If you rebuilt it, and put a new ring in it might be wearing in. The fuel mix will have to be adjusted as the rings seat.Hey guys. I was running my p41 today, first real test since I built it a few years ago. I had ran about two tanks through it cutting limbs and small stuff. Today I dug into a down oak about 40 inches across. It ate through it very well with a 20 inch 3/8 full house. After about three tanks it started getting weak. Ran great but if I leaned into it she got pitiful. Im assuming the coil is done. I pulled the muffler and the piston and cylinder looked new. My question is what are my options replacing the two piece ignition?
Thanks. Jason.
Inject-Aire is a bit of a pain but idle well once you get it there. Under discovered and a very peppy saw. It will easily handle a 28" bar. I have two of them and they kick butt.Could someone please tell me what is the purpose of this screw on the reed of the 3200? I'm working on getting this running. I don't think this saw was ran much ever as it was one the cleanest saws I have ever worked on.
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Save-a-Thread inserts have a knurled collar at the top of the threads that expands into (and flush) with the cylinder by means of a few solid whacks on a tapered punch designed to flare the collar into the aluminum. That doesn't look like one to me. Good chance the threads are too hogged out to use one now. May need to weld it and re-tap.That's what pulled out with the plug.
Hey Fossil. I have some crank seals on order thanks to your post a couple years back. I can't wait to get this going. Do you have the primer working on yours?Inject-Aire is a bit of a pain but idle well once you get it there. Under discovered and a very peppy saw. It will easily handle a 28" bar. I have two of them and they kick butt.
I wonder if I could put a helicoil in big enough to hold that sav a thread insert. Not ideal but it's my saw and I don't plan on parting with it.Save-a-Thread inserts have a knurled collar at the top of the threads that expands into (and flush) with the cylinder by means of a few solid whacks on a tapered punch designed to flare the collar into the aluminum. That doesn't look like one to me. Good chance the threads are too hogged out to use one now. May need to weld it and re-tap.
One yes. The other nope. Just subbed a purge / primer bulb for the non-working one.Hey Fossil. I have some crank seals on order thanks to your post a couple years back. I can't wait to get this going. Do you have the primer working on yours?
I will try to make mine work after I get it going. I see what you mean by under discovered. What caught my attention was the fact it can outrun a Homelite SXL925. And it's noticeably lighter.One yes. The other nope. Just subbed a purge / primer bulb for the non-working one.
Shop manual and IPL at this link under 1972 in case you don't have them.
I will try to make mine work after I get it going. I see what you mean by under discovered. What caught my attention was the fact it can outrun a Homelite SXL925. And it's noticeably lighter.
I do have the IPL but don't see the link for the shop manual. Could just be my phone.
Jeff
That is great. Thank-you!Here's a link to the 1972 shop manual I have stored on a cloud site
https://app.box.com/s/vu64pl3vf8ih4dpww89ruldk408yf2q8
Hi Jeff,Hey Fossil. I have some crank seals on order thanks to your post a couple years back. I can't wait to get this going. Do you have the primer working on yours?
Of course.Hi Jeff,
Would you please tell me which seals you ordered for the 3200?
Correction on the seals. I was told the 5606 is for the 3720 clutch side only & the 3200 takes the flywheel seal above on both sides.Of course.
This is the clutch side.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CR-SKF-Rad...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0This is the flywheel side.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00460FU6Y?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image#
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