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Ok. I can't stand it. I'm going to go ahead and do the rebuild & restoration of my 1074, sans air filter cover. Might have to coax the boss to let me have our cheif CNC guy make on based on the diminsions on the cracked & busted one I have. Do you think there would be a market for these covers machined out of aluminum. I think I have enough of the original to make an exact replica. Except for the the wood surface texture. I work for a manufacturing plant, so we have plenty of CNC & conventional machine tools. NOW , I have not seen the IPL or shop manual for the 1074 in the list of manuals you fine gentlemen have assembled so far. Unless I just overlooked it. So I am in need of these two, please.:bang:

Yes Im bangin my head against the wall over the air filter cover thing...:dizzy:

I will send you the cover from my 1073 that is complete if I can somehow end up with two aluminum ones. The cover had a crack but was not missing parts. I plastic soldered it back together so the shape is correct and complete. I won't be able to use my 1073 until I get the aluminum ones or that cover back but then my P25 restore would be complete in the end and I could redo my 1073 as well...

PM me if you want to work something out.

Brian
 
I will send you the cover from my 1073 that is complete if I can somehow end up with two aluminum ones. The cover had a crack but was not missing parts. I plastic soldered it back together so the shape is correct and complete. I won't be able to use my 1073 until I get the aluminum ones or that cover back but then my P25 restore would be complete in the end and I could redo my 1073 as well...

PM me if you want to work something out.

Brian

Brian
I will need to try to convince the boss first. He did once say to me to have our CNC supervisor machine one out of aluminum, but I dont think he realizes how expensive it would be. I will have to have our inspection dept. CMM the one I have, then fill in any missing dimensions then see how long to program etc. Good thing the boos is a Stihl junkie (he has 7), that might help, but it will be a process & probably pricey. Well see. I'll try to keep you all posted. Like I was telling Lawrence, If we could track down the original molder & find the molds, I know an injection molder up the street. Man, what a gold mine that would be.:drool:
 
Brian
I will need to try to convince the boss first. He did once say to me to have our CNC supervisor machine one out of aluminum, but I dont think he realizes how expensive it would be. I will have to have our inspection dept. CMM the one I have, then fill in any missing dimensions then see how long to program etc. Good thing the boos is a Stihl junkie (he has 7), that might help, but it will be a process & probably pricey. Well see. I'll try to keep you all posted. Like I was telling Lawrence, If we could track down the original molder & find the molds, I know an injection molder up the street. Man, what a gold mine that would be.:drool:

If needed I can solid model it, drop you a step file or whatever and you can CAM away...:cheers:
 
I might be pestering you guys here for a bit. I took in a neighbor/farmer's P40 that doesn't run. It's an older one (no comp. release, no brake)
A quick check at home showed no spark. I disconnected the on/off switch and still no spark. I'll have to clean the points and see where that gets me.
The compression seems really good. When I turn the clutch drum it turns the clutch too. I guess the springs are shot ? When the clutch turns it turns easily, as if there's no compression, but it pulls over hard with the starter.
The old gas that was sitting in it friggin' stinks. Jeez I hate that smell. :cry:
Anyway, I'll probably be back with questions. Is here ok or should I start a thread ?
 
Maybe someone here knows who owns one of these!
Lawrence
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggvzcGdZsTc

Lawrence
We need to borrow Jay's, for a few minutes. Man that would be the ticket. Ok Between all the members of these forum's, someone gotta know someone who has one of these high dollar puppies. If we could just scan ONE. Great video.

Rennie
 
I might be pestering you guys here for a bit. I took in a neighbor/farmer's P40 that doesn't run. It's an older one (no comp. release, no brake)
A quick check at home showed no spark. I disconnected the on/off switch and still no spark. I'll have to clean the points and see where that gets me.
The compression seems really good. When I turn the clutch drum it turns the clutch too. I guess the springs are shot ? When the clutch turns it turns easily, as if there's no compression, but it pulls over hard with the starter.
The old gas that was sitting in it friggin' stinks. Jeez I hate that smell. :cry:
Anyway, I'll probably be back with questions. Is here ok or should I start a thread ?

Sounds like its been sitting a long time. Get a comp. reading, then tear it down to the shortblock. After a thorough inspection if deemed cost effective, then build her back from the ground up. :2cents:
 
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One more thing,. Anyone know if there is a thread just for carbs. I have held on to a lot of Zama, Walbro, Tk, Tillotson, Carbs over the years. Didn't know if there was a place or a market for refurbed carbs. Glad I saved these guys,as the adjustable jets are slowly but surely disappearing. Discuss...
:cheers:

Ok I'll quit hogging the boards, go play guitar & look for the answers tomorrow.
 
