Pro vs Homeowner model

[CutsThroughKnots]

Hello all, I'm in the mood to buy a new saw. Current saw is a dumpster find that I've been using for about five years, have cut around seven cords of wood in that time. It's a Poulan Wild Thing with 18" bar. I've put new fuel lines in and keep it maintained and it cuts great.

If I step up to something with a 20" bar from Echo or Husky, what kind of difference in performance or safety or anything else can I expect? Current situation is I'm clearing many dead ash trees on my place, and some have larger trunks than I'm used to handling. I can still cut them with my dumpster Poulan but I'd feel a bit more confident with something bigger.

Thanks for any advice or suggestions, even if it's just to say to put my money back in my pocket and keep going with the Poulan.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

I doubt anyone here is going to tell you to put money back in your pocket, These folks are awesome at spending other people’s money. Pro saws are absolutely worth the entry fee to me as a firewood enthusiast. Echo offers excellent value in their saws.

 

[Jwilliams]

I’m all for echo saws own 4 currently and ide say a 590 is hard to beat for the price

 

[coffeebrk]

Since you have a saw currently working for you I'd recommend being patient and scouting the gently used market. I have 10 saws, none were new. 4 are Echo the rest are Stihl. They all get into wood regularly. Between the brands you mentioned I'd go with Echo.

 

[Brushwacker]

Majority of the replies will most likely say buy an Echo 590 if going new. I don't think you would go wrong with 1. It's a top 20in bar saw imo and for the money probably easily the best value if you don't have a lot of money to comfortably spend. Most your Stihls and some Husqvarna depreciate less though and often are worth the extra money especially if you use them a lot.
Poulan Wild Thing only is wasting you lot of time and effort if u do much and can afford a better saw. Nice to have an beater and back up though and it could serve well for that.
Search Echo 590 and u will see its highly recommended for budget and quality combined.

 

[Sawdust Man]

The echo 4910 (50cc) or 590 timberwolf (60cc) are both very solid saws, and are pretty much impossible to beat from a cost to performance, and reliability standpoint.
Either one would be a big improvement on the wild thing.

 

[EchoShindaiwaMakitaDolmar]

I Just saw a couple well used Echo 590 Timber Wolves with 20 inch bars available at a Home Depot for rent- technician says they're solid saws. The 590 is marketed as one of Echo's "Farm/Ranch" saws, but there's a pro version called the 620p.

 

[CutsThroughKnots]

Thanks for the replies. I have a line on a local gently used 590 that I'll be checking out this weekend. Asking $300. If it's a good saw I'll buy it and if not it won't hurt too much to buy a new one as it's not that much more in price. I like that I can try it out and cut some wood before handing over my money. Thanks again for the info and yes I'll hold onto my Poulan, no reason to get rid of it.

 

[CutsThroughKnots]

I did look at the reviews for the 590 and it appears to be a highly-respected saw. For those of you who use one, are you following the recommended min 89 octane gas? Everywhere I buy gas I just get the 87 octane but I'll go with a can of 89 if it really makes a difference.

 

[Sawdust Man]

I did look at the reviews for the 590 and it appears to be a highly-respected saw. For those of you who use one, are you following the recommended min 89 octane gas? Everywhere I buy gas I just get the 87 octane but I'll go with a can of 89 if it really makes a difference.

Until I found chainsaw forums I always just ran regular old pump gas.....never had anything blow up.....

 

[EchoShindaiwaMakitaDolmar]

I did look at the reviews for the 590 and it appears to be a highly-respected saw. For those of you who use one, are you following the recommended min 89 octane gas? Everywhere I buy gas I just get the 87 octane but I'll go with a can of 89 if it really makes a difference.

For reliability and durability, I'd use a minimum 89 octane ethanol free.

Or buy 10-15 percent ethanol fuel of 89 octane or more, and use an ethanol removal method or product.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

I ran a 590 for 3 years before buying my 462. The 72cc stihl is lighter but at a much higher price point. I sold my 590 for $300. I only run 90 octane e free gas with amsoil dominator at 40:1.

 

[sean donato]

For reliability and durability, I'd use a minimum 89 octane ethanol free.

Or buy 10-15 percent ethanol fuel of 89 octane or more, and use an ethanol removal method or product.

Don't listen to this guy, removing the ethanol will kill the octane rating of the fuel. If your not using much just get e-free, if your really not using any amount of fuel get the canned stuff. If your going through a lot of fuel get pump gas.

 

[Husky Man]

Husky Man is referencing my build and my preference in saws.

Up to a 20” B&C I grab either my 550XP, 346XP or my 353.

24” its the 562XP or Ol’ Reliable, my 30+year old 266XP

The 372XP and 372XPW can be seen with either 24”, or 28” B&C’s

For my “Team .404” 390XP, 395XP’s and 3120XP, I have 36”, 44”, 60”and 72” B&C’s

The 60” and 72” are strictly for milling, and are still Virgins yet

So how much larger do you want to get?

