Pioneer chainsaws

[Beavers]

Pics of my Pioneer HM Project saw, thx to PioneerGuy600 for the cyl&piston that helped me get it completed, The Tilly HP carb was most interesting and the new parts are not easily to obtain, l managed to get a new condensor and the points l had , extra condensors l have extras here. l am waiting for decals to arrive. Also looking for another Str grip if any one has a spare.

 

[Lou]

Pioneer P20 and a Craftsman (Poulan?) 2.0 with a 14-inch bar. Both for $50 if I read the post correctly.
Link follows: https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tls/d/tacoma-chainsaws/7331950515.html

 

[pioneerguy600]

Pics of my Pioneer HM Project saw, thx to PioneerGuy600 for the cyl&piston that helped me get it completed, The Tilly HP carb was most interesting and the new parts are not easily to obtain, l managed to get a new condensor and the points l had , extra condensors l have extras here. l am waiting for decals to arrive. Also looking for another Str grip if any one has a spare.

Very-very nice job !

 

[Jasonrkba]

I picked up a p28 and the L setting doesn't line up great with the hole in the housing. Is this common or do I need to dig deeper? i haven't had time to look at it much but this is something I noticed.

Thanks. Jason.

 

[xl130]

Was wondering if the plug over the hi jet on a SDC53B is a normal Welch plug or a fixed nozzle. Looks like someone started to drill this one then stopped…..

 

[fossil]

Was wondering if the plug over the hi jet on a SDC53B is a normal Welch plug or a fixed nozzle. Looks like someone started to drill this one then stopped…..

View attachment 915718

It is a welch plug and someone did drill it. Not sure why. The main nozzle and check valve is under that plug.

At least you get to look at the check valve to make sure it hasn't turned to goo.

 

[xl130]

It is a welch plug and someone did drill it. Not sure why. The main nozzle and check valve is under that plug.

At least you get to look at the check valve to make sure it hasn't turned to goo.

Thanks! Looks like whoever did that plug had a few drinks first. Looks a little beat up around the sealing lip.

I think I recall reading somewhere that you can cut new check valves with gasket material. Any idea how think that check valve is?

 

[xl130]

Yup. Gonna need a check valve. The flap is gone. Probably why I couldn’t get it to run.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Very handy for looking up SDC parts and configurations...

 

[xl130]

Very handy for looking up SDC parts and configurations...

That’s awesome! Thanks

 

[89HD]

Pics of my Pioneer HM Project saw, thx to PioneerGuy600 for the cyl&piston that helped me get it completed, The Tilly HP carb was most interesting and the new parts are not easily to obtain, l managed to get a new condensor and the points l had , extra condensors l have extras here. l am waiting for decals to arrive. Also looking for another Str grip if any one has a spare.

Great job on restoring that saw.

 

[Hoggwood]

Yup. Gonna need a check valve. The flap is gone. Probably why I couldn’t get it to run.View attachment 915723

Brass seat looks a bit hammered. Hopefully it will accept the screen and circlip. FWIW, here is a link to a post of mine that outlines my redneck technique for retrofitting those checks. I don’t initially remove the brass assembly, but it can be pulled carefully using an appropriate machine screw. If the check pocket is full of funk and just won’t seal after a rigorous cleaning and retrofit, then pull it. But, I’d rather not pull the brass assembly if it is not needed.

https://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/9509/walbro-check-valve-assembly-repair

 

[xl130]

Brass seat looks a bit hammered. Hopefully it will accept the screen and circlip. FWIW, here is a link to a post of mine that outlines my redneck technique for retrofitting those checks. I don’t initially remove the brass assembly, but it can be pulled carefully using an appropriate machine screw. If the check pocket is full of funk and just won’t seal after a rigorous cleaning and retrofit, then pull it. But, I’d rather not pull the brass assembly if it is not needed.

https://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/9509/walbro-check-valve-assembly-repair

Ah that’s where I saw it! You’d think I would’ve remembered better seeing as I commented on it
Thanks!

 

[xl130]

New check valve installed, new fuel lines and carburetor overhaul and a P60 is back to life! Needs a pivot spike and a bit of cleaning.

