Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[67L36Driver]

Carl - the r/w Logmaster is boxed up, should be able to send it out Saturday USPS.

Whoever else said they wanted the three golden Logmasters please remind me and I will try to.get them out Saturday as well.

Mark

Thanks Mark!

Got the garage straightened out and cleaned up. Working on a Lombard on my work bench and not next to it.

There is now stuff I can't find since I put it away......................................................

 

[Chris J.]

...

Whoever else said they wanted the three golden Logmasters please remind me and I will try to.get them out Saturday as well.

Mark

Three Golden Logmasters!! Somebody is going to have some nice projects :msp_thumbup:.

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VINTAGE REMINGTON CHAIN SAW SIGN | eBay

Nice sign, but the shipping seems way too high.

 

[dff110]

Figured I would ask in here before the Mag swap meet channel. Does anyone have a PL-5 for parts? I especially need the fiber washers for the starter. And a new Crankshaft would be good too. Drive side threads that hold the sprocket Assembly on are stripped.

Really not much to trade other than Mighty Mite parts. But I do have green stuff.

Thanks
Dustin

 

[67L36Driver]

Figured I would ask in here before the Mag swap meet channel. Does anyone have a PL-5 for parts? I especially need the fiber washers for the starter. And a new Crankshaft would be good too. Drive side threads that hold the sprocket Assembly on are stripped.

Really not much to trade other than Mighty Mite parts. But I do have green stuff.

Thanks
Dustin

I have a Wards/PL-5 that the piston's top ring land is blown out on. Part of the pile Mark H. left me.

I was planning on stripping it for parts anyway.

 

[dff110]

I have a Wards/PL-5 that the piston's top ring land is blown out on. Part of the pile Mark H. left me.

I was planning on stripping it for parts anyway.

That would be great. I'm in no big rush for it. I think I will clean this one up and re-paint it.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Gotta love the 754. I have 7 of them. They make beautiful restoration pieces

Well I will ask you then.My 754 is a long story but i will keep it short. Rebuilt the NRD Carb, New gas line,Repaired a leaking oil tank, Straightened the oil pump rod,Built a muffler Baffel, The starter spring broke so I fixed that then she ran ,... not good but it ran then,... The chain kept jumping off the sproket so it finally took the clutch off today and found the washer thing that keeps it from falling off the sproket was worn out and broken off.So I made a washer to take its place put it all back together and got ready to start her up.
Guess what now the recoil palls are not enguaging the cup? She spools out and back just fine it worked before i set her on the floor a month ago now i get nothing?.Took the recoil assembly off and on 10 times everything looks ok it just all of a sudden will not hook up to the cup when pulled over. Some times when i am taking the recoil off and it is loose it will start to enguage the cup.What the HE!L is up with this thing. If you have any ideas i would be greatfull.I am so ready to see this old girl someplace else.

 

[Chris J.]

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VINTAGE REMINGTON CHAIN SAW SIGN | eBay

Nice sign, but the shipping seems way too high.

The seller fixed the shipping charge; not much time left in the auction.

 

[67L36Driver]

Care package from Iowa.

GL-7 arrived from Mark H.

Very, very close to matching the Pro 88. Clutch cover seems to be the only difference.

 

[67L36Driver]

Jeff Lary: Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, I have a Poulan with the Fairbanks-Morse starter that won't engage also. I've been here before and it is frustrating.

Trick is, no lube on the fiber washers, only on the pulley spindle and the edge of the engagement dogs needs to be sharp corner.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Hey Driver thanks, well I really dont understand this p.o.s. it pulled over fine then sat for a month now no enguagement at all. How did the ole timers ever get any wood cut these old thing always have somthing wrong with them.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Well I will ask you then.My 754 is a long story but i will keep it short. Rebuilt the NRD Carb, New gas line,Repaired a leaking oil tank, Straightened the oil pump rod,Built a muffler Baffel, The starter spring broke so I fixed that then she ran ,... not good but it ran then,... The chain kept jumping off the sproket so it finally took the clutch off today and found the washer thing that keeps it from falling off the sproket was worn out and broken off.So I made a washer to take its place put it all back together and got ready to start her up.
Guess what now the recoil palls are not enguaging the cup? She spools out and back just fine it worked before i set her on the floor a month ago now i get nothing?.Took the recoil assembly off and on 10 times everything looks ok it just all of a sudden will not hook up to the cup when pulled over. Some times when i am taking the recoil off and it is loose it will start to enguage the cup.What the HE!L is up with this thing. If you have any ideas i would be greatfull.I am so ready to see this old girl someplace else.

Sometimes you need to replace the fiber washers. The spring will become weak over
time and not have enough pressure. Most of the time I will file groves in the starter cup
I use the corner of a flat file. About 8 to 10 groves around the inside of the cup for the
starter pawls catch on. It works real good on worn down cups.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Sometimes you need to replace the fiber washers. The spring will become weak over
time and not have enough pressure. Most of the time I will file groves in the starter cup
I use the corner of a flat file. About 8 to 10 groves around the inside of the cup for the
starter pawls catch on. It works real good on worn down cups.

The pawls dont seem to be flying out when the cord is pulled they seem to stay in the retracted position.
I dont see any washers? Unless they are below the pawl assembly?... As you look down you see the E clip,.. then the spring,.. then the pawl assembly . Are the washers below the pawl assembly? Thanks for the intrest if I can get her to run I will give up I just cant get the pawls to engage.It may be it needs the groves cut,But i just dont see the pawl's swinging out when recoil is pulled.

