Nik's Poulan Thread

[joe25DA]

Just picked this up for $20 today. Fired cold on third pull on choke, started on next pull with choke off, idled great, revved well and held consistent RPM at idle and WOT, no dead zone on acceleration. Chain stopped immediately when dropping to idle, so clutch is in great shape. Manual oiler fully functional. Even some life left in the chain.

I guess I thought when I heard about it that, as a 3.7 hp it'd be a Poulan 3700, but is it older than that series? Doesn't look quite right to me for a 3700. Sure has been well cared for.

That there is a ROPER 3.7.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Just throwing this out there .... Did Poulan ever make saws for McCulloch? I saw a Mac the other day I coulda sworn was a rebadged Micro ..

Ted, its obvious your job does not require random drug testing isnt it? :hmm3grin2orange:

Mac would have been better off if they would have bought rebadged Micro's instead of producing there own little demon possesed Mini Macs.

 

[Modifiedmark]

When you guys run the .325 on the pp335 and 330 do ya run 7 or 8 pin rim?

The 335 came with a .325x7 from the factory and I never tried a 8 on it but never thought I had any reason to either. Its probably best that way unless you go to a short bar and soft wood which I know you dont cut much of.

The 330 came with a 3/8X7 and I have no doubt it would work just as well with a .325x8 since both sprockets are virtually the same dia. I tested both on my PP365 and seen no big difference between them.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Knew it would get your attention.:msp_tongue:

This is the one I mentioned two months ago. Monster compression, stinky fuel and needs a throttle trigger.

Got four other saws with it.

I always keep my eyes open for the early 200 series, they were mostly only made for 2 years and dont show up often.

I have a 203 and I'm not sure what the difference between them was.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

That there is a ROPER 3.7.

Roper also makes a saw that looks a little like a 25 series saw. I thought it was an older Poulan for awhile..

 

[StihlyinEly]

That there is a ROPER 3.7.

Any idea which model? The Acres site lists several Ropers. Would like to know which model so I can investigate some history. And of course I'll not continue discussing a non Poulan saw on the Poulan thread after that.

 

[Showme]

4000 seal replacement

OK, a vacuum test seems to indicate a leak (tried both vacuum/pressure) so I'm guessing it's seals on the 4000. It runs and idles fine but dies when turned to either side. I've got a set of seals on hand and a Lisle seal puller but I'm a little apprehensive about the replacement procedure. Any pointers would be appreciated as I've not done this before. Especially interested in comments about removing flywheel.

Thanks,

Gerry

 

[Showme]

Craftsman 3.7

Received a little eBay Craftsman 3.7 today and I just wondered if they all have the stupid little chain sharpening device or not?

 

[Modifiedmark]

OK, a vacuum test seems to indicate a leak (tried both vacuum/pressure) so I'm guessing it's seals on the 4000. It runs and idles fine but dies when turned to either side. I've got a set of seals on hand but I'm a little apprehensive about the replacement procedure. Any pointers would be appreciated as I've not done this before.

Thanks,

Gerry

Not saying you do not have a seal leak but to do a really accurate vac or pressure test on that series of saws you really need to make a block off for the oiler as well since it is impulse driven from the crankcase.


If your apprehensive about changing them maybe you should seek some local help as there not the easiest to remove because of there a small outside dia compared to the inside dia.

The case has a very sharp edge on the seal bore which makes it critical to get them started right and you have to make sure you have a seal lip protector of some sort to protect the seal lip from flipping on installation as well.

 

[OhioGregg]

Received a little eBay Craftsman 3.7 today and I just wondered if they all have the stupid little chain sharpening device or not?

A little ebay Craftsman 3.7? I didn't know they made big 3.7's and little ones.
No, not all had the Power Sharp. That was an option on many older Poulans though.


Gregg,

 

[Heckel]

i have the ipl list given to me by mark and mine says oil pump asembly glad its not the check valve... i will take a pic of it and post it,,,,thats part 17 i think its also refered to as a metering body.. i just try to call the part what its listed as so there is no confusion... and yea you can only use one LMAO!i have only had one saw where the pump asembly was bad its always been the check valve and it seems like those filters are always toast....what did you pay for the 2 filters? i have been makin mine....

