The crank in a p52 is the same as a p62, The only real difference is the p&c, that top frame piece could have been changed and thats why no manual oiler. The top frames will fit from p40 thru pp655, bottom frames are shorter for the p40 series.
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mile9socounty
Two-Stroke Swope
So in a nut shell. What your saying is I could have a P50 series crank case with a P60 series P&C inside of it? Rock on. I can tell you this, before I decided to take the Green Machine a part, I would turn the fly wheel. It felt like the piston or crank was catching on something.
Right now I need a fly wheel puller to get two FW's off. Tomorrow when I go to my physical therapy, I'm going to swing by and see if Rich will pull them off.
No one on the P45 piston? Oh, and I also need a fly wheel for a P50's/P60's as well.
I might actually need quite a few parts for the P45. I cleaned out the box and most of the fastener's were there, just some other key parts missing.
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mile9socounty
Two-Stroke Swope
Never mind..... The crank case is a P52.... :censored:
The crankcases for the P-50/51/52 and P-60/61/62 are the same...
propliner
ArboristSite Guru
Mile9, sorry to chime in so late, but you look to have a P52 body (black color) with a P62 cylinder. The P52 Western had the big spikes, full wrap handle and the muffler with the top exit.
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lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
can one of you tell me how old the P26 is ? and what do they sell for parts saw that is
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crane
Addicted to ArboristSite
Iel Hc
Sorry to butt in the middle of the P series conversation,
Would any of you have a clear picture of how the end of the carb attaches to the air box on an IEL HC saw. Just got it up an running this afternoon and now know that it's a runner and am tracking down the missing parts. The gap is only about 1/2-3/4 inch wide. Wondered if it was a rubber boot or metal or what. Also, the saw came with a 16" bar....on closer inspection, it turns out someone has improvised with a Mac bar. Acres has no listing for bar pattern. Anyone know what it takes or have a pic?
Thanks, Sorry again to butt in
Drew
Sorry to butt in the middle of the P series conversation,
Would any of you have a clear picture of how the end of the carb attaches to the air box on an IEL HC saw. Just got it up an running this afternoon and now know that it's a runner and am tracking down the missing parts. The gap is only about 1/2-3/4 inch wide. Wondered if it was a rubber boot or metal or what. Also, the saw came with a 16" bar....on closer inspection, it turns out someone has improvised with a Mac bar. Acres has no listing for bar pattern. Anyone know what it takes or have a pic?
Thanks, Sorry again to butt in
Drew
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propliner
ArboristSite Guru
Plantbiologist, you either have a P50 or a P51 there. If you have a 2-piece ignition and no decomp button, then you probably have a P50. If you have a 1-piece ignition and a decomp valve then you likely have a P51. If you have a 1-piece ignition and no decomp valve, then you likely have a P51S.
Also: The P50 came with a rounded pull-starter handle with the metal in the top. The P51 came with the flat Fuetron-type filter and blowback tube.
Also: The P50 came with a rounded pull-starter handle with the metal in the top. The P51 came with the flat Fuetron-type filter and blowback tube.
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mile9socounty
Two-Stroke Swope
Well guys thank you. No need to apologize. I didn't find out it was a P52 crank case until I pulled it out of the dish washer. What was left of the stick had come off. Turned it in the light and you could see where the 52 had once been on there. Now it's time to dig into and get them running.
Crane you are on the correct Thread to post your questions and most members on here expect to see questions posted about IEL and Pioneer saws here, not just the P Series.
If no one else has the pict you are saking for I will pull the covers off one of my HC`S and take a pict for you. The HC uses a Pioneer Dura Rail bar or any other Pioneer bar with the small stud Pioneer pattern. I will take some picts this evening and post.
Pioneerguy600
crane
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks Jerry,
I can almost see it in the pics you posted earlier in this thread with your HC, but the angle was just off a bit. Rebuilt the carb and hooked it back up, and the saw fired right away. Sounds really good and crisp for its age. I have some work ahead of me with the spark plug wire(it needs some care), as well as the fuel bowl. It is chipped and scratched and leaks. I'll post some pics here later tonite.
I can almost see it in the pics you posted earlier in this thread with your HC, but the angle was just off a bit. Rebuilt the carb and hooked it back up, and the saw fired right away. Sounds really good and crisp for its age. I have some work ahead of me with the spark plug wire(it needs some care), as well as the fuel bowl. It is chipped and scratched and leaks. I'll post some pics here later tonite.
PB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks! When I get home I am tempted to look at the bore, but I hate to take apart a functioning saw. Kind of going against my instincts.
The bottom bar is the correct bar for your HC but all the rest of them would fit you just don`t need the holes for the chain adjuster Did you remove your muffler and check the exhaust ports, these saws had a habit of carbon build up from the old oil that was used to mix with the gas. Check out the finish on your piston, different right?
Pioneerguy600
crane
Addicted to ArboristSite
Iel Hc
Thanks for the pic of the bars. By just sheer coincidence, a mechanic friend of mine gave me a brand new Durarail bar he had laying around-26". Was going to put it on my NU-17, as it has only a 12" bar. Although, my Durarail bar is only 3" wide. The old Mac bar and the one on my RA are closer to 4" Thought it might look a little lost on the HC. As a side note, what would be the idea of a 12" bar on a NU-17?? I mean that saw is rated for close to 90cc's, seems kinda pointless...
Drew
Thanks for the pic of the bars. By just sheer coincidence, a mechanic friend of mine gave me a brand new Durarail bar he had laying around-26". Was going to put it on my NU-17, as it has only a 12" bar. Although, my Durarail bar is only 3" wide. The old Mac bar and the one on my RA are closer to 4" Thought it might look a little lost on the HC. As a side note, what would be the idea of a 12" bar on a NU-17?? I mean that saw is rated for close to 90cc's, seems kinda pointless...
