Poll: What model for the next AS build off??

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What model would you prefer to see in the next AS build off?

  • 044/MS440/046/MS460/Hybrid

    Votes: 27 14.1%
  • MS441

    Votes: 9 4.7%
  • MS261

    Votes: 4 2.1%
  • 026/MS260

    Votes: 11 5.8%
  • 066/MS660

    Votes: 28 14.7%
  • 346

    Votes: 24 12.6%
  • 385/390

    Votes: 11 5.8%
  • 394/395

    Votes: 11 5.8%
  • 7900

    Votes: 37 19.4%
  • Other

    Votes: 29 15.2%

  • Total voters
    191
Porting does not raise compression...which you seem to be in favor of...:dizzy:



So...you are willing to do visible mods, i.e., the kind that the FS can write tickets for, but opposed to the one's that can't be seen?



So, assuming porting has "no value" makes you feel better about not being able to port your saw?



Try porting. Been down that road, with a lot of nightmares after :msp_angry:



Give the search engine a go...you might be surprised.



Porting doesn't. Turning popups and cylinder bases certainly does.



Doing most anything right is time consuming. I used to have more time than money...now I don't seem to have any of either.



I would say that most people frequenting this site aren't afraid of a little work. The one's that are, or lack the knowledge/skills or ambition, or simply don't have the urge to modify their saws, generally don't hide behind nonsense about how little value porting has.

Like any other engine, there is a whole range of modification you can do depending on skill, finances, and the effort you are willing to put in. Lumping everything from a woods port to a race saw in the same category just demonstrates ignorance. If I am so ignorant why is I am on a site like this:dizzy:

Spend some time reading, find your comfort level, and be happy with it.

So your saying I am dumb and ignorant, well why do spend 5 hours a day researching this very subject? I Have the mechanical skills needed to do any mod I want, I am not willing to waste money on doing a porting job on a saw that makes me money, if it fails as a resulte of a mistake in the porting job then I am out at least 1k to buy a new saw:msp_unsure: Porting is fine for people who have money to burn, most of us are surviving on a shoe string. I would rather see what can be done besides porting on shoe string budget that the average guy can do with tools found in the average guys tool box, not specialized machining tools. I have had my saw inspected twice by the local FS and they saw nothing wrong. Porting is all inclusive to saw modification.
 
So your saying I am dumb and ignorant, well why do spend 5 hours a day researching this very subject?

You may have answered your own question. :hmm3grin2orange:

I Have the mechanical skills needed to do any mod I want, I am not willing to waste money on doing a porting job on a saw that makes me money, if it fails as a resulte of a mistake in the porting job then I am out at least 1k to buy a new saw:msp_unsure: Porting is fine for people who have money to burn, most of us are surviving on a shoe string. I would rather see what can be done besides porting on shoe string budget that the average guy can do with tools found in the average guys tool box, not specialized machining tools. I have had my saw inspected twice by the local FS and they saw nothing wrong. Porting is all inclusive to saw modification.

Kidding aside, it's quite possible that you know what you're talking about, but are unable to communicate it well enough for us to understand. "Porting" is port work. Not piston work, or turning a cylider base, or anything else.

I got interested in porting because I'm on a shoestring budget. I can't afford 1K for a saw, but I can afford $100-150 for a saw with a toasted p&c, and another $150-250 for the new p&c.

If you consider a Dremel tool "specialized", then you'll be glad to know a chainsaw file and wet-dry sandpaper (with a little Crisco) will work. Ask me how I know...
 
Edisto, I'll just forewarn you that you are just wasting time trying to explain anything to this "professional gypo faller" from the great PNW. His previous post that show pictures of his "falling" technique and his multiple discussions on how cutting should be done leave no room for correction. lol From coast to coast this is the end all know all professional of professionals. Any topic from bar lenght to chain to porting you should be asking this guy, guys like us are just dumbazz southern firewood hacks that only cut kindling for firewood with saws with too short of bars. I recommend that we just sit back and absorb all the wonderful data that he post. Maybe we'll see a thread on him comparing how a stock 660 is more productive than a ported 460, or it could be a ported 372 vs a stock 390, who knows, just buy a bigger saw it's going to be more productive. I'll be waiting on the post that shows how he gets more work out of a bigger stock saw. We don't need search anymore, just a place we can post questions or get opinions from the pro gypo logger of the great PNW. To hell with the opinions of guys like Simon, TWolf, TLandrum and others who have contributed, they obviously don't know jacK;)
 
From what you just said proves that you are not able to read, I said firewood cutters not commercialized fire wood harvesting for resale. Firewood cutting is a totally different gig then commercial logging. From what you are misconstruing about my post shows your lack of knowledge on porting. When I say metal I mean, pistons being shaved,piston being shaped, and jugs being reduced in port size and inlet and exhaust being reshaped. There is three types of porting I know that get done, polishing of the transfers and lower the squish, reshaping the ports and the exhaust outlet, race porting for pure speed. And you know nothing about my local FS policies, FS policies very from region to region. Ignorance is ok if you do not insult some else.



