Saw sizes and progression for hardwoods

[Richie841]

After Hurricane Helena, I came to the realization that I need to up my skills and equipment living in on my current property. I've had home owner chainsaws before and am comfortable using chainsaws but now I need to graduate to some big boy equipment being more rural.

Would greatly appreciate some help selecting the best mix of saw sizes for cutting downed trees to get to the main road and general property clean up. I've got local dealers for the big three manufacturers but I'm getting too lost in all the choices of CC's and bar sizes.

Btw, my property and up to the main road is mostly hardwoods. The largest trees that got downed is a around 22 inches in diameter at the base and there are bigger trees around here. I do not plan on felling very large trees on my own right now. Just want to stick to limbing up and bucking right now, then progress as needed as my skills get better.

So, ignoring cost but focusing on quality, what saws sizes do I really need to round out the stable?

 

[trains]

All depends on what your cutting.
having a 16" 20" and 24" bar size on appropriate power head of choice gives you good options.
ie 261 with 16", 361 with 20" and either 461 or 661 with 24".



I would not go out unless I had 16, 24 and 36 options, but again, if its only small stuff down, you dont need the big saws, if you have big stuff down, your going the need to big saws.


edited for typos

 

[Marley5]

I personally wouldn't invest in pro saws for cleanup.....oh sorry about all the devastation caused by Helena.
You'd be fine and enjoy years worth of service with a Stihl MS 250 or Echo CS 490.
Learning how to sharpen a chain will make cleanup significantly easier.

 

[Richie841]

All depends on what your cutting.
having a 16" 20" and 24" bar size on appropriate power head of choice gives you good options.
ie 261 with 16", 361 with 20" and either 461 or 661 with 24".



I would not go out unless I had 16, 24 and 36 options, but again, if its only small stuff down, you dont need the big saws, if you have big stuff down, your going the need to big saws.


edited for typos

Good info. It’s not small stuff.

What size power head to bar length seems right to you? The more I research the more confused I get with CC to Bar length.

 

[sundance]

Good info. It’s not small stuff.

What size power head to bar length seems right to you? The more I research the more confused I get with CC to Bar length.

My usage: A 35CC (Echo CS352) a lot for smaller stuff (and there is usually a lot with a big tree). A 50cc (currently an Echo CS4910) for a lot of the wood. A 60cc (Stihl 036) for the bigger wood. The Stihl has a 20" bar, will easily cut 28-30" wood. Nothing bigger, I'd like to have a big saw but can't really justify for what I cut.
If I was starting out on saws I'd look at Echo's. I think they're the best bang for the buck. If I worked wood for a living I'd look at pro grade Stihl/Husky.

 

[moxiemaul]

I have a little echo cs310, 14" bar which does just fine. Its a bit slow on big hard stuff but oh so light to swing when limbing and cleaning up. Definitely slow going when bucking over 12" but take it easy and appreciate the light weight. Keep the bigger saws on standby until you're ready for them.

I wouldnt expect a 310 to take a lot of abuse, but this isn't a for-profit exercise, so don't abuse it...

 

[trains]

Good info. It’s not small stuff.

What size power head to bar length seems right to you? The more I research the more confused I get with CC to Bar length.

Hi Richie841,

That combo is what I use on aussie hard woods, yes you can put larger bars on those power heads if your cutting balsa wood, but hard woods you want shorter bars.

I put up the saws and bar length combo, not to push pro saws, but just give an idea of cc power head to bar length that I know works well.


Personally I run
261 is 50cc 3.8hp, running 16" .325 063 chain, I primarily run semi chisel on all saws.
361 is 60cc 4.6hp running 18" 3/8 063
461 is 76cc 6hp running 24" 3/8 063
661 is 92cc 7.2hp running 24" to 36" 3/8 063

hope that helps.

 

[EastCoastGreg]

So…as most have said…it all depends. If money is not relevant, then buy pro grade because they will last your lifetime with proper maintenance. So many factors play into what you are doing though. If you need a saw for big hardwood then size matters. Engine displacement is needed to make the work faster and easier. A larger saw with a long bar and a full skip chain is my preference. It will cut everything, is “relatively” lightweight, chain speed stays up, and it keeps you from bending over all the time. I run a 372xp with a skip chain and a 28” bar as my “do all” saw. Buying a different size bar and chain for the same saw also makes the job easier when needed without the extra bar length and weight. I lean toward Husqvarna but own many other brands. Any 70cc class saw will do everything you have said you plan on doing.