Well, I got it all back together, new oil line, oil filter, plug, air filter, gas cap, bushings etc, and I replaced the spark plug cover and connection. When I pulled the connector and boot off of the plug, it came apart. I fueled her up, cranked her up, adjustd the carb. (That took a while to get it right) and she runs good. Oiling the chain but not very much oil. Is there an adjustment for this somewhere?

 

[OhioGregg]

OK, a vacuum test seems to indicate a leak (tried both vacuum/pressure) so I'm guessing it's seals on the 4000. It runs and idles fine but dies when turned to either side. I've got a set of seals on hand and a Lisle seal puller but I'm a little apprehensive about the replacement procedure. Any pointers would be appreciated as I've not done this before. Especially interested in comments about removing flywheel.

Thanks,

Gerry

Gerry, ModifiedMark has given you some great advice on them. You would think as many of this series of saws that I have, I could answer that, but can't. LOL The few that I have done, was always with the case split, makes the task a little easier. But still a little tedious, need to get them started straight.


Gregg,

 

[Heckel]

not sure i thought it kept it from pissing oil all ofer the case after you put her up????? that and the lil pin up by the oil out let... i thought that was for high pressure and the bottom one was for after you shut it off????? ya got me..... im sure some of the other fellows know for sure.... I just tore the washing machine apart and fixed it mama is on the 2nd load lord please let it not leak water every where LMAO!!!! is it to early for beer?????

Well, I got it all back together, new oil line, oil filter, plug, air filter, gas cap, bushings etc, and I replaced the spark plug cover and connection. When I pulled the connector and boot off of the plug, it came apart. I fueled her up, cranked her up, adjustd the carb. (That took a while to get it right) and she runs good. Oiling the chain but not very much oil. Is there an adjustment for this somewhere?

 

[Showme]

Not saying you do not have a seal leak but to do a really accurate vac or pressure test on that series of saws you really need to make a block off for the oiler as well since it is impulse driven from the crankcase.


If your apprehensive about changing them maybe you should seek some local help as there not the easiest to remove because of there a small outside dia compared to the inside dia.

The case has a very sharp edge on the seal bore which makes it critical to get them started right and you have to make sure you have a seal lip protector of some sort to protect the seal lip from flipping on installation as well.

Well thank you very much for the help. Sounds like I'm screwed though because I know of no one local that can help and I guess it's above my pay grade. If you know of anybody to recommend that could fix it I would appreciate a PM.

Thanks,

Gerry

 

[Showme]

Gerry, ModifiedMark has given you some great advice on them. You would think as many of this series of saws that I have, I could answer that, but can't. LOL The few that I have done, was always with the case split, makes the task a little easier. But still a little tedious, need to get them started straight.


Gregg,

Thanks Gregg. I don't really like the little knob but the saw is really clean.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Gerry, ModifiedMark has given you some great advice on them. You would think as many of this series of saws that I have, I could answer that, but can't. LOL The few that I have done, was always with the case split, makes the task a little easier. But still a little tedious, need to get them started straight.


Gregg,

Gregg, if you ever have one split again, countersink the outside edge of the crank bore and the seals will go in much eaiser.

 

[OhioGregg]

Gregg, if you ever have one split again, countersink the outside edge of the crank bore and the seals will go in much eaiser.

LOL, Glad you posted that Mark! I thought about that after I made that last post. Remember you had posted a pic one time of beveling the edge. That would certainly make the job less fussy & frustrating, getting them started straight.


Gregg,

 

[Showme]

Mark, that's good information, maybe I'll get to that point some day. I'm kind of concentrating on this series of saws because I'm slowly learning them and I like them. I've got a bunch of good running newer saws but I just kind of like the old green saws.

 

[67L36Driver]

Well thank you very much for the help. Sounds like I'm screwed though because I know of no one local that can help and I guess it's above my pay grade. If you know of anybody to recommend that could fix it I would appreciate a PM.

Thanks,

Gerry

Well, where the heck is Wildwood?

If it's close enuff I be over in the morning.:msp_tongue:

 

[Showme]

Well it's not really close enough unless you leave right now. I'm over by St. Louis.