Nik's Poulan Thread

[redunshee]

I recall saying that the bearing is a Torrington BH-108. I've only ever replaced the bearings once and even then I'm not sure it was needed. That being said if the flywheel was hitting the coil, then I would replace the bearings. In sofar as the measurements, I have no idea what's acceptable. Way beyond my feeble mind. I even have a hard time doing a squish test, if that tells you anything.
Bob

 

[Modifiedmark]

"Even after I set the gap with 2 cards I rewiggled the crank and said #(@(^("

The flywheel would rub and the air would leak instantly....This saw came to me with a burned P/C why???? So would you guys knowingly run with a flywheel rubbing on the magneto/coil? or use 3 or 4 cards for the gap? I think thats pretty dumb. I have no problem with .005"! Especially if the new seal is flexible enough to keep the air out.

If you don't measure it... how do you know if it is .005" or .035"?
Tim, wigglesworth and I would have benefited from knowing .005 was fine/original.

Advice like "AW just run it like it is" doesn't get much traction with me. I guess I'd rather have a homelite that vibrates than a rebuilt dead poulan with another burned P/C :hmm3grin2orange:

Why would that saw come to you with a burnt P/C?

Why would the crank seals and brgs be shot?

Hell I dont know, maybe its over 30 years old and just plain wore out! :hmm3grin2orange:

Yes the needle brg setups are loose, yes the crank thrust is controlled by the depth of the brgs, just the way it is.

If yours was loose enough to rub the coil it had alot of time on it and I'll guess the crank brg surface had some wear on it as well. I have seen it once before but only once.

Was that the best setup ever made? Well no it wasnt but it was good enough to last for years and years of use. Enough to say one would get there moneys worth out of it before a rebuild was needed.

I think you should keep on using your Homelites, I have never seen one of those with shot brgs or a burnt up P/C. :msp_rolleyes:

 

[Showme]

Poulan 330 carb setting

What should the initial needle set up be on a 330 carb. 1 turn out or one 1 1/2 or something else?

Thanks,

Gerry

 

[wigglesworth]

Ahhheeemmmm.....

So I get a text this afternoon from muh pal Mitch. "are 4200 poulans any good?"

I didn't have time to mess with it, but it starts, oil's and idles. Comp feels great.

It'll look good next to muh 5200.

 

[Nardoo]

Mighty nice looking saw there Jeremy, the 4200's have good pulling power for their size.

I just picked up another one myself. This is the nicest I have found so far, and the earliest. Has one of those funny plastic hand guards over the muffler. I actually pick her up on Sunday.

Al.

 

[redunshee]

Don't laugh at me

Okay, I'm fessing up that measuring squish is something I normally don't do. How to you guys go about it? W/o removing the cylinder, do you stick a length of soft solder thru the plug hole and angle it towards the side of the cylinder wall and then repeat it for the other side? Removing the cylinder to do the test just seems like a lot of work. If you have any other method that works for you let me know. I just finished a HUsky 346XP and comp is 180. I want to be sure my squish isn't too little. Plus I've been toying with idea of trying to get the squish on a 3400 down by removing some material from the cylinder. I want to be sure I don't over do it thus I need to figure out the best way to measure squish. Also I wonder if removing material will affect the intake and exaust ports.

Bob

 

[rms61moparman]

Bob,

Yes you are correct romove the plug bend a 90 degree angle about an inch back on your solder stick it in the plug hole until it touches the cylinder wall approx. where the wrist pin would be and pull the saw over. Do the same on all four sides.
If you are going to be taking the cylinder off anyway, I like to cut 4 small pieces and put a daub of grease at the four compass points and imbed the solder in the grease to hold it still, remount the cylinder without the base gasket and roll the crankshaft over a couple of times slowly.
pull the cylinder back off and there you have it.
With these Poulans, don't be at all surprised if it doesn't crimp the solder at all with the base gasket in.
They are known for not having any squish at all but instead just a gentle squeeze or maybe even a caress!!!LOL


Mike

 

[redunshee]

Bob,

Yes you are correct romove the plug bend a 90 degree angle about an inch back on your solder stick it in the plug hole until it touches the cylinder wall approx. where the wrist pin would be and pull the saw over. Do the same on all four sides.
If you are going to be taking the cylinder off anyway, I like to cut 4 small pieces and put a daub of grease at the four compass points and imbed the solder in the grease to hold it still, remount the cylinder without the base gasket and roll the crankshaft over a couple of times slowly.
pull the cylinder back off and there you have it.
With these Poulans, don't be at all surprised if it doesn't crimp the solder at all with the base gasket in.
They are known for not having any squish at all but instead just a gentle squeeze or maybe even a caress!!!LOL


