Recommend Bar Oil & 2 Stroke Oil

[Damo]

Could someone, (in the know), please recommend a Bar Oil & a 2 Stroke Oil for a 660 Magnum and please state why? I've heard a few people mention that oils ARE oils rather than the other way round. I've got a Stihl Rollamatic 25" inch bar at present and the chain has E4 Stamped on the side links and 6 stamped on the drive links???
Also, is there an up and/or down side to running PREMIUM UNLEADED rather than STANDARD UNLEADED?? Thanks[/COLOR].

 

[GASoline71]

Do a quick search of the threads....

Here is a recent post.... www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=23969

Gary

 

[Damo]

Thanks mate. I s'pose everywhere you go you'll get differing opinions, its just that the 660 is new and I'm still into babying it!

 

[Lawn Masters]

Just stick with the Stihl oil, its just fine for your saw. for bar oil, I wont go there, I cant comment on it too well, I've used many things, that list includes, transmission fluid, engine oil(clean oil of course) and bar oil to name a few. if you dont wish to run stihl oil, there are alternatives, like the Mobil Racing 2T oil, which is full synthetic. I run that oil when I can find it and love it.

 

[GASoline71]

This can of worms gets opened on the boards here a lot. So expect a few smart-aleky answers.

I have only had Stihl saws, and have only run Stihl oil products in them. It may be a tad more expensive than the local bargain-mart, but I view it as cheap insurance to run Stihl oils in Stihl saws.

I run 40:1 in my older saws (041 and 032), and 50:1 in my newer saw (028). I have never had an oil related problem. You are gonna get 500 different opinions from 500 different people on here. Good quality oils that are available to you in your area will be good, and mix your 2-stroke according to Stihls specs. Others here will run 40:1, or even 32:1 in all their saws, whether they are new or old.

That 660 is a big'un ain't it? It will take any punishment you can throw at it. After it's broke in there will be no need to baby it. Let 'er rip!

Gary

 

[Damo]

We run almost everything down here at 25:1...I think its an unjustified "safety" ploy, but blokes down our way will always wany a bit more lubricant, arther than less...could this be the reason why we often get premature fouling of the spark plug? I'm still somewhat nervous running my saw that lean...I think it's time I built a bridge! Thanx again GASoline.

 

[GASoline71]

...could this be the reason why we often get premature fouling of the spark plug? ..

It's a very good possibility... Never fouled a plug myself.

Gary

 

[NWCS]

for Mix, i use Stihl 50:1 for customer saws, and in my saws i run 32:1 motorcycle racing oil. as for bar oil, i use Stihl, AeroTack and a special Chevron blend from a local refinery that i buy in the 5gal bucket.
if you were local i would say bring a container over and ill fill it up cheap..
i have had bad luck with cheap 2cycle mix like Poulan.. my first new saw was a Poulan Pro 255.. running poulan mix at 50:1 the piston ate itself up.. i switched to stihl mix after the dealer put a new cyl and piston on under warranty back in 94 or so.. still running strong to this day. their oil may have changed alot since the mid 90's.. but once bitten..

 

[Damo]

Thanks dedcow. Any ideas on higher or lower octane?? Say 87% standard versus 95% premium unleaded...any benifits or drawbacks...the saw is less than a year old so I feel like a new daddy!! (I want to get everything right).

 

[CNYCountry]

Spend the extra money for the premium fuel. I'm fairly sure that my 361 requires 91 octane or better, I would imagine that a 660 has similar requirements. It's fairly well agreed that it will make the saw run cooler, because you have less chance of detonation and that's what really transfers heat to the piston/jug, and if it's bad enough it causes scuffing because of the way the piston heats and expands in a non-round shape.

I am sure with the stupid prices on gasoline people are not buying premium unless they have to, so, being as picky as I am, I pump a gallon or two into whatever I am driving when I go get the gas to make sure it's as fresh as possible (for pumps with a separate premium hose) and is actually premium (for pumps with the same hose for all grades), and then pump my saw gas can. I know it's probably overkill.

There was discussion on here about spending the money on an airtight steel can instead of the plastic ones, the fuel will stay fresher. I have heard also when using plastic cans not to let the mix get older than anywhere from a week to a month. I try to use it in a week or at the most two. I'm sure part of this is because you don't know how fresh it is when you get it out of the pump. If you let the gasoline get old at all the mix oil will tend to separate easier and you have lubrication problems.

