Nik's Poulan Thread

[nick 55]

I just let my brother-in-law run my 4000 and an S25DA yesterday. First comment when I pulled the 4000 out was "What CC is that thing?" I replied, and he said, "24" bar's a little big, isn't it?" I started her up and handed her off and told him to go bury it in some 30" wood I had in the pile to be split. He cuts up a hunk and turns to me smiling. He was really impressed, and told me he wants me to bring it when we go cut firewood for the MIL. Then I handed him the S25. He was grinning the whole time when he ran it, it just screams for the size. His comment about that was that it would run an MS200t for a whole lot less money. I said it wouldn't really run with it, but it was only worth about half what one costs. He told me to keep my eyes out for one for him. Should I sell him one of my 8?

Nick

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Gee, I only have 2.:bang::bang:

I don't have any but I have a few of the 3400 and 3700 versions.

 

[Nardoo]

My 3400 repair/upgrade to 3800 went this way... scored cylinder so no running possible.
So new seals are needed too.
FWIW the basic CR6120 with HMS1 type seal is a single lip seal only..... where the original had an auxillary seal to exclude dirt. This is where I stalled in the repair.

We have to sometimes make do here in Oz, but I must confess to using single lip seals in lots of saws - & so far I have not had a problem. Maybe I am just silly.

Al.

 

[wigglesworth]

Why? run it first then see if you still want to port it, I have never been disappointed with the performance of a stock 85cc Poulan. the cylinders are pretty rare loosing one would be a shame.

Oh, I fully agree. They are beasts stock.

But.......

This one ain't a beauty queen. It's solid though, and runs now. I'm thinking custom reed cage with some carbon fiber reeds, bored carb, everything flow matched and smoothed out and she will really be a beast.

It's gonna be a while though. I got several projects to clear off the bench before hand.

 

[homelitejim]

Oh, I fully agree. They are beasts stock.

But.......

This one ain't a beauty queen. It's solid though, and runs now. I'm thinking custom reed cage with some carbon fiber reeds, bored carb, everything flow matched and smoothed out and she will really be a beast.

It's gonna be a while though. I got several projects to clear off the bench before hand.

I am going to cry foul.......LETS SEE IT.......

I know how my 8500 runs, it is a beast stock, so much so I have a NOS 36 inch bar in .404 and plan on running skip on it with a 7 pin rim and I have no doubt it will pull it with authority. I can't wait to see what a modded one will do.

 

[67L36Driver]

We have to sometimes make do here in Oz, but I must confess to using single lip seals in lots of saws - & so far I have not had a problem. Maybe I am just silly.

Al.

Single lip with garter spring should work fine. J.M. .02

 

[rms61moparman]

Oh, I fully agree. They are beasts stock.

But.......

This one ain't a beauty queen. It's solid though, and runs now. I'm thinking custom reed cage with some carbon fiber reeds, bored carb, everything flow matched and smoothed out and she will really be a beast.

It's gonna be a while though. I got several projects to clear off the bench before hand.

I'm also waiting anxiously to see just what one is capable of in the "right hands".
IMHO that saw is the perfect candidate for exactly what you are going to do with it. It isn't pretty and has been used as it was intended, alterations have been made through the years that have killed the collector value, but it is a solid saw with a great P/C and runs out well.


Thanks again for the work you put in on that junky old no account 4000 Jeremy it is one that I will truly treasure.


Mike

 

[mactodd]

Nick, if you can sell your BIL a S25 for half of what a MS200T goes for used, I'd try to sell him all 8! Half of what they cost new-- well, you just won the lottery!

 

[wigglesworth]

I'm also waiting anxiously to see just what one is capable of in the "right hands".
IMHO that saw is the perfect candidate for exactly what you are going to do with it. It isn't pretty and has been used as it was intended, alterations have been made through the years that have killed the collector value, but it is a solid saw with a great P/C and runs out well.


Thanks again for the work you put in on that junky old no account 4000 Jeremy it is one that I will truly treasure.


Mike

I'm with ya 100% mike. I think it's gonna be fun.

And I'm sooooooo glad u like the 4000. I'm not just saying it cause I built it, but that dang thing is impressive. I couldn't believe it when I first ran it.

Wendell was impressed too.

[video=youtube;_MiqOp2_NFI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MiqOp2_NFI&list=UUvEG38T8e7zTVuj5qqvYPQQ&index=1&feature=plcp[/video]

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Nick, if you can sell your BIL a S25 for half of what a MS200T goes for used, I'd try to sell him all 8! Half of what they cost new-- well, you just won the lottery!

I just bought 2 for around $20 each. They're not much in favor with most people around here.