That being said, i am spoiled with saws and choices when cutting. If I am limbing a tree I use a 50cc class saw and I grab my ole’ 346xp NE or the 026 Stihl because they are light and fast cutting and never fail me. If I am cutting big hardwoods I use a 395xp because it pulls like a mule. If I am climbing a tree then i use a pro grade top handle, right now I’ve been using a t540ixp because i love the ease of a battery saw. If i am bucking a lot of wood i grab the 372xp because i has the nice balance of power and weight.

If you have a fair amount of land then a 50cc saw for limbing and light work is great. Pair that with a 70cc saw you can do almost everything you’ll need to with relative ease and if you get into really big wood you can still do it but slower than a 90cc class saw.

Everyone has their preferences, so getting an absolute answer is not gonna happen, there are just too many variables and these are just my preferences. Hope it helps some.

 

[J D]

My points to consider would be... are you looking at a 2 saw plan or a 3 saw plan, what do you already have, do you intend to do your own maintenance & repairs ,what are the different dealers like in your area.
2 saw plan I agree with Greg, 50cc with a 16" bar & 70cc with 20" & 24" bars.
3 saw plan, light limbing saw with 16" bar, 60cc saw with 18" bar, 75-90cc saw with 22" & 28-32" bars

 

[Richie841]

Thanks for all the points.

Sounds like I will need to start off with the 2 saw plan (50 and 70 cc's) for right now. I'm to the point to where these chainsaws will hopefully be the last ones I'll ever have to buy.

The closest husqvarna dealer is a little further away than I would like so its gonna be between Stihl and Echo.

For the 50 cc saw i've done a little bit of research and it looks like its gonna be betwen the Stihl 261 vs Echo 501P.

I like the concept of the Stihl mtronic system but I've got other Echo equipment (string trimmer, hedge trimmer and the awesome 9010T backpack blower) that has always worked very well and more importantly stupid easy to start.

Hopefully someone can chime in on how easy it is to start/stop both as I’m usually working alone and like to stop to drag stuff and clean more often.

Still doing some research on the 70cc saw but keep the comments coming please!

 

[sean donato]

I agree with the 50/70cc plan, since it doesn't sound like you're going to have to deal with big trees regularly. Stihl ms 261 18" and ms462 24". Husky would be a 550xp 18" and 372xp or 572xp either w/24".
Don't worry about the mtronic/autotune they are very reliable at this point and are really just a regular carb with a fuel seliniod and a handful of wires. Had some version of it since 2012 and have several loggers, tree crews and landscapers running saws with the tech, with very little issues. Usually the saws die from something other then the electronics. My latest saw, stihl ms400, has quickly become my go to saw for smaller work, anything much over 28-30" I drag the 390xp 36" b/c out.
I usually reccomend echo to people concerned with money, they are good saws, reliable, but generally heavy and less power for their cc class. Basically 80's era tech/design. I'd have to go with a 501p and 7310.

 

[HansFranz]

Another 2-saw plan might be 60cc/20" bar (i.e., MS361) and 90cc/28" bar (i.e., MS660 or clone).

Except for climbing around in trees, about 90+% of my cutting is done with the 60cc 361. The 660 is for the big stuff.

Most of the time, I'd rather lug around more saw than I need, than struggle with less power than I want.

If and when you get into more falling, having enough power will be more important to you, too, I suspect.
Sometimes, you want to get in and get out without unnecessary dilly-dallying around -- or at least, I do.

 

[EastCoastGreg]

Dealer support is always important, Stihl has a better network than the others it seems. I have the luxury of having a dealer close that sells both Stihl and Husqvarna in the same place. I’ve run echo/shindaiwa products and agree they are super reliable but heavier on average so I don’t buy these saws new, but will absolutely pick one up used for the right price, ie; free, but that seems to happen less and less nowadays. I am managing my CAD better now and thinned out the stable a bit. The older shindaiwa were the easiest saws to consistently start in all weather conditions. Stihl’s 261 family is a great reliable line of saws. But, like Hans said a 60cc may be a good idea also, as you gain some power with a 362 very little weight variation and more bar length options. You can always run a smaller bar on a bigger saw to save weight. You throw a 16” bar on the 362 and it will not flinch or you can throw a 20” on it and be perfectly happy.

