Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[nomad_archer]

These things... they are really handy. Sorry that picture didnt come out very well. But I carry two small wedges in the leather pouch when I am bucking and I add two larger wedges into the mix when felling. I keep an fiskars x15 around for pounding duty. It works well. When you need them they are priceless.

 

[MustangMike]

Wedges are great in certain situations, I usually keep 2 in my back pocket when cutting. But there are times when a big heavy tree wants to twist or split, and the wedges just don't save you. Always good the have a second saw available. The bigger the wood, the more trouble it can cause. Energy just gets suppressed after it falls, and it can cause havoc.

 

[nomad_archer]

Wedges are just another tool in the bag. If I cant tell what the tree is going to do or at least have a reasonable idea of where the tree wants to go then I wont touch it. I am still getting my felling legs under me so I tend to keep the tree size to the smaller size. I am not messing with trees that are 3+ feet DBH. Well not yet. When I am not sure I call my friend that is an arborist and get a lesson on how to deal with the tree. He will have me run the saw but supervise so everyone goes home safe. I have learned a lot this way. Once on the ground a tree can still hurt you if it decides to shift or roll.

 

[Philbert]

Always good the have a second saw available.

This was sort of suggested in some of the posts above, but may not be clear to some guys if they have not faced this. If your saw gets stuck, and you don't have a helper with a second saw (0r one of your own) to 'cut you out', or wedges to free your saw, sometimes you can cut yourself out if you carry an extra bar and chain.

Remove the power head and leave the bar and chain stuck in the wood. Mount the extra bar and chain on the freed power head and use it like a second saw to free the stuck bar and chain.

This works easiest on saws with an outboard sprocket/inboard clutch (most STIHLs). With an inboard sprocket/outboard clutch saw (many Huysqvarnas), it is harder to remove the chain when stuck. You can try removing the clutch, or you can break the chain with a Granberg 'Break-N-Mend' type tool, pocket anvil and punch, hacksaw, etc.

Philbert

 

[nomad_archer]

I agree philbert. I have an extra bar and chain because sometimes you just get stuck. I have extra bar nuts as well since they are easy to lose especially when removing the bar while stuck in the field. For me an extra bar and chain is less expensive and takes up less room than a second saw. Not that I don't want a second saw but extra bar and chain works well for the scenario described for me since I have a stihl.

 

[Philbert]

Also good to have in case you bend or kink something on the field; jam up a nose sprocket, rock a chain, etc.

Philbert

 

[MustangMike]

I always used to carry and extra bar, and you can leave an extra chain right on it it you have it in a plastic sleeve. But an extra saw is just so much faster, and I'm usually cutting things up because I have to cut them up, I can't pick and choose. It is good to be prepared for various things you don't expect.

I also always have a few extra chains, for that day that will come when you just can't find clear wood.

 

[mallardman]

It's not much but started clearing some of the brush and saplings at my sportsmans club below the one trap and skeet range. Brought home some of the bigger saplings instead of letting them rot. All axe work. It's very steep and mostly broken clays so I feel safer with an axe than a chainsaw.

 

[BillNole]

This was sort of suggested in some of the posts above, but may not be clear to some guys if they have not faced this. If your saw gets stuck, and you don't have a helper with a second saw (0r one of your own) to 'cut you out', or wedges to free your saw, sometimes you can cut yourself out if you carry an extra bar and chain.

Remove the stuck bar and chain and leave it in the wood. Mount the extra bar and chain on the freed powerhead and use it like a second saw to free the stuck bar and chain.

This works easiest on saws with an outboard sprocket/inboard clutch (most STIHLs). With an inboard sprocket/outboard clutch saw (many Huysqvarnas), it is harder to remove the chain when stuck. You can try removing the clutch, or you can break the chain with a Granberg 'Break-N-Mend' type tool, pocket anvil and punch, hacksaw, etc.

Philbert

A lesson I learned early... I spent a couple hours whittling mine out on one of my first outings when I had only one saw/bar/chain and my buddy did too. Problem was, his saw was junk (I gave him my old one...) and it wouldn't start. I was determined that I wasn't going to leave the bar/chain and paid the price of a few blisters, lot's of sweat (and numb feat due to the cold...) and all the aggravation of knowing it happened because I didn't know what I was doing.

I now take an extra bar and a number of chains along with the plastic wedges previously suggested and a couple of steel wedges, as well as a 5-lb hammer, an 8-lb sledge, 8-lb maul, a mattock and a shovel. (Had to dig to get to the nuts on my bar more than once...) A couple of 20' tow straps stay in the truck along with most of the goodies for gettin' it unstuck. My son now knows the routine and helps load all the cuttin' and tow goodies in the Suburban along with the saw, fuel and bar oil. Sometimes I laugh at how much junk I take along just to cut up a couple of darn logs...

I've learned a lot over the years and generally avoid getting stuck before it happens now, based on previous experiences. But, oh what experiences they'be been! All part of the adventure!!!

 

[cantoo]

Philbert, if you are cutting with a husky and it gets stuck wouldn't you just call that good luck and leave it there. Then go ask your Mom or wife if you can please buy a Stihl?

 

[zogger]

A lesson I learned early... I spent a couple hours whittling mine out on one of my first outings when I had only one saw/bar/chain and my buddy did too. Problem was, his saw was junk (I gave him my old one...) and it wouldn't start. I was determined that I wasn't going to leave the bar/chain and paid the price of a few blisters, lot's of sweat (and numb feat due to the cold...) and all the aggravation of knowing it happened because I didn't know what I was doing.

