Pioneer chainsaws

[pioneerguy600]

Ok Crane ,this is the rubber doughnut that fits between the carb and the airbox on the HC, just for you. LOL
Pioneerguy600

 

[pioneerguy600]

Below is a close up of the gap between the carb and the air intake. Just wondered what piece I'm missing.

The saw needs a little work in places. Someone has patched up the bottom of the recoil cover. I think it was a quick fix on the handle bar bracket that got carried away. Hope there are no surprises when I pop the old rivets and see underneath.

The rest is just regular fix and repair. The plastic fuel bowl is in rough shape. It is really stained and with all the chips and scratches, I can't get it to seal. I'll spend some time with a razor blade and see if I can't clean it up a bit. The plug wire has to potential to ground out on just about everything but the plug end. Will have to figure out a way to stick that nail part in the wire end without it coming out and contacting any metal.

Jerry, Thanks for the muffler advice. I did pull it off and there was carbon deposits to be sure. Had a quick look in the cylinder for potential problems before I tried to start it. I admit, that I did'nt notice the composition of the piston. Will look at it better in the days to come.

Thanks for the help and advice

Drew

To help seal the old plastic ring to the fuel bowl you can wrap it with the pink gas resistant teflon tape. Wrap it through the ring around and around until there is a single layer with slightly overlapped edges all the way around the ring, it has worked for me on some rings that were quite badly pitted.
Pioneerguy600

 

[crane]

Ok Crane ,this is the rubber doughnut that fits between the carb and the airbox on the HC, just for you. LOL
Pioneerguy600

GULP!!....That one could be "fun" to manufacture??! Thanks for taking the time to post those pics. It's a real outside stretch....but I'll check with the guy I got it from. Maybe he has it laying around his shop somewhere's, like I said a real stretch, but nothing ventured nothing gained.
Drew

 

[pioneerguy600]

GULP!!....That one could be "fun" to manufacture??! Thanks for taking the time to post those pics. It's a real outside stretch....but I'll check with the guy I got it from. Maybe he has it laying around his shop somewhere's, like I said a real stretch, but nothing ventured nothing gained.
Drew

I currently have an HC that I am in the process of cleaning up, removing all the paint from every piece and then do a rebuild and repaint it. Will take some picts and post a few as I go along. It would be a chore to make that piece but I have made just about anything that I cant find for old saws, heck it might not be stock but as long as it works and looks reasonable. I am quite lucky on the one I am doing now in that it is complete in every way, nothing broken or missing,original one owner saw so just strip and clean, repair a couple small things like the oiler pump rod and the throttle rod and spring, the gas tank is badly varnished and the gas lines and carb are really nasty but that`s nothing new there. The old Tilly will clean up and I have the full rebuild kits to get it back to operating as new. It will make a real nice running mantle piece. LOL
Pioneerguy600

 

[Jacob J.]

Hey Jerry- are you using some kind of paint stripper on your HC or are you sand/soda blasting parts? I have a HM that I'm going to do the same to later this spring. I'll probably completely refurbish my RA hotrod also.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Hey Jerry- are you using some kind of paint stripper on your HC or are you sand/soda blasting parts? I have a HM that I'm going to do the same to later this spring. I'll probably completely refurbish my RA hotrod also.

Jacob;
I have all the blasting media available to me and use crushed walnut shells for a lot of blasting on the old soft painted chainsaws like the Pioneers. I do pre soak them in a solution that I make up and it nearly removes all the paint in an overnight soak. I will take a pict of the HC today and show what an overnight soak has done to it before I blast any thing. The metal comes out nice and shinny. When I do soda blasting it does a real good job but the cleanup of the parts after to remove the media takes a lot more work. I boil all the parts after stripping them in hot water and liquid degreaser then rinse very good with clear hot water and that leaves them squeaky clean, they dry rapidly and as soon as possible I spray them with etch primer. Magnesium will start to tarnish almost immediately after stripping it bare so no more than 10-15 mins after the clear rinse I apply the primer and it will protect the magnesium for weeks but I will apply the paint in most cases in less than an hour after applying the primer. I use urethane multi component paint and once it hardens it is very resistant to gasoline and durable to wear and tear. Oh ,the 066 is one sweet saw also,cut a truckload of hardwood with it and it is impressive.
Pioneerguy600

