rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
You don't have to tear it down Richard.
Stick a soda straw in the exhaust port to the back and crimp it with the piston.
A popsickle stick works too and may be a nice way to cool down during the process!
Mike
Nik's Poulan Thread
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You don't have to tear it down Richard.
Stick a soda straw in the exhaust port to the back and crimp it with the piston.
A popsickle stick works too and may be a nice way to cool down during the process!
Mike
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Been away visiting family and picked up a couple of Poulans along the way. The 4200 will clean up nicely and is a good runner. The 245A is actually quite nice under twenty years of dust but I was very disappointed to see it needs a piston. Does anyone know where I can find one?
Also picked up a red 3400 parts saw with good a p/c. Very excited to find it as I have not seen Craftsman saws in Oz before. Will have to put them under the bench as work commitments are pressing but will post some pics when I get to them.
Mark, it looks like the hand guard on the 4200 is the same as on the the 6000. I will check tomorrow and if it is will send to you.
Al.
DANG AL!!!
You certainly hit a grand slam home run on that trip!!
3 very desirable Partners and 3 Poulans in one lick...........You are da MAN!
If you were over here competing with us for those you would have pegged the "You Suck-o-meter".
Since none of us Yanks would have ever found them anyway.....GREAT SCORE!!!
Mike
Richard,
Here are some bore diameters for Poulan saws that might help ya out in identifying them.
3400-1.810" aluminum bore
3800-1.880" aluminum bore
3700-1.875" chrome bore
4000-1.935" chrome bore
Gregg,
Here are some bore diameters for Poulan saws that might help ya out in identifying them.
3400-1.810" aluminum bore
3800-1.880" aluminum bore
3700-1.875" chrome bore
4000-1.935" chrome bore
Gregg,
Nardoo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mike, Gregg, even a blind pig finds the occassional acorn. Other times my trips have turned up nothing but Mini-macs and wildthings. I got some nice other saws not counting a bunch of those orange and white ones.
The 245A piston looks like it will clean up - seems to be some scuffing from a mud wasp nest in the muffler. Will need a set of rings though. Seems to be a very light saw for 74cc - I am thinking it will be quite strong.
Al.
The 245A piston looks like it will clean up - seems to be some scuffing from a mud wasp nest in the muffler. Will need a set of rings though. Seems to be a very light saw for 74cc - I am thinking it will be quite strong.
Al.
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Richard,
Here are some bore diameters for Poulan saws that might help ya out in identifying them.
3400-1.810" aluminum bore
3800-1.880" aluminum bore
3700-1.875" chrome bore
4000-1.935" chrome bore
Gregg,
I will do some checking this evening.
It doesn't have the Craftsman model number on it? It should be 358.----------
I do not see any numbers which seems odd.
Are there numbers on the jug? Thanks for the reply.
Usually the model number is imprinted on a sticker on the top of the cylinder cover. It'll be 358.xxxxxx and should confirm the Poulan equivalent. For instance my gray 3800 is 358.356091. I don't know that the model # is printed anywhere else on the saw.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
That bore opening looks to be either a 3700 or 3800. 3400 had a smaller exhaust port. Looks like a chrome piston which leads me to think 3800.
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I agree. Don't think there were ever any grey 3700's, so that (and the chrome piston/thick rings) makes it a 3800. Sears still called them 3.7's. Good saw.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
THANK YOU SIR!!!!!!!!!!
Now all I have to do is find a graphic artist to clean it up and reproduce it!!!
Mike
Rakoprtr
ArboristSite Operative
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
XPLRN
Dad ^^^^ wouldn't understand the CAD!!! :-)
Poulan 245A
Is this really a 74 c.c. displacement saw as stated here;
Model Profile: 245A
What can you Poulan enthusiasts tell me about this saw......things like durability, torque and what size bar is recommended??
It really seems to be quite a compact package for older vintage 74 c.c. saw. Thoughts??
Is this really a 74 c.c. displacement saw as stated here;
Model Profile: 245A
What can you Poulan enthusiasts tell me about this saw......things like durability, torque and what size bar is recommended??
It really seems to be quite a compact package for older vintage 74 c.c. saw. Thoughts??
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
It's complete garbage. Send it out west here for orderly disposal.
Seriously though, that is indeed a 74cc saw. Built on the same chassis as the 59cc 306A. Lightweight for 74cc indeed. Robust, strong, and reliable. Air filters and many other parts are getting harder to find, so you'll need to keep that in mind. For an everyday production saw...........look to newer, foreign objects. As a light duty firewood saw and something to have fun with..................it's hard to beat. Looks like you have an earlier one, as it has the 'scrip' model number on the flywheel cover. That's the first 245A I've seen in that style. Other guys here probably have a few of 'em though. I've seen several 306's and 306A's in that style. That 245A will easily run a 24" bar (or even a 28"), but they ballance better with a 20". They'll run a 3/8-8 rim with a 20" bar for more chain speed too. I'd run a 3/8"-7 if mounting a 24" or 28" bar however.
That saw most likely has a governed Tillotson HS carburetor. The governor assembly is a large brass threaded plug on the side of the carb. That governer can make the saw 'seem' to be running richer than it really is. When tuning it, don't go much less than 1-1/8 turn out from seated on the high side. Many of us disable the governer using a disc cut from copper, a beer can, or a welch plug from a carb kit. You unscrew the governer when rebuilding the carb, then put your disc into the governer hole before threading in and tightening the governor body. Put some gasket sealer on the threads of the governor. I wrote down what size punch to use when cutting out the governor disabling disc..........but I left the paper down in the shop. I'll be in there tomorrow morning, and will post the size up here.
Seriously though, that is indeed a 74cc saw. Built on the same chassis as the 59cc 306A. Lightweight for 74cc indeed. Robust, strong, and reliable. Air filters and many other parts are getting harder to find, so you'll need to keep that in mind. For an everyday production saw...........look to newer, foreign objects. As a light duty firewood saw and something to have fun with..................it's hard to beat. Looks like you have an earlier one, as it has the 'scrip' model number on the flywheel cover. That's the first 245A I've seen in that style. Other guys here probably have a few of 'em though. I've seen several 306's and 306A's in that style. That 245A will easily run a 24" bar (or even a 28"), but they ballance better with a 20". They'll run a 3/8-8 rim with a 20" bar for more chain speed too. I'd run a 3/8"-7 if mounting a 24" or 28" bar however.
That saw most likely has a governed Tillotson HS carburetor. The governor assembly is a large brass threaded plug on the side of the carb. That governer can make the saw 'seem' to be running richer than it really is. When tuning it, don't go much less than 1-1/8 turn out from seated on the high side. Many of us disable the governer using a disc cut from copper, a beer can, or a welch plug from a carb kit. You unscrew the governer when rebuilding the carb, then put your disc into the governer hole before threading in and tightening the governor body. Put some gasket sealer on the threads of the governor. I wrote down what size punch to use when cutting out the governor disabling disc..........but I left the paper down in the shop. I'll be in there tomorrow morning, and will post the size up here.
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redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
To add to the great information above, the bar mount pattern is Oregon D176. Very common pattern and used on many older Poulan and Echo saws. I have two of these saws one a Poulan and the other a Dayton. I've disabled the governor on both saws.
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