Pioneer chainsaws

[89HD]

I am just now seeing this post of another awesome 1750 saw. That is the proper full wrap for that saw. The handle is straight when looking from the side. 1770s curved back at the bottom. What you are seeing on the recoil cover are mounting holes used for the handle bracket of the prior 700s, 750s, 850s and the then-current 1850. Pioneer used the same fan shroud through the production run. Look at the 1850 and you'll the fuel tank has the unused holes for the wrap brackets of the direct drives. All cost savings.

That 1750 will start on a squirt it's not drawing gas from the tank, I changed the fuel filter, new gas lines. Any thing different about this carb setup?

 

[fxer]

That 1750 will start on a squirt it's not drawing gas from the tank, I changed the fuel filter, new gas lines. Any thing different about this carb setup?

Dont know about this carb but a lot of them pull the gas from tank with a diaphram. The air movement on compression stroke makes the diaphram move causing a suction on the gas line. Should have paid more attention to teacher of a small engine course and would be able to explain it better. fxer

 

[89HD]

It's the whole set up, new fuel line, filter, the filter bowl is on the bottom of the tank and it won't even fill. Had it running squirting gas into air intake and still no gas drawn thru the line in tank. There's supposed to be a piece of lead shot in the fuel filter base but I couldn't see any hole for it, and not sure what it's purpose is.
I think I will take it all apart again. I'm definitely missing something, sounds great when it's running.
Probably something simple I'm missing.

 

[fxer]

Your Low & High presets should be 1-1/4 low and 1-1/8 high to start . open up your low 1/8 turn out a little bit more to give the saw a little more gas when you crack on throttle , this may resolve your lean , otherwise it may also flooding itself out a little bit because of your metering lever set to high in the carb.
l would check those 2 things first.

I used your presets this morning and it is running great now. Both idle[may be a little fast now] and top end good and no bogging now. Spent the rest of the day cleaning up a p25 picked up last week.Guy I got it from said his father got mad at it and threw it in machine shed and bought a new saw. It had a loose wire at coil. Now to go over fuel system and it will run. Thanks again. fxer

 

[edju1958]

Hi guys,an update on the mongrel Farmsaw I bought last month.I got a flywheel,recoil,carb,bar plates,& muffler from XL130 a couple weeks ago along with a great running Farmsaw! I thought I was all set to get the original Farmsaw that I bought on Feebay going again,but ran into a slight delay.It seems that the guy who tried to transform the saw into a P4? decided to eliminate the decompression valve.I ended up getting a new one from Bob Johnson who just happened to have one in stock.I installed it earlier today & it's working like it should.The only thing left to do is rebuild the carb I got from Trevor & install it.It should then be a proper running Farmsaw & no longer a Frankensaw.

 

[job.ggy]

As I had previously thought, just swapping on the P41 starter would not work but if enough parts are swapped over then it may be possible. I would need to actually physically put the P41 flywheel on to get the starter working, then try determining where the timing is, the plug should fire around 20 degrees BTC. I know that I can change the spark timing to any point on the rotation of the crank by changing the position of the flywheel relative to the crank position, been there done that very many times. However this is not the case for most, they are just looking for an easy bolt on fix, even changing the flywheel would be more than most would want to do, very few people are as handy as we on here. If the spark timing is off much either way this would not be good for an easy fix.

Hi, new member here. I would like to ask if fitting a farmsaw with a P41 cylinder, flywheel, ignition coil and starter work? I'm trying to rebuild a Farmsaw here in the Philippines and I would like to know if it works first before I spend money on parts. Thanks very much.

 

[edju1958]

Hi, new member here. I would like to ask if fitting a farmsaw with a P41 cylinder, flywheel, ignition coil and starter work? I'm trying to rebuild a Farmsaw here in the Philippines and I would like to know if it works first before I spend money on parts. Thanks very much.

