Olympyk, Olympic, Oleo Mac, Emak, Efco, Blitz, Folux, Spartan, Spartacus thread

[54stude]

why do you say that?

Any saw we talk about being good here on AS results in tripling the price on ebay... We compete against one another for them and convince ourselves they are worth the money

Try to get a decent deal on an ebay 999 Olympyk, Mac 105 125 or 797, stihl 044 through 088 (and 440 to 880), Husky 262 272 288 346 372 385 390 2100 2101, etc.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Any saw we talk about being good here on AS results in tripling the price on ebay... We compete against one another for them and convince ourselves they are worth the money

Try to get a decent deal on an ebay 999 Olympyk, Mac 105 125 or 797, stihl 044 through 088 (and 440 to 880), Husky 262 272 288 346 372 385 390 2100 2101, etc.

cuz he's like me.....he wants them all!

what they said. we don't necessarily want the "big 2 or 3" users to truly discover our secret. if they have a passing acquaintence thats okay. just got to be careful when going to a gtg cause thats when they can discover the product. already the prices have increased greatly in the last couple years. btw stude, did you see the 999 on the bay?

 

[Vibes]

did you see the 999 on the bay?

I just looked at that 999 on Ebay and was wondering, if that is the same Hoss who used to post on here. I haven't seen him on here in a while.

Anyhow, about that saw. I think it looked a little down on power myself. I have a 999, and I've run it through some monster logs with a 42 inch bar and there was never any boggin. I thought that one was struggling a bit in that oak. The main bar that I run on mine is a 30 inch hardnose, and I can honestly say I can't remember it struggling ever in a cut. Look at the video of that PM 1000 hes selling and he's cutting probably the next log from the trunk of that same oak, and that Mac is doing a way better job than that Oly.

Another thing, look at his disclaimer very closely. He said he can't garauntee it will run after 10 minutes, and he doesn't check pistons if he thinks he doesn't have to. Come on now! You've never looked at the piston of a saw you're trying to sell for $500. Plus, the guy sells lots of saws on Ebay (check his feedback), and he doesn't have a compression tester. Not hatin, just sayin. It looks like a nice $250, $300 dollar saw to me.

 

[tabernak]

BLITZ B252A super?

Hi all,

I have never owned a saw, but I did a chainsaw course last week for my new job (forest firefighter) which has peaked my interest, so when I spotted this saw at the tip on the weekend I grabbed it and cleared a space on my garage bench...

It is branded as a 'BLITZ B 252 A super', but I suspect from my research that it is a re-badged Oleo-Mac 264F (F because of the Walberg carb) or a Olympyk 264?.

It's missing some parts: inner and outer guide bar plates, spike from clutch cover side, chain catcher and bar adjusting screw.

The engine starts and runs, and seems to rev nicely.

The roller bearing for the clutch sprocket is the wrong size, or the clutch sprocket drum is incorrect. The ID of the bearing is 10mm, the OD of the bearing is 14mm, however the ID of the clutch sprocket drum is 15mm. As you can imagine it rattles around on idle until the RPM is high enough to activate the clutch and then the clutch sprocket drum is stabilised. This makes the chain tension hard to adjust correctly.

I am not sure if the bar is original but it has the following markings: '8074' and '1658 GN'. It is made in Canada. I dont know what the '8074' refers to, but I'm assuming that the '1658' refers to 16 inches in length and a 58 thou chain gauge.

I'm keen to get this saw operational, so would appreciate any info anyone may have. Also anyone in Australia parting out one of these models?

Cheers

 

[slipknot]

whats a 999 worth do you think?

 

[8433jeff]

whats a 999 worth do you think?

I think that one went for $400. There was a NOS 999 P/C that brought $32 about a half hour from here. Wonder if the two became or will become one?

 

[Vibes]

You know I saw that cylinder kit on there and didn't know it was from a 999. I've been busy with other things and didn't have the time to look at my saws. I did a quick check of the Acres site and they don't have the cylinder size on there for the 999. I knew it was bigger than my 284 and was gonna buy that but sort of forgot and the sale ended. I saw it went for only $32. My cylinder isn't the cleanest on my 999 and I would have liked to had a spare.

