Partner Chainsaw Thread

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Just an FYI... the replacement Jred 490/590 and Partner 5000+ top ends that are available today are open port.
 
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Sorry to say, there's nothing out there. I've got lucky a few times and found nos 46mm pistons/cylinders on ebay... but not often.

Yea, I figured as such. Got the saw running real well after replacing the metering spring. However even with a new ring comp is 90. Funny thing is it starts and cuts fine. However I'm thinking it would have more grunt if comp was up. My tester is fine as it showed 170 on my PP 475. I wonder if I put the wrong ring on it. Supposedly was for a 5500 and 325' but u never know EBay.
Bob
 
So give me some thoughts. When you buy older saws which I have 3 Partner 500's and none are running at present time, whats the best steps to take in troubleshooting. 1.) Compression test 2.) Fuel 3.) Spark??? Actually two of them do run one I seem to have trouble adjusting carb properly., but it will rev up just wont idle and second one I had running for a short time but seems to be fuel coming out of muffler. Quite a bit. and 3rd one I bought i have tor apart in a box but when I bought it, it was ridicuously tight to pull. I wanna get all these screaming..:msp_rolleyes: If I have to get a piston and cyl Ive got alot of good advice as to what will bolt right up and what will work but need more clearance made on base of saw for piston to clear. I dont want to lack and power than what these had new if anything a little more would be great. Thats why I was leaning towards a husky 55 jug? Any good thoughts? I'd be happy just to have all three running as they did new without extra power too. Ohhh and if I do buy new piston/cyl and advice on which brands to buy and what to stay away from. Ive been hearing alot of horror stories with some of these
 
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So give me some thoughts. When you buy older saws which I have 3 Partner 500's and none are running at present time, whats the best steps to take in troubleshooting. 1.) Compression test 2.) Fuel 3.) Spark??? Actually two of them do run one I seem to have trouble adjusting carb properly., but it will rev up just wont idle and second one I had running for a short time but seems to be fuel coming out of muffler. Quite a bit. and 3rd one I bought i have tor apart in a box but when I bought it, it was ridicuously tight to pull. I wanna get all these screaming..:msp_rolleyes: If I have to get a piston and cyl Ive got alot of good advice as to what will bolt right up and what will work but need more clearance made on base of saw for piston to clear. I dont want to lack and power than what these had new if anything a little more would be great. Thats why I was leaning towards a husky 55 jug? Any good thoughts? I'd be happy just to have all three running as they did new without extra power too. Ohhh and if I do buy new piston/cyl and advice on which brands to buy and what to stay away from. Ive been hearing alot of horror stories with some of these

A 500 has a 44mm open port top end. A 55 Husky open port top end is a 46mm bore and will give you more power then what you had.

The case don't need clearanced for piston clearance but needs opened for the bottom of the cylinder to fit the case.

Buying aftermarket top ends is at best a crapshoot and there are only two places I would even think of buying from. Bailys or Weedeaterman which are both sponsors of this site are the only two I would trust to stand behind there parts.

If it was be I would be looking to see if the original cylinder could be cleaned up first and if it could I would use a OEM Husqvarna 350 piston or a aftermarket Meteor piston in it.

I wouldn't do either though without planning on going through the whole saw top to bottom, meaning crank seals, gaskets and going through the complete fuel system. If you don't your just wasting your time and money.

Those saws are old and need the old rubber parts replaced.
 
i am pretty familiar the top end and all its components on these saws but what am i looking for on bottom end. Like what am i looking for in the crank seals? ohhh yeah and cleaning up the bores, your meaning the acid thing? I am planning on that as soon as i get some tonight
 
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PP500 carb

I just finished getting my 500 running and was wondering if any of you have seen one with a Tillotson HU 63A carb instead of the Walbro WA 158A. The 500 came with the Tillotson and a 5000 parts saw came with the Walbro. I put the Walbro on the 500.
 
I just finished getting my 500 running and was wondering if any of you have seen one with a Tillotson HU 63A carb instead of the Walbro WA 158A. The 500 came with the Tillotson and a 5000 parts saw came with the Walbro. I put the Walbro on the 500.

Yes.

And you did the right thing. The walbro is a better carb.
 
Yes.

And you did the right thing. The walbro is a better carb.

I would really like to know your reasoning for that?

I know on the little Poulans the HU's seemed to always idle better then the WA's and top end performance seemed equal.

First of all, I had a fair share of Miller High Lifes tonight... hope I can make sense. lol :D :givebeer:
I can't speak for Chis, but I prefer a Walbro over anything... besides a Bing. I really like me a Bing 48/49.
I will say I don't have much experience with the WU, and I'm not putting Tilly's down, but time after time, the Walbros seem to give me less fits than the Tillys. I'm sure there's other people that feel different.
 
First of all, I had a fair share of Miller High Lifes tonight... hope I can make sense. lol :D :givebeer:
I can't speak for Chis, but I prefer a Walbro over anything... besides a Bing. I really like me a Bing 48/49.
I will say I don't have much experience with the WU, and I'm not putting Tilly's down, but time after time, the Walbros seem to give me less fits than the Tillys. I'm sure there's other people that feel different.

Yup.

I just have less trouble with them Mark. I have Tilly carbs that run fine, and I don't notice any difference between the two as far as how strong the saw runs, its just easier to make a walbro run well. Every time I've had a carb be a PIA, on either these saws or a big Pioneer, its been the Tilly.
 
First of all, I had a fair share of Miller High Lifes tonight... hope I can make sense. lol :D :givebeer:
I can't speak for Chis, but I prefer a Walbro over anything... besides a Bing. I really like me a Bing 48/49.
I will say I don't have much experience with the WU, and I'm not putting Tilly's down, but time after time, the Walbros seem to give me less fits than the Tillys. I'm sure there's other people that feel different.

Really? Well OK but not all Walbros were golden either. 199 bring up any thoughts?

The HDB's are not one of my favorites and the HDA's have there share of mutts as well...


Yup.

I just have less trouble with them Mark. I have Tilly carbs that run fine, and I don't notice any difference between the two as far as how strong the saw runs, its just easier to make a walbro run well. Every time I've had a carb be a PIA, on either these saws or a big Pioneer, its been the Tilly.

Just wanted to know where you were coming from. I find it interesting that you mention problems with a Tilly on a big Pioneer. That would be a HS, one of the most common and produced carb series to ever be put on a chainsaw of any brand. One of the best ever in my book..
 
Yes I agree Mark. And I don't have trouble with all HS carbs, its just that I've never had ANY trouble with an SDC.
 
View attachment 309692View attachment 309693R421T is there a clutch spring that will work on this? say something current? this saw constantly spins the chain. half way through this thread I read someone else had one that would spin anyone had one with that issue clutch is complete has the large washer in it. I originaly thought that might have been touching but seems its a week spring perhaps??
 
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5000 or 5000+

I know,,i know,,,but i just CAINT member !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cry:

how to tell the diff tween the two when it sez only " 5000 " on the metal tag..


traded an OLY 950 i had $10 into fer it..






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