Pioneer chainsaws

[Lou]

Hi all.

I’m new here. Just thought I would drop in with some questions on my Pioneer 1073.

- My gas cap is really, really tight. I have to use a plier to install and remove it. I’m wondering if it has swelled up a little due to the “better” (right) gas we’re getting these days. Where do I find a replacement?

- Right now the saw pulls a little bit. Not sure if that’s the right term or not. I have to cut somewhat of an arc to keep it cutting. If I try to just cut straight through, it just won’t cut but doesn’t seem to really bind and slow down either. I’m guessing a new chain and probably a bar due to its age/use would help that.

Thank you for any help!

Gas caps discussed above (507475167 replaced, replacement too NLA, Ebay or a file).

My Farmsaw 20" bar started cutting in an arc (I don't recall whether to the left or right) many years ago. I replaced it with a 24" Oregon Power Match (stamped into bar - OREGON 240---D196 - below that - 8796 HT). I don't know whether the shop that ordered it for me modified the oiler holes, but it oils just fine. It's 3/8, 0.050 gauge with 81 drive links. Gauge shouldn't matter but bar and chain need to match. I won't swear this bar is still available.
After I get the new bar I looked closely at the original. I found a wire edge on the bar itself on both faces. A file (held at 45°) and a few minutes removed it. It now cuts true again.

Many Poulan parts are interchangeable. My pioneer lost her spark (that's discussed above too) I picked up a Husqvarna 359 that performs nearly as good as my Pioneer did/will again when I get off my bottom and fix the coil.
I have an IPL for my Farmsaw. All Pioneer parts seem to be 6 numbers (gas cap = 475167), to change that to a Poulan add 507 (gas cap = 507475167).
HTH

 

[fossil]

Hi all.

I’m new here. Just thought I would drop in with some questions on my Pioneer 1073.

I got the saw from my dad some time ago. He bought it brand new, I don’t know what year, but it’s been around. I pull it out a couple times a year to trim some branches, take a small tree down, or cut up some brush. It’s been working pretty good but I really don’t do anything to it at all, and feel like I should. I like properly taking care of tools but for me this is one of those that’s out of sight so much of the time it doesn’t get any attention.

On to a bunch of questions. Like I said, it’s running, but since I don’t use it all that much and never had it when new I don’t know if it could be running even better with some TLC. Looking for general maintenance suggestions.

- Most importantly, does anyone have a scan of a parts or maintenance manual or know where I can get one?

- Should I either replace or sand the points? Any reason to replace the condenser? Is it possible to adjust the points?

- My gas cap is really, really tight. I have to use a plier to install and remove it. I’m wondering if it has swelled up a little due to the “better” (right) gas we’re getting these days. Where do I find a replacement?

- Right now the saw pulls a little bit. Not sure if that’s the right term or not. I have to cut somewhat of an arc to keep it cutting. If I try to just cut straight through, it just won’t cut but doesn’t seem to really bind and slow down either. I’m guessing a new chain and probably a bar due to its age/use would help that.

- Any recommendations on a good chain/bar combo. I believe I’ve got a 16” bar right now. Seems to be sufficient for everything I do.

• From the info I found, I need a 3/8” pitch.
• If I choose to purchase both a new chain and bar I can pick the gauge, correct?
• Why choose one gauge over another?
• Do the roller tip bars make a noticeable difference or why choose one? Reduced friction seems like a good idea.

I’ve cleaned the carb in my ultrasonic cleaner a time or two and it’s working well. Are rebuild kits with gaskets, diaphragm’s, ect. Available should I never need them?

Any suggested places to order parts from? I've called some local shops in the past asking about the gas cap and it was like they had never heard of Pioneer before. No luck locally unfortunately.

Now on to the choice of a future saw. The pioneer is lacking some of the safety features I wouldn’t mind having, especially if/when I get my kids started on helping and using a saw. The specs on the Pioneer are 51.4CC, the hp is not rated, and the weight is 9lb 10oz for the powerhead only. I was looking at the Stihl MS251 C-BE. It’s specs are 45.6cc, 2.95hp, and 11.9lb powerhead weight. Without knowing how many hp the Pioneer is, it’s hard to determine how it compares to newer saws. Any thoughts or recommendations on saws of similar size/weight to look at. I'm also a Husqvarna fan as well but don't know much about their, or Stihl for that matter, lineup. The new Husqvarna 450 looks pretty nice.....

Thank you for any help!

You can find a parts list (IPL) at the link below to download for free.

http://store.chainsawr.com/blogs/illustrated-part-lists/1119872-pioneer-illustrated-part-lists

I have a copy of the service manual so if you want to just click on my user name, fossil, and click on start a conversation and send me your e-mail address Ii will send you a copy. It's 23 mb so I can't post it here.
If you're cutting at an angle, Lou's advice is good. The rails on the bar need to be square and the same height and the cutters on your chain need to be the same length for left and right cutters. Those burrs that Lou is talking about also can cause the rails to chip so be sure to file them off if they appear.
Make sure the bar is straight.

 

[cbfarmall]

Does anyone have a pic or a template of what the outer dawg on this Holiday 1100w is spossed to look like? Thanks.

Don't think there ever was one, particularly on a saw that small.

In any case, parts like that I imagine would be shared with a 1200, among others.

Chris B.

 

[Acornhill]

1200

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[Acornhill]

New score

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[Acornhill]

Page 2

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[cgraham1]

I just ordered some two stage reeds from Boyesen for my P60. Thanks to Ed (Arrowhead) for pointing me in the right direction on this saw!

