Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Lol! Nice description. Is there an electric saw big enough to cut like a 365 though? If I were starting out now, knowing what I do now, I'd give serious thought to a quality electric saw instead of my little ms180. It could be corded, I've a power socket on the outside of the garage wall right where I tend to do my cutting.... But I think it's still want the 365. Speaking of which I think I ought to have another go at tuning it, I know a few of you guys run them, how the **** of you tube the thing by ear!? Fairly sure it's bouncing off the limiter like crazy when piss revving, but fine in wood. Dont think it's right though, it would bog in the pine if I put a bit of weight on it which I didn't expect. Having a limited carb there's less than a turn on the screw stop to stop so I don't know how far of factory I have put it and I can't tell 4 striking apart from bouncing off the limiter. Any tips for a guy without a tachometer?
Lecky motors can have some scary torque but I'm not sure what cs options there are now. It used to be dolmar made some of the best ones. Maybe that's changed. Philbert might know.

Can't help on the tuning either sorry, as I have a hard time tuning my 7900 by ear, even when I fatten it and try sneaking up on the limiter.
 
That’s a lot of wood! Have you counted how many wheelbarrow loads per cord? I usually figure about 16-20 depending on the heap.
Ha! I had always used 9 per half cord (based loosely on short bed pickup load), so 18 loads per cord. Glad it lines up with your experience as well. That would be a bit over 7 cu ft per load and on my 6 cu ft wheelbarrow that seems plausible given that it doesn't stack neatly.
Probably has more miles on that than his vehicle during lockdown ;)
I stepped it out and it's around 500 feet from my OWB to the landing area I've been using - that would be over 16 miles rounds trips with the wheelbarrow. That is pretty close to what I've driven in the past month.
 
I went to Lowe's yesterday to get a piece of copper tubing. The clerk at the entrance had his cloth mask under his nose, and I saw 3 patrons with their masks under their noses. I had a fuel line that pinched and would not flow fuel. Clipped the line and made a right angle bend in the tubbing. That was easier than replacing the whole fuel line, which I had none of either.
 
That's basically how I do it, out of the wood though. I just turn the high out until there's no mistaking it to be too fat, then start leaning it out until it starts bumping the limiter, then I go another 1/8 to half turn in. 1/8-1/4 for his stock saw would be just fine, 1/4 in the summer and an 1/8 in the winter, or tune it at an 1/8 past the limiter and leave it there all yr, you'll know if it's too fat :yes:.
This is how I like mine to sound @LondonNeil

So you lean it out past Limiter? Or am I reading it wrong?:popcorn2:
 
It reads to me like leaning past the limiter too.

All the way in to lean stop, out until definitely rich and ' waaaaaa burbleburble waaburble wa burbleburble burbleburble...'. Then in again should up the 'waaaa's and reduce the 'burbles' but bouncing the limiter sounds similar so it never really gets to 'waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa' as other saws do

Jeff and chipper are both saying you'll hear the difference though... Ok get that, but surely on hearing the limiter you should go 1/8 to 1/4 rich again, not further lean? Or are you saying that extra limiter bounce is ok as it cleans up in the cut? Mine goes clean but seemed down on torque, hence I think it's not right.
 
This is my exercise program now. . . . I figure I'm approaching 90 wheelbarrow loads in my low impact firewood gathering.
You are getting great exercise , between the splitting and wheelbarrowing. A lot of us are too accustomed to powered equipment to make that change without a long transition period.


There atleast 15 years old so can't catch to much crap for wareing it.
Might want a bandana over that. Appearently the crazy go into a tailspin when they see N95 these days.

Just tell people that it is used, and from your woodworking activities.

I actually had a large stash of 'expired' N95 respirators that we donated to a drive conducted by the local nurses union, once they said that they would accept them. Many of these were left over from the SARS epidemic several years back, and when people started dumping them, I collected them for some of my volunteer disaster response groups and for personal woodworking.

I did not understand what 'expired' on them, but now understand that the elastic straps can lose their flexibility (just like old rubber bands or underwear): if the respirator does not fit /seal tightly to your face, the contaminated air will simply go around the filter.

Initially, they also were not accepting 'industrial' style N95s for medical use: the 'medical' N95s have to be accepted by the FDA, as well as NIOSH. The medical N95s are not supposed to have the exhale valve on them, because they want to protect the patient from being breathed on, as well as filter the air for the person wearing them. But they relaxed both of these requirements due to present circumstances.


Is there an electric saw big enough to cut like a 365 though?
I have posted a lot about the differences between the $30 electric chainsaws (typically 7 or 8 Amps), and better quality saws (typically 15 Amp, at 120 Volts, in the US). E.g. Makita UC4051A - I have the older model UC4000, which was used for Home Depot rental service. About $225 - $240 around here.

