No you saved the curse words for the McCulloch.:hmm3grin2orange:
Pioneer chainsaws
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No you saved the curse words for the McCulloch.:hmm3grin2orange:
Hey Mark, just got back in from running the 850. I'd say you got that chain right the first go-around. Saw cuts like a gear drive should, just chugging away and piling up the chips.
Chris B.
Jeez, can't catch a break with you!:msp_rolleyes: Hasn't hardly been run since I put the rings and piston in. Of course, according to how much fuel I've put in the 700 has had about 4 tanks run thru it, but most of that was leaking thru the cover. Fixed that this morning and am letting it set up.
No high altitude around here, pretty well close to sea level.
Chris B.
Jeeze,..thought I was giving you a break, ..that is one of the best vids I have seen posted of a running Pioneer and you think I am coming down on you...LOL
I could be a lot more critical but you did a good job, I know you are not a long time highly experienced Pioneer saw mechanic, there are a few improvements that you could do but I don`t expect you to know everything about these saws. The compression will build with some more run time and you will hear the difference in the exhaust note, Mark knows what I mean. How easy did the tank come apart?
Pioneerguy600
The tank cover came off pretty easily. Little heat like you said and it popped off with a bit of persuasion. When I brought the saw into my warmer basement I could see fuel bubbling out around the lower bolt heads. The tank was empty but the fumes warmed and built enough pressure do that. Rather confirms what Mark and I found. Anyway, I'll let the sealant set up for a few days and and will fuel it back up when I'm off work again. This tank was an earlier one with no gasket. (I see it listed in the 750 IPL.)
I've not been any type of mechanic for very long. Have had my tractors for around 13 years, and been fooling with chainsaws for 8 years. Some successes, some losses, but I've learned alot. When I started, I wouldn't have known what to do with this thing. Stihls are what I had then, and then as now, Stihls have a huge 'support group.'
Chris B.
I've not been any type of mechanic for very long. Have had my tractors for around 13 years, and been fooling with chainsaws for 8 years. Some successes, some losses, but I've learned alot. When I started, I wouldn't have known what to do with this thing. Stihls are what I had then, and then as now, Stihls have a huge 'support group.'
Chris B.
That old sealant cracked with aging and vibration from the saws so its no suprise to me that it was starting to leak. The Pioneer saws were great saws in their day but of course the newer saws are a lot faster and use different technology to make them that way. For my personal production saws I use the ones you mentioned last, I have most models of them now that I have mostly built from the bottom end up to fine running production saws. The Pioneers are my first love,..they were what I first cut with and learned how to repair/rebuild starting back with a 1958 Pioneer 600, everyone around me had them and the other Pioneer saws of the day. We stuck with them til 1985 or thereabouts and sort of retired them when parts could no longer be had from our local dealer.
Pioneerguy600
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
LOL They didn't last long, I should have mine any day.
I wish they would have put up one for the 1073 I have as well as all the "other" decals on the saw...
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
The HM Restoration Saga
This has to be the most involved I've been with a saw. Lots of time but a lot of learning too. Wouldn't turn over, starter was stuck, slight scoring of the P&C, oil cap missing, bar was a mess, chain rusted up and rocked, air filter cover was smashed down. The fuel tank/handle was cracked apart just above the carb mount area and as you can see it was DIRTY. Boy, was I going to have fun!
Started with a lot of before photos and a total strip down (the saw). I got the handle rewelded, then glass bead blasted everything I was going to paint. I used JD yellow followed by polyurethane clear coat before the color coat was dry. I seem to get a good bond that way. We'll get into details and reassembly in the next post.
This has to be the most involved I've been with a saw. Lots of time but a lot of learning too. Wouldn't turn over, starter was stuck, slight scoring of the P&C, oil cap missing, bar was a mess, chain rusted up and rocked, air filter cover was smashed down. The fuel tank/handle was cracked apart just above the carb mount area and as you can see it was DIRTY. Boy, was I going to have fun!
Started with a lot of before photos and a total strip down (the saw). I got the handle rewelded, then glass bead blasted everything I was going to paint. I used JD yellow followed by polyurethane clear coat before the color coat was dry. I seem to get a good bond that way. We'll get into details and reassembly in the next post.
The bearings were the same as in my Mac SP125C and early Delco alternators except they were sealed. I debated which way to go and decided to stay with sealed bearings. After all, they stand up to a lot of RPMs and time in an alternator.