Here's the link, they were very easy to deal with. The reeds are part #801, but you have to call them. $26.90 shipped. The reeds are not listed on the website...

http://www.boyesen.com/2strokerevolution.php

 

[Arrowhead]

Clint, I'm glad you were able to get them. Make sure you use some sealer with a good gasket around the reed block. They are notorious for air-leaks around the block... even with a new gasket. I use a small coat of Moto-seal on each side of the new gasket. I'll see if I have any new gaskets here to send with the other stuff I'm sending ya. I'll try to track down a source to get the K&N filter also. Anybody know where to get them? I know Rottmans don't carry them anymore.
The part number molded in the bottom is HA-30. You may want to give Brad Snelling a PM, I think he found one about a year ago.

 

[cgraham1]

According to Brad Snelling, Jack's has them... I will call tomorrow to verify that they actually have some in stock.

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Parts-Lookup/507476468/2145916/ps

That's the one. You can look up the IPL and see the parts on that same site. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Jacks-Parts-Lookup/Manufacturer/poulan/502/242

Thanks Brad!

 

[Acornhill]

Clint, I'm glad you were able to get them. Make sure you use some sealer with a good gasket around the reed block. They are notorious for air-leaks around the block... even with a new gasket. I use a small coat of Moto-seal on each side of the new gasket. I'll see if I have any new gaskets here to send with the other stuff I'm sending ya. I'll try to track down a source to get the K&N filter also. Anybody know where to get them? I know Rottmans don't carry them anymore.
The part number molded in the bottom is HA-30. You may want to give Brad Snelling a PM, I think he found one about a year ago.

I sold my last one to someone on this thread )

 

[Lou]

According to Brad Snelling, Jack's has them... I will call tomorrow to verify that they actually have some in stock.

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Parts-Lookup/507476468/2145916/ps



View attachment 354369Thanks Brad!

If Jacks doesn't these folk claim to have at least 1 $25.18
http://www.m-and-d.com/index.html
I found many old Mac parts here. They've been good to me.

 

[Hoggwood]

Good day fellows. New at this hobby, lurking and learning. Pretty much having a good day since I relieved the previous owner of this gem this AM. I believe it was only around for one year but correct me if am wrong.

I figured some Canadian content was in order and wanted to share with you all before I head out and punish a Larch.

She's got some healthy snap.

Cheers - Cory

 

[cbfarmall]

As far as early 70s saws go, you'd be hard pressed to find a better 77cc motor out there. My earlier Super (same engine, with primer instead of choke) turned a few heads at a GTG. I snatched the spark arrestor out of the muffler just for kicks. Must be a reason I have 3 of these.

The gas tanks can be a bit fragile as they use a thin aluminum plate for the right side of tank, glued together. Mine leaked like a submarine with screen doors, so I pulled it apart, cleaned the groove, reassembled with JB weld and then sealed the inside with Kreem gas tank sealer.

Chris B.

 

[fossil]

That's in really nice condition Cory

 

[Hoggwood]

That's in really nice condition Cory

Yes, aside from a bit of paint, it is a beauty. It was sparingly used on an orchard to prune apple trees during the 70's by the fellow's father and spent most of its days riding shotgun on the tractor. It had been sitting dry in a tool shed since. There was no description or price on the saw in Craigslist. I don't know why I called. His description" old, big and greenish" compelled me to pay a visit. When I saw it I couldn't believe it. For $20 he offered me a choice. A 33cc Home Depot homelite or the greenish one. I felt enormously guilty keeping a poker-face when I paid him for it, but the 13 or so times I've fired it up in the last 2 hours have been most therapeutic. I did though reassure him that the homelite was the much better saw for pruning. Hopefully that will absolve me.

It was a very lucky day.

 

[fossil]

I hope you enjoy it. I've passed on those saws a few times because of the vibration issue. I've developed white finger which can be a real pain when it gets cold so I have to watch it. I'll likely cave in on the next one I see. The P series are the only ones around me that command decent money.

 

[Hoggwood]

I hear you on the anti-vibes. I've tried those green hulk gloves on my other shakers. Tough to get a good feel on the bars and throttle. When I am doing the serious firewood cutting it is usually with the lightest, smoothest and latest so I can still feel my hands enough to swing the maul and sledge after.
Unfortunately P-series are non-existent around here and with the hard-core logging in the 70's 80's I suspect more than a few were buried in the bush. The closest I've seen is a decent Farmsaw and it was asking serious $ and was 350 km away. Sadly, if you want to shell out your hard earned cash for vintage saws, 9 times out of 10 it'll be for a Husky or Stihl that spent 5 years too long being dragged behind a skidder in the Kootenays or the West Coast or so it seems. If there is less than 1/2 roll of duct tape and 2 lbs of Fir pitch baked on it, it is rated as "well maintained". Finding that demo saw that got stored is rare.
Regardless, I can see how collecting saws will be an addictive and expensive habit. Not so much for the cost of the saws but for the bigger shop I'll have to build.

Thanks for the warm response. I'll let you fellows get back to your business.

 

[nstueve]

Ok guys, pioneer 620/650.

No spark, points look awesome under the dust cap. Thoughts?

I'm pulling 120psi so I thin I have enough to make it go. Don't want to take the time on fuel system if I can't get spark.

Cheers!

 

[fossil]

Check your condenser

 

[nstueve]

Check your condenser

Not sure how to do that... Until just recently I've only dealt with late model saws that I could just swap a coil on.

Instructions in say 12y/o language please?