Nik's Poulan Thread

[Eccentric]

Nice!

You've awoken the little green monster that was napping on my shoulder.

 

[fossil]

3400 fuel tank removal

I am in the process of splitting the cases.

I don't see anything in the manual or on the IPL which would be holding the fuel tank in place. It is slightly loose but won't come out and I don't want to force it. Am I missing a screw or something that's holding it in place?

 

[hemiyota]

I am in the process of splitting the cases.

I don't see anything in the manual or on the IPL which would be holding the fuel tank in place. It is slightly loose but won't come out and I don't want to force it. Am I missing a screw or something that's holding it in place?

After you have the flywheel off, remove the ignition switch, and then it's just a wiggle and jiggle deal while pulling outward......

 

[fossil]

After you have the flywheel off, remove the ignition switch, and then it's just a wiggle and jiggle deal while pulling outward......

Thanks. Just wanted to be sure.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Got down to the fella with the 8500s. He had the 2 8500s, 1 5200 and 3 boxes of parts...some new. Got the whole package for $200. In the parts boxes were 18 new drive sprockets, some new starter spring discs, and some new bar plates. Whole bunch of gas tank assemblies, starter housings, bar clamps, cylinders, and cases. I think there are enough parts to almost build another 8500 (need a piston and pin), and a 5200 (need a piston and pin).
The one 8500, I pulled apart, replaced the fuel lines and repaired the ignition switch wire, and it fired up. The second 8500 had a small gouge in the piston, so I pulled the p/c. Someone had swapped out the p/c at one time because this one was a smaller bore. I had another p/c in the parts batch, but no wrist pin.
Haven't got to the 5200 yet..........

Wonderful, wonderful find, you done very well.

After you figure out what all you got and what you need, let me know if you want to shed yourself of a couple extra parts. I got a project coming up and might need a few little bits.

 

[fossil]

The good almost new thrust washers on my spare crank are .101" thick the ones on the old and significantly tired crank are .0995" thick. I would not even bother with new thrust washers on my old crank. I'll be adjusting the bearing position to suit the end float. I will put about .003-.005" not having heard anything like a factory spec...

New seals CR 6120 $5.90ea +s/h At Motion brg....I saw prices from 2.90 ($50 minimum) up to $16.95ea...:mad2:.......bearing BH108 1/2L bearing $5.40 ea +s/h at Baum Hydraulic.
now I have to put the 3800 back together after I finish this 850 norton commando engine. :msp_thumbsup:

Tim. Hope the rod bearings are okay as the crank and rod do not seperate. If the rod is too sloppy ley me know as I may have an extra crank assembly.
Bob

This a really nicely designed assembly. Everything is easily accessible and comes apart with ease. The people that designed this saw were really on the ball.

The rod and wrist pin are nice and tight so no issue there.
The crank bearings are worn and feel sloppy on the crank journals but look good. I think the radial run out would likely cause seal damage.

My thrust washers are at .097 and .098 which is a stacked .007 thinner than dynodave's good ones.
For reference, the bearings on both sides are installed .040 below the case flange around the bearing pocket.

That would make me think that the side play in the crank was probably factory set (at least on this critter) at around .014.

The washers look to be good shape so I may just set the bearings (considering my measured side play of.022) a little shallower to get it down a bit. It doesn't appear to be much of an issue as there is so much side play rod to crank that the rod can self center quite easily even with quite a bit more side play than I had.

dynodave, I don't know if I would go down as low as .003 to .005 as I am guessing that may start to bind up when hot.

I think I will try to stick to around .012 - .015

Going forward,

What do you guys recommend for a cylinder base gasket material and how thick? The compressed thickness on the old one is .014

I think I can get some Three Bond 1194 locally. I believe that sealant should be OK for the cases.

Thanks again for helping me this far with it. I think this is as far as I have had a 2 stroke stripped down since my Cox .049 days.


Tim

 

[Showme]

Poulan 330 intake boot

What's the easiest way to replace the intake boot on a 330? It looks like maybe you need to remove the cylinder to install it. Anybody got a shop manual link?

Thanks,

Gerry

 

[fossil]

Alternate to SKF 6120 seal for 3400 - 4000 series

I was looking at seals and wondered if anyone had considered using the Timken (Torrington) 253747 seal instead.

The Poulan seal measured .177 total depth, double lip and the SKF 6120 is .188 single lip. The Timken 253747 is doulble lip but only .125 depth. OD and ID are the same for all.

 

[dynodave]

3400 crank bearings & seal

The small end play... set at room temp..... should not bind unless you try and start it up at 50 below zero. The magnesium coefficient of expansion is almost double that of the steel crank. As they heat up together, the clearance should increase since the mag case grows more than the crank...

example: The steel commando cranks are factory speced at .024 max end play, but we set them to .005-.010 and the bearing to bearing thrust length of these cranks (6") are 3x as long as the 3400 cranks @ 1.7" .:biggrinbounce2:

I have to do a final parts cleaning then I can start assembling my 3400 (3800-P/C). uttahere2:
I have both hondabond4 and permatex motoseal1 for assembling the cases, they are probably the same stuff. I'm just using a new poulan base gasket.

Good find on the double lip seal....

 

[crowellmachine]

Got down to the fella with the 8500s. He had the 2 8500s, 1 5200 and 3 boxes of parts...some new. Got the whole package for $200. In the parts boxes were 18 new drive sprockets, some new starter spring discs, and some new bar plates. Whole bunch of gas tank assemblies, starter housings, bar clamps, cylinders, and cases. I think there are enough parts to almost build another 8500 (need a piston and pin), and a 5200 (need a piston and pin).
The one 8500, I pulled apart, replaced the fuel lines and repaired the ignition switch wire, and it fired up. The second 8500 had a small gouge in the piston, so I pulled the p/c. Someone had swapped out the p/c at one time because this one was a smaller bore. I had another p/c in the parts batch, but no wrist pin.
Haven't got to the 5200 yet..........