Drew
crane
Addicted to ArboristSite
Below is a close up of the gap between the carb and the air intake. Just wondered what piece I'm missing.
The saw needs a little work in places. Someone has patched up the bottom of the recoil cover. I think it was a quick fix on the handle bar bracket that got carried away. Hope there are no surprises when I pop the old rivets and see underneath.
The rest is just regular fix and repair. The plastic fuel bowl is in rough shape. It is really stained and with all the chips and scratches, I can't get it to seal. I'll spend some time with a razor blade and see if I can't clean it up a bit. The plug wire has to potential to ground out on just about everything but the plug end. Will have to figure out a way to stick that nail part in the wire end without it coming out and contacting any metal.
Jerry, Thanks for the muffler advice. I did pull it off and there was carbon deposits to be sure. Had a quick look in the cylinder for potential problems before I tried to start it. I admit, that I did'nt notice the composition of the piston. Will look at it better in the days to come.
Thanks for the help and advice
Drew
The saw needs a little work in places. Someone has patched up the bottom of the recoil cover. I think it was a quick fix on the handle bar bracket that got carried away. Hope there are no surprises when I pop the old rivets and see underneath.
The rest is just regular fix and repair. The plastic fuel bowl is in rough shape. It is really stained and with all the chips and scratches, I can't get it to seal. I'll spend some time with a razor blade and see if I can't clean it up a bit. The plug wire has to potential to ground out on just about everything but the plug end. Will have to figure out a way to stick that nail part in the wire end without it coming out and contacting any metal.
Jerry, Thanks for the muffler advice. I did pull it off and there was carbon deposits to be sure. Had a quick look in the cylinder for potential problems before I tried to start it. I admit, that I did'nt notice the composition of the piston. Will look at it better in the days to come.
Thanks for the help and advice
Drew
Below is a close up of the gap between the carb and the air intake. Just wondered what piece I'm missing.
The saw needs a little work in places. Someone has patched up the bottom of the recoil cover. I think it was a quick fix on the handle bar bracket that got carried away. Hope there are no surprises when I pop the old rivets and see underneath.
The rest is just regular fix and repair. The plastic fuel bowl is in rough shape. It is really stained and with all the chips and scratches, I can't get it to seal. I'll spend some time with a razor blade and see if I can't clean it up a bit. The plug wire has to potential to ground out on just about everything but the plug end. Will have to figure out a way to stick that nail part in the wire end without it coming out and contacting any metal.
Jerry, Thanks for the muffler advice. I did pull it off and there was carbon deposits to be sure. Had a quick look in the cylinder for potential problems before I tried to start it. I admit, that I did'nt notice the composition of the piston. Will look at it better in the days to come.
Thanks for the help and advice
Drew
Crane;
I thought that I would get a chance to take picts this evening after work but had to work late welding up a late show project. The piece that goes between the airfilter and the carb is a molded black rubber adapter. The airfilter is a long cylindrical tube made up of layers of filter fabric and wire mesh with rubber caps on the ends which sits in a metal cup that forms the base for the airfilter and airbox, it slips up behind the gastank and held in place with a metal bail type clip. I will take and post picts for you asap.
Pioneerguy600
crane
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep, I got all the filter parts, just missing the piece at the back of the carb. No rush on the pics- whenever you have time. If I get a good look maybe I can make something similiar.
Thanks Jerry
Any thoughts on the NU-17 12" bar??? Was it purpose designed for something? The saw is just too heavy for it to be for lite limbing. Are your Dura rail bars the wide(4"), or the narrower(3")?
Drew
The P-series are much like the McCullochs in that you'll often find "Frankensaws" Pieced together out of whatever was out back at the time it broke. Lots of parts will interchange from one to another. The thing you have to watch is the ignitions. So far I have about 10 different ones in my database I'm building for these saws. Some use the same flywheels & some don't; some have different mounting holes & won't work with other cylinders, some are two piece units, etc.
Below is a close up of the gap between the carb and the air intake. Just wondered what piece I'm missing.
The saw needs a little work in places. Someone has patched up the bottom of the recoil cover. I think it was a quick fix on the handle bar bracket that got carried away. Hope there are no surprises when I pop the old rivets and see underneath.
The rest is just regular fix and repair. The plastic fuel bowl is in rough shape. It is really stained and with all the chips and scratches, I can't get it to seal. I'll spend some time with a razor blade and see if I can't clean it up a bit. The plug wire has to potential to ground out on just about everything but the plug end. Will have to figure out a way to stick that nail part in the wire end without it coming out and contacting any metal.
Jerry, Thanks for the muffler advice. I did pull it off and there was carbon deposits to be sure. Had a quick look in the cylinder for potential problems before I tried to start it. I admit, that I did'nt notice the composition of the piston. Will look at it better in the days to come.
Thanks for the help and advice
Drew
It's part #HC-392 in the diagram. Good luck with your search.
Crane;
I had a better look at the pict you have posted and can now see [ put my glasses on] that the part you are asking about is the rubber doughnut shaped piece with two ears that have locator pins, that push into the corresponding holes in the carb to help hold it in place. I will see what I can do for picts.
Pioneerguy600
I had a better look at the pict you have posted and can now see [ put my glasses on] that the part you are asking about is the rubber doughnut shaped piece with two ears that have locator pins, that push into the corresponding holes in the carb to help hold it in place. I will see what I can do for picts.
Pioneerguy600
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