Mike

Thanks, Mike. Was it you, Gregg or Steve, who took material off the cylinder to increase compression on a 3400? I recall reading a post about this and wonder if doing so affected port timing. Not that I have the expertise to adjust for it, anyway. Just curious.
Bob

 

[rms61moparman]

It was me Bob.
It does effect port timing but usually not for the worse.
You can always raise the exhaust port back up the amount you drop the cylinder, but unless it loses a lot of rpms it isn't really beneficial.
Lowering the exhaust roof increases the "time in dwell" and usually increases power.
Lowering the intake floor increases the intake duration and usually increases power also as long as the carb and manifold can handle the flow.
Lowering a 3400 jug has no adverse effect ay all. It is 100% improvement for the amount that you will be able to remove and still maintain .020 +or- squish.


Mike

 

[3000 FPS]

3750

I am splitting the case on a 3750 so I can do some welding on it. I would like to get a oil pump worm gear puller to use. I have not been able to find one yet. Anyone have some suggestions on where I could purchase one. I have the small one for the Poulan 295 but this one on the 3750 is much larger.

 

[rms61moparman]

I am splitting the case on a 3750 so I can do some welding on it. I would like to get a oil pump worm gear puller to use. I have not been able to find one yet. Anyone have some suggestions on where I could purchase one. I have the small one for the Poulan 295 but this one on the 3750 is much larger.

Any Poulan dealer should be able to order that tool for you.


Mike

 

[Mastermind]

Ahhheeemmmm.....

So I get a text this afternoon from muh pal Mitch. "are 4200 poulans any good?"

I didn't have time to mess with it, but it starts, oil's and idles. Comp feels great.

It'll look good next to muh 5200.

Your "You Suckometer" just pegged out. :msp_angry:











Just kidding Brody.

Very nice find.

 

[3000 FPS]

Any Poulan dealer should be able to order that tool for you.


Mike

The other thing I have not found is a part number for it. Thanks.

 

[Deerhunterguns]

craftsman 3.7 and 2.0 (poulan)

Good afternoon everyone, I am new here but really like the old Poulans, I have a very nice old (Poulan made) Craftsman 3.7 chainsaw with a 24" oregon power match bar which I put on it. I really like this saw, I found it at our local landfill, I put new fuel lines and new throttle trigger on it as it had been broken off by the previous owner. How would I go about opening the muffler for more power? any advise is appreciated. I also have an old Craftsman 2.0 that also came from the landfill as well all I did to it was clean it up and put gas in her, away she went.

 

[rms61moparman]

The other thing I have not found is a part number for it. Thanks.

Sending P.M.



Mike

 

[rms61moparman]

Good afternoon everyone, I am new here but really like the old Poulans, I have a very nice old (Poulan made) Craftsman 3.7 chainsaw with a 24" oregon power match bar which I put on it. I really like this saw, I found it at our local landfill, I put new fuel lines and new throttle trigger on it as it had been broken off by the previous owner. How would I go about opening the muffler for more power? any advise is appreciated. I also have an old Craftsman 2.0 that also came from the landfill as well all I did to it was clean it up and put gas in her, away she went.

You can go from as simple as drilling a couple of holes in the muffler to doing a full out ModifiedMark mod depending on your skills with metal fabrication.



This is the ModifiedMark mod!

side view

Mike

 

[fossil]

Good afternoon everyone, I am new here but really like the old Poulans, I have a very nice old (Poulan made) Craftsman 3.7 chainsaw with a 24" oregon power match bar which I put on it. I really like this saw, I found it at our local landfill, I put new fuel lines and new throttle trigger on it as it had been broken off by the previous owner. How would I go about opening the muffler for more power? any advise is appreciated. I also have an old Craftsman 2.0 that also came from the landfill as well all I did to it was clean it up and put gas in her, away she went.

Have a look at this thread, starts at post #17. Good info with pictures.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/183629-2.htm

 

[Deerhunterguns]

thanks a lot, the pics are a great help too.

 

[Deerhunterguns]

I forgot to mention I also have a poulan re-badged as a homelite 33cc, it also came from the very same land fill. It's just the cheap $100 special but it works, I just disabled the Brake cause it kept locking up.

 

[fossil]

I forgot to mention I also have a poulan re-badged as a homelite 33cc, it also came from the very same land fill. It's just the cheap $100 special but it works, I just disabled the Brake cause it kept locking up.

Tell us where your dump is. We are coming