Nik's Poulan Thread

[Modifiedmark]

Well thank you very much for the help. Sounds like I'm screwed though because I know of no one local that can help and I guess it's above my pay grade. If you know of anybody to recommend that could fix it I would appreciate a PM.

Thanks,

Gerry

Listen, I'm not saying that you cannot do it yourself, mostly saying to be careful when pulling the old seals. I drill seals alot in order to put a sheet metal screw into so you have something to pull the old seal with but like I said the seals on these are thin so theres not much room for error on these ones.

You cannot just go digging them out with a pick or screwdriver as you do not want to gouge the case or the new seal will leak around the seal itself after your done.

You seemed uncomfortable in your abilities by the way you asked the question, so I was just pointing out the hazards.

 

[67L36Driver]

Well it's not really close enough unless you leave right now. I'm over by St. Louis.

Should have known but, St. Louis county has so many hamlets.

My personal best from St. Joseph to Oakville is 4 hr. 20 min.. Driving my vet with radar detector and CB radio. That was back in '77 or so. Now-a-days, a potty break every hr., 65 in the right lane.

The 202 cranked 130 psi dry and 160 with a shot of WD-40. Got him to snarl with a shot of Gumout. Cloths pin as a high speed idle latch. He has a comp. release.

 

[HeRoze]

this guy got aggressive with the screws, please re-read Mark's comments on the thin nature of the ones you are dealing with. but as a general idea. and the bearing will have bits in them after drilling the seals, too.

 

[Showme]

Listen, I'm not saying that you cannot do it yourself, mostly saying to be careful when pulling the old seals. I drill seals alot in order to put a sheet metal screw into so you have something to pull the old seal with but like I said the seals on these are thin so theres not much room for error on these ones.

You cannot just go digging them out with a pick or screwdriver as you do not want to gouge the case or the new seal will leak around the seal itself after your done.

You seemed uncomfortable in your abilities by the way you asked the question, so I was just pointing out the hazards.

Thanks for the info. I would really like to get it going but I might set it on the shelf for awhile.

 

[Chris J.]

Any idea which model? The Acres site lists several Ropers. Would like to know which model so I can investigate some history. And of course I'll not continue discussing a non Poulan saw on the Poulan thread after that.

I have no idea on the Roper model #, but your 3.7 appears to be a later 'streamlined' model, the early ones were 'boxy.' There have been AS threads on that model. And with all due respect to Mike Acres & his crew, the Roper info on CSCC pretty much sucks.

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&output....,cf.osb&fp=45e2c0b8d52a4e80&biw=1093&bih=481

 

[redunshee]

Thanks for the info. I would really like to get it going but I might set it on the shelf for awhile.

If you have the Lisle puller you may want to grind one of the bits narrower. This will make it easier to slip into the seal . I'm assuming you're working on a 3400/3700 as the seal is so small its difficult to use a sheet metal screw. Take your time and pry it up with the Lisle and it will pop out eventually. If the metal lip turns up just move to another spot on the seal. When installing the seals you will need to take some aluminum foil and wrap it around the clutch side crank shaft. Your goal is to cover up the stepup in the crankshaft. Wrap that area with the foil so there is a smooth transition from the narrower part of the crank to the wider part. You may want to apply some grease to everything to enable the seal to slip on w/o turning up the inner rubber lip of the seal. Actually I grease both sides of the crankshaft when installing the seals. I also like to put a thin layer of sealant on the outside edge of the seal. I use Dirko Ht.
Like Mark and Gregg stated make sure the seal starts in straight and gently tap seal until its flush the the saw or a little inside(very very little). I use the back of a 1/2 in drive deep socket to drive it in. I have one that I ground out the 1/2 drive so it fits over the crankshaft.
Good luck.
Bob

 

[Eccentric]

Should have known but, St. Louis county has so many hamlets.

My personal best from St. Joseph to Oakville is 4 hr. 20 min.. Driving my vet with radar detector and CB radio. That was back in '77 or so. Now-a-days, a potty break every hr., 65 in the right lane.

The 202 cranked 130 psi dry and 160 with a shot of WD-40. Got him to snarl with a shot of Gumout. Cloths pin as a high speed idle latch. He has a comp. release.

Glad to hear it has good compression and spark. Now PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't EVER use Gumout or any other carb/brake cleaner (or starting fluid) to prime a 2-stroke engine. Use some 2-stroke mix in a spray bottle instead. Not only does the Gumout NOT have ANY lube in it (remember the oil in the fuel is what keeps these engines alive), it will also STRIP any residual oil in there. You're making it run DRY. Also is HELL on the crank seals too. Sorry fer shouting. I don't want to see you (or anybody else) ruin any saw engines..................especially old 200/300 series Poulans that blow 130 PSI of compression!!!