 

[PB]

Jacob;
I have all the blasting media available to me and use crushed walnut shells for a lot of blasting on the old soft painted chainsaws like the Pioneers. I do pre soak them in a solution that I make up and it nearly removes all the paint in an overnight soak. I will take a pict of the HC today and show what an overnight soak has done to it before I blast any thing. The metal comes out nice and shinny. When I do soda blasting it does a real good job but the cleanup of the parts after to remove the media takes a lot more work. I boil all the parts after stripping them in hot water and liquid degreaser then rinse very good with clear hot water and that leaves them squeaky clean, they dry rapidly and as soon as possible I spray them with etch primer. Magnesium will start to tarnish almost immediately after stripping it bare so no more than 10-15 mins after the clear rinse I apply the primer and it will protect the magnesium for weeks but I will apply the paint in most cases in less than an hour after applying the primer. I use urethane multi component paint and once it hardens it is very resistant to gasoline and durable to wear and tear. Oh ,the 066 is one sweet saw also,cut a truckload of hardwood with it and it is impressive.
Pioneerguy600

Hey Jerry, what brand of paint do you use? I want to do up some of my JReds, but want to do it right. I just wish the colors hadn't changed throughout the years, can't just use one color.

 

[crane]

I use urethane multi component paint and once it hardens it is very resistant to gasoline and durable to wear and tear.
Pioneerguy600

Could you explain this paint a little more? Is it one of the two part paints where hardener has to be mixed in. Sorry, I'm a bit of a paint "Newbie". Do you apply it with an air paint gun or is it in the spray bombs? I'm getting ready to paint a Homelite with Dupli color (acrylic lacquer). Was going to bake the paint after, to harden it. The primer the auto store sold me looks like basic grey metal primer. No ingredients on the can. Am I traveling down a road to disappointment??? This was going to be my test (painting) saw. After it's all done, can I clear coat it, over the decals I ordered?
I've done a lot of searches on paint, but they all talk about paint in a way that leaves a lay-man lost in translation.
Thanks
Drew

 

[pioneerguy600]

The paint I am currently using is Nason and I have used most of the major paint manufacturers over the years painting automobiles and a lot of heavy duty machinery. We have a maritime climate here with a lot of moisture and salt in the air and I have found this brand of paint to stand up really well on machinery that is parked outside year round so it proved its durability. I did a post on the thread , Painting Magnesium OP`ed by FATGUY. All the particulars on the paint and primer are posted there. I have my paint custom mixed so I cannot tell anyone a particular color I use. The paint supplier I buy from custom mixes each batch and many times I will go back and get him to change it subtly and he can mix paint! I have known him for 39 years and he has been mixing paint longer than that so he knows his colors. Most paint suppliers nowadays have a paint scanner that can scan a painted part and come up with a formula to mix the paint to but it seldom comes out perfect but it is a start and if the guy mixing your paint knows what he is doing like mine does he can change it to a near perfect match by adding a drop or two of color that will make the original mix fit the bill to a T.
Currently I paint with one of several HVLP spray guns that vary with tip sizes and capacities and they lay a real nice pattern and film on the parts with nary a run and that is a little difficult due to the varied angles and curves a chainsaw throws at the painter. I string all the individual parts on a clothesline setup and wire the pieces so that they don`t turn or twist when the spray pressure hits them and this also helps prevent runs and overspray.
The multi component paints do not require baking or heat treatment and it will set to a very durable finish , it dries to the touch in a couple hours. It can be made to dry faster by adding a little more catalyst or hardener but I find the paint to set too hard and it will chip easier and that is not what I want for a working chainsaw. The best thing for someone that is thinking about using this paint that is not familiar with spray painting is to get the data sheet for the particular paint you are intending to use and read until you understand the sequences and timing plus the mixing and application instructions that come for each different brand and type of paint. You would never believe the paint jobs that I see that was done with the best of intentions but the painter didn`t bother to read the instructions and went ahead and applied the paint either the mix was improper, the timing between coats , the air pressure, water in the airline, wrong tip size on the spray gun, adding something they should not or forgetting some component that is required all comes out as a botched job. Remember also that the painting itself is the last part of the job you want to rush through, the preparation of the surfaces will determine the outcome to a greater extent than the spraying of the paint. Other than all the above its a piece of cake. LOL
Pioneerguy600