I don't know what a 999 is worth because its rare to ever see one for sale. I paid a good bit less than $400 for mine and its a lot cleaner on the outside. Like I said above, that one wasn't impressing me in that video. That guy had a PM 1000 for sale at the same time, and it did a much better job in that cut.

 

[gmax]

Hi all,

I have never owned a saw, but I did a chainsaw course last week for my new job (forest firefighter) which has peaked my interest, so when I spotted this saw at the tip on the weekend I grabbed it and cleared a space on my garage bench...

It is branded as a 'BLITZ B 252 A super', but I suspect from my research that it is a re-badged Oleo-Mac 264F (F because of the Walberg carb) or a Olympyk 264?.

It's missing some parts: inner and outer guide bar plates, spike from clutch cover side, chain catcher and bar adjusting screw.

The engine starts and runs, and seems to rev nicely.

The roller bearing for the clutch sprocket is the wrong size, or the clutch sprocket drum is incorrect. The ID of the bearing is 10mm, the OD of the bearing is 14mm, however the ID of the clutch sprocket drum is 15mm. As you can imagine it rattles around on idle until the RPM is high enough to activate the clutch and then the clutch sprocket drum is stabilised. This makes the chain tension hard to adjust correctly.

I am not sure if the bar is original but it has the following markings: '8074' and '1658 GN'. It is made in Canada. I dont know what the '8074' refers to, but I'm assuming that the '1658' refers to 16 inches in length and a 58 thou chain gauge.

I'm keen to get this saw operational, so would appreciate any info anyone may have. Also anyone in Australia parting out one of these models?

Cheers

Hi, The site sponsor CHAINSAWR has some Oleo Mac 264F parts, Chainsawr Search
those parts might be hard to find in OZ.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Hi, The site sponsor CHAINSAWR has some Oleo Mac 264F parts, Chainsawr Search
those parts might be hard to find in OZ.

need to get yourself an IPL off of the Efco site. many of those parts are interchangeable between the 2000 series Olys,O-M,Blitz's. i've heard that the sprocket is available on Bailey's too. the part that'll be hardest to find is the electronic coil. you ever run across a parts saw with a good one you should get it.
you describe yourself as new to saws so i gotta tell you. the 264 is a powerful saw which can totally wreck your life if not end it. not trying to scare you, just make you respect the saw enough to make you KYHOYA.
NICE looking saw. you'll be impressed when you cut with it. it is old and heavy but i still love mine and would rather have it than some of the newer, lighter ones. just sayin. btw, welcome to AS.
curious. how much you give for the saw?

 

[Steve NW WI]

Hi all,

I have never owned a saw, but I did a chainsaw course last week for my new job (forest firefighter) which has peaked my interest, so when I spotted this saw at the tip on the weekend I grabbed it and cleared a space on my garage bench...

It is branded as a 'BLITZ B 252 A super', but I suspect from my research that it is a re-badged Oleo-Mac 264F (F because of the Walberg carb) or a Olympyk 264?.

It's missing some parts: inner and outer guide bar plates, spike from clutch cover side, chain catcher and bar adjusting screw.

The engine starts and runs, and seems to rev nicely.

The roller bearing for the clutch sprocket is the wrong size, or the clutch sprocket drum is incorrect. The ID of the bearing is 10mm, the OD of the bearing is 14mm, however the ID of the clutch sprocket drum is 15mm. As you can imagine it rattles around on idle until the RPM is high enough to activate the clutch and then the clutch sprocket drum is stabilised. This makes the chain tension hard to adjust correctly.

I am not sure if the bar is original but it has the following markings: '8074' and '1658 GN'. It is made in Canada. I dont know what the '8074' refers to, but I'm assuming that the '1658' refers to 16 inches in length and a 58 thou chain gauge.

I'm keen to get this saw operational, so would appreciate any info anyone may have. Also anyone in Australia parting out one of these models?

Cheers

Sure looks to me like a 264F, because of the chain brake. My 264 doesn't have one, my F does.

That bearing sure isn't correct, or the sprocket is wrong. I don't have one tore apart right now to check, but I can over the holidays if you need it.