 

[Showme]

If you have the Lisle puller you may want to grind one of the bits narrower. This will make it easier to slip into the seal . I'm assuming you're working on a 3400/3700 as the seal is so small its difficult to use a sheet metal screw. Take your time and pry it up with the Lisle and it will pop out eventually. If the metal lip turns up just move to another spot on the seal. When installing the seals you will need to take some aluminum foil and wrap it around the clutch side crank shaft. Your goal is to cover up the stepup in the crankshaft. Wrap that area with the foil so there is a smooth transition from the narrower part of the crank to the wider part. You may want to apply some grease to everything to enable the seal to slip on w/o turning up the inner rubber lip of the seal. Actually I grease both sides of the crankshaft when installing the seals. I also like to put a thin layer of sealant on the outside edge of the seal. I use Dirko Ht.
Like Mark and Gregg stated make sure the seal starts in straight and gently tap seal until its flush the the saw or a little inside(very very little). I use the back of a 1/2 in drive deep socket to drive it in. I have one that I ground out the 1/2 drive so it fits over the crankshaft.
Good luck.
Bob

Thank you for your very helpful response. The tip about wrapping with aluminum foil I would have never thought of.

Thanks,

Gerry

 

[3000 FPS]

Need a piece of junk magnesium.

Ok. I have a Poulan 335 and a J-red 670 that both have cracks in the case or clutch cover. I have the Tig welder, the correct magnesium rod, and the experience with aluminum. What I do not have a junk piece of magnesium from a saw that I can practice on before I do the clutch cover first. If any one has just some junk pieces that are willing to send me I will gladly pay for the shipping and would so be inclined to return the favor in the future when I become proficient at this. I choose the Poulan forum because it just seems like a great bunch of guys here. Please shoot me a PM if you are interested.

Roger.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thank you for your very helpful response. The tip about wrapping with aluminum foil I would have never thought of.

Thanks,

Gerry

Gerry, I prefer something a little thicker then aluminum foil and use a piece of beer can. That works well and gives me a excuse to empty a beer can at the same time.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Ok. I have a Poulan 335 and a J-red 670 that both have cracks in the case or clutch cover. I have the mig welder, the correct magnesium rod, and the experience with aluminum. What I do not have a junk piece of magnesium from a saw that I can practice on before I do the clutch cover first. If any one has just some junk pieces that are willing to send me I will gladly pay for the shipping and would so be inclined to return the favor in the future when I become proficient at this. I choose the Poulan forum because it just seems like a great bunch of guys here. Please shoot me a PM if you are interested.

Roger.

I was not aware there was a magnesium wire for a mig machine, just filler wire for TIG.

I have some junk pieces here but who knows when I will have time to ship them.

 

[redunshee]

Gerry, I prefer something a little thicker then aluminum foil and use a piece of beer can. That works well and gives me a excuse to empty a beer can at the same time.

Good point Mark. I don't use foil as NIk was kind enough to send me a piece he made a couple years ago. I thought foil would work but the beer can cut to fit around the crank makes a lot of sense.

Bob

 

[redunshee]

I was not aware there was a magnesium wire for a mig machine, just filler wire for TIG.

I have some junk pieces here but who knows when I will have time to ship them.

Are 3400 cases magnesium? If so I can send him a half or two halves.
Bob

 

[3000 FPS]

I was not aware there was a magnesium wire for a mig machine, just filler wire for TIG.

I have some junk pieces here but who knows when I will have time to ship them.

Did I say Mig stupid me. I meant Tig. I have a miller Tig welder that I have been using for quite some time now.
Just a broken piece from a saw will work. Just so I can practice making a bead on the magnesium. I really do not think it is going to be that hard but practice make perfect. If you have something let me know. If not I will keep looking.

Roger.

 

[3000 FPS]

Are 3400 cases magnesium? If so I can send him a half or two halves.
Bob

According to acres site they are Die Cast magnesium. That would be just what I am looking for. Only a half case is all I need. PM me or let me know and I will PM you.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Any idea which model? The Acres site lists several Ropers. Would like to know which model so I can investigate some history. And of course I'll not continue discussing a non Poulan saw on the Poulan thread after that.

that is a (wait i gotta look at my sig line) 917.353770

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Pp180

okay guys i gotta problem with this little PP180 that is defying me. i know i should be able to figure this out but i am now having to resort to "asking for directions" <<gasp>>
- i have taken this saw apart (not disassembled the motor),
- cleaned it up real nice,
- replaced spark plug
- rebuilt the carb, Walbro WT20, by cleaning with carb cleaner (about 3 times), cleaning in the USC (twice), and using lots of compressed air,
- taken it apart for "what-if" inspections 3 - 4 times,
- took it apart again and replaced the welch plugs just in case the passages were blocked,
- bought a walbro "w" gauge so i'm sure about the metering adjustment,
- replaced filter,
- replaced fuel line twice (don't think i like that tygon, too flimsy and too easily kinked),
- adjusted H and L needles to 3/4, 1, 1-1/4, 1-1/2 turns out,
- fueled it up, primed the carb and started.

runs like a scalded dog for about 5 seconds and dies, pull the rope 4 times it starts again and dies after 5 seconds, repeat ad nauseum. i can see the fuel in the line to the carb. i can see the fuel spitting into the throat of the carb. saw has seemingly good compression (don't have a gauge yet but pull effort compares to my 1800 and 2000), p&c both look good through the carb and exhaust holes.

