propliner
ArboristSite Guru
I'm wondering if anyone has a pic of a P40, 50 or 60 side decal? I'm having the decal sets made up for these saws and I need an example of the "0".
Thanks.
Thanks.
Pioneer chainsaws
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I need the same info for my P50. I searched and could not find anything. Brendon, did the 50's have the starting inst. decal like Joe made for your P41?
propliner
ArboristSite Guru
Ed, the P50 had just two side decals, a top decal and a small oval decal on the top of the clutch cover. I'm sending him a pic of the oval decal tonight. There should be a P50 decal set available soon including the smaller bar stencil.
Also, thanks Artie. Examples of 40, 50 and 60 series decals seem to be rare in good shape.
Brendon.
Also, thanks Artie. Examples of 40, 50 and 60 series decals seem to be rare in good shape.
Brendon.
I wish i could help you out Brendon.
But the P60 is about the only big P series
i don't have.
Sorry Lee
Okay, according to my IPL, the P40 doesn't have side decals, just the top cover one, and I have a couple of those. I also have a P60 side decal, and a few others. Here are pictures of what I have.
Note that on the P40 top decal, the word "Pioneer" is raised embossed, while on the P41 & P41S it is flat. Also the P62 side decal is a Pioneer/Partner one, not Pioneer.
Note that on the P40 top decal, the word "Pioneer" is raised embossed, while on the P41 & P41S it is flat. Also the P62 side decal is a Pioneer/Partner one, not Pioneer.
propliner
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks Artie, those are perfect.
Brendon.
Brendon.
Today I installed a velocity stack & K&N filter on one of my PP655s. This is a different setup than the Pioneer/Partner and Poulan Pro IPLs show, so I'm not sure if it's an older type or what.
I got a couple of the stacks in a bunch of old parts I picked up, and the filter from the local auto parts store. K&N only lists 3 cone shaped filters for this flange size and this one was the easiest to get. It fits perfect, as it has the flange offset, so the filter more or less centers on the top frame.
The Pioneer part number for the velocity stack is VSS1, kind of a different number, but it was in a Pioneer package, so I think it's OEM. The number for the filter is K&N number RU-2740.
The stack:
The filter installed:
Let's step back for a better view...
Here's the other (newer?) type on one of my other saws.
I got a couple of the stacks in a bunch of old parts I picked up, and the filter from the local auto parts store. K&N only lists 3 cone shaped filters for this flange size and this one was the easiest to get. It fits perfect, as it has the flange offset, so the filter more or less centers on the top frame.
The Pioneer part number for the velocity stack is VSS1, kind of a different number, but it was in a Pioneer package, so I think it's OEM. The number for the filter is K&N number RU-2740.
The stack:
The filter installed:
Let's step back for a better view...
Here's the other (newer?) type on one of my other saws.
propliner
ArboristSite Guru
That's not a bad looking setup. Looks like a 90 degree elbow that clamps on both ends. Is the filter roughly the same size?
The base comes with extra long screws and replaces the white collar that the usual rubber boot clamps to. It gives a more smooth bend for the intake air to go around & supposedly breathes easier. The filter is very close to the same size, maybe a bit smaller. Gives a real intake honk when you rev it.
propliner
ArboristSite Guru
I didn't see the carb mount on my small phone screen, but now I see that it is a part made for these saws. Nice and simple, too. Great idea.
Cerran
Addicted to ArboristSite
Many Thanks to Propliner - Farmsaw Fixed and Working!
I just wanted to thank Propliner for providing me with a Yoke clip to fix a friend's farmsaw. I have some pictures here showing the saw and it's general condition. My friend still uses it on occasion for around his property to saw up dead and down trees.
The repair is complete, the saw runs and starts great, no complaints.
I just wanted to thank Propliner for providing me with a Yoke clip to fix a friend's farmsaw. I have some pictures here showing the saw and it's general condition. My friend still uses it on occasion for around his property to saw up dead and down trees.
The repair is complete, the saw runs and starts great, no complaints.
RobShelton
ArboristSite Member
Nice photos
Hey Cerran, glad your friend has the Farmsaw running again. I love that he still uses it as I also still use mine!
Hey Cerran, glad your friend has the Farmsaw running again. I love that he still uses it as I also still use mine!
propliner
ArboristSite Guru
Farmsaw repair
It's great to see the Farmsaw back in business. I owned a nearly mint one awhile back but gave it to a friend who moved further north onto a farm. He absolutely loves it. Now when I'm staying there, there's always plenty firewood to feed the fire over a few beers. A worthwhile donation.
It's great to see the Farmsaw back in business. I owned a nearly mint one awhile back but gave it to a friend who moved further north onto a farm. He absolutely loves it. Now when I'm staying there, there's always plenty firewood to feed the fire over a few beers. A worthwhile donation.
In need of advice
Hello everyone,
I'm really glad I found this forum after hours of searching for information on my newly-inherited P40H chainsaw (from Granddad). What a wealth of know-how!
Living in Germany, not a single soul around here has any good advice on the Pioneer brand of chainsaws....most people use Stihl or no-name brands...
So as I'm deeply committed to re-building the badly used saw, I would kindly ask for some good advice on how to get the flywheel off ...
