Pioneer chainsaws

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thanks for the info on removing the head i heated and soaked it with spray and got it free i think the rings were stuck from sitting
i lubed the cylinder the cylinder is in great shape not pitted from rust iam really happy with the way its turning out i will be fixing recoil rope
the muffler had a mudd dobbers nest in it cleaned up and going to order a carb kit for it i will post more as i get further along and again thanks for all the info :msp_thumbsup:
 
Here's a few pics of my recent P65.

IMG_8304.jpg


IMG_8290.jpg


IMG_8298.jpg


IMG_8308.jpg

Thats a very nice P65. They are a rare bird. I picked one up last year. A good running saw, just needed a good cleaning and a few parts.
DSCF0723.jpg
 
thanks for the info on removing the head i heated and soaked it with spray and got it free i think the rings were stuck from sitting
i lubed the cylinder the cylinder is in great shape not pitted from rust iam really happy with the way its turning out i will be fixing recoil rope
the muffler had a mudd dobbers nest in it cleaned up and going to order a carb kit for it i will post more as i get further along and again thanks for all the info :msp_thumbsup:

Make sure the bottom end is clean: no water, corrosion or muck. If you see crap, you'll likely have to split the saw, clean it all out, and probably change the bearings and seals. Not the easiest saw to split, but the bearings and seals are easy enough. 6203C3 for the mains, CR6451 for the magneto side seal, CR6582 for the clutch side. If you have to change the mag seal, you will have to split the case regardless.

I love these saws because are they are so straight-forward and use quite common parts. Even the ignition is shared with a lot of Homelites. When you have them right, they are dead-nuts reliable starters.

Does yours still have the starter foothold? What's the condition of the top cover?

Chris B.
 
I notice on Ed's P65 that the tag reads P65CB.
What doe's the CB stand for. I can only assume
chain brake. My P65 has CBW and assuming the
W is for western. But what makes a western a
western. as my saw looks like Ed's but mine
doesn't say western anywhere on it.




Lee
 
P41 & P50 sprocket chang, nut isright hand thread correct?

I am switching sprockets on a P41 & P50 and want to know which way to turn clutch nut to remove? counter clockwise to remove? i have a PP455 block and both the flywheel side and clutch side are righthand thread.

someone let me know please

thanks
 
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I am switching sprockets on a P41 & P50 and want to know which way to turn clutch nut to remove? counter clockwise to remove? i have a PP455 block and both the flywheel side and clutch side are righthand thread.

someone let me know please

thanks

Stephen, the clutch nut is righthanded threads. Once you remove the nut, you need to pry the clutch off, The shaft is splined.
If you run into any problems... gimme a call.
 
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I notice on Ed's P65 that the tag reads P65CB.
What doe's the CB stand for. I can only assume
chain brake. My P65 has CBW and assuming the
W is for western. But what makes a western a
western. as my saw looks like Ed's but mine
doesn't say western anywhere on it.




Lee

Lee, I used to think the W meant western also, and it very well may.... but I have my doubts.
Most all of my Pioneer/Partner saws have the CBW, even those without the full wrap, large spikes, and large bore carb.
The Western logo was only on the Pioneer saws. Once Partner joined, they made "High Performance" the standard.
I have a few that only have numbers on the name plate... no model at all. :msp_confused:
Seems like there numbering was quite random.
 
Stephen, the clutch nut is righthanded threads. Once you remove the nut, you need to pry the clutch off, The shaft is splined.
If you run into any problems... gimme a call.

and i continue to learn about old saws and bars. My oregon bar is a 3/8 X 050 with a 404 X 063 sprocket nose tip. i hope to be getting some 050 X 404 from a member next week. i know i could change the tip and run 3/8 X 050 but why not keep it old school.
 
Hi guys,

Just picked up a free 3270SC over the Christmas break, so I'll probably have some questions on it as I try to get it running!

Reason I'm posting today is I'm looking for some parts for my father-in-laws P28. 2 of the 3 rubber shock absorbers (not sure if that's what they're called) mounting the handle the body have broken in half. Looking for those and any mounting hardware that comes with them... sort of looks like one end has the male end of the screw moulded into the rubber and the other end has the female end moulded in with a screw to fasten it?

Just wondering if anyone has any pics of what I'm looking for and/or the proper name for the parts.

Thanks

img4053t.jpg


img4052h.jpg
 
They're called buffers or isolaters. One end screws into the handle and the other end is held by a flathead screw. Those broken pieces are tough to get out. Spray some penetrant in there and let it soak.

I don't have any extras and I don't really know where to send you for some. I have seen them on ebay from time to time. You can try sending these guys an email:

Rottmansales.com.
 
Hi guys,

Just picked up a free 3270SC over the Christmas break, so I'll probably have some questions on it as I try to get it running!

Reason I'm posting today is I'm looking for some parts for my father-in-laws P28. 2 of the 3 rubber shock absorbers (not sure if that's what they're called) mounting the handle the body have broken in half. Looking for those and any mounting hardware that comes with them... sort of looks like one end has the male end of the screw moulded into the rubber and the other end has the female end moulded in with a screw to fasten it?

Just wondering if anyone has any pics of what I'm looking for and/or the proper name for the parts.

Thanks

img4053t.jpg


img4052h.jpg



You need AV mounts, the part numbers are, 430910, there are 4 of them.
 
Thanks guys, I'll keep an eye on ebay and shot emails to chainsawr and and rottmansales!
 
AV mounts/ buffers/ isolators

If you can find a junk saw or basket case, the mounts are often usable. They're pretty burly. DSS had good advice about removing old ones.

Good luck!
 
MacMaster-Carr has rubber isolators used for base mounting small electric motors. If I remember correctly, they had a small stud on each end of the rubber cylinder. About 1/4"-20 size.

Maybe one of them would work. They were used on a Lombard front wrap.
 

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