I have been running 87 in ported saws for like 2 decades.
Octane question
- Thread starter pistolpeta
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pistolpeta
ArboristSite Lurker
I know this thread has grown to be quite the topic (had to bust out some popcorn and read through the comments), but I thought I'd let you guys know I took the CS-620P out on its maiden voyage today.
Pulled 3 times with choke until start, decompress, turned the choke off and let her rip!
Let it slow idle for the 100 yard walk back to the tree (30-40 seconds), ran at half mast for about 15 seconds, didnt see that much oil coming off so I backed out the oil adjustment all the way, got some oil but still seemed light (using Echo's bar oil, will watch it tomorrow when I head back out again and see if it'll send more once I start opening her up after her second tank has been consumed).
Limbed and bucked about half an oak today (I've yet to be able to distinguish oak varieties, larger leaf variety haha) and dropped the remaining 25'-30' that was left standing after the storm. The oak took down a beech tree with it that I'll be cutting up as well (dont know much about burning beech wood but i suspect it'll burn well).
Tree was pretty large, probably 28" diameter or more (where I was cutting the hinge).
Definitely have got alot to learn, you can see how un-level my cuts were after I fell the remaining stump haha, will spend more time ensuring that is set right before I continue next time.
Had a pretty decent lean to it so I gave it a shot
, that plus no risk of damaging anything (other than myself) if it went somewhere other than planned.
Anyways, thanks again fellas for pointing me in the right direction.
I'm definitely at the base of the learning curve and will always take whatever words of wisdom you all provide.
I posted a video of todays shenanigans to get anyones weigh in/pro tips:
Pulled 3 times with choke until start, decompress, turned the choke off and let her rip!
Let it slow idle for the 100 yard walk back to the tree (30-40 seconds), ran at half mast for about 15 seconds, didnt see that much oil coming off so I backed out the oil adjustment all the way, got some oil but still seemed light (using Echo's bar oil, will watch it tomorrow when I head back out again and see if it'll send more once I start opening her up after her second tank has been consumed).
Limbed and bucked about half an oak today (I've yet to be able to distinguish oak varieties, larger leaf variety haha) and dropped the remaining 25'-30' that was left standing after the storm. The oak took down a beech tree with it that I'll be cutting up as well (dont know much about burning beech wood but i suspect it'll burn well).
Tree was pretty large, probably 28" diameter or more (where I was cutting the hinge).
Definitely have got alot to learn, you can see how un-level my cuts were after I fell the remaining stump haha, will spend more time ensuring that is set right before I continue next time.
Had a pretty decent lean to it so I gave it a shot
, that plus no risk of damaging anything (other than myself) if it went somewhere other than planned.Anyways, thanks again fellas for pointing me in the right direction.
I'm definitely at the base of the learning curve and will always take whatever words of wisdom you all provide.
I posted a video of todays shenanigans to get anyones weigh in/pro tips:
That's 2/10 of 1 pump number.
Think of what KOB octane would have to be to raise 128oz by 2 pump numbers...
You may be referring to "points" rather than numbers. Raising 2 "points" would be going from 87 to 87.2 octane. Raising 2 numbers would be going from 87 to 89 octane. The following quote is from the Klotz website:
Octane Booster: 1 oz. of Octane Booster per gallon of gasoline will raise octane by 2 1/2 numbers.
I might be all fouled up, but I've run Klotz for years now in high-performance engines to increase octane in pump-gas where detonation may be a problem. In my experience, the stuff works as advertised.
JQ
I know this thread has grown to be quite the topic (had to bust out some popcorn and read through the comments), but I thought I'd let you guys know I took the CS-620P out on its maiden voyage today.
Pulled 3 times with choke until start, decompress, turned the choke off and let her rip!
Let it slow idle for the 100 yard walk back to the tree (30-40 seconds), ran at half mast for about 15 seconds, didnt see that much oil coming off so I backed out the oil adjustment all the way, got some oil but still seemed light (using Echo's bar oil, will watch it tomorrow when I head back out again and see if it'll send more once I start opening her up after her second tank has been consumed).
Limbed and bucked about half an oak today (I've yet to be able to distinguish oak varieties, larger leaf variety haha) and dropped the remaining 25'-30' that was left standing after the storm. The oak took down a beech tree with it that I'll be cutting up as well (dont know much about burning beech wood but i suspect it'll burn well).
Tree was pretty large, probably 28" diameter or more (where I was cutting the hinge).
Definitely have got alot to learn, you can see how un-level my cuts were after I fell the remaining stump haha, will spend more time ensuring that is set right before I continue next time.
Had a pretty decent lean to it so I gave it a shot
Anyways, thanks again fellas for pointing me in the right direction.
I'm definitely at the base of the learning curve and will always take whatever words of wisdom you all provide.
I posted a video of todays shenanigans to get anyones weigh in/pro tips:
Breaking forum rules trying to bring thread back to original topic...
michael j
ArboristSite Operative
We used to take 'em out for a 110 mph tune up!If that's where the carbon deposits are located.. then absolutely.. Decades ago, when I was a much younger man, getting an engine " de-coked" ( de carbonized) was a regular maintenance thing. Literally, putting a hose down the intake of a running engine was a method of removing carbon deposits from an engine. The detonation of the steam i the combustion chamber shook the carbon loose.
