Nik's Poulan Thread

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I can't wait. :)

The 4000 of Mike's was the best sounding saw in the four cube build bar none.

I also thought the old Partners had the most "cool" factor. :rock:

I would love to find a 5200 of my own........to say I'm jealous of you guys that have these nice Poulans would be an understatement. :msp_biggrin:


Like one of these?


GEDC0170.jpg
 
I can't wait. :)

The 4000 of Mike's was the best sounding saw in the four cube build bar none.

I also thought the old Partners had the most "cool" factor. :rock:

I would love to find a 5200 of my own........to say I'm jealous of you guys that have these nice Poulans would be an understatement. :msp_biggrin:

I tell ya Randy...There are a lot of Poulans, even us Poulan guys wish we had!:msp_smile: The middle of Ohio, don't seem to be a hot bed for the bigger ones, like 5200/5400, 4900/6900, 7700/8500's, 655's etc.:msp_sad:

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
I tell ya Randy...There are a lot of Poulans, even us Poulan guys wish we had!:msp_smile: The middle of Ohio, don't seem to be a hot bed for the bigger ones, like 5200/5400, 4900/6900, 7700/8500's, 655's etc.:msp_sad:

:cheers:
Gregg,

the bottom of Ohio doesn't fare any better, nor does south central Ontario...
 
Tim, I don't ever recall having to replace crank bearings on my 3400 thru 4000 saws. If you don't have any radial play(side to side), I'd say they are fine. A little in and out play is fine. I wonder if your Thust washers are worn, if in and out play is more than you would like. Either way you will have to split the case in order to renew either the bearings or Thrust washer. BTW you can get a Torrington bearing BH-108 which is an exact replacement. If you do replace the bearings be sure so measure the depth of the old ones in the case before you remove them, so you know how far to set the new ones.

Bob

Well I pressure / vacuum tested the 3400 today and it leaked down fairly fast on pressure and really fast on vacuum. I plugged the intake and exhaust as well as the impulse port for the oiler. I won't have time until Friday or Saturday to look for the leak.

I also checked the play in the crank and don't know what is acceptable but these numbers indicate to me that the thrust washers and maybe the bearings may have to be replaced. If I have to split the case I will do both. I'll check the wrist pin needle bearing at that time as well

Side to side play on the crank is .022 in

Bearing play (up / down) is .003 in

What do you guys think?

Tim

If I have to split the cases do I need any special tools?
 
If I have to split the cases do I need any special tools?


Tim, The only special tool you will need to split the case on that, is a #2 Phillips screw driver. :msp_biggrin:
There is about 7 screws, maybe 9, can't recall off hand.

Poulan had a "special" service tool set for them, but I have never seen them for sale. Was mostly for removing and installing seals & such. To get things the proper depth. But all that can be done without the special tools. Just use common sense, and kinda ck to see how things were set from the factory when pull things apart. They are pretty simple and easy to work on.

As far as your bearing slop measurements go, You will have to go higher up the knowledge ladder here than me for whats acceptable.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
If I have to split the cases do I need any special tools?


Tim, The only special tool you will need to split the case on that, is a #2 Phillips screw driver. :msp_biggrin:
There is about 7 screws, maybe 9, can't recall off hand.

Poulan had a "special" service tool set for them, but I have never seen them for sale. Was mostly for removing and installing seals & such. To get things the proper depth. But all that can be done without the special tools. Just use common sense, and kinda ck to see how things were set from the factory when pull things apart. They are pretty simple and easy to work on.

As far as your bearing slop measurements go, You will have to go higher up the knowledge ladder here than me for whats acceptable.

:cheers:
Gregg,

Yup. Agree with Gregg. The screws that hold the case halves together are located on the recoil side of the saw. There are 9 screws. Can't miss them. If there is radial play I'd say crank bearings are bad. The saws I have don't have any radial play. The bearings are removed by pressing them in towards the inside of the case and installed the same way(inside towards the outside Check depth of the old ones before removal so you have a base figure. Seals are set level with the case boss or slightly inside. Send me your email adress and I'll send you the service manual.

Bob

Unless the Thrust washers look worn I'd say they are probably okay.
 
Well I pressure / vacuum tested the 3400 today and it leaked down fairly fast on pressure and really fast on vacuum. I plugged the intake and exhaust as well as the impulse port for the oiler. I won't have time until Friday or Saturday to look for the leak.

I also checked the play in the crank and don't know what is acceptable but these numbers indicate to me that the thrust washers and maybe the bearings may have to be replaced. If I have to split the case I will do both. I'll check the wrist pin needle bearing at that time as well

Side to side play on the crank is .022 in

Bearing play (up / down) is .003 in

What do you guys think?

Tim

If I have to split the cases do I need any special tools?



I think they may have come from the factory with .003 play in the bearings.
The ones I just replaced in a micro were so bad that you almost couldn't set the air gap on the ignition.
It would pull the flywheel to the magnets and lock up with anything less than 3 business cards stacked together (.036 +or -).
But it was still running.


Mike
 
My uneducated guess would be because the saws crank case section & the rest of the saw is separated by rubber anti-vibe mounts. And that ground wire connects the two.
:cheers:
Gregg,

I can tell you this much, if that ground wire is missing or has a bad connection the on/off toggle switch will shock the poopy out of you if your hands are wet/sweaty.
 
My latest addition

Just picked this up, today. Guy called me saying he had an old Poulan saw he didn't want, and wanted to know if I was interested. Said his uncle had given it to him about 5 years ago. He said he didn't really want it, but took it anyway. Never tried to start it, just let it sit in his barn. Didn't want to just throw it away, figured it would be worth something to someone. Said he'd take $40 for it. Had to drive to New Jersey to get it, but I didn't waste too much time going to get it.
It's dusty, but appears to be in good shape with decent compression.

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Nice find on the 5200 bowsaw! I wonder why they got the top bow guard mounted below? :laugh:

That thing will clean up nice, I'm sure of that. Do it a favor though and pull it down for a good cleanup and inspection BEFORE trying to start it. It at least needs a carb kit, plug, fuel lines and filter.

I have the fitting if you want to covert it to a 2 piece fuel line.
 
new 4200, First saw Ive owned in this series, IM IN LOVE! only problem is the bottom of the case where the 2 handle bolts go in are stripped and cracked. its appears to have had a tree fall on it at one point, hopefully jb weld can fix that problem but other then that it starts quick and cuts great. Im happy:rock:
 
new 4200, First saw Ive owned in this series, IM IN LOVE! only problem is the bottom of the case where the 2 handle bolts go in are stripped and cracked. its appears to have had a tree fall on it at one point, hopefully jb weld can fix that problem but other then that it starts quick and cuts great. Im happy:rock:

Nice saw. That Dodge on the lift is nice too:rock:
 
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