You might want to quit while you are behind.
"Jugs" don't get reduced in port size, they are increased!
Increased for more power.
More power means more work from the same saw...or the same work in less time depending on how you look at it.

What you aren't taking into consideration is the fact that there are many different "degrees" of porting. I have done my mild port work on many saws and haven't had any manner of failure. there is a quite noticeable increase in performance however and I really like running saws that can breathe.
The investment I have in special tools.....a $50.00 Harbor Freight flex-shaft grinder and a $20.00 set of burrs.

The long and the short of it...if you don't want to run modified saws then don't!
But don't try to tell those who modify and run them for a living, or those of us who burn 15-25 cords of wood a year how unreliable or prone to breakage they are.............it simply isn't true!
Maybe you might want to heed your own last line.............just sayin'.


Mike
 
I had a dremel before I ported the first saw. I bought a flex shaft to make it easier to get into the cylinders and some bits. I probably haven't spent $100 on porting tools.
 
You might want to quit while you are behind.
"Jugs" don't get reduced in port size, they are increased!
Increased for more power.
More power means more work from the same saw...or the same work in less time depending on how you look at it.

What you aren't taking into consideration is the fact that there are many different "degrees" of porting. I have done my mild port work on many saws and haven't had any manner of failure. there is a quite noticeable increase in performance however and I really like running saws that can breathe.
The investment I have in special tools.....a $50.00 Harbor Freight flex-shaft grinder and a $20.00 set of burrs.

The long and the short of it...if you don't want to run modified saws then don't!
But don't try to tell those who modify and run them for a living, or those of us who burn 15-25 cords of wood a year how unreliable or prone to breakage they are.............it simply isn't true!
Maybe you might want to heed your own last line.............just sayin'.


Mike

So you think I am not aware that modified saws are prone to a higher failure rate. Porting is fine for cookie cutting saw. A work saw should be able to run 10 hour a day 5 days a week with no more then a quick cleaning of the air filter and the bar. Ported saws use more fuel and have shorter life then a straight work saw. I have seen ported saw on the job and they are faster but the guts of the saw wear at a higher rate then stock saw do. Ported saw have a limited resale market.
 
So you think I am not aware that modified saws are prone to a higher failure rate. Porting is fine for cookie cutting saw. A work saw should be able to run 10 hour a day 5 days a week with no more then a quick cleaning of the air filter and the bar. Ported saws use more fuel and have shorter life then a straight work saw. I have seen ported saw on the job and they are faster but the guts of the saw wear at a higher rate then stock saw do. Ported saw have a limited resale market.




I think your eyes are brown!!!
If they aren't you are only a quart low!

Ported WORK saws will do as much work OR MORE...than a stock saw.
They may not last as many hours, but in those hours will do more cutting and at less fatigue to the operator.
You claim to be a professional woodcutter but you don't seem to comprehend that a saw that is putting more feet of timber on the ground is making more money for the operator.
Saw breakage is a fact of life for a sawyer...period.
Most professionals that I know want a saw that is the most efficient for the time spent in the woods. If they break their modified saw they go to the truck and get another modified saw and continue on.
I want to see you tell Matt (MCW) or Terry (tlandrum) how their saws can't work 10+ hour days 5 (or 6 or 7) days a week.

The further you go, the deeper you get!


Mike
 
I think your eyes are brown!!!
If they aren't you are only a quart low!

Ported WORK saws will do as much work OR MORE...than a stock saw.
They may not last as many hours, but in those hours will do more cutting and at less fatigue to the operator.
You claim to be a professional woodcutter but you don't seem to comprehend that a saw that is putting more feet of timber on the ground is making more money for the operator.
Saw breakage is a fact of life for a sawyer...period.
Most professionals that I know want a saw that is the most efficient for the time spent in the woods. If they break their modified saw they go to the truck and get another modified saw and continue on.
I want to see you tell Matt (MCW) or Terry (tlandrum) how their saws can't work 10+ hour days 5 (or 6 or 7) days a week.
Mike
The further you go, the deeper you get! Ya right!
I am going by what is common in my area. You east coasters run short bars and know not what we do in the PNW. If you want to waste time and money porting saws that is fine by me. I buy a saw that is suited to the job, forcing a underpowered under design saw to do the work.
 