 

[fxer]

New check valve installed, new fuel lines and carburetor overhaul and a P60 is back to life! Needs a pivot spike and a bit of cleaning. View attachment 916913

Were did you pick this one up? When we talked you said you were looking for one.

 

[xl130]

Were did you pick this one up? When we talked you said you were looking for one.

Yes it’s mine know. Had to oil up the old wallet……

 

[fxer]

My latest to come home with me. Running p50 pioneer. Running Remington pl4. Pioneer-partner p42 with piston troubles but cyl looks ok and an iel model hm missing breather and glass bowl.

 

[hillwilliam]

SDC 80 woes: Maybe I should post this in the general chainsaw section as well.

I've always run SDC 80 carbs in my P-series saw, even my P42. I love 'em. I've always used the same one in my 5-cube saw that was a P51 when I got it new. Later, it turned into a very strong ported P52. Now it's a ported P52BP. Lucky me, thanks to my member-friend in AZ!

When I first put it together as the BP saw, it ran just dandy. I got the fuel completely out of it and put away, because I wasn't going to be using it. Now I can't tune it satisfactorily. It stumbles off idle, and I have to feather it to spool it up. Of course it stumbles bad with the low-speed jet screw only 3/4 turn out. It doesn't act much different until I have the jet about to fall out. (I've always had to tune the low-speed pretty fat, but nothing like this.) With the jet just about floppin', the saw is useable but certainly not right.

This is a saw I've been married to for at least half of my 70 years, so I oughta be able to tune it by now. Of the many saws I've owned, I've cut more timber and firewood than any of them with this sweetheart.

I swapped for the carb off my 655BP, so it's fine now. The troublesome carb is on the 655 now, and it's useable but not even close to right.. I left it on the 655 because I'm likely to need it for a job in a few days.

This carb has been cleaned thoroughly, and rebuilt with an OEM kit. Welch plugs have been out as part of the process, and the check valve looks alright and tests out okay. Thanks to the guys who posted about that above.

I know some of you folks know things I don't, and I welcome thoughts from veterans. Maybe I'll have to look for a new carb after all these years.

Thanks.

 

[fossil]

SDC 80 woes: Maybe I should post this in the general chainsaw section as well.

I've always run SDC 80 carbs in my P-series saw, even my P42. I love 'em. I've always used the same one in my 5-cube saw that was a P51 when I got it new. Later, it turned into a very strong ported P52. Now it's a ported P52BP. Lucky me, thanks to my member-friend in AZ!

When I first put it together as the BP saw, it ran just dandy. I got the fuel completely out of it and put away, because I wasn't going to be using it. Now I can't tune it satisfactorily. It stumbles off idle, and I have to feather it to spool it up. Of course it stumbles bad with the low-speed jet screw only 3/4 turn out. It doesn't act much different until I have the jet about to fall out. (I've always had to tune the low-speed pretty fat, but nothing like this.) With the jet just about floppin', the saw is useable but certainly not right.

This is a saw I've been married to for at least half of my 70 years, so I oughta be able to tune it by now. Of the many saws I've owned, I've cut more timber and firewood than any of them with this sweetheart.

I swapped for the carb off my 655BP, so it's fine now. The troublesome carb is on the 655 now, and it's useable but not even close to right.. I left it on the 655 because I'm likely to need it for a job in a few days.

This carb has been cleaned thoroughly, and rebuilt with an OEM kit. Welch plugs have been out as part of the process, and the check valve looks alright and tests out okay. Thanks to the guys who posted about that above.

I know some of you folks know things I don't, and I welcome thoughts from veterans. Maybe I'll have to look for a new carb after all these years.

Thanks.

Sometimes the capillary screen over the check valves go bad. I have never been able to clean them properly and they look good but are not. That can cause a lot of running issues.
Change it out.

Keep your finger close to save the C clip from launching. Good luck with it.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You mentioned the check valve tested out okay. Depending on how it was tested, a pressure test of the entire carb may be a good idea If you already haven't done so..., even if it was just cleaned and rebuilt. Then there's the excessive wear between the throttle shaft and carb body that we occasionally hear about causing tuning difficulty. May be something else to look into on a carb with that much age and use.

Your description of the low circuit behavior sounds like unwanted air coming from somewhere.