I might be pestering you guys here for a bit. I took in a neighbor/farmer's P40 that doesn't run. It's an older one (no comp. release, no brake)
A quick check at home showed no spark. I disconnected the on/off switch and still no spark. I'll have to clean the points and see where that gets me.
The compression seems really good. When I turn the clutch drum it turns the clutch too. I guess the springs are shot ? When the clutch turns it turns easily, as if there's no compression, but it pulls over hard with the starter.
The old gas that was sitting in it friggin' stinks. Jeez I hate that smell. :cry:
Anyway, I'll probably be back with questions. Is here ok or should I start a thread ?

I would take the clutch apart. The clutch itself may be froze to the drum from sitting a long time.
 
Ok. I can't stand it. I'm going to go ahead and do the rebuild & restoration of my 1074, sans air filter cover. Might have to coax the boss to let me have our cheif CNC guy make on based on the diminsions on the cracked & busted one I have. Do you think there would be a market for these covers machined out of aluminum. I think I have enough of the original to make an exact replica. Except for the the wood surface texture. I work for a manufacturing plant, so we have plenty of CNC & conventional machine tools. NOW , I have not seen the IPL or shop manual for the 1074 in the list of manuals you fine gentlemen have assembled so far. Unless I just overlooked it. So I am in need of these two, please.:bang:

Yes Im bangin my head against the wall over the air filter cover thing...:dizzy:

Rennie, That would be great if you can make them out of aluminum. That's how Pioneer should have done it. I never did like the look of the wood grain on the covers anyway. I don't have any saws with this cover........................................ yet. :)
 
I would take the clutch apart. The clutch itself may be froze to the drum from sitting a long time.
It isn't froze. The drum will spin a bit. I'm more concerned as to why I don't feel the engine's compression when turning the clutch ?
 
Should have kept doing it

Rennie, That would be great if you can make them out of aluminum. That's how Pioneer should have done it. I never did like the look of the wood grain on the covers anyway. I don't have any saws with this cover........................................ yet. :)

I agree!Arrowhead,If you take a look at Mike Acres Site and go through some of the smaller models from the early 60's and 70's you can see that the air filter covers were made out of either magnesium or aluminum.They also had a heavy duty knob for keeping them on!
Lawrence
 
Pioneer saws

Hey guys , I'm new here , thanks to Propliner . I have 3 P12s & P20 & a partial 1073 that i'm trying to restore . Then after I met Brendon , I started feasting on Pioneer more so . Since then I've picked up a 1073 & 1072 to get back to life . I hope someday to get a P61, P26,& P52 cheap . I'm looking for Pioneer parts for these saws . Brendon has been a real Pal by selling me parts for my P12 saws . So if anyone can help me out , email me .I've been buying reprints of whatever manuals I can get & afford . I've been disabled since 2000 so money isn't great on my end . But I do have lots of time , various tools (no special Pioneer ones tho), & love for restorations .I've making myself a flywheel puller . I love fabricating things . I wish I had a picture with measurements of a Pioneer puller to go by (hint hint).Keep up the interesting topics .God bless, Ken
 
Hello Ken

Welcome to the AS and one of the best threads here.The Pioneer Gurus are more than happy to share their knowledge with others ,so when needed ask away.A few of us are presently working on a Pioneer information cache,that will have IPL's,Service Bulletins and repair information.So stay tuned.Good that propliner steered you this way
Lawrence
 
It isn't froze. The drum will spin a bit. I'm more concerned as to why I don't feel the engine's compression when turning the clutch ?

Im not sure how to answer that, I would do a compression test. That will tell you for sure what your dealing with.
 
Im not sure how to answer that, I would do a compression test. That will tell you for sure what your dealing with.
I will, but it pulls over just as hard as any running saw. I'll have to remove the clutch to see what's up. I assume the clutch is reverse thread ? The nut is normal thread.
 
I will, but it pulls over just as hard as any running saw. I'll have to remove the clutch to see what's up. I assume the clutch is reverse thread ? The nut is normal thread.

Brian
I was thinking. The only way the clutch & drum would spin easily if frozen together, but still feel compression when pulling it over, would mean that the clutch shoe assy was loose on the shaft did you check to see if is was on tight or if it can be screwed off by hand? Silly question I know, but just trying to throw out possibilities.
 

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