I've already searched thru this thread and found out that without some sort of puller, the flywheel will not come off...but I could not find any description or pictures of the actual look + usage of this tool.
Can someone please point me into the right direction or give some advice ?
Thanks a lot,
Regards,
Marc
Hello everyone,
I'm really glad I found this forum after hours of searching for information on my newly-inherited P40H chainsaw (from Granddad). What a wealth of know-how!
Living in Germany, not a single soul around here has any good advice on the Pioneer brand of chainsaws....most people use Stihl or no-name brands...
So as I'm deeply committed to re-building the badly used saw, I would kindly ask for some good advice on how to get the flywheel off ...
I've already searched thru this thread and found out that without some sort of puller, the flywheel will not come off...but I could not find any description or pictures of the actual look + usage of this tool.
Can someone please point me into the right direction or give some advice ?
Thanks a lot,
Regards,
Marc
Flywheel
Hi, Welcome to the site! I have found the best way to remove the flywheel, besides a puller, is to put pressure behind the flywheel in a couple spots. I use large screwdrivers. You will want to gently tap them with a hammer, just so there is a small amount of force pushing the flywheel out away from the case. USE CAUTION so you don't damage the flywheel or anything behind the flywheel, too much, you take a chance cracking the case. Then back the nut off so its about a 1/2 turn PAST the end of the crank. This protects the end of the crank threads. Then I use a small piece of wood, placed on the nut and GENTLY tap with a hammer. Some penetrating oil a few hours before this procedure may help also. A puller would be my first choice, but I have removed many flywheels this way, with success every time. Again, use caution when you place the screwdrivers behind the flywheel, blunt drivers or blunt pry bars are best. This is my way, there are many skilled saw guys on this thread that will be happy to give there advice. Congrats on the saw!! Parts can be a little hard to find for the P40 series. Good luck and I hope this helps.
Hi, Welcome to the site! I have found the best way to remove the flywheel, besides a puller, is to put pressure behind the flywheel in a couple spots. I use large screwdrivers. You will want to gently tap them with a hammer, just so there is a small amount of force pushing the flywheel out away from the case. USE CAUTION so you don't damage the flywheel or anything behind the flywheel, too much, you take a chance cracking the case. Then back the nut off so its about a 1/2 turn PAST the end of the crank. This protects the end of the crank threads. Then I use a small piece of wood, placed on the nut and GENTLY tap with a hammer. Some penetrating oil a few hours before this procedure may help also. A puller would be my first choice, but I have removed many flywheels this way, with success every time. Again, use caution when you place the screwdrivers behind the flywheel, blunt drivers or blunt pry bars are best. This is my way, there are many skilled saw guys on this thread that will be happy to give there advice. Congrats on the saw!! Parts can be a little hard to find for the P40 series. Good luck and I hope this helps.
propliner
ArboristSite Guru
I've pulled dozens of flywheels using a steering wheel puller and the appropriate sized bolts. Remove the starter pawls and screw the bolts into those holes. turn the large center bolt into the divot in the crankshaft center and off it should come. Sometimes, considerable pressure is required.
Good luck and welcome to the site.
Good luck and welcome to the site.
@ Cerran
I ordered and received one from Poulan-Weed-Eater not so long ago. By my IPB it is pn 432129. If you go to to the site and preface the original pn with 507 many parts are still available.
I ordered and received 507432129.
Thanks to Greg (Bailey's) for the tip.
Lou
I ordered and received one from Poulan-Weed-Eater not so long ago. By my IPB it is pn 432129. If you go to to the site and preface the original pn with 507 many parts are still available.
I ordered and received 507432129.
Thanks to Greg (Bailey's) for the tip.
Lou
Last edited:
1st cut with the Pioneer 650 today!
I fired up my Pioneer 650 last spring for the 1st time after retrieving it from my shed where it sat since the day I got it 6 years ago. Basically just took the carb apart, cleaned the gaskets, primed the bowl and she fired right up. Did I mention it sounds mean!
Well today I actually had the opportunity to cut some wood. Wow just like everyone says plenty of power and it cut through a 20" log very quickly. It only took a few cuts to realize that I forgot to run the oiler. (I'm so use to modern saws) After the chain tightened up it was back to the impressive Timberwolf TW-HV2 to split some more wood. Which is also a work horse.
Thanks everyone for your tips and IPLS aloung the way to get me to the point of cutting wood. Looking forward to next time I get to use it. Not something I would want to use for a long period of time due to the weight of it
I fired up my Pioneer 650 last spring for the 1st time after retrieving it from my shed where it sat since the day I got it 6 years ago. Basically just took the carb apart, cleaned the gaskets, primed the bowl and she fired right up. Did I mention it sounds mean!
Well today I actually had the opportunity to cut some wood. Wow just like everyone says plenty of power and it cut through a 20" log very quickly. It only took a few cuts to realize that I forgot to run the oiler. (I'm so use to modern saws) After the chain tightened up it was back to the impressive Timberwolf TW-HV2 to split some more wood. Which is also a work horse.
Thanks everyone for your tips and IPLS aloung the way to get me to the point of cutting wood. Looking forward to next time I get to use it. Not something I would want to use for a long period of time due to the weight of it
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