you are more likely to smash a saw or have bearing failure, than grenade a PnC falling timber. I have not yet blown one up, but I have broken a flywheel bearing and smashed a saw, as well as tearing a few mounts and impulse lines. both PnCs where fine on those saws,044s. Mind they where not ported, but I just don't think it is a big issue. My novice ass ported my 660 and it has been well used and is stronger than ever. I don't think I will ever be in the woods without a hopped up chainsaw.. Think of what a chainsaw goes through every time it hits wood. It thrives in an extremely abrasive setting. Getting all trivial about longevity correlated with porting is a bunch of hooey imo. Now if guys where getting 10 years out of saws before they started falling apart then maybe it would be a more valid debate.
 
well you know this thread has went to heck in a hand bag so lets just say im an idiot for porting saws and the 10 hrs my saws go thru running a 24''-28'' bar arent near as hard as cutting butterwood oops i mean pine. hbredneck your the man and shame on everyone for trying to do there own thing :sucks:
 
The further you go, the deeper you get! Ya right!
I am going by what is common in my area. You east coasters run short bars and know not what we do in the PNW. If you want to waste time and money porting saws that is fine by me. I buy a saw that is suited to the job, forcing a underpowered under design saw to do the work.



I guess you are right..............my fault.............!!!:rock:
I don't guess any of the PNW loggers are running ported saws and making a living with them.:dizzy:
:buttkick:

Mike
 
Well you west coast professional gypo logger of all loggers, Mr. Longbar himself, can you explain why many of the other PNW fallers run modified saws and talk about the increases production. Can you explain why there are so many professional saw shops that do porting work for fallers in the PNW. I guess people like the Walker's and guys's like Simon who have ported thousands of for fallers and professional loggers. Hillbilly give it up,
you just dig yourself farther and farther in a hole. If you were truly a faller you would be familiar with ported saws and what they can do. Your east coast vs west coast mentality is about as stupid as it gets.
I'm afraid you couldn't carry some of us dumb azz easterner's and southerner's water jugs, have you ever used a saw outside of your front yard? Your post continue to lead one to believe that you make this stuff up as yougo. Just tone the BS down and guys will have some respect for you, otherwise you just keep inviting people to point out your ignorance. Ignorance is not a bad thing, it just means you have no clue what you are talking about vs. plain stupidity.
 
how about you you cut 3 cookies, then strap it to a CSM and make a 8 foot rip through a 16 inch hardwood, then 3 more cookies?

That would separate the "ringers"

This is the same 084 I posted before. I has a popup piston, tight squish, and a full woods port. Nothing was tamed down on it. It does fine. I just richen it up, as any milling saw should be.

<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/8wumEnPDi3Y?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

HILLBILLYREDNEC, you need to get out a little more before you get so adamant on your opinions about ported work saws. There are plenty of woods ported work saws out there reliably earning a living for their owners. A popup piston and complete woods porting does not mean the saw will die an untimely death. If that's what you're seeing, then they're either not built right, or the owner doesn't know how to take care of them and/or run them.
 
jasha ,bob,jj,kid, etc etc etc . havent you heard the word. your ported saws dont work throw them away before they fail . hbringneck has spoken. hahahahahahahah
 
jasha ,bob,jj,kid, etc etc etc . havent you heard the word. your ported saws dont work throw them away before they fail . hbringneck has spoken. hahahahahahahah

Yea, im looking at getting a stock jug right now. All that immediate throttle response, extra power. I knew it was too good to be true.

I wonder what that clown would have to say when you showed him some old 090 or 123Mac that had port work decades ago, probably put billions of feet on the ground, and still run today:laugh:
 
Hbrn

So your saying I am dumb and ignorant...

Maybe, but I don't think that's your real problem. I think you want to play with the big boys but you just don't know how.

You started off in the Logging and Forestry section claiming to be a "pro timber faller". When you were exposed as a fraud and a liar you deleted your posts.

Then you started appearing in the chainsaw section offering advice to the newbies. Your advice was just repeats of the information given by people who posted before you...but at least you were trying.

Now you've screwed up. Again. It's obvious that you don't really know anything about porting or what it entails. That's okay, a lot of people don't. But don't argue with the people who do. They started off trying to help you but you, with your usual unique blend of ignorance and arrogance, managed to piss them off.

I've told you this before...I'll try it one more time. If enough people, some of whom couldn't even agree on what day of the week it is and don't even like each other very much, tell you that you're wrong about something...you are wrong. Period.

Why not just quit with the know-it-all attitude.? You don't have the experience to back up your statements. Listen to these guys. If you listen you can learn. Quit trying to impress the big guys with what you know. Try, instead, to impress us with your desire to learn. Or just get the hell out. Your choice entirely.
 
I like hoppy beer and big fat ribeye steaks. I'd also like to talk about which saw will be in the next build-off. I may have a dog or 2 for this go around. A 372/2171 wasn't in the budget for me the last go around.



Are you saying your saws are dogs???:hmm3grin2orange:
Well just one creamsickle one that I know of!!!LOL


Mike
 
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