Let me be the first to tell you that it won't work.I have a Farmsaw that someone trtied it out on & gave up on it because it wouldn't run.They put parts from a P4? on the Farmsaw.The Farmsaw is electronic ignition & the parts he put on it were from a points saw.The timing was way off.I had to get another Farmsaw flywheel & recoil & re-install a decompression valve that had been removed.What parts do you need for your Farmsaw?Also,what part of the Phils are you from?I was in Dasmarinas,Cavite Province in Oct.2016.

 

[edju1958]

Well folks,I got the HS147D carb rebuilt today after cutting & hauling wood home before the rain came.I hope to install the carb tomorrow.I opted to put the HS147D back on the saw because the HS125B that was on it was made for a saw about 8ccs smaller.It might work,but as long as I have the original carb that belongs on the saw,that's what I'm going with.The 147 was in good shape except for the fuel inlet screen was full of sludge.I ended up putting the new screen in that came in the rebuild kit.

 

[job.ggy]

As I had previously thought, just swapping on the P41 starter would not work but if enough parts are swapped over then it may be possible. I would need to actually physically put the P41 flywheel on to get the starter working, then try determining where the timing is, the plug should fire around 20 degrees BTC. I know that I can change the spark timing to any point on the rotation of the crank by changing the position of the flywheel relative to the crank position, been there done that very many times. However this is not the case for most, they are just looking for an easy bolt on fix, even changing the flywheel would be more than most would want to do, very few people are as handy as we on here. If the spark timing is off much either way this would not be good for an easy fix.

Let me be the first to tell you that it won't work.I have a Farmsaw that someone trtied it out on & gave up on it because it wouldn't run.They put parts from a P4? on the Farmsaw.The Farmsaw is electronic ignition & the parts he put on it were from a points saw.The timing was way off.I had to get another Farmsaw flywheel & recoil & re-install a decompression valve that had been removed.What parts do you need for your Farmsaw?Also,what part of the Phils are you from?I was in Dasmarinas,Cavite Province in Oct.2016.

Hi sir! I'm from Lagawe, Ifugao, CAR. I'm in need of a piston kit and a starter assembly. Did you bring your Farmsaw to the Philippines sir?

 

[edju1958]

I was only there for 2 weeks visiting.

The starters are kinda tough to find.I can check on the parts you need from a guy who used to sell Pioneer saws back when they were in business.No promises.The thing is the shipping costs will be a killer.

 

[job.ggy]

I was only there for 2 weeks visiting.

The starters are kinda tough to find.I can check on the parts you need from a guy who used to sell Pioneer saws back when they were in business.No promises.The thing is the shipping costs will be a killer.

Thank you sir. You can contact me thru my email: [email protected]

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Rottmansales.com is often a source for older Pioneer parts. Friendly and helpful the few times I've dealt with them. Also a source of parts lists for many of the more modern (relatively speaking) models. But yes, shipping may be cost prohibitive depending on the part(s).

Attached are Farmsaw, P41, and P42 IPLs for parts comparison and cross-referencing. You'll find many similarities.

Good luck.

 

[job.ggy]

Thank you very much for the information sir.

 

[edju1958]

Well today was a bit disheartening.I put the carb on the Farmsaw & fueled it up.I took it outside & gave a pull & ended up with the starter handle in my hand.The rope had pulled right through.So back to the garage to take the recoil off again & try to figure that thing out.I got the rope back through the recoil,but I have no idea as to how to retension it.I put the recoil back on & pulled & pulled & it didn't fire up till I primed it.It screams at almost WOT,so there's an air leak somewhere.I suspect the carb gasket might be the culprit.I'll have to take the carb off anyway because I need to put the choke rod back on.If not the carb gasket,then I have no idea.

 

[Lou]

Well today was a bit disheartening.I put the carb on the Farmsaw & fueled it up.I took it outside & gave a pull & ended up with the starter handle in my hand.The rope had pulled right through.So back to the garage to take the recoil off again & try to figure that thing out.I got the rope back through the recoil,but I have no idea as to how to retension it.I put the recoil back on & pulled & pulled & it didn't fire up till I primed it.It screams at almost WOT,so there's an air leak somewhere.I suspect the carb gasket might be the culprit.I'll have to take the carb off anyway because I need to put the choke rod back on.If not the carb gasket,then I have no idea.

