Pioneer chainsaws

[pioneerguy600]

Ok, I'll do that tomorrow. Any idea on how much I should raise it? Maybe the thickness of the lever above the body?

That is what I would try, then see how that responds.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Saw Dr.]

This is looking really good,can the stihl coil be made to fit P41?

I do not have a P-41 to experiment with. Any chance you want to donate one to the cause? LOL. It is for research, I swear.

This is actually my first visit to Pioneer-land. I have a 650 under the bench for a rainy day project. I am always on the lookout for an RA, but no luck yet. I hate to start out on this one by cobbling together something with non-original parts. I'm kind of a perfectionist that way. I fugure that if I wait for the correct coil, I'll loose interest and the saw will never get finished. Those Stihl coils are very reliable, and easily obtained, so it sould be a good solution. I'm probably going to have to steal the coil from the Homelite 410 to get a timing number, though. Then I can go on with the conversion.

 

[Jacob J.]

I decided to go ahead with the Stihl coil conversion. I have interest in getting that 410 running anyway, and it does have good spark. More pics to follow. A couple of weedeaters took precedence over the P-61 for now. Anyone have an idea how many degrees BTC the timing is on a P-61? Going to need that to re-index the flywheel.

Hey Tim-

What are you looking to do with the flywheel on the P-61? If you need different flywheels, I have about 20.

 

[CoombsGuy]

So I went to go get a chain for my 1073, and no luck. They had chains that were close, but not exact. I need a 3/8 .050, 14" with 53 links. The closest I could find was a 52 link. That would work fine right? Or des it have to be a 53?

Might be a dumb question, but I am new to the chainsaw world. I can fix anything motor related, but as far as bar and chain knowledge goes that's where I get a bit lost.

 

[parrisw]

So I went to go get a chain for my 1073, and no luck. They had chains that were close, but not exact. I need a 3/8 .050, 14" with 53 links. The closest I could find was a 52 link. That would work fine right? Or des it have to be a 53?

Might be a dumb question, but I am new to the chainsaw world. I can fix anything motor related, but as far as bar and chain knowledge goes that's where I get a bit lost.

It might work, but will probably be hard to get it on with 1 less link. Isn't there anybody around there that can make one for you?

 

[parrisw]

Well it worked Jerry, raised up the lever a little and its good now. Thanks for the help. Vid uploading now. Here is a pic.

 

[Lou]

I do not have a P-41 to experiment with. Any chance you want to donate one to the cause? LOL. It is for research, I swear.

This is actually my first visit to Pioneer-land. I have a 650 under the bench for a rainy day project. I am always on the lookout for an RA, but no luck yet. I hate to start out on this one by cobbling together something with non-original parts. I'm kind of a perfectionist that way. I fugure that if I wait for the correct coil, I'll loose interest and the saw will never get finished. Those Stihl coils are very reliable, and easily obtained, so it sould be a good solution. I'm probably going to have to steal the coil from the Homelite 410 to get a timing number, though. Then I can go on with the conversion.

I think Bob (Farley9n) hit on a great idea. Any coil (without bells and whistles) with a long enough high tension lead, bonded to the original Pioneer laminated core should operate normally with no need to re-time anything. Anybody see a flaw in this logic?
Lou
Who makes the most reliable low cost coils (ignition modules)?

 

[parrisw]

Here is a vid of it running nicely!

Thanks for the help guys.

Yes I know the chain is a little tight.

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[hqv]

Great sound. Cool saw.

 

[Lou]

On my Seattle Craigslist.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/grd/1962503934.html

Eric 253-365-3050

 

[pioneerguy600]

Well it worked Jerry, raised up the lever a little and its good now. Thanks for the help. Vid uploading now. Here is a pic.

Good to hear that Will, the needle in that carb may not be the original and some of the needle valves with the Viton type tip seem to need a little extra height on the metering lever to allow enough flow for those old gas guzzlers. I cannot se a link for the last vid you made of it running nicely.
Pioneerguy600

 

[DSS]

On my Seattle Craigslist.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/grd/1962503934.html

Eric 253-365-3050

Dude thinks pioneer went out of business in 1964 ?????

 

[pioneerguy600]

Dude thinks pioneer went out of business in 1964 ?????

Actually 1985. AFIK.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Goball]

Pioneer P28 Gasket Kit

Would anyone know where I might buy a gasket kit for a P28. I can make them but that crankcase one is a bit tricky. Thanks Goball

 

[parrisw]

Well it worked Jerry, raised up the lever a little and its good now. Thanks for the help. Vid uploading now. Here is a pic.

Good to hear that Will, the needle in that carb may not be the original and some of the needle valves with the Viton type tip seem to need a little extra height on the metering lever to allow enough flow for those old gas guzzlers. I cannot se a link for the last vid you made of it running nicely.
Pioneerguy600

Hmm? Maybe I posted the old one again?

Here it is.

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[Saw Dr.]

I think Bob (Farley9n) hit on a great idea. Any coil (without bells and whistles) with a long enough high tension lead, bonded to the original Pioneer laminated core should operate normally with no need to re-time anything. Anybody see a flaw in this logic?
Lou
Who makes the most reliable low cost coils (ignition modules)?

The problem will be extracting the laminations from the original coil. This one is designed quite a bit differently than others I have seen. There is not enough room to use a standard winding even if the laminations were extracted. I believe this may also be the reason for it going extinct after just being used on a few models. Also, I have not found a way to extract the original laminations from the Stihl coils without destroying the windings. Once I get this conversion figured out, it should be very simple to make a bracket and re-index the F/W. Even if the timing is 2 degrees off, the saw should run fine. Points engines are frequently off that far. I keep you guys posted on how it turns out. I have a little more to do on the trimmers first. Just built an FS-80 engine a few minutes ago.

How far are you from the guy with the RA for sale on Craigslist?

 

[briantutt]

what the :censored: does "flippy caps suck" mean ???

 

[parrisw]

what the :censored: does "flippy caps suck" mean ???

That's in the tag, it helps the search engine when searching for something. But that flippy caps suck is just a joke.

 

[Mastermind]

what the :censored: does "flippy caps suck" mean ???

Well if ya have to ask.........

 

[SawGarage]

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