A 550XP w/20” B&C, or a 562XP w/24” B&C would be good choices, and a different planet from a “Wild Thang”

As to fuel ️, if it sits at all, use Ethanol Free, it is definitely worth the bit extra in price, IMO


Doug

 

[sean donato]

Guess I can add my 2 cents in here for what saws. 50cc I like the ms261cm. Husqy 550xp would be my second choice. A very nice 346xp would be great as well. (Good luck finding one of them cheap and in good shape) I'm not really a fan of the 50cc saw, much prefer a 60cc saw. Husqy 562xp, had 2 of them great saws, traded in for a stihl ms400cm. Really like it so far. Echo would be the cheaper option as previously mentioned. The 590 is a stout saw. Kinda heavy for power output, but very reliable and warranty can't be match. I wouldn't run any longer then a 20" bar on it personally.

 

[Husky Man]

I have never had a Wild Thang, what bar mount and pitch do they run?

I am guessing a .325 pitch, if they use a K095 mount, then a Husky 550XP could use the B&C from the Wild Thang

Up to 20” on the 543XP(it usually gets a 13” or 16”) 353, 346XP or 550XP, I use .325 pitch B&C’s

The 24” and 28”, and dayumed if I can remember if I do have a 32” and and a couple loops for it, I run 3/8”/.050

For the 36”, 44”, 60” and 72” bars I run .404/.063

To ME, I don’t see much reason to only go 2” difference in bar length, but you may see it differently.

If the Wild Thang IS a K095 mount you could get a 20 or 24” B&C(or BOTH ) for the 550XP, it should handle it, if maybe a bit slower when buried, unless you are cutting a lot of HARD, hardwoods.

Definitely stay with a .325 pitch putting a 24” on a 550XP

I have a later version 550XP MK1, and I haven’t had any of the issues the earlier ones were some what known for, it’s been a very reliable saw for me, though it does “Wake up” a little slower than some saws



Doug

 

[Husky Man]

Guess I can add my 2 cents in here for what saws. 50cc I like the ms261cm. Husqy 550xp would be my second choice. A very nice 346xp would be great as well. (Good luck finding one of them cheap and in good shape) I'm not really a fan of the 50cc saw, much prefer a 60cc saw. Husqy 562xp, had 2 of them great saws, traded in for a stihl ms400cm. Really like it so far. Echo would be the cheaper option as previously mentioned. The 590 is a stout saw. Kinda heavy for power output, but very reliable and warranty can't be match. I wouldn't run any longer then a 20" bar on it personally.

For a “one saw plan” a 60class saw can be a good choice. My first “Good saw” was Ol’ Reliable that I bought back around 91’, after a year or two, I decided that it was overkill for a lot of things, and I got a Husky 23 Compact, a little top handle.

For about 25 years or so, those were my two saw plan, before I even knew that I had a two saw plan

Then We bought a house with a nice wood stove, and I got interested in milling. A lot of the wood we were cutting was 30-36”, and at higher elevations, up to around 6,000’, I finally decided that the 266XP is a great saw, but that I was asking too much of it.

I thought about the 395XP, but I was also interested in milling, and Davethechainsawguy had the 3120XP PHO for about $200 more than I could get a 395XP

A 66.7cc 266XP, to a 119cc 3120XP, WOWtalk about a CHANGE

Some questions about the 3120XP lead me to AS, and that lead to a somewhat serious case of CAD, 14 saws (Plus the Wife’s 445) later, and here I am

I didn’t appreciate the 50cc class saws until I got my 353, which was shortly followed by the 550XP. For a lot of my cutting, the 50’s are a great fit.

Now the 60cc saws don’t get as much use, if it is too big for the 50’s, I tend to grab past the 60’s for one of the 372’XP’s or one of my Team .404

I gotta say that even though it is a Heavy Bugger, bucking BIG wood with a 36” or 44” bar on the 3120XP sure puts a SMILE on your face, that saw is like a Rabid Beaver on Steroids

After I got the 390XP, and the 395XP’s, the 3120XP has pretty much become dedicated to milling, and doesn’t get out to the woods very often anymore


Doug

 

[sean donato]

For a “one saw plan” a 60class saw can be a good choice. My first “Good saw” was Ol’ Reliable that I bought back around 91’, after a year or two, I decided that it was overkill for a lot of things, and I got a Husky 23 Compact, a little top handle.

For about 25 years or so, those were my two saw plan, before I even knew that I had a two saw plan

Then We bought a house with a nice wood stove, and I got interested in milling. A lot of the wood we were cutting was 30-36”, a Azz nd at higher elevations, up to around 6,000’, I finally decided that the 266XP is a great saw, but that I was asking too much of it.

I thought about the 395XP, but I was also interested in milling, and Davethechainsawguy had the 3120XP PHO for about $200 more than I could get a 395XP

A 66.7cc 266XP, to a 119cc 3120XP, WOWtalk about a CHANGE

Some questions about the 3120XP lead me to AS, and that lead to a somewhat serious case of CAD, 14 saws (Plus the Wife’s 445) later, and here I am

I didn’t appreciate the 50cc class saws until I got my 353, which was shortly followed by the 550XP. For a lot of my cutting, the 50’s are a great fit.

