Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

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HaHa - had to try. Nah, that 's really not what I meant, I was hoping someone else might have a spare from any other saw. Those are really the only two items I was looking for. I was hoping to find a decent clutch sprocket but I modified one from a big Homelite and it's fine.

Sprocket for a Pro88? That drum is a monster. What homelite part did you use?

I have a good check valve if you want it. But, I'm holding it hostage until you answer the question posed above. :dumb:

Chris B.
 
I think it was for a Super 1050, 8 tooth spur. I had to make some bushings to adapt it as well as weld a plate on the inside to keep the chain from going inward. I may have some photos - will look. If not, as soon as my shoulder will let me lift it down off the ceiling hook, I will get some photos. May not be until March.
 
Found some - all but one of the washer I welded on the back of the spur. I'm using a hard aluminum-bronze alloy. Had to eliminate the roller bearing to get the hub to fit right. The bushing bottoms out against the crank hub just outside the seal. The bushing inside the drum bottoms against the inner bushing so the drum spins freely. That is a 5/8" wide clutch, 8 tooth spur, .404 pitch. According to my 1050 IPL - The clutch drum combo is #A-57341. The drum alone is #65960. A rim type may have been better but this is what I had. I couldn't make enough room to include an outer washer but I really didn't plan to do much cutting with this and hoped I might find an original drum at some point.

DSCN4028 res.jpg DSCN4029 res.jpg DSCN4030 res.jpg DSCN4031 res.jpg
 
And you used a Homey clutch as well. Wondered about that since I know the Pro 88 clutch has a pretty large OD.

That bronze bushing adapter looks just like what Oregon uses on their 10619 drum for Remys.

Give me your address for that check valve.

Chris B.
 
The Oregon 10619 power mate kit is for Bantam types. Is a rim drive drum with flanged bronze bushing and thin spacer washer. Allows one to use something besides NLA 7/16" chain. .404" being a better choice save for the usual .058" guage bars Remington used.
 
Finished this thing up the other day and just fired it today. Bought it a few years ago locally, Shaun just welded up both case halves and the rest was cake.

What I started with:

Rem_mil_1_zpsktaicm4t.jpg


Finished:

remy_mil_1_zpsbnrmrjuz.jpg


I need the brass tag for the recoil cover. Just in case anyone has a spare laying around......
remy_mil_4_zps1axa0vr8.jpg


The 18" bar is the original military spec.
remy_mil_2_zpsqyisimje.jpg


Mark made the muffler cover. Looks pretty darned good I think.
remy_mil_3_zpsbnyjwrzi.jpg
 
So it's over-restored? Never been accused of that. haha.

Can't help with your original question except to say all the Bantam style military saws I've ever seen were gear drives. I thought I saw a picture once of a PL55 or something in military colors. Don't remember much else about it.

Chris B.
 
The saw specifically, I don't know. My other Remy geardrives are pretty powerful. The Bantam geardrive I lucked into just plays with a 42" bar. Though, comparable Homeys and Macs of the time will walk all over the Remingtons. They didn't really get into the big cube saws. And I know my Homey 775G will haul ass all day at 95cc, and don't even mention the 900 series geardrives. For sure, the Remington vibes are pretty good. Plenty of later AV saws shake you more.

Chris B.
 
I think the only way I'll find those is attached to the rest of the saw. So, it'll cost around $300. Not sure that is my wisest investment.

Chris B.


Well, If you bought another with the tag then you would at least have two
saws and swap the tag back and forth. Till you ware the holes out that is.

As for power, I have ran mine a little and was very impressed. Pulled hard
with the 20 inch or so bar it has buried. I was very impressed with it's power.


Lee
 

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