The outer spike isn't common, and is not needed, but it looks cooler with one. I think I have one among my half dozen 200 series saws. Maybe I should try to get a batch made?

This link will get you the .PDF file with IPLs (Illustrated Parts Lists) for all the 200-900 series saws. http://www.efcopower.com/sites/default/files/200 - 300 - 400 - 900 Series_IPL.pdf

A quick search shows you've got a good drive to find an Efco dealer from Canberra, but you should be able to get most of the pieces you need through them yet. If not, I have some of the parts, maybe all of them, but I'd have to dig for a bit down in the shed, and shipping might be expensive.

Here's what I came up with for dealers "near" you:

McInerney Motors 135.7km
303 Boorowa St
Young NSW 2594
Ph:02 6382 3384 Fax:02 6382 3321

Sapphire Nupulse 137.9km
Lot 9, Avernus Street
Cobargo NSW 2550
Ph:03 6493 6479 Fax:02 6493 6479

Allpower Garden Machinery Centre 155.3km
Shop 4, Cnr Crimea St & Old Hume Hwy
Mittagong NSW 2575
Ph:02 4872 1318 Fax:02 4872 1319


Let us know what you find and what you still need and we'll try help get the old girl up and running again.

Side note: I see Efco is selling the 3500/3750/4100 with the PowerSharp system, but it's the end of bar system, not the built in like their electric has.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

here's the link for the 264, 264 deluxe and 264F deluxe

http://www.efcopower.com/sites/default/files/264Deluxe_IPL.pdf

 

[srcarr52]

Does anyone have a source for a 999F piston. I have a project that I'm trying to get done. It was a former cut-off saw but has the oiler on it now and I got a rim drive spocket off an ICS saw and a Cannon 36" roller nose for it.

 

[Vibes]

I suspect from my research that it is a re-badged Oleo-Mac 264F (F because of the Walberg carb) or a Olympyk 264?.

I'm pretty sure your saw is a rebadged 264 Deluxe. It has that plastic tank next to the carb. That was Olympics attempt to reduce gas boiling in the tank. Does yours have the plastic starter pulley?

Acres site has the Deluxe models rated at 59cc's instead of 61, like the 264F. Both models are great saws and seem to have been Olys best sellers in the states.

 

[Liv]

Olympyk 254F - Hard start

Hello and Merry Christmas to everyone.

I have a 254F that , when it starts , runs well and cuts with no problem. The issue i had was once it stopped, it would not start again. Possibly flooding

I did the following to the saw and the problem persists.

1) Changed fuel line

2) Changed diaphragm in carb.

3) replaced needle and seat

4) Carb and fuel tank completely cleaned

5) Checked coil - sparks - just not sure what the spark should read with a spark gap reader, but it does spark on every pull.

6) changed spark plug.


Its a real nast7y animal to start, I suspect it still is flooding badly. Another thing we noticed was when we did start it the saw engaged and we stopped it by turning down the left hand idle screw, but it died, maybe we over turned.

I think its something simple perhaps the rights hand side idle screw is not set properly. Nothing mechanically wrong with the saw that we could tell since it rune well when it does go.


One more questions, i am thinking of using this saw in my sawmill ( have yet to build, any opinions ), what length bar can this size of saw handle. I am hoping at least a 20 in. bar, if not a 22 in.



All comments appreciated.

Liv

 

[lumberjackchef]

Hey guys looking for a coil that would fit a 26F deluxe. I have hundreds of parts saws but nothing along these lines. I never(almost) see an olympyk in my neck of the woods so any info is much appreciated. I printed the link for the ipl thanks for that in advance!

 

[arlostone]

olympyk 264f deluxe for sale

View attachment 214154View attachment 214155View attachment 214156View attachment 214150hi every one,as a result of CAD i have too many saws, and since i've started to tend towards stihl's i'd like to offer my oly 264f deluxe for sale. this is the first saw i ever bought new and is in great shape ,i think it's a 94 or 95 only been through one chain.i think i paid about 380 for it and would like to get 150 plus shipping for it. the saw is stock and has low hours onit if noone is interested i will probably start modifying it ,not trying to hijack thread just seemed tha this was where the oly people are.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

nice saw. you can't hijack this thread long as your talkin bout olys

 

[Steve NW WI]

Hello and Merry Christmas to everyone.