 

[pioneerguy600]

Could you explain this paint a little more? Is it one of the two part paints where hardener has to be mixed in. Sorry, I'm a bit of a paint "Newbie". Do you apply it with an air paint gun or is it in the spray bombs? I'm getting ready to paint a Homelite with Dupli color (acrylic lacquer). Was going to bake the paint after, to harden it. The primer the auto store sold me looks like basic grey metal primer. No ingredients on the can. Am I traveling down a road to disappointment??? This was going to be my test (painting) saw. After it's all done, can I clear coat it, over the decals I ordered?
I've done a lot of searches on paint, but they all talk about paint in a way that leaves a lay-man lost in translation.
Thanks
Drew

If you want a durable finish for a working chainsaw I would not recommend any rattle can spray paint. I tell the guys that come to the shop with rattle cans to shake them until the rattle stops and then it will be ready to paint a saw with. The best primer I have found for saws is the etching type and it can be found in rattle cans at automotive paint supply outlets, it applies OK but the pattern is usually drippy and inconsistent with a lot of splatter. If it is used sanding should be done between coats and before applying the color over it. With the HVLP spray gun applied primer no sanding is needed , the primer is smooth and flat and the paint applies over it really smooth also.
If the saw will just sit on a shelf and not be used then by all means use a rattle can but be careful if gasoline gets spilled on it . I have heard and read that baking helps to toughen the can applied paints, we used to bake enamel paint on automobiles many years ago and that helped with curing the paint so I guess that `s what the paint in the cans must be. Either way I am sure the saw will look better after you have painted it than left the way it currently is, best of luck with either route you take on painting that old magnesium.
Pioneerguy600

 

[pioneerguy600]

Here is the HC that I have just started to clean up to get ready for a rebuild and paint job.Its in really good shape for its age and all complete. There is a couple of stripped threads and a bunch of missing and non OEM bolts etc but all the magnesium parts are there and nothing broken or even cracked.

Pioneerguy600

 

[crane]

The paint I am currently using is Nason and I have used most of the major paint manufacturers over the years ................................................................................................... Other than all the above its a piece of cake. LOL
Pioneerguy600

wow..... Have to admit, that's a lot to take in. On the other hand I've seen posted pics of your work........Maybe I should start making some inquiries at my local paint shop.
Thanks for the info

Drew

 

[propliner]

Cylinder needed

Hi guys, would anyone happen to have a P42 cylinder for sale, new or used? I'm working on a Pioneer/Partner P42 and it looks like the little pin that holds the ring from rotating melted through the top of the piston and broke free, destroying the top end.
I'd be willing to trade a P50 series or P60 series cylinder or even a new P41 cylinder.
I have a feeling this jug might be hard to find.

 

[pioneerman]

Have you checked your Poulan Pro dealer for availability of new parts? There was a P42 complete short block on ebay a couple of weeks back, but it is sold now. I would check out ebay as they do come on every once in a while.

 

[mile9socounty]

Hi guys, would anyone happen to have a P42 cylinder for sale, new or used? I'm working on a Pioneer/Partner P42 and it looks like the little pin that holds the ring from rotating melted through the top of the piston and broke free, destroying the top end.
I'd be willing to trade a P50 series or P60 series cylinder or even a new P41 cylinder.
I have a feeling this jug might be hard to find.

I have a jug at home for a P42 if you want it. I really don't think I need to P42's. I already have one and I want to get the P45 running. So let me know what you think.

