That means to me that there's an air leak somewhere... I guess another possibility would be if the wrong needles were in the carburetor.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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That means to me that there's an air leak somewhere... I guess another possibility would be if the wrong needles were in the carburetor.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
CRAFTSMAN 20" CHAINSAW SOLID STATE IGNITION 358/356081 | eBay
According to the IPL that I downloaded it's a 3.0. The "local pickup only," Aquasco, Maryland, is probably going to keep a lot of folks from bidding.
According to the IPL that I downloaded it's a 3.0. The "local pickup only," Aquasco, Maryland, is probably going to keep a lot of folks from bidding.
XPLRN
Dad ^^^^ wouldn't understand the CAD!!! :-)
Thank-you so much, MM, for that great carb removal tech tip!! I was wondering what would be the best way to approach that bottom/lower carb bolt removal. I am sure I've got a old ignition wrench that will now be a dedicated tool for that job after it's been ground on!! :msp_thumbup:
I'll check with my local small engine shop and see if they have that kit in stock and what they get for it.
Didnt look at the 2nd or 3rd 60cc top. But the 1st 60cc 3750 BB I did was Gilardoni
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
That "3.0" should actually be a 3.4ci 3400 that was badged as a 3.0 to meet a lower pricepoint. Sears did that sort of thing more than a few times. That knucklehead should rethink his 'local pickup only' stance....
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was thinking that saw sure looked like a 3400 or 3700, based on the how the rear handles attaches.
Aquasco, MD...maybe someone here can snag a good saw that only needs a basic refreshing.
And with good reason! I've seen what the delivery gorillas do to them!
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I use a 1/4" hollow punch to cut Tillotson HS governor blockoff discs. Forgot to post that earlier.
XPLRN
Dad ^^^^ wouldn't understand the CAD!!! :-)
I appreciate the info and do have a set of hollow punches that have been collecting dust. Haven't had the time to go search out any of the threads about the midification...........sooo just curious as to what thegain in RPM might be and changed performance preception?? Has anyone developed a preferred muffler modification to the 245A ?? Haven't even looked at the muffler yet..........just thoughts that go thru the mind at 2AM in the morning.
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Blocking the governor off is not for perfomace over stock gains, there to keep a 40 year old governor from malfunctioning llike there known to do and make the saw run too rich and like crap.
XPLRN
Dad ^^^^ wouldn't understand the CAD!!! :-)
Great to know and will do when I go thru the carb on my 245A, thanks for the clarification!!:msp_thumbup:
I didn't block the governor on my Dayton version of the 245, it seems to do just fine so far...as for the muffler modification, I have the cast version and I think it's modified enough already!
XPLRN
Dad ^^^^ wouldn't understand the CAD!!! :-)
245A Muffler Inquiry
Sooo I'm curious if you know the date of production for your Dayton 245?? In the picture below it sure looks to be a stamped steel version which I will open up to see how it's configured inside;
My 245A was noted as being a "early" model due to the script font of the "Two Forty Five" on the clutch cover decal as seen here;
I'm wondering if anyone can tell me, from this I.D. tag, what the production year was!??
Sooo I'm curious if you know the date of production for your Dayton 245?? In the picture below it sure looks to be a stamped steel version which I will open up to see how it's configured inside;
My 245A was noted as being a "early" model due to the script font of the "Two Forty Five" on the clutch cover decal as seen here;
I'm wondering if anyone can tell me, from this I.D. tag, what the production year was!??
Sooo I'm curious if you know the date of production for your Dayton 245?? In the picture below it sure looks to be a stamped steel version which I will open up to see how it's configured inside;
My 245A was noted as being a "early" model due to the script font of the "Two Forty Five" on the clutch cover decal as seen here;
I'm wondering if anyone can tell me, from this I.D. tag, what the production year was!??
The muffler on my 2z463 Dayton didn't come out on that saw..the muffler that was on it rotted out and I replaced it with the cast version. If you have a good tin muffler, and it appears you do, do not replace it.
diggers_dad
Sawchologist
Is this a good one?
I'm still figuring out which of these older saws are worth collecting, so can someone here tell me if this is a Poulan in Craftsman colors?
More pics in just a minute...
I'm still figuring out which of these older saws are worth collecting, so can someone here tell me if this is a Poulan in Craftsman colors?
More pics in just a minute...
diggers_dad
Sawchologist
With the amount I paid for it I figure I couldn't have done too bad. Case seems original and all the latches work! The compression felt good on the saw and it fired with the old mix that was in it after 4 or 5 pulls. I'm guessing it's been sitting for a while and either the fuel is stale or the carb needs a tune-up 'cause it took it a little while to warm up and settle in to an idle. All of the A/V mounts seem good and it looks like the bar is the one that came with it.
That's the Poulan 3800 equivalent. 3.7 c.i. Good saw. Good to have an original case too.
Not a good idea to crank a saw with unknown mix in it, possibly stale. Should always put good mix in first.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
That's sage advice. I ALWAYS drain out the fuel that comes with an old saw. Never know what's in there........
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