Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[PogoInTheWoods]

One other thing; is the wrist pin bearing a press fit into the small rod end or should it be easily replaceable? This one isn't budging and I don't want needles all over
the place trying to remove it if it's not supposed to be.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

FWIW to anyone else, PL4 seals, bearings, and piston directly cross to manual oiler XL parts with the top end being the 1 13/16's bore. SKF 6119's (or others including National 253747's or Poulan 530019097's) for aftermarket seals, and bearings are BH108's on both sides.
It's an XL.

 

[cbfarmall]

One other thing; is the wrist pin bearing a press fit into the small rod end or should it be easily replaceable? This one isn't budging and I don't want needles all over
the place trying to remove it if it's not supposed to be.

I've not encountered an American saw of that vintage with a loose-type wrist pin bearing. (There's a technical name for it that escapes me.) All have been press fit and sometimes 2 bearings. Find a socket a bit larger than the bearing OD to support the rod end and press on the lettered/numbered end. If you hammer it out, you may dislodge needles. If they are that loose, it probably needs to be replaced and it will almost certainly be an off-the-shelf common bearing.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thank you for the input. They do seem to be available. I think I'll take my chances with the one that's there over maybe hosing something up trying to replace it. I have an AM piston kit on the way. I'll see how the new wrist pin feels and go from there.

 

[ML12]

The wrist pin bearings are usually pressed in as Chris mentioned. I made a tool for doing the ones on the large pioneers as I tend to do a lot of them for some reason. Usually do it in a bench vise as I don't have a press. The piece holds the bearing straight and then presses on the race. Works good. The other half supports the rod and allows the bearing to be pressed through the rod into it during bearing removal.

 

[ML12]

Took some photos outside with better lighting.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Very nice. Cool setup for doing those bearings, too.

 

[67L36Driver]

Small end of the rod takes a common drawn cup needle bearing. Press fit.

IDK the number.

SL-4 uses the Super XL piston, teeth, hair and eyeballs. 1.8125” bore.

XL-12 is 1/16” too small. 1.750” diameter.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I found an old XL IPL that identifies most of those changes as they occurred across the variants. Very helpful.

 

[happysaws]

...I am looking for....an IPL for the 880G. Thanks!

Bump
Anyone?

 

[edju1958]

I picked up an "Agway" version of a PL4 last week & got it delivered today.The saw's not in terrible shape,other than massive paint loss.It doesn't have spark at this point,but will work on that tomorrow.
The fuel line that's in the tank is questionable,how do I replace it without tearing the entire right side of the saw apart?As it was I cut about 1 1/2 in.off that was completely collapsed & rotten.I was able to put a regular filter in the line that was left,but I don't know how long it'll last,or if it'll still work.
I took the muffler off & the piston & cylinder are in great shape,no scoring at all.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The fuel line that's in the tank is questionable,how do I replace it without tearing the entire right side of the saw apart?

Unscrew the fitting.

 

[edju1958]

Unscrew the fitting.

In order to unscrew the fitting I need to remove the handle bracket.In order to remove the handle bracket I need to tear the right side of the saw off as far as I can see.Does the handle bracket come off without tearing the entire right side of the saw off?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I see what you mean. The one I'm working on is already apart. Looked easy enough! LOL.

Still looks easy enough to just replace the hose through the fuel cap opening with needle nose pliers or forceps.

 

[edju1958]

I see what you mean. The one I'm working on is already apart. Looked easy enough! LOL.

Still looks easy enough to just replace the hose through the fuel cap opening with needle nose pliers or forceps.

Thanks Poge,I'll give that a try when the time comes.

 

[edju1958]

I'm happy to say that the PL4 is a runner! I had to get spark on it first.The points were burnt pretty bad,I didn't know if I'd be able to salvage them or not,but I like to take them right out of the saw to clean them up.I can see them much better that way & clean more easily too.I didn't even mess with the condenser that was in it,I just happened to have one that fit the bill on hand.So clean points & a good condenser gave me spark.Next was carburetion.I had a feeling that I wouldn't have to take the carb off for a rebuild because the air box was nice & clean (of course that doesn't mean a thing,but it helps).I just kept priming it till it caught & ran on it's own.I shut it off & restarted it several times to make sure.The last thing on the list was to get the oiler working.I put some winter grade Tractor Supply oil in it & began pumping & eventually it started puking oil at the bar pad.The saw only came with a 16 in.bar & chain,I'll be putting a 20 in.bar & chain on it & use the 16 in.on one of my SL9s.I'll get pics on here tomorrow.

 

[67L36Driver]

Don’t forget to loosen the oil fill cap to ‘burp’ the pressure.

 

[edju1958]

Why do I need to do that?It's not an automatic (as far as I know).Here are some pics.I wanted to put a 20 in.bar & chain on in place of the puny 16 in.that it came with,but the bar slot on the 20 in.was 5/16 & the bar studs are 3/8.I did manage to find an 18 in.though.

 

[67L36Driver]

Homelite bar mount on them. Oregon D196

 

[clint53]

Got this FB message from a neighbor today.


Everything is there and it's not locked up.


Nuff said.