Kenny

 

[WesternSaw]

A Few Things

Hi Fellas
Well it's good to see some action on this thread after being stagnant for awhile.Yeah I know what have I contributed lately.Nothing.But I have had a few priority's lately so those had to come first.The good news is that I have a Pioneer model 1200A coming soon.This will mean that I will have a 1200 and a 1200A,I have not really looked at the specs to find out the differences but will look at them soon,and I have a repair manual for the 1200A so that will definitely be good for me.Man I have seen some nice Pioneers for sale lately but that MONEY thing always get's in the way.I have also put feelers out on several leads to Pioneer related stuff and feel that I will over extend myself if they all pan out.I am slowly gathering more manuals and IPL's for Pioneers as well.If anyone needs something copied or scanned I will see if I have it if you let me know.I think anything related to Pioneers would be better served if people would post it on this Pioneer thread where the GURUS could help them out.Propliner did you try that fellow on Ebay Killans online in search for your part.Do not know anything about him though.Pioneerguy 600 what about using an airbrush for painting chainsaw parts or would fooling around with that small of a paint reservoir be a hassle.What's every ones view of the Pioneer 1200A or the 1200.The fellow I am buying it from said a repair guy told him there is no demand for them.
Lawrence

 

[crane]

Hi Fellas
Well it's good to see some action on this thread after being stagnant for awhile.Yeah I know what have I contributed lately.Nothing.But I have had a few priority's lately so those had to come first.The good news is that I have a Pioneer model 1200A coming soon.This will mean that I will have a 1200 and a 1200A,I have not really looked at the specs to find out the differences but will look at them soon,and I have a repair manual for the 1200A so that will definitely be good for me.Man I have seen some nice Pioneers for sale lately but that MONEY thing always get's in the way.I have also put feelers out on several leads to Pioneer related stuff and feel that I will over extend myself if they all pan out.I am slowly gathering more manuals and IPL's for Pioneers as well.If anyone needs something copied or scanned I will see if I have it if you let me know.I think anything related to Pioneers would be better served if people would post it on this Pioneer thread where the GURUS could help them out.Propliner did you try that fellow on Ebay Killans online in search for your part.Do not know anything about him though.Pioneerguy 600 what about using an airbrush for painting chainsaw parts or would fooling around with that small of a paint reservoir be a hassle.What's every ones view of the Pioneer 1200A or the 1200.The fellow I am buying it from said a repair guy told him there is no demand for them.
Lawrence

I have a 1200 that I picked up last year. It needs a carb kit, but I cut a little wood with it. Seems to be a nice saw. I liked the layout and balance for an old saw. For the short time I ran it(barring the carb issue), seemed like it had enough jam. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. I'm no expert, But I think the only difference between the two is the Auto has positive crankcase pressure to oil the bar and a flow adjuster. I believe that it also has the manual oiler too. I have part of the IPL for it, I can send it along if you want. Just let me know.
Drew

 

[pioneerman]

The IPL that I have shows the 1200A with an oil pump running off the crankshaft for auto oiling. The 1200 is manual oiling only.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Petesoldsaw; the 1200 is as good as any ot the older Pioneer chainsaws as they were all built really solidly. There is little demand for them though as they have no special interest to collectors, are not rare by any means and are not a big or powerful saw. They are just neat old saws that are worth whatever their owner thinks they are. As for using an airbrush for painting a chainsaw i would not say it could not be used but it would be too much of a PITA for me. I am too used to mixing and loading my HVLP guns with just enough paint or primer just the one time to do a saw with little or no left over mixed product to dispose of. The products that I use once mixed have to be used up inside 24 hrs if kept in a cold storage. This stuff is quite expensive so lets not wase it.
Before I started spraying with a HVLP guns I used siphon cup guns like my De Vilbiss JGA and it worked just as good but there was always too much product left in the bottom of the cup that got dumped out and with the cost of the products today its cheaper in the long run to buy and use HVLP. You could get an inexpensive HVLP gun from places like Princess auto or the auto supply houses and I have seen them for less than a hundred dollars but have not tried one of them but they should be good for painting things small like chainsaws.
Pioneerguy600

 

[WesternSaw]

Reply to you guys

Crane-Thanks for the offer crane.I think I have the IPL for the 1200,but I will check

Pioneerman-Thank you for the info on the two saws,appreciated

Pioneerguy600-Thanks for the info on the airbrush.I sent you an email yesterday to your computer.Let me know if the Flyer was readable ,if not I can send it larger.

Thanks Again Fellas
Lawrence