 

[Eccentric]

The pawls dont seem to be flying out when the cord is pulled they seem to stay in the retracted position.
I dont see any washers? Unless they are below the pawl assembly?... As you look down you see the E clip,.. then the spring,.. then the pawl assembly . Are the washers below the pawl assembly? Thanks for the intrest if I can get her to run I will give up I just cant get the pawls to engage.It may be it needs the groves cut,But i just dont see the pawl's swinging out when recoil is pulled.

There's your problem. There should be a fiber washer on each side of the pawl assembly. Some versions have the washers glued to the pawls, with thin 'double-D' holed steel washers on either side of those (the 'D' keeps the steel washers from rotating on the shaft). Others have fiber washers with the 'D' holes to keep THEM from rotating, and they grip the pawl assembly itself (instead of gripping stationary steel washers). On those the pawl hub will have radial grooves on each face around the center hole. Either way, you need a certain amount of friction to retard the pawl hub for the 'dogs' to extend and grip the cup. Without that, you'll have no luck.

Also be sure you have the pawl assemlby installed the right way. If it's flipped, the 'dogs' will not extend (or will extend when the rope RETRACTS instead of when you pull). Gear drive Homelites with 'reverse rotation' engines (such as the Wiz family) have the pawl assembly installed the opposite way of 'normal' (and the rope is wound the other way on the pully, and is routed to come out the other way on the recoil housing)...

 

[Jeff Lary]

There's your problem. There should be a fiber washer on each side of the pawl assembly. Some versions have the washers glued to the pawls, with thin 'double-D' holed washers on either side of those (the 'D' keeps the washers from rotating on the shaft). Others have fiber washers with the 'D' holes to keep THEM from rotating, and they grip the pawl assembly itself. Either way, you need a certain amount of friction to retard the pawl hub for the 'dogs' to extend and grip the cup. Without that, you'll have no luck. Also be sure you have the pawl assemlby installed the right way. If it's flipped, the 'dogs' will not extend (or will extend when the rope RETRACTS instead of when you pull). Gear drive Homelites with 'reverse rotation' engines (such as the Wiz family) have the pawl assembly installed the opposite way of 'normal' (and the rope is wound the other way on the pully, and is routed to come out the other way on the recoil housing)...

So there should be a washer ontop of the assembly and underneath it? And can I make a washer? like out of thin gasket material or somthing else? I am sorry for sounding cheep but I just keep putting Time and Money in this paper weight and still no runny ha ha. thanks Jeff

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Here is your starter.

 

[Eccentric]

In the IPL pic Cliff just posted, you can see the fiber washers (#12) on either side of the pawl. On this version, the 'double D' hole is in the fiber washers. They remain stationary with the shaft, and grip the pawl hub. You could make these fiber washers out of THICK gasket material or leather.

The trick is to end up with enough friction to extend/retract the dogs...................but not so much that the spring can't rewind the pully/rope. Takes trial and error sometimes. You play with spring pressure and friction washer thickness to get things right.

 

[Jeff Lary]

In the IPL pic Cliff just posted, you can see the fiber washers (#12) on either side of the pawl. On this version, the 'double D' hole is in the fiber washers. They remain stationary with the shaft, and grip the pawl hub. You could make these fiber washers out of THICK gasket material or leather.

The trick is to end up with enough friction to extend/retract the dogs...................but not so much that the spring can't rewind the pully/rope. Takes trial and error sometimes. You play with spring pressure and friction washer thickness to get things right.

Ok i will take a closer look ,...you guys are a really big help ya know it? Now the center / shaft only barle sticks up enough to allow enough extra play to install the " E " clip so I will look her over closely to see what I can do.
One of the last things I did before i parked it for a month was I had to heat the spring end and make a new "hook" end as the orig broke off. Now I am pretty sure I re-installed everything in the correct orentation but you mentioned that if the pawl assembly was installed upside down that would be a bad thing.How can I tell if it is right side up or not?

WELL GUESS WHAT ? she runs !
Thanks to you guys help I took the diagram to the shop and tore her apart and what to my suprise did i find .Both fiber washers were there but below the pawl assembly instead of one on each side.While I had it apart I sharpend the pawl ends and re-filed the cup groves. A shot of mix in the head, choke on,and it started right up and ran pretty good.
I think the low speed screw would definitely work its way out as it does not seem to have much of a friction fit to the threads.But all in all she goes.
I did try to use a file i had on the bench for the 5000's ( not good ) to take a little rust off the teeth and,.... Wham, I slipped and you know the rest. Definetly the wrong tool for the job but i knew that when i was giggling like a school girl thinking i was o so clever you know file the top of the tooth then the middle then the gullet then ,...oh yea Wham!

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Ok i will take a closer look ,...you guys are a really big help ya know it? Now the center / shaft only barle sticks up enough to allow enough extra play to install the " E " clip so I will look her over closely to see what I can do.
One of the last things I did before i parked it for a month was I had to heat the spring end and make a new "hook" end as the orig broke off. Now I am pretty sure I re-installed everything in the correct orentation but you mentioned that if the pawl assembly was installed upside down that would be a bad thing.How can I tell if it is right side up or not?

When you pull on the starter. Do the pawls start to move out at all or not?
You may have them up side down.
It only takes a few seconds to turn them over and try it.

 

[Eccentric]

You're welcome. If the pawl assy is in wrong (and the frictions are both in right) the dogs will extend when the rope rewinds rather than when pulled. Looks like you have it sorted though. That mixture screw shoould have a spring on it to apply friction under the head.

 

[paccity]

hope this helps.