I now take an extra bar and a number of chains along with the plastic wedges previously suggested and a couple of steel wedges, as well as a 5-lb hammer, an 8-lb sledge, 8-lb maul, a mattock and a shovel. (Had to dig to get to the nuts on my bar more than once...) A couple of 20' tow straps stay in the truck along with most of the goodies for gettin' it unstuck. My son now knows the routine and helps load all the cuttin' and tow goodies in the Suburban along with the saw, fuel and bar oil. Sometimes I laugh at how much junk I take along just to cut up a couple of darn logs...

I've learned a lot over the years and generally avoid getting stuck before it happens now, based on previous experiences. But, oh what experiences they'be been! All part of the adventure!!!

Some place up in the maine northwoods is an oak with a 30 inch bowsaw blade embedded in it.....

 

[Philbert]

Philbert, if you are cutting with a husky and it gets stuck wouldn't you just call that good luck and leave it there.

I generally don't cut alone. But I do have a Granberg tool in case someone has a outboard clutch saw that we can't cut out easily (or don't want to let fall/drop).

Philbert

 

[cantoo]

Huskys are like these. Use once and dispose of properly. Personally I keep a couple around to use as loaners,,, to people I don't like. The huskys I mean.
http://www.ripnroll.com/used-condoms.htm

 

[MountainHigh]

Huskys are like these. Use once and dispose of properly. Personally I keep a couple around to use as loaners,,, to people I don't like. The huskys I mean.
http://www.ripnroll.com/used-condoms.htm

lol .... been trolling long?

Please feel free to call me when you are disposing of those huskys

 

[MountainHigh]

I always used to carry and extra bar, and you can leave an extra chain right on it it you have it in a plastic sleeve. But an extra saw is just so much faster, and I'm usually cutting things up because I have to cut them up, I can't pick and choose. It is good to be prepared for various things you don't expect.
I also always have a few extra chains, for that day that will come when you just can't find clear wood.

ya if 2 saws are good, 3 have to be better

Many of you probably also use this technique - I frequently wide cut or double cut logs when bucking large logs or wood under tension - it has saved me quite a few stuck bars. When a log looks like it might pinch and I dont have large enough wedges, I make 1 cut and stop when it starts to get tight, then make another cut adjacent to the first, and after the log moves or compresses, shave out the middle wood. Not a perfect panacea if you blindly scream into the logs, but if you take things a little slower and get in the 2 cut habit, it can save your bacon.

 

[mallardman]

Have a member that's an arborist coming to take down 4 dead ash trees today. I get the wood. 3 of them if take down the biggest scares me. Not sure how rotten it is. He says it's no problem though.

 

[CTYank]

I always used to carry and extra bar, and you can leave an extra chain right on it it you have it in a plastic sleeve. But an extra saw is just so much faster, and I'm usually cutting things up because I have to cut them up, I can't pick and choose. It is good to be prepared for various things you don't expect.

I also always have a few extra chains, for that day that will come when you just can't find clear wood.

I'd suggest different size saws in the day's traveling kit, like 40 and 60 cc. Works great for me and some others. One size does not fit all. Sometimes, like if much of the crown of the tree is up in the air, a polesaw will earn its keep quickly.

In processing a deciduous tree for stove-wood, the work encompasses felling & bucking (for the bigger saw) and limbing (for the smaller saw(s)). Often, the majority of the work is limbing. IMHO, that is the province of a light, nimble and powerful saw, like a 40 cc RedMax or Dolmar, and a polesaw first a/r. A light, nimble saw is a real productivity booster and safety factor. Reduced fatigue-factor keeps you sharp.

I learned a lot back when, just by watching a master on the tree crew I worked summers with. When he needed to cut a log through, if all else failed he'd dig a clear path below for a full cut. Much more productive than using a saw as a ditch-witch. If nothing else works to cut a log into manageable sections, I also carry a cant-hook and a couple of cable winches with chains, slings, etc. Pas de probleme.

Did I mention that I love wedges, and carry five of two different lengths in a pouch?

 

[CTYank]

ya if 2 saws are good, 3 have to be better

Many of you probably also use this technique - I frequently wide cut or double cut logs when bucking large logs or wood under tension - it has saved me quite a few stuck bars. When a log looks like it might pinch and I dont have large enough wedges, I make 1 cut and stop when it starts to get tight, then make another cut adjacent to the first, and after the log moves or compresses, shave out the middle wood. Not a perfect panacea if you blindly scream into the logs, but if you take things a little slower and get in the 2 cut habit, it can save your bacon.

Absolutely. Sometimes my order-of-battle is 25-40-61 cc, Tanaka polesaw, RedMax and Dolmar saws. Used intelligently, with a liberal sprinkling of wedges, it's really hard to get one stuck.

When bucking, I always watch the kerf to see if it starts closing. Sometimes I misjudge which side of a log is under compression. Simple rule of thumb: cut 1/3 or more through on the compression side, or until it starts to close. Pull the bar straight back & out. Cut the side under tension per a plan: maybe straight in from outside, maybe a boring cut and quick release. Always have a "plan B".

 

[Philbert]

When he needed to cut a log through, if all else failed he'd dig a clear path below for a full cut.

If you are really crafty, you can fall the tree across several transverse logs to create a natural sawbuck.

I like to use the crown branches to hold the fallen tree up for limbing and bucking, instead of running in with the big saws first to section the trunk.

Philbert

 

[mallardman]

The ash trees are down and loaded. Unfortunately the biggest one was real pinky and was rolled into the woods over the hill.