Nik's Poulan Thread

[a. palmer jr.]

I am a newbe to the forrum.
A buddy of mine gave me a 306 A and I loaned it to a buddy of mine. It didn't run 2 good so being the good friend that he is he decided to fix it. He took carb apart and cleaned it and then decided to adjust it. Well it don't even run now. I think th carb cleaner made the diaphram not work and it is out of adjutment. I found a kit from the oem parts store.com It is a tilstson HS59A. Can anyone walk me through what I need to do. The gas lines are hard and I will replace it before I go working on carb. The only adjustment screws I can find is the ones above the pull rope. They are not good but not my problem. It did run before. It has the cast iron muffler with 1 bolt so sounds like an electronic ignition. Thanks for the look and thanks even more if you help.

You can try turning both of them all the way in until lightly seated and then turn them both out about 1 1/8 turn and see if it'll start.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Will a Homelite bar fit a Poulan? Looking for one for my 7700, and Ric, at Loggertown, says he has a lot of Homelite bars, but none for Poulans. Is there a certain bar to look for?

Yes in fact that is the bar your looking for. The 7700 has .375 bar studs.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

cool you used the Ams bar oil when running hot saws? i like it as is thinner than reg bar oil but is vary tacky.

yes in stock appearing race saws and hotsaws.

 

[hemiyota]

Yes in fact that is the bar your looking for. The 7700 has .375 bar studs.

Great! He says he has lots of Homelite bars, so, I'll see if he has a 36 incher......thanks!!

 

[jerrycmorrow]

okay guys i gotta problem with this little PP180 that is defying me. i know i should be able to figure this out but i am now having to resort to "asking for directions" <<gasp>>
- i have taken this saw apart (not disassembled the motor),
- cleaned it up real nice,
- replaced spark plug
- rebuilt the carb, Walbro WT20, by cleaning with carb cleaner (about 3 times), cleaning in the USC (twice), and using lots of compressed air,
- taken it apart for "what-if" inspections 3 - 4 times,
- took it apart again and replaced the welch plugs just in case the passages were blocked,
- bought a walbro "w" gauge so i'm sure about the metering adjustment,
- replaced filter,
- replaced fuel line twice (don't think i like that tygon, too flimsy and too easily kinked),
- adjusted H and L needles to 3/4, 1, 1-1/4, 1-1/2 turns out,
- fueled it up, primed the carb and started.

runs like a scalded dog for about 5 seconds and dies, pull the rope 4 times it starts again and dies after 5 seconds, repeat ad nauseum. i can see the fuel in the line to the carb. i can see the fuel spitting into the throat of the carb. saw has seemingly good compression (don't have a gauge yet but pull effort compares to my 1800 and 2000), p&c both look good through the carb and exhaust holes.

this saw is taking way too much of my time. what am i missing?
any questions, suggestions, or even better, a solution would be greatly appreciated.

bump. anyone else got any ideas?

 

[8433jeff]

bump. anyone else got any ideas?

Jerry, keep turning them needles out. Don't be surprised if you end up at 3-3 1/2 out.

 

[srcarr52]

Did you replace the needle? It if runs for 5 seconds and dies it may be pushing extra fuel in once it builds up fuel pressure.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

My 306 started running really badly today, ran real lean, wouldn't idle, kept having to choke it. Took the gas cap off and stuck my finger in the fuel to see if I could find the fuel line, I did and it was disconnected at both ends! Never had one do that before. A new fuel line and it purrs like a kitten, I guess more like a mountain lion...

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Did you replace the needle? It if runs for 5 seconds and dies it may be pushing extra fuel in once it builds up fuel pressure.

Is that one of the saws that has a primer bulb? If it is, that may be your problem, not venting the tank enough. I've had so many of them this year that I've been just bypassing them and making my own vent for the tank, kinda like the old 3400 Poulans, running just the fuel line from the tank to the carb and blocking off all the rest. H and L screws usually about 2 turns.

 

[Eccentric]

Great! He says he has lots of Homelite bars, so, I'll see if he has a 36 incher......thanks!!

If you don't mind, please let me know if he has any of those D096/D196/UXL/TXL Homelite bars in the 36-48" lengths. Got a buddy who's looking for one for his 750.



Poulan Content.
Got my 306A all squared away yesterday. Replaced the silly plastic weed-eater pull handle and thin starter cord with a propper handle and a length of #5 cord. The thin cord was just knotted in the pully. Used a nail to make a pin for the #5 cord (like it's supposed to be). Took it with my cutting yesterday. Only made a couple cuts with it, but it's a STRONG runner. Really like this saw, and am looking forward to having my Dayton badged 245SA in the working stable too. Mark will a 200/300 series Poulan propperly tension and oil a UXL/TXL bar so long as I have the 'S' spacer on it? I have a 24" UXL/TXL sprocket nose from a Homelite that I'd like to run on the Dayton at some point.