Now, we use Seafoam
Even with today's gas formulas .. we're still burning a carbon based fuel.
Well....ummmm NO! While this is one of the triggers for dieseling, it's not the main cause. Case in point. When I was a mechanic at a Pontiac, GMC and Cadilac dealership, back in the day, I had a guy bring in his new '68 GTO, bought two weeks before, and he was complaining about his car dieseling. I took it to my stall and leaned out the idle mixture screw and didn't hear from him again. Now, I'm relatively sure there was no carbon build up in a two week old engine so again, it's purely a rich condition which causes dieseling. No matter what the heat source may be, a rich mixture is the cause and adjustment is the cure. All cars leave the factory tuned to run at sea level, the worst case scenario, and we were at 4200 feet of elevation so, naturally the car was running rich.
Well excuse me for giving a little context to my comment. It sure would be nice to be all knowing and condescending to all about you. It's good to know that while we have you around we can address all of our questions to just a single source and be enlightened! Thanks for being here for us!
2/10th of one pump number. Do the math I suggested.
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I posted pictures on here of detonation in a STOCK ms660 years ago.
Fuel was stale what made me think something isn't right was the saw was running very hot so shut it down after few hrs running it like that lol.
On pulling the cylinder the piston had bubbles melted into it and worse out towards the squish band. The combustion chamber had bubbles melted into it also.
Anyways cleaned it all put it back together and learned it's best to stick with fresh fuel seeing how rubbish pump fuel is now day's, the saw run for years more after that.
I still have the saw might pull it down again and get more pictures of the detonation that apparently never happens in stock saws lol
High octane or low octane I can't tell the difference running either in a saw but one thing I do know if fuel has ethanol in it it's about useless running it in saws in summer boils and vapor locks in minutes total rubbish. I have to buy 98 octane pump fuel in summer as it doesn't have ethanol in it down here. And yes our octane ratings are different to the USA.
Fuel was stale what made me think something isn't right was the saw was running very hot so shut it down after few hrs running it like that lol.
On pulling the cylinder the piston had bubbles melted into it and worse out towards the squish band. The combustion chamber had bubbles melted into it also.
Anyways cleaned it all put it back together and learned it's best to stick with fresh fuel seeing how rubbish pump fuel is now day's, the saw run for years more after that.
I still have the saw might pull it down again and get more pictures of the detonation that apparently never happens in stock saws lol
High octane or low octane I can't tell the difference running either in a saw but one thing I do know if fuel has ethanol in it it's about useless running it in saws in summer boils and vapor locks in minutes total rubbish. I have to buy 98 octane pump fuel in summer as it doesn't have ethanol in it down here. And yes our octane ratings are different to the USA.
Yeah, I'm sure being a laborer at some oil place gives you a key understanding.
GM dropped the compression ratio on their flagship engines from 10 to 1 or thereabouts to 8.5 to 1 in 1971.
Obviously no point in doing that if they could have just talked to Walker or Benelli .
In the first place I am not a laborer. In the second a laborer in the oil industry makes three times the money a guy that fixes power equipment makes and it takes more education and knowledge to boot. So who is the dumbell?
It's pretty apparent you don't have a clue what the hell your talking about most of the time.
Its.well known that all the auto mfgs dropped compression in and around 1971 along with many other changes. What's your point?
I think you're 100% correct here Ben. I think this guy is just one of those who likes to hang around and cause hate and discontent whenever possible without actually contributing any measurable beneficial knowledge to a discussion. And, there's probably a reason for that!
Thats exactly it.
Actually, I retired when I was 50 years old, 19 years ago. Cause I never made any money I suppose.
I do work on Stihl OPE on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 7 AM till whenever.
You handily ignored why the dropped the compression ratio.
Just hadn't met you and Benelli .
That's funny, wonder if the will delete outdooor power equipment.
I didn't ignore that at all. I am just waiting on your take as to why.. this should be good.
why ya'll need to get in tallywacker measuring contests is beyond me.
The simplest way to avoid this is to provide citations. If youre going to get in a heated discussion. provide a scientific source to back your opinion.
I'm an electrical engineer, the field is so vast that I hate telling people what my degree is in during normal conversation. They'll ask me some relatively easy circuit question that I could have probably answered off the top of my head 20yrs ago, but I have CRS, the thimble is full. I get imposter syndrome all the time, I'm only comfortable being an expert in such a very small niche corner of it. Given time I can usually figure the stuff out, but on the spot, no.
All truly intelligent & wise people are completely open to the suggestion that their opinion can be incorrect, and are open to modifying it when presented real quantifiable data that is counter to that opinion.
The simplest way to avoid this is to provide citations. If youre going to get in a heated discussion. provide a scientific source to back your opinion.
I'm an electrical engineer, the field is so vast that I hate telling people what my degree is in during normal conversation. They'll ask me some relatively easy circuit question that I could have probably answered off the top of my head 20yrs ago, but I have CRS, the thimble is full. I get imposter syndrome all the time, I'm only comfortable being an expert in such a very small niche corner of it. Given time I can usually figure the stuff out, but on the spot, no.
All truly intelligent & wise people are completely open to the suggestion that their opinion can be incorrect, and are open to modifying it when presented real quantifiable data that is counter to that opinion.
If I said the Earth is round bwalker would say it's flat. About that simple.