Your plea made me remove my starter. My plastic take-up reel has a notch in it.
If I turn the starter until that notch aligns with the starter rope and I pull the rope into the notch I can turn the starter against the spring until it is properly tensioned.
It would probably be necessary to temporarily remove the decompressor and the spring for the black starter pawl.

Turning carb adjustments/chasing leaks is not something I am comfortable doing.
HTH
Lou
I do recall vacuum leak detection on 4 cycle engines involved the careful application of oil. When applied to the leak it temporarily disappeared.

 

[edju1958]

Your plea made me remove my starter. My plastic take-up reel has a notch in it.
If I turn the starter until that notch aligns with the starter rope and I pull the rope into the notch I can turn the starter against the spring until it is properly tensioned.
It would probably be necessary to temporarily remove the decompressor and the spring for the black starter pawl.

Turning carb adjustments/chasing leaks is not something I am comfortable doing.
HTH
Lou
I do recall vacuum leak detection on 4 cycle engines involved the careful application of oil. When applied to the leak it temporarily disappeared.

Thanks for your help Lou.I looked for the notch in the pulley when it came apart on me & I didn't see one.I might've just not seen it on account of my poor eyesight.I am familiar with how to retension a rewind spring on saws as I've done it many times on various branded saws.Yeah,chasing down an air leak on a 2 cycle is a bit different,but pretty much works on the same idea.

 

[Beavers]

Before you tension up the rewind spring 2-1/2 to 3 turns , make sure the spring is hooked properly into the back of the plastic rewind pulley slot. if it is not the spring and pulley it will slip under load when you mount assy on saw. also make sure your spring is not broken in middle somewear.

 

[Beavers]

Well today was a bit disheartening.I put the carb on the Farmsaw & fueled it up.I took it outside & gave a pull & ended up with the starter handle in my hand.The rope had pulled right through.So back to the garage to take the recoil off again & try to figure that thing out.I got the rope back through the recoil,but I have no idea as to how to retension it.I put the recoil back on & pulled & pulled & it didn't fire up till I primed it.It screams at almost WOT,so there's an air leak somewhere.I suspect the carb gasket might be the culprit.I'll have to take the carb off anyway because I need to put the choke rod back on.If not the carb gasket,then I have no idea.

Make sure your throttle shaft is not binding, Look to see if the throttle link is mounted in correct hole and that the carb butterfly is moving freely. l would check those little things out first as well as the Qty-2 gaskets carb to intake and reed block . the throttle adj speed screw may also need be backed off a little. Good Luck

 

[xl130]

Those easy arc starters are particularly annoying to assemble. Getting the spool onto the spring is the hard part. It either pops on first try or it takes 100. If you do take everything apart for inspection try to align the hook part of the starter spring to be close to the center post as possible(if that makes sense) so that the spring will snap into the notch on the spool. I find that using a pick or something similar to fish in and push the spring into place as your pushing the spool down helps a bit. This is all done blind do bring your patience.....
As mentioned you need to remove the decompression lever and friction thingy to access everything and to tension. You can simply look at the other stater you have as a reference once you put everything back together.

You should put a small washer into the top of the starter handle to help catch the knot or make a double knot. I can make a video and send it to you if you have get stuck.

 

[Lou]

Well today was a bit disheartening.I put the carb on the Farmsaw & fueled it up.I took it outside & gave a pull & ended up with the starter handle in my hand.The rope had pulled right through.So back to the garage to take the recoil off again & try to figure that thing out.I got the rope back through the recoil,but I have no idea as to how to retension it.I put the recoil back on & pulled & pulled & it didn't fire up till I primed it.It screams at almost WOT,so there's an air leak somewhere.I suspect the carb gasket might be the culprit.I'll have to take the carb off anyway because I need to put the choke rod back on.If not the carb gasket,then I have no idea.

I have 3 chainsaws that are or were in regular use.
I cannot think of one time I ever found the end of the starter rope.
Perhaps your cord is shorter than it should be. I cannot give you the proper length, perhaps someone else can.