plungging the spar

[Rob Murphy]

Crack Willow

Acer.
Heaps of Crack Willow in Tassie. Clogging up the rivers ...there is a big Govt eradication program on at the moment
Prefered removal method ....Excavater..
Was it a section of rotten wood failing internally? I had that happen before.
Murph.
I got excited about plunge cut falling when I first learnt it .I had one falling instructor who siad it was the best method for all falling.
Its like getting a new tool that you want to use all the time.
Since then I suppose I agree with Mike Mass its great to have in your tool kit but I now dont use it that often

 

[Kevin]

There`s really no advantage to use it unless the tree is leaning and under stress.

 

[Acer]

Re: Crack Willow

Originally posted by Rob Murphy
Acer.
Heaps of Crack Willow in Tassie. Clogging up the rivers ...there is a big Govt eradication program on at the moment
Prefered removal method ....Excavater..

How successful is that? Any branch tip, etc is of course a potential new tree. Although crack willow collapse so easily, its quite a good reproduction strategy, because the collapsing stems take root as soon as they touch the ground.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Originally posted by Kevin
There`s relly no advantage to use it unless the tree is leaning and under stress.

My understanding would be leaning forward is what you mean?

So then with a forward pull by other means than leaning leverage, not sometimes require same strategy?

 

[murphy4trees]

So when working down the spar I will set a single line with a running bowline (retriveable with second line attached to loop) around the top of the spar. Use friction hich to attach split tail to single line. Come down and cut notch and plunge on right side of notch (at about 3 o'clock to the direction of fall)... on that side plunge up to depth of hinge and then back and around to about 6 o'clock to direction of fall.. Shut off saw.. set rigging and then position myself to easily finish backcut.. then retrieve and reset single climbing line, before finishing backcut..
So that is not a true plunge as it doesn't leave a tab at the rear of backcut. This might be considerred a "partial plunge". The advantage is that it allows me good mobility to move from side to side, by staying tied in well above me until I Am in position to finish the cut.
I hope that is clear and welcome all feedback or suggestions.
God Bless All,
Daniel

 

[Kevin]

Spyder,
It doesn`t hurt to plunge any tree that`s under stress from a lean regardless which way you fall it but having said that, there`s no real advantage to plunge a tree that you`ll be felling opposite the lean with some form of mechanical assistance.
Once the tree is pulled straight most of the stress has been removed.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I see advantage if I need to;

plunge from two sides with a too short bar,

want to set every thing up so that the pull is tentioned and the hinge is perfect then I can cut the tab and run out.

I dont have a good pull, or don't want to set up The Winch for one tree, then I can get the heinge set, several wedges in then cut the tab and work it over with a light sledge.

like any special move, good to know, not always needed

 

[coydog]

murphy4trees, so you stay tied into the top as you cut the notch and make a partial backcut? sounds spooky to me.
what friction hitch do you use to descend srt?

 

[murphy4trees]

Coy,
Blake’s or French Prussic… come down on a Muenter or fig 8 to avoid burning.
Gof Bless,
Daniel

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Hey Dan, maybe you should put God Bless in your signature

 

[Kevin]

I think we need a new guy.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Can you refine that to use it as an avitar?

 

[Kevin]

I think so.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

 

[Nickrosis]

Religious things in signatures irritate Frans.... tis better to type it each time than have it in the signature.

 

[murphy4trees]

For those of you who question the value of plunge cutting... here's one for ya...
yesterday I was felling a 32" DBH x 10' trunk ( with a 24" bar ).. I was standing on a large rock.. cutting about chest high.. the treee was on a steep hill so standing on the far side of the tree, the cut would have been several feet over my head.. So I would have had to cut from a ladder or spikes.....
However I was able to center-plunge through the face, leaving only a small tab on the far side of the hinge and finish the entire backcut, never leaving the rock...
So that's a small example of one of the many benefits of plunge cutting...
Definitely good to have in your bag of tricks...
God Bless All,
Daniel

 

[Rob Murphy]

How often?

Like wow Dan I bet you find one of those everday!!!
Yeh good to have in your "bag of tricks".
Here's another!
Have you done any tree jacking ?

 

[Graeme]

Daniel

In Australia, the system of falling that you have described is called "Back Release". A "Plunge Cut" is a very different method of falling. On large diam. trees the "Back Release" is sometimes refered as a "Sissor Cut", because of the need to work from both sides of the stump.

Useing a "Back Release" on a tree that has only a small lean would be considered to be applying the wrong method of falling. When falling our "free" grained timbers on large trees, even when useing the "Back Release" correctly it is not uncommen to have the rear third of the stump to rip out of the ground and depart with the tree. This is why you must work to either sie of the stump.

Useing this method to fall a large leaning crown on free grained timber is not a learners place. The tree needs to be chained/cabled or strapped in at least 2 places below the cuts at the suitable spacings, prior to cutting. Without this precaution the tree has a chance of tearing a slab out of the back, below the climber and departing with the head. ( not a good day out)

 

[murphy4trees]

Graeme,
Thanks for that addition to the AS glossary. I think "back release" is a much better term than plunge cut for the felling technique described... I think plunge cut is more a chainsaw technique that can be used in certain felling techniques such as back release... a very good distinction..
And Murph.... never jacked a tree... like to try it though.. read Jerry's book... Any other advice? I would guess you gotta know how much hinge to leave beore jacking and have real realible equipment... what happens if the jack gives up in the middle of the cut???? Do you keep an extra jack on hand or rebuild them on a schedule? Any other tips and advice would be appreciated.
Thanks and God Bless,
Daniel

 

[Jock]

Jack felling is usually applied on roadside trees here where a winch is unaccessable, but always remember to strap your jack into the tree, cause if it decides to come out it'll come out fast and the tree will also come back fast .... the back release cut we only ever use in adverse wind conditions to avoid tear.....if you have a moderate wind ...just nick either side of the face cut and you are sure of a clean fall...Jock