mean it's running RICH...4stroking big time in the cut. I'll just dial it in to run around 11,500-11,800 and check the plug color and if it's good I'll just hope for the best and hope it don't fly apart

Just a guess but have you checked height of the metering lever? If its too high you would be running rich. This would also cause saw to flood but maybe at wot it compensates for the extra fuel. Just a shot in the dark.
Bob

 

[HeRoze]

I need an IPL for this thing.
.

is this the right one? http://www.poulan.com/ddoc/POUI/POUI1977_USen/POUI1977_USen_63617_.pdf

 

[Showme]

Hey, I went out and scrounged over a parts saw, and think I have the parts your wanting. Do you want the tank cover also? or just the screw? You can have it all if ya want. I'll box em up and get it to the post office next week if ya want the stuff. Just PM me an address.

Gregg,

Gregg thanks for helping me with various parts. You've been a big help.

Gerry

 

[redunshee]

Poulan 3800 vs. Echo 660evl

Finally received my crank seals for the Echo and put saw back together. Starts and runs great. Comp is 165. Did a comparison with my modded 3800.(Opened up muffler and widened the exhaust port with a little widening of the intake manifold). The 3800 cuts much faster than the 660 and has higher rpm's. It has only one tank of fuel thru it and comp is 135. Not sure if it'll go much higher. I'm beginning to think that the vertical piston design of the newer saws make them rev higher than the horizontal P&C's of the older saws. Strictly an uneducated assumption. The Echo is a good saw and I noticed it has more torque than the 3800. You can really lean on it, however I'll take the 3800 over it for speed.
Bob

 

[OhioGregg]

Any of you guys that I have sent parts to, or whatever, are more than welcome.:msp_thumbup: There have been many here that have helped me out in the past, Mark, Mike, Steve, Bob, Nik, to name a few. Just passing it on, so to speak. If I can, I usually buy parts and stuff from the various online places. But, what ya need is not always available. Thats where the good guys in the Poulan family come through to help out.


Gregg,

 

[redunshee]

Uh.Gregg, do you have enough parts so I can build another 4000? Seriously though I agree with you. If I have extra parts you guys are welcome to them. In fact I have a 4018WM that I'm giving up on. Low compression with new piston, rings and like new cylinder. Let me know if someone wants to play with it. I have a 2375 and a Brad Snelling ported 4018WT that is wildso I don't needthe WM.
Bob

 

[OhioGregg]

Uh.Gregg, do you have enough parts so I can build another 4000? Seriously though I agree with you. If I have extra parts you guys are welcome to them. In fact I have a 4018WM that I'm giving up on. Low compression with new piston, rings and like new cylinder. Let me know if someone wants to play with it. I have a 2375 and a Brad Snelling ported 4018WT that is wildso I don't needthe WM.
Bob

LOL, You would think so Bob. I have four 4000 Poulans. But fortunately for me, they are all runners.
As a matter of fact, I don't have to many usable parts left for a 3400. I cobbled together a 3400 one time just out of leftover parts and what not. My version of Mike's "ugly bastard".:msp_tongue:

I been wanting for some odd reason, to redo my 2375 Wildthing. It ran fair, but has & had a bad cyl. & piston. Just never could get the motivation or want to spend the money for some new parts. Especially after Arrowheads Wild thing pretty much put all of us to shame. There was no way I could make one run like that screamer..LOL


Gregg,

 

[67 Mustang]

John, The day before our first GTG, Steve (67Mustang) and I spent the day fiddling with some saws. He put his tach on my blue 4000. I don't remember what the rpm was, but it was scary high! :msp_scared: Really shocked me. I generally like to keep my saws slightly to the rich side. It always seemed to run great, maybe some saws just want to run a little faster than others. LOL

Seems to me when Brad ported the first 4000 he had, he was gettin rpms in the 12,000-12,500 range. As a rule, I would think that 10,500-11,000, like bob stated would be the norm.


Gregg,

Just for the sake info, I have a Tech-Tac 20K. I've got a Craftsman 3.7 (3700) that likes to run at 12K. Doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason for rpm's sometimes. Sort of like to adjust them where they like to run, but it is worry-some that is either difficult or expensive to get a top end for. I like to use all the resources available to me to set the rpm's which including by ear, tach and manufacturer's recommendation if available. Also, as Bob mentioned, color of the plug can give you another clue.

 

[rms61moparman]

They can be worrisome but, you have to let them run where THEY want to run!!!
I have some that won't turn 11,500 and they run great, I also have some that want to turn 13,000 and they run great.
No rhyme or reason they just like that rpm.


Mike

 

[joe25DA]

Well, I got a new Poulan coming in soon. No just new to me either, its newer in years than my Dolmar PS 540 I bought new in '06. Paid some for it but Ive wanted one for a while. Justifying the purchase by selling my just finished 034 :msp_thumbup:

 

[rms61moparman]

Well, I got a new Poulan coming in soon. No just new to me either, its newer in years than my Dolmar PS 540 I bought new in '06. Paid some for it but Ive wanted one for a while. Justifying the purchase by selling my just finished 034 :msp_thumbup:

AND?????

What kind of guy would do that to his friends!!!:msp_mad:


Mike

 

[3000 FPS]

Well, I got a new Poulan coming in soon. No just new to me either, its newer in years than my Dolmar PS 540 I bought new in '06. Paid some for it but Ive wanted one for a while. Justifying the purchase by selling my just finished 034 :msp_thumbup:

Well come on what is it?

 

[joe25DA]

haha Since I have to wait we all do! And besides, Im superstitious if I tell my buddies here what saw it is it will probably get lost in the mail!

 

[Eccentric]

Mark have you ever seen a five screw front outlet steel 200/300 series muffler like what is on my late electronic ign 306A?

No I'm not sure that I have. It looks like a temperature limiting muffler like the offered on the 25's etc. Left coast saw?

I would be finding another muffler for it myself....

Yep. Came from a small old shop in the Sacramento, Ca area. I think I will scare up a side outlet muffler for it and put this one aside. The muffler's in perfect shape. No rust. THICK/HEAVY steel (much heavier than the tin muffler on my Dayton 245SA). It sure burns up the clutch cover though. I have a spare 245A cover that I'll put a 306A decal on and run on this saw once I get a side outlet muffler. Until then, I'll run it with the muffler (and clutch cover) that it has now.

First thing that comes to my mind Aaron is forest service, it being Kalifornia and all.

Could very well be Jeff. CDF headquarters is in Sacramento, where this saw came from (and where the state surplus auctions are). This saw would have had to have spent its service life on a shelf however, as it doesn't have that 'beat' look to it. My PM700 used to be a local county saw, and it is in similar shape.........so it is possible. Hope I can find an IPL for this very late 306A. That might answer a few questions.

Two more clues to the puzzle. It may very well be surplus, as a newer AV model would have been my choice, being a county saw isn't a production model, and can be set down at any (or most of the) time. Wonder if there is anything in that muffler spec list from the forest service?

Look what I found while searching for a Poulan muffler on feebay. Here's our answer. Mark was right on, as usual...

New california temp limiting muffler: poulan 530069036 | eBay

 

[homelitejim]

Well, I got a new Poulan coming in soon. No just new to me either, its newer in years than my Dolmar PS 540 I bought new in '06. Paid some for it but Ive wanted one for a while. Justifying the purchase by selling my just finished 034 :msp_thumbup:

I am going to say a brand spanking new 2050, with all the great reviews I have been eyeballing one myself, though I am liking the craftsman all black version.