Project Stumpbroke How I do it

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Thanks for taking the time to post this. A few questions. Can you acheive close to the same gains without lower the cylinder base? Also, what kind of bit are you using.
 
Nice pics stumpy, I enjoy the step by step shots. I got a question, I've used a ring to make my horizontal marks before but never used a piston. Do you care to explain how you hold, measure, and mark using a piston?
 
Thanks for taking the time to post this. A few questions. Can you acheive close to the same gains without lower the cylinder base? Also, what kind of bit are you using.

That's a pretty standard tungsten carbide die grinder bit, 6mm by the look. If you find a good tool shop they usually have a small case full of them, you get what you pay for and the good ones aren't cheap. Last a long time though, especially on aluminum. They have about a dozen shapes usually, that one's called a 'Round Cyllinder'. it's one of the more useful shapes. The square ended cylinders are prone to gouging, the elyptical ones are difficult to get a flat edge from, spheres are pretty concentrated and triangles are just plain weird to keep under control.

Shaun
 
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I love reading about all the porting jobs but have never really understood what was going on. This explanatory thread has made a light bulb go on in my mind. This site is awesome and you are not just an artist and technician Stumpy, you are now also a teacher. Thank you very much for this thread, I think it will be referred to by many for a long time. Russ
 
Thanks for taking the time to post this. A few questions. Can you acheive close to the same gains without lower the cylinder base? Also, what kind of bit are you using.
Yes, you can get respectable gains without all the machine work.
The bit is a 5/16" x 1/4'' carbid, round nosed cylinder.

Nice pics stumpy, I enjoy the step by step shots. I got a question, I've used a ring to make my horizontal marks before but never used a piston. Do you care to explain how you hold, measure, and mark using a piston?

I slide the piston in upside down with the crown facing the the bottom of the cyl. I clamp the cyl in the vice horizontally so the piston doesn't move. Then I set my caliper to the desired measurement & push the piston in the bore with the depth gauge "stick" on the caliper. I have to hold the piston in place with my finger through one of the ports & then make a mark. I'll try to get a pic of this in a bit.
 
Yes, you can get respectable gains without all the machine work.
The bit is a 5/16" x 1/4'' carbid, round nosed cylinder.

Those carbide bur bits are awesome! And they come in all shapes and sizes. And your oil trick works good too...
This is the tapered type.

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