All of this really depends on how much you want to spend. With Stihl, a 50cc and 70cc is gonna get you into around $2000 commitment. The 60cc/90cc your at 2800 ish. I know lots of guys buy clone saws and i understand why. I wont simply because i want top notch quality without worry, plus I don’t like to support china manufacturing as much as possible. I am not knocking guys who buy the clones, so please don’t get mad at me. It’s just not for me. If these number are too high then Echo is the way to go.

 

[NSEric]

I have 42, 50 and 90cc saws
I do 90% of my cutting with the 50cc saw.
The 42 is used for little trees or as an atv saw where you only cut enough to get the trail cleared, it'll cut up big stuff no problem too it just takes a little longer.
I use the 50cc saw with a 16 inch bar for fire wood cutting, I have a 20 inch bar for it too, if I need it but it doent get used much. 20 inch trees arent 20 inches the whole way up and the 16 inch bar works fine on them.
I only use the 90cc clone for bucking up the log pile, it's too heavy to drag through the woods for the smallish stuff I cut.

 

[lone wolf]

After Hurricane Helena, I came to the realization that I need to up my skills and equipment living in on my current property. I've had home owner chainsaws before and am comfortable using chainsaws but now I need to graduate to some big boy equipment being more rural.

Would greatly appreciate some help selecting the best mix of saw sizes for cutting downed trees to get to the main road and general property clean up. I've got local dealers for the big three manufacturers but I'm getting too lost in all the choices of CC's and bar sizes.

Btw, my property and up to the main road is mostly hardwoods. The largest trees that got downed is a around 22 inches in diameter at the base and there are bigger trees around here. I do not plan on felling very large trees on my own right now. Just want to stick to limbing up and bucking right now, then progress as needed as my skills get better.

So, ignoring cost but focusing on quality, what saws sizes do I really need to round out the stable?

I like an MS 150, MS 200t, MS 241,MS 400 and MS 500,I carry all on board. We are a Tree Service, though, so we need the small top handle to start on removals from the top.

 

[bwalker]

Another 2-saw plan might be 60cc/20" bar (i.e., MS361) and 90cc/28" bar (i.e., MS660 or clone).

Except for climbing around in trees, about 90+% of my cutting is done with the 60cc 361. The 660 is for the big stuff.

Most of the time, I'd rather lug around more saw than I need, than struggle with less power than I want.

If and when you get into more falling, having enough power will be more important to you, too, I suspect.
Sometimes, you want to get in and get out without unnecessary dilly-dallying around -- or at least, I do.

For hard wood a 60cc saw and a 90cc connects alot of dots IMO.

 

[JD Guy]

I’m going to cut to the chase here with my personal opinion. Full disclosure I like Stihl but am not averse to Husky. A great 2 saw plan would be Stihl MS261 with 16-18” bar/chain and MS400 with 25” light bar. Now if you want to get something on the smaller end a top handle MS 194T would fillthe small requirement. Or a rear handle of similar cc.I am in a similar situation with 78 ac of mostly woods interspersed with pasture.

 

[bwalker]

I’m going to cut to the chase here with my personal opinion. Full disclosure I like Stihl but am not averse to Husky. A great 2 saw plan would be Stihl MS261 with 16-18” bar/chain and MS400 with 25” light bar. Now if you want to get something on the smaller end a top handle MS 194T would fillthe small requirement. Or a rear handle of similar cc.I am in a similar situation with 78 ac of mostly woods interspersed with pasture.

To me those two saws are too close together. You might as well just use the 400 and save them money you would have spent on the 261.

 

[JD Guy]

To me those two saws are too close together. You might as well just use the 400 and save them money you would have spent on the 261.

That is likely the case for most saw users. In my case, which I failed to mention is that I am 73 and with back issues so those choices fit my situation well.

 

[bwalker]

That is likely the case for most saw users. In my case, which I failed to mention is that I am 73 and with back issues so those choices fit my situation well.

If you have a bad back I get it.
In that case a 261 will suffice. Won't set any speed records but it will get the job done.