 

[dynodave]

Single lip with garter spring should work fine. J.M. .02

I'd agree it should work OK. I was just trying to source a double lip, if I could, before reassembly. No luck there yet :msp_angry: Mainly wanted to point out that possibly a vacuum/pressure test showed good but.... the bad bearings may have actually been the cause of the P/C burning up.
:dunno:

 

[wendell]

Wendell was impressed too.

Yes he was.

 

[fossil]

Thank you all who replied with helpful tips on the vacuum leak on my 3400.

I will pull the clutch and flywheel and pressure/vacuum test the saw and check for play in the crank bearings and then repair what needs to be done.

You guys are a wealth of information and huge time savers (at least for me) and I really do appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I am looking very forward to getting this saw going. When I do, I'll get back to you and let you know what I found.

 

[redunshee]

Nick, if you can sell your BIL a S25 for half of what a MS200T goes for used, I'd try to sell him all 8! Half of what they cost new-- well, you just won the lottery!

Jeez, I thought I gad gone off the deep end with 5 S25da's/CVA's. Worst part is I have no opportunity to use them here in Texas.

 

[redunshee]

Thank you all who replied with helpful tips on the vacuum leak on my 3400.

I will pull the clutch and flywheel and pressure/vacuum test the saw and check for play in the crank bearings and then repair what needs to be done.

You guys are a wealth of information and huge time savers (at least for me) and I really do appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I am looking very forward to getting this saw going. When I do, I'll get back to you and let you know what I found.

Tim, I don't ever recall having to replace crank bearings on my 3400 thru 4000 saws. If you don't have any radial play(side to side), I'd say they are fine. A little in and out play is fine. I wonder if your Thust washers are worn, if in and out play is more than you would like. Either way you will have to split the case in order to renew either the bearings or Thrust washer. BTW you can get a Torrington bearing BH-108 which is an exact replacement. If you do replace the bearings be sure so measure the depth of the old ones in the case before you remove them, so you know how far to set the new ones.

Bob

 

[Eccentric]

Jeez, I thought I gad gone off the deep end with 5 S25da's/CVA's. Worst part is I have no opportunity to use them here in Texas.

You're worse than me. I've got four S25-CVA's right now, and two of those are parts saws.:cool2:

 

[redunshee]

You're worse than me. I've got four S25-CVA's right now, and two of those are parts saws.:cool2:

Yea, Aaron. I also 12 saws at my brothers farm in Vermont and am scared of sending more up there. He might get upset. Its the only place I really use my saws. The 25 sitting in my garage do just that; sit there.
Bob

 

[Eccentric]

Yea, Aaron. I also 12 saws at my brothers farm in Vermont and am scared of sending more up there. He might get upset. Its the only place I really use my saws. The 25 sitting in my garage do just that; sit there.
Bob

I do use the 25's. They'e a great brush/slash saw when things get too 'crowded' for a larger rear handle saw. I deal with huge, bushy old blown down root pull oaks and other trees quite a bit.

 

[fossil]

Tim, I don't ever recall having to replace crank bearings on my 3400 thru 4000 saws. If you don't have any radial play(side to side), I'd say they are fine. A little in and out play is fine. I wonder if your Thust washers are worn, if in and out play is more than you would like. Either way you will have to split the case in order to renew either the bearings or Thrust washer. BTW you can get a Torrington bearing BH-108 which is an exact replacement. If you do replace the bearings be sure so measure the depth of the old ones in the case before you remove them, so you know how far to set the new ones.

Bob

Thanks Bob. I just thought I'd check them for play when I have the seals out (if they're leaking) anyway just in case. I don't think the saw has been run that much as the fuel line and some other wear components still had that great Poulan green color paint on them and the compression is at 130.

Tim

 

[Modifiedmark]

I rebuilt the carb on my new to me 3400. The saw fired up at the first pull.
I have changed the fuel and vent lines and replaced the fuel filter. I did not replace the carb to adaptor gasket which seems a bit hard.

The saw will idle fairly well until it is turned on its side, clutch cover down and then it stalls shortly afterwards. Put the saw upright and it will fire right up. I tried adjusting the idle speed a bit richer and it's at about 1-1/8 turn out. Runs well at full throttle and 4 strokes a bit. I haven't put it to a piece of wood yet.

Does that sound like a crank seal issue? I haven't pressure/vacuum tested it yet to look for leaks.

Prior to overhauling the carb it idled and ran well for a dozen cuts and then refused to start. That's why I rebuilt the carb.

I hoping it's not the crank seals as they appear to be difficult to find.

No its not a given that the crank seal is bad. Those HDB carbs can be a PITA to get right. If you adjusted the Inlet needle lever much you could have damaged it where it piviots on the pin and will flood.

Start the saw, and spray some carb cleaner behind the flywheel around that seal. If it dont die then the seal is not leaking and you need to get the carb right.

If you decide to pressure/vac test the saw, to be sure its accurate, you have to remove the impulse driven oiler and block that off too.