STIHL also sells some HD electric saws, but I have never personally used one, and have not priced them. The UK site shows fewer choices than the US site:
https://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Produ...pic-Pole-Pruners/0150/Electric-chainsaws.aspxhttps://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/electric-saws/
The MSE250 looks to be their largest electric in the US, running full sized 3/8 pitch chain. Although, I have seen photos of older, 3-phase and industrial electric chainsaws many years ago, here on A.S. Chain speed is typically slower, but balanced against high torque motors, and the other advantages of electric powered saws.

Philbert
 
Where does a person get a tractor rim?
Scrapper, heavy equipment repair/dealer, or your local dump?

Check at shops that service semi-trucks or tires. Or anywhere with a fleet of trucks. They likely have rusted, bend, or damaged wheels that are scrap to them, but fine for your use.

Philbert
 
Might want a bandana over that. Appearently the crazy go into a tailspin when they see N95 these days.

Fire warnings here. That seems early but been some small grass fires already.
Put a hand on me over a mask and you'll be answering to my Springfield. Yell if you want I could care less.
 
You are getting great exercise , between the splitting and wheelbarrowing. A lot of us are too accustomed to powered equipment to make that change without a long transition period.





Just tell people that it is used, and from your woodworking activities.

I actually had a large stash of 'expired' N95 respirators that we donated to a drive conducted by the local nurses union, once they said that they would accept them. Many of these were left over from the SARS epidemic several years back, and when people started dumping them, I collected them for some of my volunteer disaster response groups and for personal woodworking.

I did not understand what 'expired' on them, but now understand that the elastic straps can lose their flexibility (just like old rubber bands or underwear): if the respirator does not fit /seal tightly to your face, the contaminated air will simply go around the filter.

Initially, they also were not accepting 'industrial' style N95s for medical use: the 'medical' N95s have to be accepted by the FDA, as well as NIOSH. The medical N95s are not supposed to have the exhale valve on them, because they want to protect the patient from being breathed on, as well as filter the air for the person wearing them. But they relaxed both of these requirements due to present circumstances.



I have posted a lot about the differences between the $30 electric chainsaws (typically 7 or 8 Amps), and better quality saws (typically 15 Amp, at 120 Volts, in the US). E.g. Makita UC4051A - I have the older model UC4000, which was used for Home Depot rental service. About $225 - $240 around here.

STIHL also sells some HD electric saws, but I have never personally used one, and have not priced them. The UK site shows fewer choices than the US site:
https://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Produ...pic-Pole-Pruners/0150/Electric-chainsaws.aspxhttps://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/electric-saws/
The MSE250 looks to be their largest electric in the US, running full sized 3/8 pitch chain. Although, I have seen photos of older, 3-phase and industrial electric chainsaws many years ago, here on A.S. Chain speed is typically slower, but balanced against high torque motors, and the other advantages of electric powered saws.

Philbert
The band's on mine only last a few days. So they would probably be considered expired.
 
Speaking of electric chainsaws, I have an old electric saw made by Mall, the makers of the famous 2-man models. It needs a new cord and switch but I plugged it in and tried it. Wow, the sparks came out of it by the brushes and armature, I'm lucky I didn't get electrocuted. But the chain did go around. If there was ever a GTG in my area I would bring it so others could see it. I'll check it out to see what amps it draws if anyone is interested.
 
There is merit in this. That said, the bent over row is virtually bullet proof as exercises go. Minimal involvement of the more vulnerable rotator cuff muscles, particularly supraspinatus. Worst case scenario, Harry will get some DOMS from trying to move too much weight but is highly unlikely to tear anything. It does make sense to ease into things, however.

Not to worry about heavy weights, not gonna happen I might up to around 10lb dumb bells but that would be about it.

I did put in 3.5 hours on the locust scrounge off a 45 degree road bank. Wore my legs out just climbing up/down that thing rigging cables Pulled on tree and fell another, all brushed out. Main logs not bucked as couldn't start the 362. Tim tried 3 saws, flooded all three. I managed to finally get the 193T running and used it for felling and brushing.

I pushed it way to hard as I was staggering around just getting to the truck when I left. All recovered now though. I'll give it another shot about Friday and try to work a bit smarter on that slope.
 
Not to worry about heavy weights, not gonna happen I might up to around 10lb dumb bells but that would be about it.

I did put in 3.5 hours on the locust scrounge off a 45 degree road bank. Wore my legs out just climbing up/down that thing rigging cables Pulled on tree and fell another, all brushed out. Main logs not bucked as couldn't start the 362. Tim tried 3 saws, flooded all three. I managed to finally get the 193T running and used it for felling and brushing.

I pushed it way to hard as I was staggering around just getting to the truck when I left. All recovered now though. I'll give it another shot about Friday and try to work a bit smarter on that slope.
Ya gotta go where the wood is, but there’s nothin wrong with some mechanical advantage, and a working chainsaw.
 

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