this saw is taking way too much of my time. what am i missing?
any questions, suggestions, or even better, a solution would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BroncoRN]

okay guys i gotta problem with this little PP180 that is defying me. i know i should be able to figure this out but i am now having to resort to "asking for directions" <<gasp>>
- i have taken this saw apart (not disassembled the motor),
- cleaned it up real nice,
- replaced spark plug
- rebuilt the carb, Walbro WT20, by cleaning with carb cleaner (about 3 times) and cleaning in the USC (twice),
- taken it apart for "what-if" inspections 3 - 4 times,
- took it apart again and replaced the welch plugs just in case the passages were blocked,
- bought a walbro "w" gauge so i'm sure about the metering adjustment,
- replaced filter,
- replaced fuel line twice (don't think i like that tygon, too flimsy and too easily kinked),
- adjusted H and L needles to 3/4, 1, 1-1/4, 1-1/2 turns out,
- fueled it up, primed the carb and started.

runs like a scalded dog for about 5 seconds and dies, pull the rope 4 times it starts again and dies after 5 seconds, repeat ad nauseum. i can see the fuel in the line to the carb. i can see the fuel spitting into the throat of the carb. saw has seemingly good compression (don't have a gauge yet but pull effort compares to my 1800 and 2000), p&c both look good through the carb and exhaust holes.

this saw is taking way too much of my time. what am i missing?
any questions, suggestions, or even better, a solution would be greatly appreciated.

Every time I've had something like that happen its an air leak. Clean that plug off and get it running for that seconds and then check the plug after it dies.

 

[rms61moparman]

okay guys i gotta problem with this little PP180 that is defying me. i know i should be able to figure this out but i am now having to resort to "asking for directions" <<gasp>>
- i have taken this saw apart (not disassembled the motor),
- cleaned it up real nice,
- replaced spark plug
- rebuilt the carb, Walbro WT20, by cleaning with carb cleaner (about 3 times), cleaning in the USC (twice), and using lots of compressed air,
- taken it apart for "what-if" inspections 3 - 4 times,
- took it apart again and replaced the welch plugs just in case the passages were blocked,
- bought a walbro "w" gauge so i'm sure about the metering adjustment,
- replaced filter,
- replaced fuel line twice (don't think i like that tygon, too flimsy and too easily kinked),
- adjusted H and L needles to 3/4, 1, 1-1/4, 1-1/2 turns out,
- fueled it up, primed the carb and started.

runs like a scalded dog for about 5 seconds and dies, pull the rope 4 times it starts again and dies after 5 seconds, repeat ad nauseum. i can see the fuel in the line to the carb. i can see the fuel spitting into the throat of the carb. saw has seemingly good compression (don't have a gauge yet but pull effort compares to my 1800 and 2000), p&c both look good through the carb and exhaust holes.

this saw is taking way too much of my time. what am i missing?
any questions, suggestions, or even better, a solution would be greatly appreciated.

I'm glad it's not just me!!!


I have a 2000 here that kicked my dealers butt, so he pawned it off on me and it has given me FITS!!!

The little scoundrel will start and run like a new saw for about 3 cuts then it falls on its face and won't accelerate enough to spin the chain.
If it dies it will start back up immediately but will NOT accelerate.
I've done EVERYTHING that I can possibly think of that might even remotely cause this and I'm totally at a loss.
I guess I'll start on the things that can't possibly cause it next!!!:msp_angry:


Mike

 

[redunshee]

okay guys i gotta problem with this little PP180 that is defying me. i know i should be able to figure this out but i am now having to resort to "asking for directions" <<gasp>>
- i have taken this saw apart (not disassembled the motor),
- cleaned it up real nice,
- replaced spark plug
- rebuilt the carb, Walbro WT20, by cleaning with carb cleaner (about 3 times), cleaning in the USC (twice), and using lots of compressed air,
- taken it apart for "what-if" inspections 3 - 4 times,
- took it apart again and replaced the welch plugs just in case the passages were blocked,
- bought a walbro "w" gauge so i'm sure about the metering adjustment,
- replaced filter,
- replaced fuel line twice (don't think i like that tygon, too flimsy and too easily kinked),
- adjusted H and L needles to 3/4, 1, 1-1/4, 1-1/2 turns out,
- fueled it up, primed the carb and started.

runs like a scalded dog for about 5 seconds and dies, pull the rope 4 times it starts again and dies after 5 seconds, repeat ad nauseum. i can see the fuel in the line to the carb. i can see the fuel spitting into the throat of the carb. saw has seemingly good compression (don't have a gauge yet but pull effort compares to my 1800 and 2000), p&c both look good through the carb and exhaust holes.

this saw is taking way too much of my time. what am i missing?
any questions, suggestions, or even better, a solution would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like a fuel issue to me. My 4018 was similar. While it was running at wot I was able to adjust the Lo needle until it stayed running. I then adjusted the Hi accordingly. Ended up with almost 2 turns open on the Lo. Not saying your saw is similar but if you tried everything else try 2 turns open. If saw was hot I'd say there was a venting issue.
Maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in or have other suggestions.
Bob