I have a 254F that , when it starts , runs well and cuts with no problem. The issue i had was once it stopped, it would not start again. Possibly flooding

I did the following to the saw and the problem persists.

1) Changed fuel line

2) Changed diaphragm in carb.

3) replaced needle and seat

4) Carb and fuel tank completely cleaned

5) Checked coil - sparks - just not sure what the spark should read with a spark gap reader, but it does spark on every pull.

6) changed spark plug.


Its a real nast7y animal to start, I suspect it still is flooding badly. Another thing we noticed was when we did start it the saw engaged and we stopped it by turning down the left hand idle screw, but it died, maybe we over turned.

I think its something simple perhaps the rights hand side idle screw is not set properly. Nothing mechanically wrong with the saw that we could tell since it rune well when it does go.


One more questions, i am thinking of using this saw in my sawmill ( have yet to build, any opinions ), what length bar can this size of saw handle. I am hoping at least a 20 in. bar, if not a 22 in.



All comments appreciated.

Liv

Might want to confirm that it's flooding, and not lacking fuel. Pull the plug when it won't fire, and see if it's soaked with fuel or dry, that'll get us closer to a solution, but it's fuel system related almost certainly.

You'll likely be disappointed milling with this saw, or anything in the 50cc range. With a light touch, it's possible, but to get any production at all, look for a 70cc saw as a BARE minimum, 85+ is preferred.

Hey guys looking for a coil that would fit a 26F deluxe. I have hundreds of parts saws but nothing along these lines. I never(almost) see an olympyk in my neck of the woods so any info is much appreciated. I printed the link for the ipl thanks for that in advance!

I may or may not have one, whenever winter decides to show up and I spend some time inside tinkering on saws, I'll get to my stack of Oly projects and know what I need or have extras of. Can't help much right at the moment though.

 

[Liv]

Thanks Steve. Everything is clean and fuel lines replaced. The saw starts well in half choke position, but as it runs we seem misting exiting out of the Choke shutter. Before i cleaned and replaced carb parts, there would be massive pooling of fuel in the reservoir behind the choke shutter, but now its just mist. I assume the needle and seat swap fixed that problem.

After the saw stops, I blow air into the carb to clean it of fuel and it starts right away. I will check to make sure the diaphragm is sitting properly but I did notice the welch plugs were missing. I have them as part of a kit so i will reseat the new ones.

You know, the saw works well, but its these little carbs that cause so much headache and frustration.

Will, take a video of it so you can see what i mean by misting. Tilloston does have a good pdf on the carb with exploded views and explanations. But in my case, way to much information.

I got you on the size of saw , will a make a decision but may have to go with a bandsaw type.


Note : I saw some coils on Ebay and other Google searches.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Thanks Steve. Everything is clean and fuel lines replaced. The saw starts well in half choke position, but as it runs we seem misting exiting out of the Choke shutter. Before i cleaned and replaced carb parts, there would be massive pooling of fuel in the reservoir behind the choke shutter, but now its just mist. I assume the needle and seat swap fixed that problem.

After the saw stops, I blow air into the carb to clean it of fuel and it starts right away. I will check to make sure the diaphragm is sitting properly but I did notice the welch plugs were missing. I have them as part of a kit so i will reseat the new ones.

You know, the saw works well, but its these little carbs that cause so much headache and frustration.

Will, take a video of it so you can see what i mean by misting. Tilloston does have a good pdf on the carb with exploded views and explanations. But in my case, way to much information.

I got you on the size of saw , will a make a decision but may have to go with a bandsaw type.


Note : I saw some coils on Ebay and other Google searches.

I'm not a carb guru either, but some of the guys in the main chainsaw section can sure help. Perhaps try your questions there, with vid if you've got one. Replacing the welch plugs will possibly be a big step forward though.

The bandsaw will be better for ya in the long run if you're serious about doing a lot of milling. Even if you just have a big project, buying used and reselling after is an option, less wood wasted in the kerf and more productive. Check the milling and sawmills section here for some guys that do a ton of milling. I'm still in the dreaming about milling phase myself.