Seals were a different story. Since the crank O.D. was the same, I was able to use seals for the 125 as well - just had to machine a couple reducers - see the last photo. I packed the back of the seals with grease since they would get little lube from the engine. No problem getting the crank back in and starter/flywheel housing bolted back in place. The bottom ring was stuck in the groove on the exhaust side of the piston. I was able to get it free, then cleaned the gooves and cleaned up the scoring in the piston and cylinder with just a little honing. I think I wound up with 0.004" clearance. Used the original rings as they didn't look bad.
The reed valve is a coil spring loaded disc. The working side was fairly corroded and woundn't seal so I sliced off the pin and made a new one, then reversed the bottom plate. The corroded side you see on the left used to be against the plastic disc. I flattened the good side first on some fine sandpaper stuck to an old copier glass platen. As you can see, it is sealed with an o-ring around it and against another o-ring in the crankcase. These were standard sizes so no problem.
The Tillotson HP is the most complex carb I've worked on. Everything you see in the photo is original. The fuel pump sits at the bottom and picks up a crank pulse through the handle/tank assembly where it connects to the crankcase. Two ball and spring checkvalves keep the fuel moving in one direction. The fuel pump, sediment bowl assembly, fuel outlet from the tank, and the checkvalves were full of corrosion and took a lot of cleaning. I made a new fuel pump diaphragm and main carb diaphragm - got my fingers crossed that they will work. I have a NOS main diaphragm coming just in case. The fuel line is not correct.
I duplicated the original decal as best I could and made one with injet decal paper. I learned one lesson - seal it before you trim it to size otherwise the decal sticks to the backing. Went through three decals to get one on right but I'm still not totally happy with it.
Cleaned up the points and set the gap and timing. Got it all back together yesterday but haven't tried starting it yet. I have spark and 125 compression. The chain is the original Pioneer chain . 404. After cleaning it, looks like a couple links could come out but I'll probably just have a new one made if I do any cutting. That much stretch surely weakened the chain.
Probably a dozen things I had to repair that I didn't mention or don't remember. Anyway, it's together and I'm happy. Can't wait to try starting it.
Seals were a different story. Since the crank O.D. was the same, I was able to use seals for the 125 as well - just had to machine a couple reducers - see the last photo. I packed the back of the seals with grease since they would get little lube from the engine. No problem getting the crank back in and starter/flywheel housing bolted back in place. The bottom ring was stuck in the groove on the exhaust side of the piston. I was able to get it free, then cleaned the gooves and cleaned up the scoring in the piston and cylinder with just a little honing. I think I wound up with 0.004" clearance. Used the original rings as they didn't look bad.
The reed valve is a coil spring loaded disc. The working side was fairly corroded and woundn't seal so I sliced off the pin and made a new one, then reversed the bottom plate. The corroded side you see on the left used to be against the plastic disc. I flattened the good side first on some fine sandpaper stuck to an old copier glass platen. As you can see, it is sealed with an o-ring around it and against another o-ring in the crankcase. These were standard sizes so no problem.
The Tillotson HP is the most complex carb I've worked on. Everything you see in the photo is original. The fuel pump sits at the bottom and picks up a crank pulse through the handle/tank assembly where it connects to the crankcase. Two ball and spring checkvalves keep the fuel moving in one direction. The fuel pump, sediment bowl assembly, fuel outlet from the tank, and the checkvalves were full of corrosion and took a lot of cleaning. I made a new fuel pump diaphragm and main carb diaphragm - got my fingers crossed that they will work. I have a NOS main diaphragm coming just in case. The fuel line is not correct.
I duplicated the original decal as best I could and made one with injet decal paper. I learned one lesson - seal it before you trim it to size otherwise the decal sticks to the backing. Went through three decals to get one on right but I'm still not totally happy with it.
Cleaned up the points and set the gap and timing. Got it all back together yesterday but haven't tried starting it yet. I have spark and 125 compression. The chain is the original Pioneer chain . 404. After cleaning it, looks like a couple links could come out but I'll probably just have a new one made if I do any cutting. That much stretch surely weakened the chain.
Probably a dozen things I had to repair that I didn't mention or don't remember. Anyway, it's together and I'm happy. Can't wait to try starting it.
Looking great so far Buzz,.. looks kinda familiar also.
Pioneerguy600
Pioneerguy600
Goball
ArboristSite Operative
IEL Pioneer
Buzz - that's a great looking saw and I especially like that fancy fuel hose. It'll never rot! Have one of these beast too and it runs but not finished well like yours. Great job.View attachment 174253
Buzz - that's a great looking saw and I especially like that fancy fuel hose. It'll never rot! Have one of these beast too and it runs but not finished well like yours. Great job.View attachment 174253
I have a runner in that model also but it looks kinda like Buzz`s did before the restore. Sure is a beauty since the rebuild.
Pioneerguy600
Pioneerguy600
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