Recommend Bar Oil & 2 Stroke Oil

[Damo]

There is talk that synthetic oil does NOT get into the tiny pores in the cylinder !!! Mind you there's a lot of talk !! I just think it's worth a mention so some of you think-tanks out there can let us know the wood for trees. Keep cuttin' !

 

[2Coilinveins]

G-Man, as to the cooling bit, are you assuming that the engine is not retuned for the new fuel/oil mixture? If the engine is retuned, I don't understand how the amount of gasoline(and therefore cooling, still not sure if that's correct) changes at all, just the amount of oil carried along with the gasoline.

 

[BigUglySquirrel]

We run almost everything down here at 25:1...I think its an unjustified "safety" ploy, but blokes down our way will always wany a bit more lubricant, arther than less...could this be the reason why we often get premature fouling of the spark plug? I'm still somewhat nervous running my saw that lean...I think it's time I built a bridge! Thanx again GASoline.

Yikes! I have no idea about how elevation or atmosphere might effect your area, but 25:1 seems a tad silly to me. On the upside I guess you won't have to worry about lean seizure as much. I run 50:1 in just about everything and all my saws are newer. Older saws will probably require a bit more oil. I'm into dirtbikes and quads and I know guys that mix certain oils at 100:1 with no issues. That's far too lean for me, but these few fellas ride hard and long and one has 4 seasons on a rather modded '00 Banshee and the other has 2 seasons on a '00 CR250. Still great comression and no issues....and no fouling. I do use Stihl High Performance 2 stroke (very convenient mixing....1 gallon+1 bottle=Why aren't you working?) I believe in Stihl bar oil, and I believe in high octane gas for 2 strokes. I haven't had any issues related to these products or their respective areas of saw maintenance. And if it means anything...this is coming from a Husqvarna guy.

 

[BigUglySquirrel]

actually, you must keep in mind something companies want that we dont allways want. their focus is minimal smoke, EPA regulation, economy..
50:1 will keep your saw going just fine yes, but that leaves posibility for dirt to cause more problems. if the engine stays perfectly clean your safe. i feel i get more power and safety out of 32:1. most of my cutting is around sand.. and LOTS of it.. if that stuff gets past my filter i want a little extra buffer of oil around my piston and bearings.. that 32:1 may not save the saw but it should minimize the damage a bit. i would rather have a scoured piston than a stuck piston if it came down to that situation.

I understand your reasoning, but I fear that it is misguided. If sand gets in, no mix ratio in the world will help. (2 strokes, of course) It will cause the wear it is going to cause regardless of your oil type or ratio. It's easy to draw the conclusion more oil=more resistance to particulate wear, but that really is not how it works. The only way to prevent wear is to stop the contamination of your crankcase. If you are concerned about sand, I would consider a precleaner for your filters. Something that you can remove and dispose/clean on the site without removing your filter. This negates the concern of sand past the filter altogether. As nuts as this sounds, I have used women's panythose cut into peices and stretched tight over the filter on my dirtbikes to help cure the same problem you are decribing. The engine can still breathe, and the precleaner is easy to r&r in the field and the cost is minimal. Lo and behold, there is a company actually marketing the same idea for quads/bikes. (filterskins) They've become a staple in competion riding. Good luck!

 

[G-MAN]

G-Man, as to the cooling bit, are you assuming that the engine is not retuned for the new fuel/oil mixture? If the engine is retuned, I don't understand how the amount of gasoline(and therefore cooling, still not sure if that's correct) changes at all, just the amount of oil carried along with the gasoline.

Rich and lean have to do with the amount of fuel and oil mix entering the engine. If 14-1 ratio of air to fuel mix is optimal running conditions your rich lean condition is controlled by carb. settings. Either adding more fuel or air. your oil ratio remains constant.

Now if you add more oil to your gas incresing it to say 25-1 mix that means that you have less fuel or gas to cool your engine. Cooling is provided by fuel by evaporating when it hits the piston and carring heat away. Much like when you sweat. so the more oil you have the less cooling.

 

[AirplaneAnthony]

Any of you guys run Amsoil in your saws?

 

[2Coilinveins]

I think we're trying to say the same thing. After an oil/fuel ratio change, it is imperative that the saw is retuned for the new oil/fuel ratio. Thereby the total volume of fluid into the engine is increased, so that the amount of fuel remains the same, but carries more oil into the engine.

If the engine isn't retuned after an oil/fuel ratio change, then yes I completely agree with you.

 

[NWCS]

i have seen too many engine issues to run Amsoil... you can check out one of Dean's old posts about causing stuck rings. trashed a piston on an old Yamaha DT1 250cc dirtbike with that stuff.. piston was so sloppy the engine rang like a bell at an idle.

 

[AirplaneAnthony]

What about Yamalube?

 

[average joe]

Yikes!!

 

[tony marks]

sure gas cools but u wouldnt have to use lube at all if it didnt reduce friction.
friction translates into heat . so i guess it would have to be proven to me that less lube runs cooler. using high test .so if u guys have seen it on machines that measure facts rather than theory . i guess id have to believe it. but i would have to see it done by someone not trying to prove a point but just trying to find out find out what really is the case.im sure its already been done by some on here.

 

[G-MAN]

At stihl inc. they have an 036 that was well broken in that ran eight tanks of 91 oct. straight gas without even scaring the pis/cylinder.

 

[Simonizer]

At stihl inc. they have an 036 that was well broken in that ran eight tanks of 91 oct. straight gas without even scaring the pis/cylinder.

??? idling with zero load? Where did you get this info?

 

[Stihl 041 super]

castrol

did you guys know that stihl oils are made by castrol.

 

[Gravely Grinch]

I run Echo oil 50/1 in all of my 2 smokers. At an Echo school I went to they took a GT2000 out of the box and ran it all day WOT. At the end of the day we took the unit apart and found no visible wear, good oil film on the piston. Here's the catch....the mix was 100/1 Echo oil. If a string trimmer can survive break in at WOT running 100/1 I know I'm gettin plenty of lube @ 50/1.

 

[GASoline71]

This came straight from Stihl's website:

STIHL 2-cycle oils are formulated to meet the high temperatures and lean running conditions of today's highly innovative and technically advanced engines.

All STIHL 2-cycle oils contain a fuel stabilizer for longer storage life and to prevent fuel varnishing. It is not an octane booster.

STIHL recommends a mix of 50:1 high-quality regular 89 octane, unleaded gasoline to STIHL engine oil. This same mix ratio should be used during break-in.

Just in case anyone gives a rip.

Gary

 

[G-MAN]

??? idling with zero load? Where did you get this info?

No, 8 tanks cutting, and the info is from Stihl's gold school. the service manager at stihl inc performed the test.
Castrol only makes the oil for stihl outside the US.

 

[Damo]

So here in Oz I should buy Castrol Oil or Stihl oil...same thing ??
From what Gary said, there is no benifit in high-octane ??
The mind doth boggle !

 

[a_lopa]

yes stihl oil here is castrol.

 

[rustyb]

Bar oils......

If you're not afraid of the term "alternative", here's a lengthy thread on bar oil to ponder:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=20909

If this is something you want to try, I would not recommend Rapeseed. Its makeup is a bit different to that of Canalo and can cause respiratory problems.

I am still using Canalo in all four of my saws and WILL NOT be switching back to conventional bar/chain oil. Of course, the longest bar I use is 18". A longer bar could affect things, I don't know. There's only one way to find out though........