Pioneer chainsaws

[rburg]

I saw my first pioneer saw today in TN . I have seen pictures and video, but never in person. The saw is a p40. There is also a p52 listed in our local craigslist. I have read Mike Acres info on these 2 models, but would like to get some info on these 2 models from those who have used them. Thanks for any info.

 

[DSS]

I saw my first pioneer saw today. I have seen pictures and video, but never in person. The saw is a p40. There is also a p52 listed in our local craigslist. I have read Mike Acres info on these 2 models, but would like to get some info on these 2 models from those who have used them. Thanks for any info.

They are very good saws. I have a p41 and a p50. Torque monsters. A bit heavier than modern saws, but built like a tank. Good A/V system. A 52 will run a 30'' bar fairly easily. They don't have too many issues other than the coils sometimes die with no warning. Check the top handle for cracks around the kill switch and air box. The a/v mounts are often bad, but are still available new.

Very well thought out saws and easy to work on. Way ahead of their time. I wouldn't trade mine for new saws. Chain brake parts are hard to find for them.

The early p40's had a bit of a trouble prone recoil, but the later ones have a better all metal system.

 

[cbfarmall]

I saw my first pioneer saw today. I have seen pictures and video, but never in person. The saw is a p40. There is also a p52 listed in our local craigslist. I have read Mike Acres info on these 2 models, but would like to get some info on these 2 models from those who have used them. Thanks for any info.

You mean you didn't see my 700D at the GTG???

Chris B.

 

[lmcuda]

600 piston rings chosen...

Hi all, i did choose to buy those ring:

Piston Ring 58 x 1.5 mm - Motorbike Scooter Go-Kart on eBay.ca (item 400207900261 end time 06-May-11 16:16:46 EDT)

I'll modify them as someone here already did and it shouldn't be too hard to do as each ends are half large as the rest...

I saw some 57 x 1.5mm rings but they all seem to have a notch at both ends so, prefered to use that route to have both square ends as the original ones, and price is real better too... under 18$ shipping included.

Can someone give me some tips on how install them (position) as the piston doesn't have the notch to be sure of the ring position.
(all not-to-do tips are welcome :msp_rolleyes

Luc

 

[rburg]

I forgot about seeing yours. I don't remember seeing it run, but after working all night I wasn't real alert especially after stopping for lunch.

 

[Pie.n.ear650]

Just picked up these two beautys, somebody should have warned me these things breed fast

 

[WesternSaw]

Pie n ear650

Yep, you have had it now! Every available space will know become occupied by a Pioneer chainsaw.How do I know? It all started with one Pioneer saw for me,now I can't even move in my garage.LOL
Lawrence

 

[Pie.n.ear650]

I,m gonna need a bigger shed :msp_scared:

 

[briantutt]

Just picked up these two beautys, somebody should have warned me these things breed fast

Now you have another candidate for the fancy metal cover with the K&M

 

[DSS]

I,m gonna need a bigger shed :msp_scared:

Yes, we all do.

 

[buzz sawyer]

RA Resto.

Got the carb straightened out and she runs! Sounds like it needs a little more adjustment but I'm happy.
Clutch doesn't want to release though.

YouTube - IEL Pioneer RA.AVI

 

[Arrowhead]

The saw sounds and cuts good Buzz.

Another breathtaking resto!!

 

[Pie.n.ear650]

Nice saw Buzz

Fired up the 620 today and all seems well, apart from not ticking over very well, so good result there.
The p21 ran up easy and seems real sweet, i was going to use it as spares for the P20, but it seems too good for that, so Yes Brian i might be making another cover :msp_biggrin:

 

[northwest coast]

hi i mostly deal with stihl and husky saws but my neighbor asked me to have a look at his pioneer 472.

he said it puked out fuel but that it just got a new carb kit. i couldn't get it to leak anything but i also couldn't get it to run for more than a few seconds. it would fire up and then die right away. fuel line is not leaking nor is the oiler. spark plug looks pretty oily and same with inside the cylinder, any suggestions ? what are the specs for the jets ? should i reset them ?

