Pioneer chainsaws

[ML12]

This is what l found so far. 3 different ones. l notice the number of coils on your reed plate tension screw are #6 , do you think that might pose a problems later on?. is your spring the original one? The number of coils on this springs here in the pics are #8.

I replaced the spring, the old one had some corrosion and I was worried about it breaking. The tension is roughly similar. My honest intention with this saw is to run it to prove that it works, then put it up as a display. I am doing my best to fix everything properly though.

 

[Beavers]

You are doing a nice job from what l can see. and l am exited to see you finish. l to have a HM project l have started and not completed . l am at the stage you are.
l will look here for the 470136 plastic reed you need . l am not sure whether you are or have already made one yet, but be glad to share one with you if l find one.

 

[fxer]

Note: You will need a thin walled 5/16" socket to remove or install item #39

On my p25 the muffler nearly fell off and I replaced the long one with a pan head bolt also. Easier to work on it.Also used red loctite on it as there was nothing on bolts. Will have to use heat if I want to take it off again. The long one had vibrated off and the short one was very loose.

 

[brain150]

Does this help?

That, sir, is exactly what the doctor wished for, thank you so much! Also for the tip of the thin walled socket
Now I know what to look for, next hurdle is to find 3/4"" and 3/8" in Holland, where we have metric sized bolts

Edit: I have been looking and calculating and think I make a mistake somewhere, could you please look where I am going wrong?
* As far as I can find, 3/4-#10 means '3/4 of an inch in diameter with 10 threads per inch'. This means a bolt with a diameter of 1,9 cm (about as thick as a finger). In the picture @Beavers sent , it looks much smaller than 1,9 cm too and when I measure the hole, it's around 4,8 milimeter, so 5 times smaller than my calculated bolt. There isn't enough grease in the world to make this fit...
Can you tell me what I am doing wrong? I have searched for conversion tables, but did not find one with the measurements.

 

[fossil]

That, sir, is exactly what the doctor wished for, thank you so much! Also for the tip of the thin walled socket
Now I know what to look for, next hurdle is to find 3/4"" and 3/8" in Holland, where we have metric sized bolts

Edit: I have been looking and calculating and think I make a mistake somewhere, could you please look where I am going wrong?
* As far as I can find, 3/4-#10 means '3/4 of an inch in diameter with 10 threads per inch'. This means a bolt with a diameter of 1,9 cm (about as thick as a finger). In the picture @Beavers sent , it looks much smaller than 1,9 cm too and when I measure the hole, it's around 4,8 milimeter, so 5 times smaller than my calculated bolt. There isn't enough grease in the world to make this fit...
Can you tell me what I am doing wrong? I have searched for conversion tables, but did not find one with the measurements.

I think what Brian listed is 3/4" long #10 bolt, thread pitch 24 generally listed as #10-24 X 3/4"
The other would be #8-32 X 3/8"

 

[Beavers]

I think what Brian listed is 3/4" long #10 bolt, thread pitch 24 generally listed as #10-24 X 3/4"
The other would be #8-32 X 3/8"

Tims more thorough description here is correct, thx Tim.

 

[Beavers]

l am working on a Model HM saw at the moment and it has a copper cyl gasket. l have no new head gaskets here, and would like to get the saw back together. Anyone have bad expierences reusing the old one? Or should l find a new head gasket.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Myself i would spray it with Aluminum spray paint and reuse it.
Used to be an old trick for reusing car gaskets if they were still decent.

 

[Beavers]

l guess thats the same stuff as a store bought copper sealer product , Did some online searching and the guys talk about annealing the gasket first , a heating and cooling process prior to a sealer.

 

[brain150]

I think what Brian listed is 3/4" long #10 bolt, thread pitch 24 generally listed as #10-24 X 3/4"
The other would be #8-32 X 3/8"

That makes much more sense than my description, thank you very much.

 

[Beavers]

This saw arrived at my doorstep a few years ago in a basket. Here are some Pics , its model 410. Note the lawnboy OMC module on it I replaced the original coil . those old original coils are hard to find and l choose not to install the aftermarket coil on laminations.
l will send more pics later after l get it altogether.

 

[rocketnorton]

+1 on annealing
reused many norton & triumph [copper] head gaskets
no sealer

 

[Beavers]

+1 on annealing
reused many norton & triumph [copper] head gaskets
no sealer

How are you annealing the head gaskets that you reuse on the Norton & Triumph, without the use of a sealer or do you just reuse the copper gasket only?

 

[fossil]

To anneal it Brian, just heat it up with a torch until it's red hot and let it air cool.

 

[rocketnorton]

i used stove element, red hot as tim said.
i used to cool them in water tho
no sealers on installation

 

[Beavers]

To anneal it Brian, just heat it up with a torch until it's red hot and let it air cool.

Tim that seems pretty simple , l will put it on my hot plate heat it till it gets red hot and let it cool. Seems to be different opinons though about whether or not to quench it in cold water. l normally would use a new copper head gasket but l have none. thank you all for good advise and l am sure it will work great.

 

[Lou]

If I may. I used to calibrate industrial equipment. Heat treat ovens/furnaces were high on that list (one or two large enough to fit a railroad car). Manufacturers, often require a plus or minus temperature for items that require heat treating (most often aluminum was ±10° F and steel was ±25° F. I do not recall any customer that tempered copper). No plus or minus tolerance can be attained in an oven that has hot and cold spots that exceed the tolerance. I am NOT an expert on heat treating metals.
IMO quenching (usually water or oil) a hot piece of metal hardens it. Heating it, then allowing it to cool naturally relieves any hard spots and stress points.
I see no reason why you would not want the entire gasket to be of uniform hardness and can think of no reason why a gasket would need to be hardened.
Again my opinion.
Lou

 

[Beavers]

Pics of current HM Project, thx to you guys l got the cyl head installed , torque nuts 75 inch lbs , and reused the old copper head gasket after annealing it.

 

[Beavers]

Pics of Model 410 powerhead Restro. complete

 

[fossil]

Nice 410 Brian.