Pioneer chainsaws

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Crankshaft.........................425311
connecting rod.....................470168
rod bearing roller...............425089
wrist pin.............................425641
wrist pin brng.....................425060


Post the part numbers and I'll check 'em against the IPL's I have. P types come as rod/crank assemblies.

Carl.

I'll dig them out this weekend and post the p/n's
 
Don't think Bantasaw will stock any OMC kits for the 700. I've gotten several repros from Joe Salva (Sugar Creek Supply) and they have been excellent. Ask anyone who ran my restored 750 at the last GTG. The stupid primer is another story entirely.

BTW, nice 700. If you don't feel up to the task, I'll take it off your hands.

Chris B.


Hey guys, just (finally) starting a rebuild on a Pioneer 700D, had the hardest time finding rebuild parts for the carb until I found this thread.

Given the amount of work it took to find carb parts, that comment about the primer has me a little worried.

Can anybody point me in the direction of parts or info on rebuilding/refurbishing the primer, or am I going to be working it out from scratch?



The saw is in pretty good shape, has almost all it's paint. It's been sitting under the old mans workbench for as long as I can remember, so I told him I was inheriting it. I'm hoping with the fuel system worked out, it'll fire right up.
I'll try to get some pics up tonight.


Thanks

Matt
 
Hey guys, just (finally) starting a rebuild on a Pioneer 700D, had the hardest time finding rebuild parts for the carb until I found this thread.

Given the amount of work it took to find carb parts, that comment about the primer has me a little worried.

Can anybody point me in the direction of parts or info on rebuilding/refurbishing the primer, or am I going to be working it out from scratch?



The saw is in pretty good shape, has almost all it's paint. It's been sitting under the old mans workbench for as long as I can remember, so I told him I was inheriting it. I'm hoping with the fuel system worked out, it'll fire right up.
I'll try to get some pics up tonight.


Thanks

Matt


Hi Matt, welcome to AS!

Lots of helpful folks around here.

Post pix of the saw when you've the chance.
 
Good little saws

Pioneer 2071 with original bar and maybe chain, has pioneer stamped on chain.

These are great little saws to play with quite strong as they are 50cc but will numb your hands in about 15 minutes and also boil gas as you refill the tank on a hot day. But great fun to own and run, nice one!

Lee:rock:
 
Hc

Took a little time to pull the covers off the HC I bought. The saw appears to be complete except for the missing medallion on the top cover. Thankfully, the rattle can paint the guy has all over the saw comes of with a fingernail scratch. Sort of like the original paint. :hmm3grin2orange:
I'll have to put a piece of fuel line on it clean the carb (Tillotson HL) and see if it will run.
I am guessing that a .404 chain will work on this saw?

Would anyone have an IPL for an HC they could share with me?
 
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Pioneer 2071 with original bar and maybe chain, has pioneer stamped on chain.

Can someone tell me what the compression should be on this pioneer 2071 be? I tested and is about 115psi is this the low range for the older saws?
It start on the 3rd for 4th pull everytime.

Thx
 
Can someone tell me what the compression should be on this pioneer 2071 be? I tested and is about 115psi is this the low range for the older saws?
It start on the 3rd for 4th pull everytime.

Thx

Can't tell exactly if the 2071 has it but, most of them have a compression release mech. tied in with the recoil starter. Therefore, when you pull on the rope, the comp. release is opened to reduce the needed effort.

Defeating the release in order to get a pressure reading puts undo strain on the recoil pulley mechanism.

The best thing to do is just bury him in some wood with a 16" bar and see how he cuts.
 
Given the amount of work it took to find carb parts, that comment about the primer has me a little worried.

Can anybody point me in the direction of parts or info on rebuilding/refurbishing the primer, or am I going to be working it out from scratch?

Regarding the Pioneer primer, look at the following: The inlet check valve was originally a flat rubber-type disc. I've been replacing them with punchings from old carby diaphragms. (Not my idea originally, so I can't take credit for it.) Use a paper hole puncher, and stack 3 or 4 under that little clip. Be sure to get all the old, sticky crap out so the discs are free to move. The outlet check valve is just a little spring, tiny piston and a even tinier o-ring. Shouldn't be much here to do except to make sure it moves and seats. The pump piston has a big o-ring. If this leaks fuel will spit out the top of the primer but it should still operate.

One thing I've noticed, it seems important to keep the felt filter under the inlet valve assembly. It keeps the outlet check valve clean and prevents it from leaking thru.

Chris B.
 
Finally got some time to get some pictures yesterday of my Pioneer.

View attachment 297817View attachment 297818View attachment 297819View attachment 297820


Took a closer look at the bar, pretty sure I'll need to replace it. Looks like it was run kinda dry for a bit, there's some wear on both the bar and the chain, and the steel is mushroomed over a bit on the bar.

Haven't taken apart the primer yet. That'll probably be a project for tonight.
 
Finally got some time to get some pictures yesterday of my Pioneer.

View attachment 297817View attachment 297818View attachment 297819View attachment 297820


Took a closer look at the bar, pretty sure I'll need to replace it. Looks like it was run kinda dry for a bit, there's some wear on both the bar and the chain, and the steel is mushroomed over a bit on the bar.

Haven't taken apart the primer yet. That'll probably be a project for tonight.

nice lookin saw. regarding the bar - mushrooming happens. if after you dress the bar there is still enough room for the chain drivers to not hit bottom in the groove you could probly still use that bar. unless something wrong elsewhere. just dress it up and see; five minutes on the bench grinder.
 
nice lookin saw. regarding the bar - mushrooming happens. if after you dress the bar there is still enough room for the chain drivers to not hit bottom in the groove you could probly still use that bar. unless something wrong elsewhere. just dress it up and see; five minutes on the bench grinder.

Jerry, Jerry, Jerry ...... that bench grinder is way too harsh on the bar, IMHO.

A 1/4" die grinder with an abrasive disc is the real ticket, or one of these: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw-stickies/128518-48.htm#post4047358
 
OH, almost forgot this pic. Can anyone tell me what the stampings mean on this Oregon chain?

View attachment 297831


Regarding cleaning up the bar, I have a dynafile I'll probably use, or if I get super fancy, I bet I could put it on the surface grinder I run at work and give the whole bar a nice shiny, almost mirror finish.
 
OH, almost forgot this pic. Can anyone tell me what the stampings mean on this Oregon chain?

View attachment 297831


Regarding cleaning up the bar, I have a dynafile I'll probably use, or if I get super fancy, I bet I could put it on the surface grinder I run at work and give the whole bar a nice shiny, almost mirror finish.

The '30' is the depth of the rakers and the '51' is the chain model.
 
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Awesome, thanks.


Trying to get up to speed on this saw business while running around doing 10 other things at once as well.
 
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