 

[Damo]

No worrys. thanks for that...I'm a bit into overkill myself, especially with good equipment. 50:1 here I come !!

 

[Stihl Racer]

If your running a Stihl chainsaw, i cannot stress enough to run Stihl mix oil. When you buy a Stihl, you will loose your warrenty instantly if you use any other oil and for good reason. Anything else just dosent have the same properties. Ive seen 660's come in 2 weeks old with smoked piston cylinders and there running another brand oil. People think they save money in the long run, using the cheaper oil but remember you always get what you pay for. As far as bar oil....the brand dosent matter much just maintain the use of bar oil, and not used engine oil, which i see way too much of. And use the proper weight...ie heavy in summer, light in winter and medium for fall and spring. But the main thing is if your running a 660 definatly go with stihl mix oil!!!!

 

[cbfarmall]

When you buy a Stihl, you will loose your warrenty instantly if you use any other oil and for good reason.

I don't think this is true. In fact, I believe it would be illegal. The oil just has to meet certain specifications. Don't remember the details.

Chris B.

 

[AirplaneAnthony]

Guys with gas airplane engines run 80:1 and 100:1 synthetic oil. I have always ran the Stihl oil in all my Stihl equipment at 50:1. Actually, I run the same in my Mac 3200 too.

 

[NWCS]

actually guys, i want to clarify something. if a saw maker states to keep your warranty you have to use their oil. THEY MUST GIVE IT TO PROVEN OWNERS FOR THE WARRANTY PERIOD.. i was sat down and told this by several people when i went ranting about my poulan back in 95.. dealer told me only to use their oil.. you will NOT see stihl saying this in their warranty... they do not require stihl oil. that applies to anything, not just saws.

i personally wouldnt mind having free oil supplied to me!

 

[asb151]

Why would anyone try and save money buying cheap 2 stroke oil. Forget for a moment any damage that might occur using it.

A 6 pack of 6.4 oz Husky 2 stroke oil costs about $8.00 near me. At 50:1 that will make 15 gallons of gas mix. If you found something half as expensive that means you are saving $4.00 for every 15 gallons you burn. If you are using 40:1 you still need to use 12 gallons to save $4.00. Even if you adjust the numbers a little I just can't see it. I can think of a lot better ways to save money than that.

 

[G-MAN]

A few comments on Stihl oil. They are the only manufacture that gives their spec to an oil company. Many other companys have their name put on a bottle and thats it.
As for those who run thick oil mixes( 25-1, 30-1 ),its no better than running lean mixes above 50-1. Your fuel provides approx. 75% of your cooling to your engine. the more oil in the mix the less cooling provided. If a manufacture such as Stihl recomends 50-1 mix wouldn't you think with all the money they spend in enginering they would know know what mix is best for their saws.

 

[NWCS]

actually, you must keep in mind something companies want that we dont allways want. their focus is minimal smoke, EPA regulation, economy..
50:1 will keep your saw going just fine yes, but that leaves posibility for dirt to cause more problems. if the engine stays perfectly clean your safe. i feel i get more power and safety out of 32:1. most of my cutting is around sand.. and LOTS of it.. if that stuff gets past my filter i want a little extra buffer of oil around my piston and bearings.. that 32:1 may not save the saw but it should minimize the damage a bit. i would rather have a scoured piston than a stuck piston if it came down to that situation.

 

[G-MAN]

I've never seen sand get past an air filter. and if it does all the oil in the world will not save it.

 

[tony marks]

alot of discussion has been given to this subject..i finally started running 32-40--1 mx2t.
i use some hjomeowner equipment in my buisiness. since i started using mx2t.. ive yet to have an homeowner motor go down. in the past when i used these disposable types of equipment. i always expected failure after a couple of yrs.it was a given . something i expected due to cheap prices. i mite ad that the motor im speaking of was the poulan 25cc motor. this cheapy is one ive found to be durable.
now without adjustable carbs ,i cant recommend this motor any longer..
stihl newer engines seem to hold up an run satisfactorily . but i still wish the adjustments were there.i recently bought an hedge trimmer and grass trimmer that are dependable and function well. they are all on 32-1 mx2t . i like synthetic because i can use more lubricant without fouling plugs or heavy exhaust deposits,etc