Now the 60cc saws don’t get as much use, if it is too big for the 50’s, I tend to grab past the 60’s for one of the 372’XP’s or one of my Team .404

I gotta say that even though it is a Heavy Bugger, bucking BIG wood with a 36” or 44” bar on the 3120XP sure puts a SMILE on your face, that saw is like a Rabid Beaver on Steroids

After I got the 390XP, and the 395XP’s, the 3120XP has pretty much become dedicated to milling, and doesn’t get out to the woods very often anymore


Doug

I'm 99% hardwood around here. I have a ported 346xp, and dad got my ported 026. Both great saws, but I found after getting the 562xp the 50cc saws just sat. Then I jumped up to a 390xp and 394/5xp. The 394xp was bought pretty much for milling. The 390xp I've milled with, but is my "big" felling saw. The 394/5 just doesn't handle well for felling imo and the 390xp handles a 36" very well. I'd love a 3120xp, but had an 084av and honestly the 390xp was about a second slower in the same wood both pulling 36" bars, but the 390xp wore you out considerably less. The 084 went to a cousin. Just can't justify an over 100cc saw for the little I'd use it. Heck I rarely use the 394/5xp.

 

[CutsThroughKnots]

I'll know a little better where I stand after tomorrow or Sunday at the latest. By then I'll have had a chance to run the 590 and see how it compares to my box store special. I think it was Doug who brought up an interesting point, one that I was going to mention: Probably few of you have much if any experience on one of the basic homeowner models. Or if you used one, it was a distant and unpleasant memory. So it may in fact be hard to compare the pro models you use to the box store specials. For my saw, it doesn't owe me a danged thing. I saw the owner tossing it in the general trash at the landfill and I said I'd take it off his hands. For one thing, it didn't belong in with the general refuse, as it has metal that can be recycled. For another, I liked the idea of getting a free saw and it looked like it had hardly been used. That's why I called it a "dumpster special." It was going in the trash. After replacing the dried and broken fuel lines it has never failed to start and cut anything I have. Granted, nothing was over 20" or so, but with a sharp chain this saw did all I asked of it. I am looking at some of the bigger standing ash I'll be taking down--ones with 24" or bigger trunks and standing tall. A tree expert would probably top them before putting them on the ground but I have the luxury of dropping the whole tree so long as it doesn't kill me first. I'm having second thoughts about my little green saw with its 18" B&C. I'd feel more confident with something bigger and with a bit more power. Maybe just a psychological edge, I don't know. Like I said, my little Poulan doesn't owe me anything--if it quit tomorrow I'd still be ahead. I've been using it for over five years now. I appreciate the replies--I'll check in with what I decide to do.

 

[sean donato]

I'll know a little better where I stand after tomorrow or Sunday at the latest. By then I'll have had a chance to run the 590 and see how it compares to my box store special. I think it was Doug who brought up an interesting point, one that I was going to mention: Probably few of you have much if any experience on one of the basic homeowner models. Or if you used one, it was a distant and unpleasant memory. So it may in fact be hard to compare the pro models you use to the box store specials. For my saw, it doesn't owe me a danged thing. I saw the owner tossing it in the general trash at the landfill and I said I'd take it off his hands. For one thing, it didn't belong in with the general refuse, as it has metal that can be recycled. For another, I liked the idea of getting a free saw and it looked like it had hardly been used. That's why I called it a "dumpster special." It was going in the trash. After replacing the dried and broken fuel lines it has never failed to start and cut anything I have. Granted, nothing was over 20" or so, but with a sharp chain this saw did all I asked of it. I am looking at some of the bigger standing ash I'll be taking down--ones with 24" or bigger trunks and standing tall. A tree expert would probably top them before putting them on the ground but I have the luxury of dropping the whole tree so long as it doesn't kill me first. I'm having second thoughts about my little green saw with its 18" B&C. I'd feel more confident with something bigger and with a bit more power. Maybe just a psychological edge, I don't know. Like I said, my little Poulan doesn't owe me anything--if it quit tomorrow I'd still be ahead. I've been using it for over five years now. I appreciate the replies--I'll check in with what I decide to do.

I've ran many throw away saws, including many poulans. I have a few ryobi 40cc saw here now that I bought for parts for a red max. Used to pick up homeowners saws for peanuts to keep around as loaners, but like everything the prices went up and I lost interest. Truthfully you can't compare a pro vs a box store saw. They are made for totally different end users, with different expectations. Understand the first saw I bought new was a box store 435 husqy. It gave me a lot of issues once I started doing more cutting and I ended up replacing it with a pro modle saw and never looked back. Continuing with this theme our go to saws at the township were ms180 stihls. $200.00 homeowner saws. They worked. They were gutless and on the occasion where we had to take down a tree I'd jump up to the 044av,.or bring one of my saws in. It's really hard to describe the difference between the two classes of saws till you've ran one vs the other. Don't get me wrong, homeowners saws have their place.