Grampa would have said "Now that's a pretty good haul" very nice, I think we spoke on the phone once.....

did you finally get thru to the retired tree trimmer guy near baltimore?

Karl

 

[Nardoo]

Hemiyota, awesome find! Good to see that lot has gone to someone who will appreciate it.

Al.

 

[hemiyota]

Grampa would have said "Now that's a pretty good haul" very nice, I think we spoke on the phone once.....

did you finally get thru to the retired tree trimmer guy near baltimore?

Karl

Yes, we did talk.....
No, I haven't gotten in touch with him yet. I had called his father, (the actual retiree) and he was supposed to get his son to call me. He didn't,and then I had my accident and was crippled up 'till Christmas, so there wasn't much use calling then, when I couldn't do anything. It was weird, HE emailed ME saying that he had 40-60 old Poulan saws and parts that they wanted to get rid of. And I called him, and we talked for a while, and I was supposed to go and see the stuff that weekend. When I called to verify everything, he wouldn't call back. I know he wasn't FOS, because, when I spoke to the old man, he basically verified everything the son had said.
I'll give 'em a bit, and then try again.......

 

[Rebecca341]

I just now noticed you have BrianS' 3400. Great thread, looked at it a million times when i was fixing my clutch cover.. He's a heck of a craftsman, would LOVE to see that saw in person.

 

[fossil]

The small end play... set at room temp..... should not bind unless you try and start it up at 50 below zero. The magnesium coefficient of expansion is almost double that of the steel crank. As they heat up together, the clearance should increase since the mag case grows more than the crank...

example: The steel commando cranks are factory speced at .024 max end play, but we set them to .005-.010 and the bearing to bearing thrust length of these cranks (6") are 3x as long as the 3400 cranks @ 1.7" .:biggrinbounce2:

I have to do a final parts cleaning then I can start assembling my 3400 (3800-P/C). uttahere2:
I have both hondabond4 and permatex motoseal1 for assembling the cases, they are probably the same stuff. I'm just using a new poulan base gasket.

Good find on the double lip seal....

That's good info on the crank clearances. Thanks dynodave.

 

[Chris J.]

I asked a question about the bolt through the recoil cover, & according to the seller
"that bolt is original and holds the recoil assembly to the recoil cover that's the way poulan designed it go figure...."

chainsaw craftsman/poulan 3700 18in bar | eBay

This' on my watch list, I'm curious to see if his reserve is met.

 

[3000 FPS]

I asked a question about the bolt through the recoil cover, & according to the seller
"that bolt is original and holds the recoil assembly to the recoil cover that's the way poulan designed it go figure...."

chainsaw craftsman/poulan 3700 18in bar | eBay

This' on my watch list, I'm curious to see if his reserve is met.

First time I have ever seen that.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

361

just got a 361 delivered today. supposedly supposed to run. the fuel lines, in the tank and external, are hard so need to be replaced.
previously acquired a shop manual and ipl from the beg thread. amazingly there is no mention of fuel line replacement procedure nor line sizes except the lines are: "Fuel line (6-1/2" long, cut from 8120 tubing)" and "Fuel line to carburetor (2-1/2" long, cut from 8109 tubing)". the ipl shows the two lines, coupled with a fuel pick-up fitting. does this fitting screw into the tank. if so, can it even be removed? or would it be better to leave the fitting in and pull the line onto the fitting using a piece of wire?
does anyone know what size 8109 and 8120 tubing are and/or any tricks to replacing the line?
thanks, jerry

 

[fossil]

First time I have ever seen that.

I asked a question about the bolt through the recoil cover, & according to the seller
"that bolt is original and holds the recoil assembly to the recoil cover that's the way poulan designed it go figure...."
chainsaw craftsman/poulan 3700 18in bar | eBay

This' on my watch list, I'm curious to see if his reserve is met.

I have seen that before but not on a saw. The casting where the screw holding the starter pulley on will break off without putting a hole through the starter cover. That's the cheapest way to fix it but I'm not so sure that the cover won't eventually break.

 

[rms61moparman]

I asked a question about the bolt through the recoil cover, & according to the seller
"that bolt is original and holds the recoil assembly to the recoil cover that's the way poulan designed it go figure...."

chainsaw craftsman/poulan 3700 18in bar | eBay

This' on my watch list, I'm curious to see if his reserve is met.

The seller is a blatant liar!
I've seen hundreds, if not thousands, of those saws and none came that way from the factory!

It may last forever, but it isn't "the way Poulan designed it"!


Mike

 

[Modifiedmark]

just got a 361 delivered today. supposedly supposed to run. the fuel lines, in the tank and external, are hard so need to be replaced.
previously acquired a shop manual and ipl from the beg thread. amazingly there is no mention of fuel line replacement procedure nor line sizes except the lines are: "Fuel line (6-1/2" long, cut from 8120 tubing)" and "Fuel line to carburetor (2-1/2" long, cut from 8109 tubing)". the ipl shows the two lines, coupled with a fuel pick-up fitting. does this fitting screw into the tank. if so, can it even be removed? or would it be better to leave the fitting in and pull the line onto the fitting using a piece of wire?
does anyone know what size 8109 and 8120 tubing are and/or any tricks to replacing the line?
thanks, jerry

Jerry I'll set all that straight tonight from my pc.