 

[DSS]

hi i mostly deal with stihl and husky saws but my neighbor asked me to have a look at his pioneer 472.

he said it puked out fuel but that it just got a new carb kit. i couldn't get it to leak anything but i also couldn't get it to run for more than a few seconds. it would fire up and then die right away. fuel line is not leaking nor is the oiler. spark plug looks pretty oily and same with inside the cylinder, any suggestions ? what are the specs for the jets ? should i reset them ?

Never heard of a 472 pioneer. Pics?

 

[paulm]

Pioneer Holiday 1100 won't run at WOT

Hi all,

First time post, google found this fantastic thread for me, unfortunately I'd have to take time off work to read it all!! I have a Pioneer Holiday 1100W saw that won't run properly.

The saw used to be my Dad's but it started to give trouble 10 years ago or more so he bought a new one. It seemed to cut okay, but once it got hot, it would quit. Fast forward 10 years when I decided to either get it running, or get rid of it. I got it going and it cut great for a couple hours, I had never had that saw run better and was damn proud! Next time I tried it still ran good, but started to cut out after several long cuts. Some fuel was bubbling from the vent holes in the gas cap so I wondered if the saw was running hot and too much heat was getting to the fuel. Temp this time was 10C or so versus 0C the first time. I took the saw mostly apart thinking the cooling fins were partially blocked. I cleaned everything up, put it back together and looked up how to adjust the carb, in case it had been running on the lean side. This is when the trouble started.

It will idle fine, but after 30 seconds or so at full throttle, it cuts out as if the fuel was shut off. It will still idle, but opening the throttle kills it. If I hold the choke 3/4 closed, I can get it up to speed (most of the way) and then opening the choke will have it running full speed, but only for a half second before it cuts out. I have had the carb apart with no change from before.

Frustrating because I should be cutting, not fixing!! It's kind of neat using a saw that is more than 10 years older than I, so I'd rather not buy something newer but it may come to that.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

Paul

 

[Lou]

Posted in the "I saw it on Ebay/Craigslist" thread:
Pioneer IEL
Lou

 

[pioneerguy600]

Lou,..that looks like a IEL model AB,that would be a very reasonable price for that saw.

 

[Pie.n.ear650]

Well today i took the top end off the 650 to do naughty things too it. Opened up all the ports, took 20 thou off top of exhaust and squared them off a bit. 20 thou off the bottom of inlet and raised the transfers the same, and took the step out the cases.
The bad news is the piston/cylinder are badly scored, so i am hunting down a suitable o/size piston so i can bore it.
There would have been some pic,s but i lost my phone in the road today and its smoked

 

[briantutt]

Hi all,

First time post, google found this fantastic thread for me, unfortunately I'd have to take time off work to read it all!! I have a Pioneer Holiday 1100W saw that won't run properly.

The saw used to be my Dad's but it started to give trouble 10 years ago or more so he bought a new one. It seemed to cut okay, but once it got hot, it would quit. Fast forward 10 years when I decided to either get it running, or get rid of it. I got it going and it cut great for a couple hours, I had never had that saw run better and was damn proud! Next time I tried it still ran good, but started to cut out after several long cuts. Some fuel was bubbling from the vent holes in the gas cap so I wondered if the saw was running hot and too much heat was getting to the fuel. Temp this time was 10C or so versus 0C the first time. I took the saw mostly apart thinking the cooling fins were partially blocked. I cleaned everything up, put it back together and looked up how to adjust the carb, in case it had been running on the lean side. This is when the trouble started.

It will idle fine, but after 30 seconds or so at full throttle, it cuts out as if the fuel was shut off. It will still idle, but opening the throttle kills it. If I hold the choke 3/4 closed, I can get it up to speed (most of the way) and then opening the choke will have it running full speed, but only for a half second before it cuts out. I have had the carb apart with no change from before.

Frustrating because I should be cutting, not fixing!! It's kind of neat using a saw that is more than 10 years older than I, so I'd rather not buy something newer but it may come to that.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

Paul

Sounds like a carb/fuel problem. I would get a rebuild kit for the carb and put new fuel lines and a new fuel filter in it. This has become standard operation procedure for me on any saw I revive because I got frustrated fighting goofy issues like that.