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I'm still looking for a rear handle for a P42, I really need the upper and lower, but could get it going with just the upper.
 
Will, I'm not sure you were wearing the socks WITH your sandals in the old one :taped: :dizzy: LOLOL!

ha ha ha ha. I know. but I don't care! lOL LOL, its just easier to slip on my sandals then my shoes, and didn't feel like taking my socks off, since its not that warm out. My wife hates it too, LOL
 
Got to see your latest vid Will and the RA now sounds much better. You can hear the difference plainly now that the exhaust note is deep and not tinny sounding when the saw was running lean. There is a lot that can be done with the porting on these old 103cc engines but since they are vintage engines I suggest just running them stock as they were designed to have torque/grunt to pull that .404 chain. Their reciprocating assemblies are heavy and also designed for low RPM grunt. I keep most of mine stock as they are more collector saws than anything else but one of my 650`s has been warmed up some.
Pioneerguy600
 
Got to see your latest vid Will and the RA now sounds much better. You can hear the difference plainly now that the exhaust note is deep and not tinny sounding when the saw was running lean. There is a lot that can be done with the porting on these old 103cc engines but since they are vintage engines I suggest just running them stock as they were designed to have torque/grunt to pull that .404 chain. Their reciprocating assemblies are heavy and also designed for low RPM grunt. I keep most of mine stock as they are more collector saws than anything else but one of my 650`s has been warmed up some.
Pioneerguy600

Cool, thanks Jerry. I wont be doing anything to this saw. It'll likely stay as is. I may take it out and cut with it to see what they are like, but likely never get used. Probably hang it up in my garage. Now I got a 620s to get going.
 
Cool, thanks Jerry. I wont be doing anything to this saw. It'll likely stay as is. I may take it out and cut with it to see what they are like, but likely never get used. Probably hang it up in my garage. Now I got a 620s to get going.

You will find the 620 just about the same mechanically. The carb is still an HL just a different model no. and the airfilter has been updated to a better setup for stopping sawdust ingestion. The mag cases are made using molds, the RA`s were the last of the sandcast chainsaw cases made by IEL before Pioneer moved to Peterborough.
Pioneerguy600
 
You will find the 620 just about the same mechanically. The carb is still an HL just a different model no. and the airfilter has been updated to a better setup for stopping sawdust ingestion. The mag cases are made using molds, the RA`s were the last of the sandcast chainsaw cases made by IEL before Pioneer moved to Peterborough.
Pioneerguy600

Cool, thanks for the info! Is there anything you don't know? I've also got another RA here, but it needs serious help! Its locked up good.
 
I have a question for you Pioneer gurus. Will a Farmsaw rear handle assembly work on a P42? Thanks for being here guys. :cheers:
 
Yes it will. The upper frame/trigger piece will fit all of the p series saws plus the farmsaw and farmlite. The lower frame piece from the farmlite and farmsaw will fit all but the p50s thru p60s.

Thanks a lot for the info. I've been digging in IPLs trying to determine if I could do the swap. It's great to hear if here! Thanks again! :clap:
 
I have a question for you Pioneer gurus. Will a Farmsaw rear handle assembly work on a P42? Thanks for being here guys. :cheers:

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p40 ,farmsaw, p41. The p40 is longer on the bottom half.
 
Haven't had any luck locating a kit and likely won't so I've decided to make my own. Thanks anyway. Goball

I have an email out to a contact I have used for other old saw kits (like my P25). Haven't heard back yet. Once I do I will get the info or lack of to you.

edit: just got a reply, no luck, sorry...
 
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p40 ,farmsaw, p41. The p40 is longer on the bottom half.

They should be all the same size. The P40 and 41 have the same part no. The farmsaw will have a different no. because it is black, but will still fit. Nice looking group of saws Chris. :cheers:
 
Farmsaw Testing Compression

Is it necessary to remove the decompression valve and plug the port to test compression or can it be tested without removing the valve?
 
Is it necessary to remove the decompression valve and plug the port to test compression or can it be tested without removing the valve?

If it's like a 1073 or P25 you have to remove the lever in the rewind that pushes on the valve, but you can leave the valve in.
 

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