 

[Modifiedmark]

If you don't mind, please let me know if he has any of those D096/D196/UXL/TXL Homelite bars in the 36-48" lengths. Got a buddy who's looking for one for his 750.



Poulan Content.
Got my 306A all squared away yesterday. Replaced the silly plastic weed-eater pull handle and thin starter cord with a propper handle and a length of #5 cord. The thin cord was just knotted in the pully. Used a nail to make a pin for the #5 cord (like it's supposed to be). Took it with my cutting yesterday. Only made a couple cuts with it, but it's a STRONG runner. Really like this saw, and am looking forward to having my Dayton badged 245SA in the working stable too. Mark will a 200/300 series Poulan propperly tension and oil a UXL/TXL bar so long as I have the 'S' spacer on it? I have a 24" UXL/TXL sprocket nose from a Homelite that I'd like to run on the Dayton at some point.

UXL, yes. I cannot place a TXL though....

 

[Eccentric]

UXL, yes. I cannot place a TXL though....

Thanks Mark. Acres lists both UXL and TXL as the Windsor codes for the Home XL mount bars.

Bar Mount Pattern: 14

 

[joe25DA]

bump. anyone else got any ideas?

Hows your spark? Compression? a

 

[leecopland]

bump. anyone else got any ideas?

I have two saws with Walbro WT carb and I'm have trouble with both of them. Someone else said that the WT are sometimes hard to bring back from the dead despite carb kits, cleaning et al.

Lee

 

[sac]

If you don't mind, please let me know if he has any of those D096/D196/UXL/TXL Homelite bars in the 36-48" lengths. Got a buddy who's looking for one for his 750.



Poulan Content.
Got my 306A all squared away yesterday. Replaced the silly plastic weed-eater pull handle and thin starter cord with a propper handle and a length of #5 cord. The thin cord was just knotted in the pully. Used a nail to make a pin for the #5 cord (like it's supposed to be). Took it with my cutting yesterday. Only made a couple cuts with it, but it's a STRONG runner. Really like this saw, and am looking forward to having my Dayton badged 245SA in the working stable too. Mark will a 200/300 series Poulan propperly tension and oil a UXL/TXL bar so long as I have the 'S' spacer on it? I have a 24" UXL/TXL sprocket nose from a Homelite that I'd like to run on the Dayton at some point.

I bet you you have a nice bar for that Dayton:msp_thumbup:

 

[Eccentric]

I bet you you have a nice bar for that Dayton:msp_thumbup:

Sure do! Got a really nice short RN bar that a great guy sent me. That'll be wearing a loop of 3/8" Oregon LGX soon. Will run it with a 3/8-8 rim that I have been saving.

Also have a somewhat beat 24" Windsor sprocket tip (from a Homelite) that will see some use with a 3/8-7 rim on that saw. That RN you sent me is too cool to beat up. That will be the Dayton's "GTG bar" (to show what a 35 year old Poulan can do).

 

[joe25DA]

Sure do! Got a really nice short RN bar that a great guy sent me. That'll be wearing a loop of 3/8" Oregon LGX soon. Will run it with a 3/8-8 rim that I have been saving.

Also have a somewhat beat 24" Windsor sprocket tip (from a Homelite) that will see some use with a 3/8-7 rim on that saw. That RN you sent me is too cool to beat up. That will be the Dayton's "GTG bar" (to show what a 35 year old Poulan can do).

Is that the dayton I sent you? I think it had a .404 rim.

 

[Eccentric]

Is that the dayton I sent you? I think it had a .404 rim.

That's the one Joe. I'm going to swap a 3/8" rim onto it. I think that's a better fit for a 74cc saw. Sac sent me a RN bar months before you sent the Dayton. Will pull your SXL P/C this weekend.

 

[sac]

Sure do! Got a really nice short RN bar that a great guy sent me. That'll be wearing a loop of 3/8" Oregon LGX soon. Will run it with a 3/8-8 rim that I have been saving.

Also have a somewhat beat 24" Windsor sprocket tip (from a Homelite) that will see some use with a 3/8-7 rim on that saw. That RN you sent me is too cool to beat up. That will be the Dayton's "GTG bar" (to show what a 35 year old Poulan can do).

I put a 24" Windsor on mine with a Husky mount and it works good with it. I love that old saw. I'm putting together a Dayton badged 3700 that will look good next to it.
Seems the only green Poulan I have is my 5400, all the others are gray,orange and red.

Scott

 

[Eccentric]

I put a 24" Windsor on mine with a Husky mount and it works good with it. I love that old saw. I'm putting together a Dayton badged 3700 that will look good next to it.
Seems the only green Poulan I have is my 5400, all the others are gray,orange and red.

Scott

I like the private lable Poulans. I've got red Craftsman 1.9 (Poulan XX-D) and 2.1A (25DA) saws, as well as the Dayton badged orange 245SA (always forget what the Dayton model # is). On the green side, I have my 306A and two S25-CVA's (plus a parts S25-CVA). The green is growing on me. I used to not be a fan of it, but I like the looks of that green 306A quite a bit.