Pioneer chainsaws

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Well I have been cleaning and painting up some of the old Pioneers. You may remember this old NU 17 that was rescued from an abandoned logging camp.

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Well it looks different now!

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well I can see you tightened the chain . what else did you do?

just kidding ,thats real sweet looking . I would be afraid to use it though. I guess with the size of your collection you can have showroom models and user models
Mick
 
i just bought an old nu-17 on ebay it should arrive early next week i hope .
from the pics i have seen of it , i think it may be a little rougher than yours was, only missing a few small parts though .
so in a week or so i may be looking for some info ,a manual or a part or 2 :):)
 
well I can see you tightened the chain . what else did you do?

just kidding ,thats real sweet looking . I would be afraid to use it though. I guess with the size of your collection you can have showroom models and user models
Mick

I will use this one for cutting, its no where perfect so it will be run and cut some wood with it.That is why I rebuilt it mechanically before painting it.It has actually cut a cord or so since I did the mechanical`s on it last year. The RA that is in the restore mode now will not be run again and will become a shelf saw, it has been rebuilt mechanically with all new parts as well although the original parts had next tro no wear on them.
Pioneerguy600
 
Oh boy

Your killing me Jerry,you should have got into custom cars and the like.What can I say, REAL NICE.Hey I think I spotted another one in yellow on the shop floor.Am I right?
Lawrence
 
i just bought an old nu-17 on ebay it should arrive early next week i hope .
from the pics i have seen of it , i think it may be a little rougher than yours was, only missing a few small parts though .
so in a week or so i may be looking for some info ,a manual or a part or 2 :):)

you should be right tex unless two blokes from texas qld bought a nu17 off me, i took the idle screw out of my 450 and put into it i wont be running the 450 much it will just be bar room piece. the carby must be ok it held fuel for about ten days. theres some new fuel line and a spark plug in the box, bout the only thing you will need is a primer button. if any other little bits are missing just let me know, i had it pulled down to wash and may have missed a bolt or nut somewhere. ive been using a syringe to prime it, then it starts up easy as. im glad an as member bought it, cheers aaron
 
Jerry, that's amazing work. I'm glad to see you're bringing the oldies back to life in such a meticulous way. How many man-hours would you put into a saw resto like that?
 
Your killing me Jerry,you should have got into custom cars and the like.What can I say, REAL NICE.Hey I think I spotted another one in yellow on the shop floor.Am I right?
Lawrence

You have very sharp eyes there Lawrence but that is actually the body to this RA you see in these picts. There are about 40 odd yellow saws in this garage currently but none in the picts posted of the RA rebuild.
Pioneerguy600
 
pioneer NU-17 rebuild

Jerry,

When you rebuilt that NU-17, did you ever check the compression? I got part of a service manual for that saw(thanks Lawrence) and it listed the compression at between 90-105psi. I wondered if that was a mis-print? Mine is stripped and awaiting a new set of rings. Carb has been rebuilt and the case vac tested. Everything tested great. Just rebuilding the primer now, while I wait for the rings(so far, the primer, is not much fun to work with lol).
In your inventory of parts, do you have a spare spark plug cover you would or could part with?, and a felling dawg? I would take a trace of the dawg, as I can make my own with an accurate outline. Drop me a PM if you can help, I`m sure we could work something out.
I was going to paint the saw, but the original paint is really good, just a little faded. Think I will leave it original. With soo many nooks and crannies under the clutch, I just didn`t want to try to get all the paint stripped out. Need a few more easy paint jobs under my belt first.
Drew
 
I will post a few picts of the progress on the RA that has been completely stripped and rebuilt plus painted. Glass beaded then hand sanded took around 16 hrs. Some of the parts.

Shoot Jerry, you do incredible decent work on these oldies. The result is very purrrrty indeed.
Do you glass bead and sand yourself ? I would love to see how it works, as I am a total noob if it come to decent paint work.

congrats !
 
Jerry,

When you rebuilt that NU-17, did you ever check the compression? I got part of a service manual for that saw(thanks Lawrence) and it listed the compression at between 90-105psi. I wondered if that was a mis-print? Mine is stripped and awaiting a new set of rings. Carb has been rebuilt and the case vac tested. Everything tested great. Just rebuilding the primer now, while I wait for the rings(so far, the primer, is not much fun to work with lol).
In your inventory of parts, do you have a spare spark plug cover you would or could part with?, and a felling dawg? I would take a trace of the dawg, as I can make my own with an accurate outline. Drop me a PM if you can help, I`m sure we could work something out.
I was going to paint the saw, but the original paint is really good, just a little faded. Think I will leave it original. With soo many nooks and crannies under the clutch, I just didn`t want to try to get all the paint stripped out. Need a few more easy paint jobs under my belt first.
Drew


Will check spare parts bin for the cover and the felling dawg and get back to you on that.
Pioneerguy600
 
Shoot Jerry, you do incredible decent work on these oldies. The result is very purrrrty indeed.
Do you glass bead and sand yourself ? I would love to see how it works, as I am a total noob if it come to decent paint work.

congrats !

Yes I do the blasting myself and choose which medium to use from many types. This RA was in such good shape as it was always stored inside that it had some paint loss but no corrosion anywhere. Glass bead does not do a very good job of removing heavy deposits or corrosion so if that needed to be done I would choose a coarser medium like silica sand and that comes in different grades of coarseness. As soon as the blasting is complete the parts are put in degreaser to soak a couple of hours then boiled in a stainless steel pot for an hour or so, then rinse with boiling hot clean water to remove all oils.The hand sanding and casting flash removal took around 16 hours to accomplish, I use a belt sander and different hand held rotary sanding tools to remove flash and high spots, then hand file to get the contours correct. Then sand with 100 grit machine paper until smooth, next resand every piece with 200 grit machine paper until polished. The next step is the killer, LOL, I smear the entire surface of all showing covers and the tank/body with white lightening to fill in all the imperfections and pores etc, let it set and resand the covers completely smooth. Takes some work but is a safe way of making sure the paint will last.
Pioneerguy600
 
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